Platinum has many more applications outside watches and jewellery, most of which are used in industry. So anyone who has ever benefited from, or experienced the benefits of, a catalytic converter has actually experienced how platinum makes a difference. How? Well, I’m glad to assume you asked this question because the catalyst in catalytic converters is platinum, typically, so if you have owned a car made after 1975, then you are indeed a person who owns just a little bit of platinum. While electric cars do not require catalytic converters, platinum is still the go-to material in diesel, gasoline and hybrid cars, as well as in the innumerable other types of engines (including electricity generators) as the world struggles to fight pollution from the burning of fossil fuels. 

An interesting point we will explore later is the case for rhodium, which is also in the platinum family of metals. This metal shares many of platinum’s characteristics, including its catalytic properties. Rhodium though is extraordinarily expensive, becoming in 2021 the world’s most expensive metal, at more than US$80 per gramme at the most conservative end. At its highest, rhodium was trading for US$744 per gramme. Platinum is thus still the more cost-effective option, and not by a little. 

This means platinum does have practical benefits that make it less volatile, price-wise, than its alternatives and, for watch and jewellery purposes, gold. Indeed, there are times when gold is actually more expensive than platinum. We actually live in such a time right now, with platinum trading at roughly US$30 per gramme and gold currently selling for double that. This has been the case for some time now, and it was perhaps only in the recession of 2008 that platinum traded above gold. You will no doubt be rushing off to Google this now and that is just fine — you can come right back because this is not the only unusual nugget here for scarcity and value warriors. In fact, just read this particular segment in front of your laptop or your phone because you will feel the need for information confirmation virtually constantly. Be careful not to fall too deep into any rabbit holes though because there is plenty of confusing and apparently contradictory information out there. 

• READ MORE: Platinum, Gold and Steel: The Appeal Of Precious Metal Timepieces

Stability Counts

Demand for platinum remains relatively stable, given its industrial applications, whereas gold’s practical application is as an economic hedge (typically against inflation) and a publicly recognised store of value. Most economies no longer use the gold standard, but virtually every government has gold reserves. This means tonnes of bullion simply sitting in vaults around the world, and no, we will not be getting into any conspiracy theories. By way of contrast, no country is known to have platinum reserves. Adding to this is the fact that the US considered platinum so vital as a strategic resource that it regulated its use during World War I (President Woodrow Wilson’s Platinum Policy), and once again during World War II. This took the metal out of play for most jewellers, effectively ending a brilliant run by all the fine jewellers of the era, from Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels to Bvlgari and Tiffany & co. It was a different story for watchmaking. 

Switzerland, like the US, made platinum a strategic asset, like gold and silver. One of the reasons for this was that watchmaking was hugely important for the economy (even more important than it is today), and watchmakers had been lobbying for legislation that protected against fraud. These same protections already existed for gold and silver, but platinum was not covered as it had not been used much in the trade since its official discovery and classification was only in the 18th century. Indeed, some evidence suggests that platinum was used to adulterate gold, so legal standards were needed to protect the purity and sanctity of gold. In any case, these sorts of legal protections were not done for the express benefit of any industry, and were instead undertaken to establish standards. These days, such standards define the use of precious metals in watchmaking and jewellery. For example, the exact percentages of gold in alloys is standardised worldwide, thanks to such measures. This is also why platinum 950 is the standard order for platinum in typical use, and this simply means 95 per cent platinum. It is not specific to watchmaking, although the precise wording, platinum 950 is Swiss. 

So in the early 20th century, platinum was finally making an appearance in horology, but still in pocket watches. The state of obtaining pure platinum and then alloying the same was hard going at first. Since platinum comes with other related metals, such as rhodium, iridium and palladium, to name a few, it first has to be purified. In fact, some of those other materials were also mistakenly labelled platinum, leading to all manner of problems. This was how the La Tolita pre-Columbian (circa 600 BCE to 200 CE) culture used platinum, in combination with gold. We think they worked with platinum in powdered form, sintered with gold in a similar form, then used simple tools to shape the resulting alloy. Unfortunately, this culture did not leave any written records, and the dismissive attitude of the Spanish towards platinum (they regarded it as an impurity that adulterated the gold they lusted over) did not help. Indeed, the name platinum comes from Spanish references to the metal as La Platina, or little or lesser silver.

• READ MORE: Platinum is the New Darling in Luxury Watchmaking

Hot Stuff

A major issue in working pure platinum was simply reaching the metal’s melting point, roughly 1,769 degrees C. By way of contrast, gold melts at approximately 1,065 degrees C and iron at 1,538 degrees C. This is an issue for purification too, but here chemical processes work, to an extent. Platinum (and platinum group metals) are largely unreactive, with platinum not succumbing to any acids at room temperature. European researchers were familiar with aqua regia though and this combination of nitric acid and hydrochloric acid can dissolve platinum, just as it dissolves gold. Iridium and osmium do not react with aqua regia and can thus be separated from platinum. Using aqua regia, 18th century metallurgists were able to create gold-platinum alloys that could be worked, but they had not realised that other metals such as palladium might get in too since it dissolves in aqua regia too. 

Achieving the necessary temperatures to turn platinum molten was only possible with the invention of the oxyhydrogen torch in the 19th century, which is when various industrialising European nations tried to find applications for platinum. The Russians and the British even fashioned coins out of platinum, though these never gained favour. Remember this the next time you play a computer game in a mediaeval setting that features platinum coinage or objects, or read a fantasy novel that features the same. 

As mentioned earlier, platinum is today mainly used for industrial purposes, with the automotive industry using up to 50 per cent of available material (projected as 41.45 per cent for 2022 on Statista, the source of all production and usage numbers used in this article). The estimated percentage for watches and jewellery stands at 21.27 per cent; investments do not even warrant a predicted percentage. Gold, by way of contrast, is estimated to be used by the watch and jewellery sector, and for investments, to the tune of 90 per cent. One effect of this is to make platinum relatively rare in watches and jewellery, because of competition with other players. Unusually, there is enough platinum to solve this problem, but mining firms are apparently reluctant to increase supply for fear of damaging prices, and not only for this material.

We will close this segment with a note about density, the defining characteristic of platinum. In pure forms, platinum is just 8 per cent denser than gold, and that number might surprise. This is primarily because we are often told that platinum is 60 per cent denser than gold, which is a reference to platinum 950 and 14k gold. When it comes to 18k gold, the number is approximately 30+ per cent. The practical effect of the resulting confusion from these numbers is primarily felt most viscerally in watches and jewellery, but the effect overall is that the general public has the idea that platinum is so heavy as to be impractical to wear. 

For more watch reads, click here.

The luxury watch industry is a booming niche in the fashion market. As more and more consumers become interested in getting high value wristwatches, the demand for luxurious timepieces has been increasing steadily. These luxurious watches are made with high value materials and premium features that can only be found on more expensive timepieces. Here are five models of Omega watches that appeal to most men who prefer a luxurious look and feel.

1. Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch

The Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch is one of the most expensive watches in the world. This model was designed for NASA astronauts and has several features ideal for space exploration. The case is made from stainless steel and has scratch-resistant sapphire crystal glass. It also has a tachymeter scale, ideal for measuring speed or distance over time.

2. Seamaster Diver 300M

The Seamaster Diver 300M is a popular model that can match your preferences. This watch is made from stainless steel and has a design that makes it ideal for underwater exploration. The watch also features a unidirectional rotating bezel and an anti-reflective sapphire crystal glass. Don’t forget to match your style with Omega wristwatches from Chrono24 for the best results.

3. Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M

Another popular model of the Omega is the Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M, which is one of the most expensive watches for men in the world. The watch comes with a case made from stainless steel and features an automatic movement with a power reserve of 60 hours. It also has anti-reflective sapphire crystal glass and a unidirectional rotating bezel. 

This model was designed to be used by divers and comes with several diving features, including depth indicators, water resistance up to 600 meters, and an alarm function that can be set to sound when the wearer reaches a certain depth level.

4. De Ville Prestige Co-Axial 39.5mm

This watch is a bit more vintage in design and comes with a stainless steel case measuring 39.5 millimetres across. The case features a transparent back case that makes it easy to see the inner workings of the watch. This model was designed for daily use and features an automatic movement with a power reserve of 48 hours. 

You will also enjoy other features that make it ideal for everyday wear, including a date display window, a chronograph function, and several other functions that are useful for keeping track of time.

5. Railmaster Chronometer

This is one of the most unique watches. It has a stainless steel case and a black dial that adds to its vintage look. The back case features an engraving of the Omega logo, and the crown is located at 4 o’clock for easy access.

It was designed for day-to-day usage and uses an automatic movement with a power reserve of 55 hours when fully wound. It also has several useful functions, including a date display window, a chronograph function, and several other useful features for keeping track of time.

How to Choose the Right Omega Watch with Your Style?

As you choose your preferred wristwatch from the site, here are a few considerations you should make. 

Style and Size of the Watch

These watches come in various styles and sizes, so you have to decide what type you prefer. Some models come with round cases, while others have rectangular cases. Also, some are designed with simple faces, while others are more complex. You should also consider the watch’s size as it relates to your wrist size. 

For example, if you have a small wrist, you should choose a smaller watch with a case diameter of less than 40 millimeters. However, if your wrist is larger, it may be best to choose a larger model with a case diameter of 39 millimeters or more.

The Movement Type Used by the Watch

These watches use either manual or automatic movements to power them. Manual movements require hand-winding, which means that you must wind them up manually using the crown after they run down from not being worn for several hours or days at a time. Automatic movements feature automatic winding systems powered by kinetic energy generated when your arm moves during regular daily activities such as walking around and doing other activities throughout your day. 

Automatic movements also feature power reserve indicators on their dials so you can see how much power they have before they run down completely and need to be rewound by hand. If you plan on wearing your watch daily, it would be best to choose an automatic model.

The Case Diameter of the Watch

The case diameter of your watch is a measurement of its size in millimeters around its face. If you want your watch to fit comfortably under your shirt sleeve, then you should choose one with a case diameter that is less than 40 millimeters. 

However, if you want your watch to be more noticeable on your wrist, then it may be best to choose one with a case diameter larger than 40 millimeters.

The Colour of the Dial and the Case Material Used for Your Watch

You can choose from several dial colours and case materials for your watch. For example, you could choose a white or black dial with a stainless steel case material or an ivory dial with a rose gold-plated stainless steel case material. Be sure to select the colour and materials you like the most when choosing a luxurious watch for yourself or someone else as a gift. It helps to pick one that you can match with various outfits.

The Watch Case

The watch case is the outer shell of your watch that protects the inner mechanisms. The most common type of watch case is a stainless steel case, but you can also choose a gold or silver alloy case. Different cases offer different benefits to keep in mind when selecting an Omega watch for yourself or someone else as a gift. 

A gold alloy case has a higher level of resistance to corrosion than stainless steel, which makes it more durable and less likely to rust over time. A watch with a gold alloy case also tends to be more resistant to scratches and scratches than a stainless steel version. If you don’t want your watch to get scratched easily, you should choose one with a gold alloy case instead of stainless steel.

A silver alloy case offers the same advantages as gold but does not tarnish as easily as gold does over time. This means that if you get a watch with a silver alloy casing, it will retain its original appearance for longer than if you had gotten a watch with a gold casing. 

A stainless steel casing, on the other hand, will not tarnish or corrode over time like other types of metal may do. However, it may scratch more easily than other types of metal casing do and may even discolour over time if exposed to chemicals in the air like paint thinner or chlorine bleach which can cause it to turn blue or green.

How Long Does an Omega Watch Last?

These watches are known for their longevity and reliability. They are built with the utmost care and precision and can easily be passed down from generation to generation. This is due to their excellent construction and ability to withstand the test of time. These watches are made to last a lifetime and will continue to work for many years after you purchase them.

Conclusion

Luxury watches have long been considered a status symbol, signifying a person’s financial success and social standing. Plenty of men aren’t willing to sacrifice their love for luxury in exchange for affordability, which makes the luxurious watch industry so lucrative.

For more watch reads, click here.

Precious metals, known as noble metals, have amazing origin stories. Indeed, everything
from helium to iron is forged in the hearts of stars. These elements are the products of
fusion reactions, essentially. Well precious metals go one better, and the platinum group
takes it to another level.

The alchemist’s dream of transforming matter is just a matter of existing; if stars exist, matter transformation is happening. Fusion turns hydrogen into helium as if it was the most natural thing in the universe. In fact, it is. One moment, hydrogen is going about its business as it has since the Big Bang, and then gravity invites it to a party and it meets a nice neutron (or two) and transforms into helium. Well, the poetic licence there is our own, and no one approved it. Please send your brickbats my way. Essentially though, that is how fusion works (minus a proper explanation of the strong force) but its transformative powers do not go past iron.

Hydrogen and helium are the most abundant materials in the observable universe, and are primordial. They are also amongst the least massive (i.e. lightest for shorthand) elements on the periodic table. Although helium can be produced through fusion, as mentioned, and radioactive decay (we will not go there), this kind of transformation has its limits. For heavier elements, something more violently powerful than the fusion heart of even the most massive star is required. Even if such a star were to explode and spew its innards across the universe, this matter would not include platinum. There is simply not enough energy in even the most impressive supernovae we know of that can accomplish this. It is in fact something so rare that we have only recently observed it, although everything we know about cosmology suggested the possibility.

Palladium

Used very sparingly in watchmaking, palladium is — like the other metals in these sidebars — a platinum group metal. In the periodic table, it is known by the symbol Pd, and its atomic number is 46. Palladium shares many of the same properties of platinum, including density and malleability. In fact, it is the least dense of the metals in its group and its melting point is the least extreme, although still high. It also shares the same catalytic properties that make it as appealing as platinum to industry, and it was the most cost-effective. In the recent past, palladium ore prices have outpaced platinum, in turn putting pressure on platinum ore prices. Besides the problematic issue of most supply coming from Russia, important mines there had already been hit by environmental issues.

As a result, palladium is estimated by some sources (Statista) to be 15 times as rare as platinum, which itself is just about as rare as gold. Since 2016, the price of palladium (per gramme) has increased fourfold; obviously, the effects of Covid-19 and the current conflict in Ukraine have not been factored in yet. On the other hand, there is no good reason to use palladium for watches, since it is very similar to platinum but does not have the cachet of that precious metal. At the same time, it might also be a good deal more dear than platinum, because of industrial demand and various supply constraints.

Among Swiss watchmakers, Cartier, Ulysse Nardin, Audemars Piguet and H. Moser & Cie have used palladium in recent years. Interestingly, the bulk metallic glass (BMG) of the Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin 15202XT for the most recent edition of OnlyWatch featured palladium in the mix.

• READ MORE: Platinum is the New Darling in Luxury Watchmaking

For this, we turn to pop culture, the excellent “Neutron Star Collision” by Muse. First, astrophysicists theorised that such things as neutron stars must exist — these are stellar objects composed entirely of neutrons. All the protons and electrons have fused into neutrons, in the wake of a particularly glorious supernova. If the object had just a little bit more mass to go on, it would collapse into a black hole. But it does not, and thus remains a mass of tightly packed neutrons. Cosmologists speculated that perhaps the extra mass (and therefore energy) needed to transform into a black hole could come from another such object, in the event of a collision. One result of such cosmic fireworks would be the production of heavy elements, like the platinum group of metals. Another possible explanation is the hypernova, which is basically a supernova on steroids, where a stellar object with sufficient mass sheds its outer layers as it collapses to form a black hole. In any case, the consensus appears to be that less dense precious metals such as gold can be produced in mere supernovas.

From these intense origins, platinum eventually settles into the crusts of planets like ours. Similar to gold and other dense metals, most of it probably sank right down to the core of the planet in question. Only a small part — approximately 5 μg/kg — is accessible in the crust, and approximately several hundred tonnes (Quill and Pad’s Joshua Munchow cites 150 tonnes, and precious metal traders generally put the figure at no more than 200 tonnes) are mined annually. Interestingly, as far as available sources go, platinum is about as rare as gold, but it is more difficult to extract. Fratello estimates that to get 30 grammes of pure platinum, 10 tonnes of raw platinum ore are required. That sounds incredible, and the website did not cite a source, but the short of it is that it is tough to get pure platinum to work with. The nature of the metal also makes it harder to recycle than gold, but this fact fits in better a little later in this piece. 

• READ MORE: Watch Buying Guide: All About Watch Crystals

Rarity alone cannot account for any metal’s use in watchmaking (or jewellery for that matter). The properties of the metal must be suitable too. For example, iridium is in the same family of metals as platinum, but it is extraordinarily brittle, making it a challenge to machine. Similarly, rhodium is even rarer than platinum or gold, and commands astronomical prices on the commodities market. It also has an extremely high melting point and is not malleable — indeed it is often alloyed with platinum to give this material better rigidity — but more on rhodium below.

This Is Hardcore

Platinum, on the other hand, is extraordinarily malleable but also much denser than gold. To be perfectly clear here, pure platinum is harder than pure gold; it is approximately twice as hard in fact. While you can leave marks in gold by biting it, as movies sometimes demonstrate, you cannot do the same with platinum. Having said this, alloys change things, and there is a big difference in how gold and platinum are alloyed in watchmaking. For the moment, it is sufficient to know that 18k gold is just about as hard as 950 platinum, but the introduction already summarises most of the relevant information as it relates to Swiss watchmaking.

Rhodium

A contender for the world’s most expensive metal, averaging US$21,000+ per ounce in May this year, rhodium finds itself all over the place in watchmaking, but never as a full case material. It goes by the symbol Rh on the periodic table of elements, and its atomic number is 45. Unlike platinum and palladium, it is a group 9 element. It has the distinction of rarely ever being used to make complete structures, instead being typically encountered as a coating or plating. Hence, most people familiar with white gold will recall hearing about rhodiumised white gold, or rhodium-plated white gold. Compared with gold and platinum, no significant reserves of rhodium exist, and only some 20 tonnes are mined every year — making it a full order of magnitude lower than platinum. Given that rhodium is in the same noble metals group as platinum and palladium, it is unsurprising to learn that it too is an important catalyst. Unlike the other metals, rhodium’s primary purpose in catalytic converters is to restrict nitric oxide emissions in exhaust fumes; rhodium is the only element that manages this neat trick so there are no viable alternatives for it.

We also learned, from Periodic Videos, that rhodium is used as a complete structure to filter out harmful x-rays in diagnostic tools used to detect cancer. All this goes a long way to explaining why rhodium is both special and rare — and why you will not encounter it as a full object in watches and jewellery. However, rhodium’s corrosion-resistant properties are also a useful protection against corrosion (think silver and brass) and this is how most of us will have made its acquaintance. Ebauches are regularly given rhodium plating (one micron thick or so) to ensure better durability, and EuropaStar reports that as the primary role of this most precious of metals. Rhodium is also the second brightest of all metals (after silver) so it does have important aesthetic properties too. This makes it useful on appliques on dials, for example, while it also makes dull old white gold a bit more exciting.

To close this section, here are the basics on platinum. Its atomic number is 78 and it is listed in the periodic table of elements as Pt (also how it is denoted on watch cases). It is part of the group 10 chemical elements in the periodic table, alongside nickel and palladium (and possibly one other uncharacterised element), while also being the core constituent of what we call the platinum group of metals, alongside palladium, rhodium, ruthenium, iridium and osmium. These other metals will mostly be familiar to watch buyers, enthusiasts and hobbyists, and we include sidebars here for the ones most widely used in watchmaking. 

For more watch reads, click here.

Grand Seiko has been completely separate, as a brand, from Seiko since 2017, but both are still part of the Seiko Watch Corporation (SWC), of course. SWC recently announced that Grand Seiko would have its own marketing, communications, distribution and sales subsidiary for the Asia-Pacific region, Grand Seiko Asia-Pacific Pte Ltd. As the name suggests, this company will be headquartered in Singapore, and it is a joint-venture between SWC and Thong Sia Watch (Far East) Co. Ltd; Thong Sia was previously responsible for all things Seiko and Grand Seiko related in Singapore and other Asian markets. Shinji Hattori, Chairman of SWC, and Joseph Wong, Chairman of Thong Sia Watch Group, will both be honorary chairmen of the new joint venture firm.

Those familiar with the story of Grand Seiko will have seen this coming, given that SWC has taken the same path in North America and Europe to great success. Additionally, SWC President Akio Naito was the man who got all that started when he was running the overall Seiko business in the USA.

• READ MORE: Grand Seiko Spring Drive: Root of Excellence

“When I first arrived in the US in 2016, one of the issues I faced was how to set up a team of experts who are experienced in the luxury watch business,” Naito, who is also Chairman of Grand Seiko Asia-Pacific, told us via a digital conference call. “I was fortunate enough to recruit the right people for this; and then I separated the Seiko team from the Grand Seiko team. In 2020, I did the same in Europe, and now is the time for us to do the same in Asia (outside of Japan and China). This is why we decided to create Grand Seiko Asia Pacific Pte Ltd… to recruit capable management to develop Grand Seiko in the region. We are looking at a totally different audience and distribution for Grand Seiko compared with Seiko. It is necessary to make use of separate expertise and management for the two brands to fully develop.”

On 3 October this year, the company will commence operations, and it is already staffed with the capable people that Naito requires. This includes Managing Director Yoshikatsu Kawada, and Regional Brand Director Ida Idris-Low; Kawada will remain Executive Vice-President, SWC. Idris-Low will be familiar to many in the region from her time at Patek Philippe and Van Cleef & Arpels.

• READ MORE: Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph: Two-tone Appeal

“The creation of this new company is another milestone in the history of Grand Seiko. I am delighted by the progress that Grand Seiko has made in the past few years in many markets throughout the world and I am certain that Grand Seiko Asia-Pacific will allow us to further increase the brand’s profile in this important region. I believe that we can look forward to a golden era for Grand Seiko,” said Naito in a prepared statement released to announce the launch of Grand Seiko Asia-Pacific.

For more watch reads, click here.

Everything counts in larger amounts, or so Depeche Mode put it in their 1983 hit. As applied to precious metals, larger amounts are measured in grammes and what counts is rarity and exclusivity. One should bear in mind that this is hardly an absolute. Instead, rarity and exclusivity applies relative to the best of our current knowledge and abilities; it helps to remember that aluminium was once more valuable than gold, as ridiculous as that might sound to contemporary ears. Similarly, helium is the second-most abundant element in the universe, yet it is quite uncommon on our planet; its nature ensures that it gets rarer on earth over time, and thus ever more valuable.

While we are actively advocating that collectors look seriously at precious metal options, we do acknowledge some weirdness here. To be upfront about it, platinum is cheaper than gold, and not by a little. It is also just about as rare as gold, and arguably more common, but far less is mined, and for more on that, you can always check out the history and material properties of platinum. Some observers have ventured that platinum is perfectly suited to watchmaking because it is so difficult to work with, and there is probably something to that. No less than Patek Philippe President Thierry Stern issues challenges to his watchmaking team, urging them to use platinum for chiming watches while knowing full well that the material is not the best suited to this task. Fortunately, whether a watch sounds out the time beautifully or not is a subjective matter.

• READ MORE: Patek Philippe Ref. 5470P: Extra Time

Any given material’s abilities to retain shape and resist deformation are not at all subjective, and surprisingly neither is lustre. The brightest metal we typically use is silver, as seen most recently in the Tudor 925, but steel can be very bright too, as anyone who has encountered a watch in 904L steel can attest. On the subjective side, gold has a very special quality about its glow that appeals to our aesthetic sensibility. Platinum is neither particularly bright nor does it hold the eye as gold does; however, it does have its own particularities that have drawn favour. One of these particularities is durability, for which platinum is tough to beat. Ask any jeweller what will retain its lustre over the years and the answer is inevitably platinum; you could try this over at Cartier and Harry Winston, both of which are famous for their platinum pieces. It is the material’s density that is responsible here, meaning it does not wear out — polishing platinum does not remove material, but more on that later. For now, that same density, especially in the alloyed forms used in jewellery, also makes platinum noticeably weighty and potentially uncomfortable to wear. 

• READ MORE: Platinum, Gold and Steel: The Appeal Of Precious Metal Timepieces

All this is shorthand to note that platinum is not a go-to material for its properties, at least not as far as watches and jewellery go. As Jack Forster notes in his excellent story for Hodinkee in 2020, even seasoned watch collectors may have precious little experience with platinum (no pun intended). It is more exotic than anything else, and we do not mean to suggest with our heavy focus here that platinum is a trending material, despite what you might see from the watch novelties this year. It might also be the case that platinum and other white precious metals might indeed be trending, but only in combination with steel. For this reason, for this material-focused section, we decided to go with precious metals, with platinum and bimetallic combinations anchoring the whole affair.

For more watch reads, click here.

Watch collecting is not only about buying watches, but also about community and finding spaces to enjoy your watches, and those of your friends. This is hardly a new phenomenon, driven by market realities, and Sincere Fine Watches has been providing just such a space for collectors and their friends since 2005 at Sincere Haute Horlogerie (SHH) concept store in the Hilton (now Voco). A new chapter began recently with the opening of a new SHH dedicated space and concept store at Marina Bay Sands. This represents a new beginning for SHH, because it is now branded as such.

Sincere Fine Watches CEO Ong Ban tells us that the re-branding was a practical matter as SHH is simply easier on the tongue, or “a mouthful,” as he put it. He explained further that the new logo for SHH, designed by Theseus Chan of Work Pte Ltd, is based on the look of a mechanical watch as seen through the caseback. The idea for this came from Sincere Watch Limited General Manager Kate Lim Hui Ying. We will be bringing you the interview with Ong Ban soon, but first, an introduction about what SHH is.

The name-change is probably for the best since the independent watchmakers exclusive to SHH themselves sport tongue-twisting names such as Czapek & Cie and Louis Moinet. These two brands are actually exclusively with SHH, along with a mix of brands, some of which have been with SHH for some time. These are Angelus, Armin Strom, Arnold and Son, Chopard L.U.C, Corum, Cvstos, Ferdinand Berthoud, Greubel Forsey, Grönefeld, H. Moser & Cie., HYT, Jacob & Co., Lang & Heyne, Laurent Ferrier, Montblanc, Moritz Grossmann, and Parmigiani Fleurier. The 19 brands share an impressive and quite democratic space that includes a VIP area with its own bar. Interior Designer Peter Tay designed the whole thing, with an eye towards making it feel a little like a museum, rather than a typical watch store. 

• READ MORE: Parmigiani’s New CEO: Why Restoration Is A Black Belt Skill

At the official launch of the SHH space, Sincere Fine Watches revealed three exclusive SHH timepieces from Lang & Heyne, Greubel Forsey and Laurent Ferrier. These are the Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin, limited to 10 pieces, the Lang & Heyne Georg, limited to 12 pieces, and the Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Convexe, limited to six pieces. The Double Balancier Convexe is dressed in never-before-seen purple hues, including the tips of the hour and minute hands, the running seconds subdial, and the entire baseplate, besides the rubber strap. With the Classic Origin, Laurent Ferrier is presenting a unique opaline green dial with numerals in deep forest green. Lang & Heyne is going with a unique ceramic dial atop a royal blue givree-finished silvered baseplate. This dial adds contemporary flavour to what is otherwise a very fine classical work of horological finesse. 

• READ MORE: Moritz Grossmann CEO Christine Hutter: Triple Threat in the Game of Watches

We conclude for now with Ong’s own words from the press release on the launch of the SHH: “As a premier watch specialist, we understand well the art of fine-watchmaking since it is something that is deeply entrenched in our DNA. Because of this, we are proud to unveil the concept of SHH to watch collectors, since it is the highest expression of watch retail as it should be and as what we have always aspired to. With this new boutique concept, we hope to deliver to the sophisticated watch collector, an even higher level of enjoyment for the craft, passion and creativity of independent watchmaking.

For more watch reads, click here.

In this trade, you know you have gone off the rails when you start talking as much as your subject. This is a real problem when one is doing an interview because one wants to hear what the other person has to say. Unfortunately, this is exactly what happened in my interview with A. Lange & Söhne Director of Product Development Anthony de Haas at Watches & Wonders. The editorial team has spoken with de Haas many times over the 18 years he has been at the Glashütte brand. On this occasion I got fired up and lost the plot a little, for which I offer an unreserved apology, both to you, dear reader, and to de Haas. If you are reading this Mr de Haas, I blame the cacophony behind the A. Lange & Söhne booth!

To make amends, I can confirm that we will be speaking with A. Lange & Söhne CEO Wilhelm Schmid in Singapore soon, for a story that will run in our new Legacy issue. We do not normally engage with the same brand in the same way over multiple issues, although A. Lange & Söhne has always been gracious and generous about interview opportunities.

In any event, the conversation was actually rather animated and, hopefully, enlightening. Of course, one can always count on A. Lange & Söhne to bring the horological heat at watch fairs and the conversation revolved around the three highlights of the fair: the Richard Lange Minute Repeater, the Odysseus in titanium, and the Grand Lange 1. This is not to say that this will be the only story on these three novelties — we have a separate piece in this very issue on the aforementioned Odysseus, for example. Like Watches & Wonders Geneva itself, this story is a mere introduction. But before we get into that, a brief introduction about de Haas.

• READ MORE: Interview with Director of Product Development of A. Lange & Söhne Anthony de Haas

Product development at A. Lange & Söhne is timepiece creation, essentially, so de Haas and his team dream up future watches here. “As Product Development Director, I do not only come up with products but also develop the parts that will feature in future timepieces. So everything will continue even if I’m not there,” said de Haas. This certainly applies to all three highlights in this story, because the story of the minute repeater begins with the A. Lange & Söhne Grand Complication in 2013, while the development narratives of the Odysseus and Grand Lange 1 go way beyond the first appearances of these models. In some ways, they go back to the very re-start of A. Lange & Söhne after the collapse of the Soviet bloc, with de Haas telling us that he envisioned a minute repeater from the start of his tenure at the brand. “I knew that we needed to one day have the knowledge to make a striking watch (even if Glashütte did not historically produce such watches), because that is what you need as a top (watchmaking) brand.”

Besides being a veteran at the Saxon brand, de Haas also worked with the late great Gunther Blümlein at IWC. He would work with him again at the revived A. Lange & Söhne but Blümlein also gave de Haas a hint about this future when he was on his way out to join Audemars Piguet Renaud & Papi. In many ways, vision being only one of them, de Haas carries on the work of Blümlein — who is something of a legend — at A. Lange & Söhne.

Richard Lange Minute Repeater

Now, we have already begun to speak about the Richard Lange Minute Repeater so we will pick it up from here. Believe it or not, this is the first classical minute repeater from A. Lange & Söhne, and that requires an explanation. Following up on his own comments about striking watches, de Haas confirms that A. Lange & Söhne could have gone with a classical minute repeater — this means a chiming mechanism that sounds out the hours, quarters and minutes on demand — all the way back in 2013, then moved on to the other sorts of striking watches from the manufacture.

“But then, I guess collectors would just say ‘I’ll take the minute repeater’,” said de Haas, miming a sort of ho-hum shrug. This is clearly not how A. Lange & Söhne wanted to do things, and we do have to say that it makes for a nice story. That is to say, the new Richard Lange Minute Repeater has an interesting origin story that feels organic.

On that note, the story on striking watches at A. Lange & Söhne starts in 2011 with the Zeitwerk Striking Time, which we remember very well. Purists might object but that watch must be counted in the continuing saga of striking time at the Glashütte manufacture. Another point here is that the minute repeater itself is not new here, with the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater having debuted in 2015. That watch, and subsequent iterations and developments, had us convinced that a completely traditional minute repeater was out of the question for A. Lange & Söhne. Boy were we wrong!

“Now we have three watches, three repeaters with completely different systems. Who else has that? Most of the time they have one minute repeater movement and they put it in all minute repeater watches,” said de Haas. We shall leave the specifications for a later story, but we do want to go over a few salient points, one of which is the three-part enamel dial. Not exactly unprecedented at A. Lange & Söhne, which you might recall from the 1815 Thin or more accurately the Richard Lange Pour Le Mérite, this new dial was made in-house, which would have been a considerable undertaking. For his part, de Haas thinks this dial perfectly represents the classicism and painstaking attention to detail in the Richard Lange Minute Repeater.

• READ MORE: A. Lange & Söhne’s Tino Bobe On Creating The Little Lange 1 Moonphase

These details represented the rabbit hole that this conversation went down, but we did come away with some interesting notes (no pun intended) on the watch as a result. For example, de Haas is critical of chiming watches that rush through sounding out the time. He was particularly keen to ensure that rhythm of the chiming was on point, neither too quick nor too “sleepy,” as he puts it. He also ensured that there are no awkward pauses, when the quarter is skipped (before the first quarter passes), while keeping it easy to tell the time just by listening to the chimes.

Typical chiming watches often offer a pause in place of the quarters when there are no quarters to sound, which is both a feature of the repeater mechanism and something to help people actually use the function as intended — to tell time in the dark. For a watch at this level, and given that A. Lange & Söhne’s theme this year is “devoted to the highest standards,” it is very appropriate that this sort of detail gets a bit of attention.

To close out on the minute repeater, the watchmakers at A. Lange & Söhne have also paid a lot of attention to the safety aspects, which are critical but frequently critically overlooked. With this watch, you cannot pull out the crown while the watch is chiming, nor activate the repeater while the crown is out. It seems a minor thing, but many brands do not bother with this level of caution. That is a shame because the greatest hazard a chiming watch faces is its owner!

Grand Lange 1

Moving now to the Grand Lange 1, this watch offers some impressively unexpected specifications, including the fact that it is the thinnest version of this model ever made, at 8.2mm. It certainly wears quite slim, although we did not have the previous Grand Lange 1 on hand to compare and find out if it feels slimmer. So, there must be a new movement in place no? Well, no. The specifications contradict our expectations because good old L095.1 remains in play — this movement has been used for the 41mm Grand Lange 1 since at least 2013.

“I prefer to have people say ‘Wow! What is this?’…the fun thing for us, or what we at least try to do is to create surprises. I think for most collectors and also journalists, and for us also, that the SIHH or Watches & Wonders today is kind of like Christmas. It’s all about pleasure,” said de Haas. It was certainly with pleasure that the movement debuted for the Grand Lange 1, especially since de Haas is plenty critical of watches that use calibres that are too small for the case, a point he revisits in this chat.

The current Grand Lange 1 achieves its reduced profile thanks to enhancements in the case structure, namely in the sapphire crystal over the dial. It now looks for all the world like the dial is open to the world, which is a neat effect. There are two versions of the Grand Lange 1, in white gold and rose gold, as seen here.

• READ MORE: A. Lange & Sohne Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar Debuts

Odysseus

Finally, the Odysseus in titanium, which is as far removed from the steel and gold versions as can be. The movement remains the same, of course, but the dial and the finishing of the case and bracelet are quite different. This feels quite fitting for a watch that has divided connoisseurs and given the A. Lange & Söhne team some shocks, which de Haas recalls with a fair amount of dismay. “Look what happened to the Odysseus in steel, which I hear there is a three-year waiting list! I know people say that we are playing with that… restricting access…and that’s true because we had a bad experience (at the start),” said de Haas.

Here de Haas is referring of course to the Phillips auction that saw a brand new Odysseus in steel sell for something like three times its retail price. “That’s sick! For a watch that is still in production, how is that healthy? You know, I have nothing against people selling their watches, like maybe a collector sells his Tourbillon Pour Le Merite (out of production now for at least a decade) at an auction and getting (top dollar). I feel honoured when (a result like that) happens.”

The new titanium version of the Odysseus solves one problem for A. Lange & Söhne in that it is neither a steel model nor one in a precious metal. It is also a proper limited edition with only 300 to be made, which is unusual for the brand. Typically, A. Lange & Söhne core collection pieces are limited by production, not by a set figure. This may lean into the crazy collectibility of the Odysseus and represent a response to the aforementioned initial experience with the watch in steel, as well as the extended wait time for that watch.

• READ MORE: New Lange & Söhne sports watch Odysseus collection includes integrated rubber strap

For now, we close out this story with a note about why people buy watches in the first place, which as de Haas notes, is primarily about fun and pleasure.

“Our watches are for collectors; for people who know A. Lange & Söhne and want to wear an A. Lange & Söhne, and are comfortable wearing it. I think nobody’s going to buy a Lange, in general, to show off. We are a collector’s brand,” said de Haas. He is referring to the fact that most people do not know what A. Lange & Söhne is, much less how to spell it or say it. If you expect your peers to be impressed by the Zeitwerk you are rocking, they have to first know what A. Lange & Söhne is, and be able to recognise any given watch from the brand. “If people want to show that they are rich and successful, they do not do it with an A. Lange & Söhne watch,” said de Haas. Fitting words to end on.

For more watch reads, click here.

Panerai’s showing at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022 carries on from where the watchmaker left off the year before as they reaffirm their commitments to sustainable watchmaking. After revealing the Panerai Submersible eLAB-ID concept watch and the introduction of its recycled steel alloy known as eSteel last year, Panerai is firing on all cylinders as it launches the Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel and made a proud declaration to move its production from regular steel to eSteel by 2025. WOW’s Contributing Editor, Asaph Low caught up with Alessandro Ficarelli, Chief Marketing Officer of Panerai, who shares his views about eSteel, the importance of communication with clients and the motivation behind Panerai’s new partnership with Watchfinder & Co.

• READ MORE: Jerome Cavadini, Panerai COO: Sustainability, Market Demand and Unexpected Watches

First off, congratulations on the amazing novelties. Which collection do you personally like the most?

It’s like asking who is my favourite child you know but jokes aside, I’m wearing the Submersible Luna Rossa which I love as we speak. The Submersible is one of my favourites, the Carbotech (PAM01232) if not the Bianco version (PAM01226). Its (PAM01226) combination with the green strap reminds me of summer!

Sustainable watchmaking is Panerai’s direction moving forward. How will Panerai communicate this effectively and accurately to clients?

We are upgrading our website to have the sustainability pages on the landing page. Roughly two years ago we removed the instruction leaflets, this year we are presenting a new packaging box made from recycled materials. Products are just the tip of the iceberg of what you see, it’s also communicating processes, people, the building as well as ambassadors such as Mike Horn. Our sustainable or Ecologico framework as we call it internally extends from the organisation to our subsidiaries. 

What are some challenges Panerai faced when working with Steel?

We started first with the EcoTitanium with Mike Horn a few years ago and we realised we’re able to manufacture and machine some recycled titanium. The challenges of eSteel are having to rework, purify and add the same quality standards as regular steel. The purer steel gets, the harder it is to machine with our tools as the machining heads get damaged easily. The number of rejects rate is quite high but we are improving along the way. We are declaring by 2025, we will move all the production of standard steel to eSteel which is made from 95 per cent recycled steel.

When Panerai is planning for new products, how do you guys strike a balance between listening to the customer’s needs and wants versus pushing the brand’s vision?

This is a very good question. When we present sustainable products, the new generation is asking why we didn’t do it before? We listen to our customers. The Submersible QuarantaQuattro is the result of the client-centric philosophy of Panerai. We are getting more feedback, data, and information than ever before about what our customers want or are looking for through our boutiques and digital presence. Also, we need to respect the DNA and aesthetic codes of Panerai, so we create evolutions and even reduce the average size. We have the 38mm Luminor Due now and are communicating directly with ladies which in the past didn’t exist. Even if Panerai’s history is about masculine watches or instruments made for the Italian Navy, in the end, we have the brand stretch to reach out to clients who are attracted by the Italian side of the brand, the Italian lifestyle and the mix of Italian and Swiss watchmaking luxury.  

• READ MORE: The Most Sustainable Panerai (and Watch) Ever

The Paneristi is one of the most renowned watch communities, how does Panerai continue to engage this group and more importantly reach out to new customer bases?

Just this morning I had a meeting with the gentleman who created Paneristi 21 years ago and an Italian Paneristi reached out to me during my commute. Now we are more client-centric and it’s reflected in our availability via email, Whatsapp or other social media platforms. Our CEO Jean-Marc Pontroue brought about this new philosophy too and answers everyone because we have nothing to hide and with this transparency, we can talk openly. We accept the feedback from clients, we listen, listening is key and we do our best to build the brand and develop our objectives.

What is the motivation behind the new initiative with Watchfinder & Co.?

Everyone realised in recent years the secondhand market is growing, especially the guys behind Watchfinder & Co. It’s about participating in the secondhand market to know your customers, the data and insights we get from it are invaluable. If a customer sells a Panerai, what do they buy? Is it a new Panerai or another brand? Also, it meets our objectives of sustainability as we give a second life to the watches. A customer can sell his Panerai for new watches which we offer to Watchfinder’s London, Geneva and Paris boutiques. Sustainability is not only about recycling material but activating the secondary economy and trading is one of those activities.  

• READ MORE: Panerai’s Foray into Web3 Marks A New Era for Watch Brands

Panerai is working on many exciting collaborations, the most recent being with Brabus. What are certain considerations Panerai takes when it comes to picking the right organisations to work with?

In the instance of Brabus, we both shared an objective to reduce the environmental impact and came together with ideas and solutions. The Submersible Brabus Edition is based on the Brabus Shadow 900. Our main partner is with Luna Rossa for the America’s Cup, about sailing and performance, so we thought we could have something similar with Brabus and their speedboats. Along the way, we realised we have many shared clients who like Brabus and Panerai, and they want something unique.

For more reads on Leaders, click here.

The art of architecture is built into the DNA of Mido timepieces. They look to monuments that stand the test of time, and adapt their indelible forms for the wrist. The circular geometry of the Colosseum. The graceful petals of the ArtScience Museum. The steel suspensions of the Sydney Harbour Bridge. The lattermost, with its proud arch constructed of 40,000 tonnes of metal and six million rivets, captivated the world with its ambition and inspired the design of a contemporary from the 1930s, the Multifort wristwatch.

Characterised by vertical Geneva striping on the dial that brings to mind the sturdy suspension cables of “The Coathanger”, the Multifort was Mido’s first automatic, antimagnetic, shock-resistant and water-resistant timepiece. These fundamental attributes allowed the line to enjoy exceptional popularity and longevity for more than 85 years. Today, the Multifort Skeleton Vertigo elevates its style with an open construction on the front that exposes the high performance mechanism behind the timepiece.

• READ MORE: Mido Ocean Star 600 DLC: Higher Level

Skeletonisation turns the ordinary into extraordinary, while blending classical and contemporary aesthetics. On the Multifort Skeleton Vertigo, the central section of the signature Geneva stripes is stripped away to provide a dizzying view of gears, springs, bridge plates and other inner intricacies. Yet, the dial remains wholly legible, coated in an intense shade of anthracite and punctuated by large faceted indexes that slope towards a central minutes track in relief. The hour and minute hands are likewise faceted and float alongside a flat diamond-cut second hand.

Of course, a watch that dares to bare must have something worth seeing. The Multifort Skeleton Vertigo is powered by Mido’s flagship Calibre 80, which offers a generous power reserve of up to 80 hours and COSC chronometer certification. Additionally, it is equipped with a Nivachron balance spring, which reduces the effects of magnetic fields on timekeeping and provides excellent shock and wear resistance. The automatic movement is decorated with familiar Geneva striping on its skeletonised movement plate and oscillating weight. 

• READ MORE: Mido Ocean Star 600 Chronometer Makes The Perfect Maritime Guide

The version featured here is the steel one with matching bracelet, but there are other variants, including one with rose-gold plated elements. There is also a version that is more emblematic of the brand’s daring, in black PVD with black fabric strap and Mido orange accents.

For more watch reads, click here. 

Luxury watch brands are beating new paths to continue to appeal and cater to the market’s changing tastes while anticipating these shifts. One of these paths sees watchmakers pair up with haute couture designers and old-school artisanal craftsmen, as well as their own retail partners. More or less, we are seeing storied watchmaking brands collaborating with different players from all walks of life to create magnificent timepieces. Today, luxury watches are considered artistic time-telling devices equipped with the finest elements one can hope for, but where the focus on details, including finishing techniques, and technical intricacies are equally important.

Through the art of collaboration, luxury watch brands are bringing something special to their collections, especially in terms of vivacity. To put it another way, the mechanical artwork of watchmaking is being given an intriguing design makeover. This is how the world of watches functions, where a few collaborations are a nod to commemorate long-lasting relationships.

Big names in luxury such as Chanel, Gucci, Hermès and Bvlgari have all invested in developing and manufacturing excellent mechanical watches. According to Eric Wind, the seasoned and much-cited watch expert and owner of Wind Vintage, “There is a long history of ‘fashion brand watches’ but in recent years these fashion maisons have tried to shed that label to make more serious mechanical watches. These are brands that have massive and loyal followings, so their watches can often serve as an important “gateway drug” to serious mechanical watches from the traditional watch manufacturers.”

On the other hand, it is also a positive development that their investments in watches have been welcomed by the watch industry. In this very issue, we look at celebrated offerings from Chanel and Hermès from Watches & Wonders 2022, where they more than held their own against traditional fine watchmaking brands. As for Bvlgari, anyone who doubts the brand’s watchmaking chops need only look to the 10-year saga of the Octo, and the resulting thinnest of all watches this year. We dare say these brands have enriched watchmaking, and created entirely new markets for everyone.

• READ MORE: Bvlgari Puts Its Name Atop In Ultra-Thin Watchmaking

Will All Luxury Watch Brands Follow Suit? 

Now the next big question is whether all luxury watch brands will follow what is now clearly more than a trend. “Not all luxury watch brands will follow suit — I don’t think we will see Rolex or Patek Philippe teaming up with Supreme anytime soon,” said Wind. ”Although many other watch brands would be thrilled to be able to offer a watch with Supreme on the dial. But even Patek Philippe has a long history of selling watches at Tiffany & Co. in NYC and the limited Nautilus reference 5711/1A with a Tiffany blue dial (above) could be described as a great collaboration in a sense — with the watch retailing for about US$52,000 and with a secondhand market value of $4 million.” 

Since there is a huge market out there for collaborations like this to take place in one form or another, the future certainly looks promising. As Alison Bringe, the CMO of Launchmetrics, pointed out, “Given the recent success of the collaborations, we can expect to see a continuation of partnerships between luxury watch companies and fashion brands, especially as brands work towards building unique and innovative experiences for their consumers. Brands aiming to get into partnerships must have a clear understanding of the purpose for the collaboration in order to build an effective partnership. These can be from increasing audience engagement, garnering more visibility, penetrating into a new market to overall enhance their brand performance.”

Patek Philippe X Tiffany & Co. 

Perhaps the most famous double-signed watch of the 21st century (so far) is the one that marked the 170-year-old alliance of Patek Philippe with its retail partner Tiffany & Co. You know the watch, of course, and not because you can see it right here. For the sake of doing our jobs properly, we are referring to the Tiffany Blue Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A-018. While the hype and the specific aesthetic appeal of the watch can be debated, it cannot be denied that by simply harnessing the mesmerizing effect of pastel colours, Patek Philippe penned the opening lines of a new chapter in watchmaking. Yes, pastel dials can also be symbols of power and prestige. And it was really visible with Leonardo DiCaprio spotted wearing it at a courtside basketball game this year, while Ed Sheeran had to wait for his — he might still be waiting.

For those for whom power must be absolute, Bernard Arnault’s Tiffany Blue Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Ref. 5740 must be incontrovertible evidence. This watch also serves as a reminder that Patek Philippe has been collaborating with TIffany & Co with double-signed watches for some time; in fact, the Geneva watchmaker has a number of vintage offerings that it made exclusively for a variety of retail partners, some of whom are no longer in business. 

• READ MORE: Patek Philippe Goes Tiffany Blue

Hublot X Berluti 

Hublot has always been known for its exceptionally eccentric designs, and a plethora of distinctive collaborations. It likes to surprise watch enthusiasts in a myriad of ways that are difficult to fathom. Last year, Hublot celebrated five years of partnership with the French leather maker and fellow LVMH brand Berluti with a new 100-piece limited edition of the Big Bang Unico. The 44mm Big Bang Unico Berluti Aluminio is a timeless watch that celebrates the wonders of leather.

On the whole, the splendour of Venezia leather has been exquisitely brought to life by its use on the dial, bezel and strap of the Big Bang Unico Berluti Aluminio (the watch itself is in titanium; aluminio is a shade of proprietary leather used by Berluti). While the dial is indeed in this same leather, with some neat watchmaking handiwork making a portion of the Unico calibre visible, the real signature here is the leather insert used on the bezel. This is both unexpected and seductive, with the exposed leather expected to acquire the same patina as the leather of the strap over time. The watch comes in a special case with a travel pouch, and a shoehorn key ring with the Berluti logo. 

Audemars Piguet X Ralph & Russo 

Le Brassus watchmaker Audemars Piguet is committed to fostering dialogues across creative fields so its collaboration with British couture fashion brand Ralph & Russo is fitting. The idea was to put a new spin on existing watches via curation, with the ladies’ Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon taking centre stage alongside four 34mm time-only Royal Oak models. With the Royal Oak Concept available in pink or white gold, its case has been given a shimmering frosted gold finish with a contemporary dial composed of multiple layers. Powered by the hand-wound calibre 2964, the flying tourbillon highlights the perfect symmetry between tradition and modernity. The blue alligator leather strap of these two spectacular models gives them an elegant contrast. While you might think of this as Audemars Piguet watches making a guest appearance in a Ralph & Russo show, because there are no real watches, the meaning is implied. 

Asked how beneficial such collaborations are, Wind explained: “These collaborations have been very dynamic and brought new energy to watch brands – and seemed to have helped sales and raise brand awareness among fans of these clothing brands. I think these collaborations and partnerships are about more than just increasing sales of highly-sought after models by producing them in limited-editions, but are about making cool and desirable watches at the end of the day.” 

• READ MORE: Watch Buying Guide: All About Dials

Tudor X Marine Nationale 

Tudor watches are loved by adventure seekers since they are designed to be beautiful tools that can take a beating. For this very reason, the Marine Nationale of the French Navy has been a big admirer since the 1950s when the Swiss luxury watchmaker became its official supplier of dive watches. Rather than simply making reissues to mark that historical partnership, Tudor and the Marine Nationale found a new mission last year. To mark the occasion, Tudor developed a new 42mm version of the Pelagos called the Pelagos FXD in close collaboration with the Commando Hubert, which is the combat swimming unit of the French Navy. As we have written before, this is not a dive watch, but rather a navigational tool for use underwater. That is exactly what Commando Hubert needed, and Tudor responded. If one is looking for authenticity and true understanding in partnerships, as Bringe remarks, this one has depth to it.

Tutima X Esquivel Compass 

Some partnerships evolve from shared personal tastes, rather than a quest to open new markets, and that is the case for watchmaker Tutima and leather goods purveyor George Esquivel. Based in Los Angeles, George Esquivel himself is a noted collector of fine timepieces, one of which is a Tutima he acquired in 2009. Thus, when the Glashutte-based Tutima wanted to collaborate with an artisan outside watchmaking, George Esquivel was the natural choice. Esquivel is a full partner in creating a made-to-order travel kit that includes the Patria Dual Time model, two leather straps, a leather watch holder, an overnight leather duffle bag, and Chelsea boots. All the vachetta leather elements are lovingly handmade at George Esquivel’s Los Angeles atelier, while the Tutima Patria Dual Time represents the best of Glashütte watchmaking, which the readers will know well. Esquivel himself decided on steel for the case, to ensure his clients feel comfortable wearing the watch on all their adventures 

For more watch reads, click here.