Despite how large the sun appears in our sky, the moon is the closest celestial body to Earth. And for thousands of years, it has remained a great source of intrigue for all civilisation. One year before man was able to set foot on the moon, however, in 1968, Apollo 8 became the first ever human flight to orbit Earth’s only natural satellite. More than 50 years ago these pioneering astronauts were the first human beings to experience the dark side of the moon and it has been well documented that all of them wore Speedmasters.
To celebrate this milestone for humanity, in 2018 Omega launched the first Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8 and this year they have updated the watch with even more mooninspired details. The most noticeable of which is the relief of the moon’s surface that you will find on the dial side of this watch. Fantastically, on the back of the movement, Omega has also created a laser-ablated moon relief on the blackened mainplate and bridges. While the dial side represents the view of the moon as seen from Earth, on the back, through the transparent caseback, one will see the other side of the moon.
Interestingly we only ever see one side of the moon even though the moon itself rotates on its own axis. This is due to a phenomenon called tidal locking where the gravitational pull of the Earth adjusts the moon’s spin so that it is in perfect sync with the rotation of Earth. Therefore, it was only when Apollo 8 orbited the moon, that we managed to catch a glimpse of the “far side of the moon” as it is often called.
The other cool feature, and I think most posted on social media, is the fact that instead of a traditional small seconds hand, Omega has managed to swap it out for a tiny little rocket modelled after NASA’s Saturn V. As the seconds tick away, this little rocket spins around on the subdial almost as if it is weightlessly floating in space. This tiny little miniature also has a patent-pending status because it has been engineered from grade 5 titanium, sculpted via a laser turning process and the colours were achieved through white varnish, ablation and laser blackening. Talk about high tech.
As for the case, it is made from black ceramic along with an anodised aluminium dial which is fitting with this whole aerospace theme. Its lightness, at only 99 grams, is also welcomed because even though the movement is a manualwinding Calibre 3869, it still sits quite hefty on the wrist at 13mm high and 44.25mm in diameter.
How often do you think about a leap year? The seemingly innocuous phenomenon that happens once every four years, adding a single day to February. For most of the world’s population it is probably just “oh, there is a February 29th this year” as they see the date on the screen of a smartphone, smartwatch or Google calendar. But, for us watch enthusiasts, on the other hand, February 29th is the day when we finally get to see the perpetual calendar complication go to work. The day when your mechanically driven timepiece can intuitively understand that in 2024, February doesn’t end on the 28th and therefore can automatically compensate for the extra day, and subsequently the arrival of March.
Put to a non-watch person, it may seem that all the research and development and investment from the brand side, along with the hefty asking price of a perpetual calendar, to see it in action once every 1,460 days is probably not justified. However, this is the reason you buy a perpetual calendar. Not an annual calendar or a complete calendar, which is comparatively much cheaper. You buy a perpetual calendar so you can set it once, and if continuously powered, will keep the date until 2100 whereby many of us reading this would no longer be alive.
In honour of the year that will see the Perpetual Calendar complication put to good use, for our Spring 2024 issue, we take a closer look at this complication from Blancpain. More specifically the Villeret Quantième Perpétuel Ref. 6656, a model that represents the confluence between the trifecta of complexity, functionality and design. This model from the manufacture is not new per se but for 2024 it has, for the first time, been given a deep green dial inspired by the fir forests of the Vallée de Joux and paired with an elegant red gold case, giving us the perfect opportunity to revisit the perpetual calendar complication, a complicated that many collectors would probably have on their grail list.
THE DIFFERENCE A DAY MAKES
To understand what makes a perpetual calendar so special, one must first go back to the basics of the date function. At its most basic level, the date mechanism simply follows the advance of the hour hand. For every 24 hours that pass, the date wheel is advanced one day forward. If all months had 31 days this complication wouldn’t have a problem because mechanics thrive on repetition (I recommend playing the video game Opus Magnum to better understand what I mean). However, as we know, some months have 30 days while others have 31. If this was the only variable in a calendar, then, still a perpetual calendar wouldn’t be too difficult to make as the mechanism only has to compensate for two variable factors. Adding on yet another layer of complexity is the fact that February has 28 days which makes this month out of the 12 yet another anomaly which has to be mechanically adjusted.
For each layer of ‘rule’ added to a calendar the mechanics inside have to increase exponentially in terms of complexity to comply. For example, the traditional date complication is simple to manufacture because it follows one rule, and the human (wearer) will manually compensate for the discrepancies between the different days of the month. This means that the date wheel will just automatically advance to 31 every month and five times a year this must be manually corrected.
The next layer of complexity is a movement that can discern between the months that have 30 and 31 days and automatically advance the date as such. This is the function of an annual calendar complication. To achieve this, engineers devised a special cam that takes into consideration the pattern of days in the month within a 1-year cycle. But, as the name alludes, the Annual calendar still requires one manual adjustment to the date every year which is in February, regardless of whether it is a leap year. Interestingly enough, even though the perpetual calendar was invented by Thomas Mudge around the 1760s it was only in 1996 that the simpler annual calendar was invented.
For a perpetual calendar to work, the mechanism within the movement has to be capable of not just ‘understanding’ the patterns of 30 and 31 days within a year, it also has to ‘remember’ that February has only 28 days. And the most important of which, is it has to keep track that every four years, during a leap year, there is an extra day on February 29th. Explaining the mechanism to achieve this would probably take more pages than we have for this article so for the sake of brevity, the ‘memory’ of a perpetual calendar can be boiled down to a cleverly designed cam that records the length of months in a four-year cycle. For this Ref. 6656 specifically, the cam is based on an 8-year cycle recording two consecutive leap years, which can clearly be observed on the subdial at 12 o’clock. On paper, it may seem simple enough to add one day to February every four years, but in reality, the Perpetual calendar is even more complicated than the fan-favourite tourbillon and is probably closer in number of parts to a minute repeater.
Within this new version of the Villeret Quantième Perpétuel Ref. 6656, beats the calibre 5954 automatic movement with its integrated perpetual calendar complication. It is capable of offering a power reserve of 72 hours when fully wound and offers the same anti-magnetic properties thanks to its silicon hairspring.
Even though the word perpetual suggests that the watch need not ever be adjusted, Blancpain’s perpetual calendar, and for that matter almost all perpetual calendar complications are not perfect because they still must be manually adjusted in 2100. If you take the rule that a leap year happens every year divisible by four, then technically 2100 should be a leap year. But it’s not. This is because the exact time that Earth makes a full rotation around the sun is not exactly 365.25 days but rather 365.2422 days. By this logic, if we continue to apply the leap year rule, after a couple of hundred cycles, our seasons will start to get out of sync. Therefore, when the Gregorian calendar (the one we use today) was invented it stated that century years would have to be divisible by 400 for it to be a leap year. Thus 2100, 2200 and so on, will not be leap years to compensate.
BETTER SAFE THAN SORRY
On the subject of manual corrections, the perpetual calendar complication can be notorious when it comes to its adjustments. In perpetual calendars of the past, it has been said that manipulating and adjusting the watch at certain times could easily damage the watch earning it a round trip home to Switzerland and along with it, a large bill for the repairs. And this forbidden period was between the few hours before midnight and the few hours that followed. During this time, the calendar indications are changing, and any manual correction applied could easily damage the delicate gears.
With the Villeret Quantième Perpétuel Ref. 6656 from Blancpain, this is no longer an issue as the watch designers at the manufacture have managed to eliminate this risk entirely. When the user tries to make the adjustment while changes are happening, a clutch disengages the system to prevent any damages from occurring. But the ability to do this doesn’t come without its cost, and according to Blancpain, they needed 40 per cent more components compared to a traditional complication to achieve this. Of course, all of this is hidden beneath the dial so all the wearer sees, is a clean and elegant design on its top side.
Another testament to the usability of Blancpain’s perpetual calendar movements is the fact that since 2005 they have introduced a patented system of manual adjustment – under-lug correctors. Traditionally these manual adjustment mechanisms have always been built into the sides of the cases. In fact, most other perpetual calendars still use these correctors, which appear as small dimples on the case of the watches. The clever use of under-lug correctors by Blancpain enhances the watch in two ways.
The first of which is purely functional where instead of needing a tool to depress the dimples on the case, the lever on the underside of the lugs can be manipulated using one’s fingernails. Secondly, the discarding of these dimples can now allow the watch case to have an entirely smooth surface, adding heaps to the elegance of the watch. This is especially prominent in the case of the Reference 6656 where the beautifully minimalistic dial is complemented by the blemish-free red gold polished case.
MOON FACE INDICATOR
Okay, before you grab your pitchforks protesting this sub-heading, it is indeed quite a literal reference to the little face present on the moonphase indicator on the dial. The moonphase has always been a significant part of Blancpain’s history; One could even say that it is the perfect representation of Blancpain’s ethos as a watch company.
As the story goes, the legendary Jean-Claude Biver said when he bought Blancpain in 1982: “There has never been a quartz Blancpain, and there never will be.” Back then, even the Swiss watch brands were starting to dabble with quartz technology during the era of the quartz crisis. But Blancpain took an opposite stance, instead, doubling down its efforts to cement the mechanical watch’s place in contemporary times by demonstrating how quartz could never replicate the complexity, craftsmanship and history of traditional watchmaking. One of the first complications they decided to make in its modern era was a moon phase indicator in 1983.
Looking at the moon phase indicator on the new Villeret Quantième Perpétuel Ref. 6656, I feel like the face on this moon is portraying something akin to an all-knowing smirk. Perhaps it knows that Blancpain’s choice to make a statement with this complication basically predicted the role of the mechanical watch for contemporary times, not just for Blancpain, but arguably for the entire luxury watch industry that exists today.
The design of the dial is the same Ref. 6656 that was first launched in 2018 which also served as a replacement for the Ref. 6057 which offered a similar design, day, date, month and leap year indicators in three subdials, but in a smaller 38mm case. The new Ref 6656 on the other hand is housed in a 40mm red gold case complete with the collection’s signature double-stepped case. Last but certainly not least, the new look is also defined by the mesmerising, deep green of the dial. The colour along with its sunburst pattern was inspired by the fir forests of the Vallée de Joux that surround the Grandes Complications workshop where the watch is meticulously crafted by its master watchmakers.
Celebrating G-Shock’s deep connection with Japanese culture, Casio turned to the country’s history, more than 400 years in the past, resurrecting the soul of the Samurai to influence the creation of the brand new MRGB2000SG. This fantastic watch was designed alongside the creation of the Shougeki-Maru: Gai, a unique kabuto helmet made by two of Japan’s nationally acclaimed artisans – Kobayashi Masao and Suzukine Yuzan – especially to celebrate the MR-G series.
Transferring all the intricacies of the helmet onto the watch was no easy feat. However, Casio managed to accomplish this through a number of highly unique design characteristics. The first and most discernible of which is the outer bezel of the watch. Here, the master metalsmith, Kobayashi Masao, chiselled indentations onto the metal bezel, creating a unique rock-grain relief pattern. Additionally, the ferocious tiger found on the maedate crest on the helmet is also hand-engraved onto the bezel.
The case of this extravagant watch is crafted using ionised titanium making the watch incredibly light despite its size. Additionally, the case is also finished with a deep-layer hardening process which increases its scratch resistance while also revealing a unique crystalline pattern that encapsulates the entirety of the watch. The white Dura Soft band was chosen to reflect the white ito odoshi (overlaying plates of armour bound together with white string) of the Shougeki-Maru: Gai. This strap, made with soft fluor rubber is flexible on the wrist and has excellent durability and stain resistance.
The MRG-B2000SG also represents a confluence where craftsmanship meets technology. Despite all the oldworld techniques utilised on its exterior, the internal electronic movement of the watch offers a host of new-world technologies. First, the watch is powered by the sun, through Casio’s Tough Solar system. Then, the watch is also capable of calibrating its timekeeping in a myriad of ways. It receives radio signals periodically throughout the day to synchronise the time and also it can be adjusted through a Bluetooth connection with a smartphone. In terms of functionality, the watch offers a dualtime configuration with the ability to adjust for 27 different time zones and for those who might travel to seasonal countries, it can even automatically adjust for daylight savings time.
The MRG-B2000SG is a limited edition of only 700 pieces worldwide, with only five units in Malaysia. It is available at the G-Shock stores in Lalaport and IOI City Mall Putrajaya at a retail price of MYR 30,995.
Look no further than Bell & Ross when you train your sight on contemporary design in the arena of watchmaking. The emblematic “square within a circle” is a hallmark comparable to some of the legendary aesthetics within the industry. Its endeavours are laudable because despite its recency, having founded in 1992, Bell & Ross has already firmly established itself as a major player and successfully blazed a trail with a design language wholly its own. The BR 03-94 Blacktrack chronograph is very much an epitome of this daring approach.
Inspired by the avant-garde Blacktrack BT-06 motorcycle, the new chronograph is an extension of this machine, from sharing the iconoclastic looks and down to the enigmatic soul. A collaboration between prolific designer Sacha Lakic and Bell & Ross, the basis to the chronograph is drawn from the aerodynamic lines of stealth aircraft and bolstered by the genius of Lakic. The man has won accolades for his endeavours, inter alia, responsible for the style of Venturi, an exceptional electric sports carmaker. In 2016, spurred on by his success, Lakic instituted Blacktrack, his own motorcycle brand as proof that his love of speed is genuine.
The passion is shared by Bell & Ross. In 2011, Bell & Ross hopped on a partnership with Shaw Harley-Davidson to create the Nascafe Racer Bell & Ross. It gave rise to the unique BR 01 Carbon watch, which could be embedded into the bike’s central console. The favourable reception furthered their partnership in 2014, in the form of the BR 01 chronograph, and its twin, the BR 03 B-Rocket. Both were heavily influenced by Shaw Harley- Davidson’s B-Rocket, as well as an obsession of Bell & Ross’ creative director and co-founder Bruno Belamich, the jet plane.
The BR 03-94 Blacktrack chronograph thoroughly echoes both of these supremely engineered bikes and jets from the design perspective. Water resistant to 100 metres, the chronograph features a 42mm matt black ceramic case. It highlights faceted angles borrowed from stealth fighters, while the black calfskin strap, hemmed with a red edge and lined with high-resistance technical material, is a reference to the Blacktrack motorcycle, which serves as the muse. The quilting on the strap is an ode to the bike’s saddle cover and rider’s protective suit.
Bell & Ross debuts the redesigned subdials for the new chronograph, which have adopted the shape of the dials on motorcycle handlebars. Furthermore, the superposition of the off-centre chronograph seconds hand over the minute hand to create the Blacktrack “B” is a subtle detail not to be overlooked. Despite the monochromatic combination of grey and black, information presented on the chronograph is designed for legibility while balancing the cool factor. Boasting 42 hours of power reserve, the BR-CAL.301 self-winding mechanical movement is exceptionally finished. More importantly, the BR 03-94 Blacktrack chronograph can be inserted in the bike’s centre console, proving that it is not only a wristwatch but an instrument.
A study of CORUM’s repertoire reveals a telling observation; the brand doesn’t do things the conventional way. Case in point: The Bubble houses a magnifying domed sapphire crystal, while the Golden Bridge emphasises a singular baguette movement. And today’s focus falls on the Admiral, a collection of timepieces evincing a distinctive dodecagonal bezel. As the name suggests, the Admiral has maritime provenance. Originally conceived over 60 years ago as a companion to yachting, with a suite of nautical pennants on the dial as signatures, the Admiral has gone through numerous metamorphoses over the years. The latest evolution sees it take on one of the most beloved watchmaking materials today: ceramic.
Ceramic is favoured by watchmakers who possess the know-how to fully exploit its unique qualities, such as durability, scratch and corrosion resistance, to their advantage. The composition of ceramic splits between aluminium oxide (Al2O3) and zirconium oxide (ZrO2), making it around 20 to 25 percent lighter than the prevalent 316L stainless steel.
Bolder and beaming with personality, CORUM also presents two extraordinary additions to the Admiral family, called Admiral 42 “TAG”. They are called TAG because the watches feature a creative element in the form of graffiti. The first of the two is limited to 50 pieces. It is attired in a full-black sand-blasted ceramic case and a sleek black NATO strap. The Corum logo is “tagged” across the dial, though one might not immediately notice it. It is a watch that is deceptively discreet in daylight but audaciously eye-catching at nighttime, thanks to the rich luminescence that comes alive in the dark.
Crafted in white ceramic, the second reference is decidedly effervescent, with the indexes and hands generously painted in a rainbow of colours for an added touch of idiosyncrasy. CORUM pushes the boundaries in reshaping the watch into a canvas for individuality and unadulterated artistic expressions.
These statement timepieces beat with the precision of the C0 395 automatic movement, offering 42 hours of power reserve. The sapphire crystal case back permits unobstructed views of the movement, reaffirming CORUM’s commitment to redefine the horological landscape through craftsmanship, innovation and daring.
There is a reason why the watches in the independent watchmaking landscape look so different from one brand to the next. Unlike the traditional brands which have existed for centuries and have developed their own rigid design and watchmaking principles, those that venture into independent watchmaking do so for a variety of different reasons. Some go at it to break the rules of horology, others want to bring back the most traditional forms of watchmaking. For Ressence however, their goal was simple, to make a watch that tells time in the most legible and practical of ways.
Ressence Type 1 M
This quest for legibility was the brainchild of Benoît Mintiens, the founder of Ressence. In his words “A product only gets its reason from its function. A product that has no function has no reason to exist. A watch is made to express time and so we thought, how can we maximise that?” By looking at this problem from through the lens of someone from outside of the watchmaking industry, the result is as innovative and as unorthodox as we soon found out.
Just by looking at the watch, its dial is unlike anything else on the market. The concept takes the basic premise of regulatorstyle watches and separates the hour and minute functions detaching them from the central axis that most watches use. The kicker is that as the minutes tick by, the entire disc rotates stringing along the little subdial for the hour that rotates on its axis as well. To aid in its legibility, the dial is also curved so it sits as close as possible to the domed sapphire crystal.
Ressence Type 3 EE
Although the Ressence watches, like the colourful new Ressence TYPE 1° M from their core collection, look to be on the funky, playful side, all of their watches actually pack some really clever innovations just beneath the domed dial. Arguably, there will be a camp of people that will not consider these innovations serious “horology” techniques, but it doesn’t change the fact that these are mechanical complications in their own right.
To drive this unique style of time telling, Mintiens imagined the ROCS module which stands for Ressence Orbital Convex System. The basic premise of this module is a series of gear trains that sit just underneath the convex dial and allow the watch to move in its orbital way. Meeting Mintiens at The Hour Glass boutique recently he demonstrated just how this system works, and although the gearing itself doesn’t look all too complicated, the innovative bit is that this entire module can be driven by just the minute function on a standard movement.
Yup, you read right, most of the watches from Ressence’s repertoire function with an ETA movement. Of course, considering the asking price, the ETA movement they use is not exactly just the stock 2824 calibre. Instead, they use the base ETA movement as their canvas, disassembling it to remove the components that are unnecessary leaving just the minutes function. Then, they have to replace specific parts with that made of titanium because according to Mintiens, the torque generated by the ROCS module can sometimes break the stock components. Additionally, the barrel also has to be replaced as more power is needed to drive the orbital geartrain of the mechanism. “The barrel has to be replaced to one that is almost similar to a barrel you would find on a chronograph movement,” he explains. Still, this method of using ETA bases remains more cost-effective than actually buying the components and assembling the entire thing themselves.
Speaking to Mintiens, he reiterates “I am interested in watches because it is an interesting product. I am a product designer, so I am interested in products more than I am interested in watches.” In looking at the watch from this viewpoint, Ressence is not afraid to explore options that are unorthodox within a traditional watch industry. For example, the idea of filling a watch with oil would normally destroy a mechanical movement but in the pursuit of legibility, Ressence created the Type 3, which does exactly that. The concept of filling the dial with oil comes from the principles of light refraction. Because oil and glass share similar refraction properties, it tricks the eye, making the dial look like it is right on the surface of the crystal.
To do this, the entire top half, including the ROCS module, is submerged in oil leaving the base movement below in a normal air-filled chamber. Then, to transmit the minute information from the base movement to the ROCS module which is now separated, they use micro-magnets to relay information. The easiest analogy to explain this is the magnetic aquarium cleaners where the one outside the aquarium is magnetically attached to its counterpart inside allowing the user to wipe the inner glass by moving the component on the outside.
For Ressence the fact that it was born outside the watchmaking industry gives it an unbridled approach to watch design. “Normal watchmaking always starts with the movement so we [Ressence] have a different approach leading to a different result. And all this stems from the design thinking approach where you really try to put the user at the centre of everything and work around the user and not around the movement and to me this is something that comes from the design world.”
Ressence is one of those brands that truly offers a product unlike any other in the current watch industry. Having been born in Antwerp, Mintiens says “Belgium is sandwiched between France and Germany; the French take design very seriously, the Germans are serious, and Belgians have Belgitude, meaning we don’t take ourselves very seriously.”
2024 marks the return of the Year of the Dragon. Returning once every 12 years, this celestial creature is associated with prosperity and is a symbol of luck, strength and wisdom. The dragon is also an imperial icon that embodies life and immortality. In honour of this auspicious creature, LUXUO lists the exclusive festive releases and dynamic timepieces to usher in the Year of the Dragon — from dragon motifs to dragon figurines and every scale inbetween.
Vacheron Constantin
The Grisaille High Jewellery Dragon’s grisaille enamelling technique is objectively rare, and is a first for Vacheron Constantin in this shade of green. Note the 146 baguette-cut diamonds on the bezel and case of the 40 mm white gold watch, which take nothing away from the subtlety at the heart of this unique piece. Absent even a seconds indicator, it might be the most restrained watch on this list…
Ulysse Nardin
To celebrate the Lunar New Year, Ulysse Nardin combines the majestic dragon with the alluring pearl. The Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon Dragon is an embodiment of in-house innovations, métiers d’art and the magic of the Year of the Dragon. This limited edition timepiece is crafted from 5N rose gold with black DLC-coated titanium sections. The two-dimensional enamel dial features an intricate red gold dragon extending across the dial towards a pearl sculpture. The case back’s “X” shape is a signature of the watch and has become a notable feature of the modern Ulysse Nardin.
Piaget
Piaget’s new Dragon & Phoenix capsule collection features 10 daring designs of exceptional watches and High Jewellery pieces – topped off with a pair of extravagantly exclusive, made-to-order high jewellery cuff watches. Each creation brims with emotion and exuberance, joyfully channelling the codes of the Maison while celebrating the house’s unparalleled watchmaking savoir-faire. In the example seen here, the dial features the fine paillonne enamel craftwork of the famed Anita Porchet, framing a engraved gold dragon.
Chopard
Chopard’s L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Dragon is an 88-piece limited edition in ethical rose gold and boasts a continuation of the brand’s exploration of the traditional Japanese urushi craft; the dial was crafted by a Japanese Maki-e master using urushi lacquer, gold powder and mother-of-pearl inlays. The in-house L.U.C 96.17-L calibre with micro-rotor ensures that a slender profile of just 6.80 mm can be maintained. It mingles technical savoir-faire and artistic flair delivered by Chopard Manufacture.
Breguet unveils two new exceptional timepieces as a tribute to the emblematic Year of the Dragon. The first is the special edition Classique Double Tourbillon Dragon 5345, which sees a hand-engraved golden dragon twirl between the watch’s twin tourbillons. The dragon is seen clutching a pearl made of mother-of-pearl in its talons. The rhodiumised gold rotating plate is hand-guillochéd with a fan motif. The gold bridge below the mainplate features an anthracite galvanic treatment and Clous de Paris hobnail motif guilloché.
Next is the Classique Dragon 7145 which features a hand-engraved rose gold appliqué dragon standing triumphantly on the dial with the watches Roman numerals, minutes track and clouds finished in a golden powder-pink hue. The manufacture calibre 502.3 beats inside a 40 mm rose gold case which is one of Breguet’s thinnest at just 2.40 mm thick.
Drawing inspiration from the traditional Chinese art of paper cutting, the Spirit of Big Bang Titanium Dragon layers its hands, wheels and H-shaped screws to form a 3D silhouette of an eastern dragon. It is a formidable expression of creativity that bridges form and function. Created in collaboration with the Chinese artist Chen Fenwan, this limited edition timepiece of 88 pieces is the perfect fusion of tradition and modernity, combining metaphors and symbols in the spirit of Hublot.
Bovet
Bovet’s artisans combined the art of sculpting miniatures with its established mastery of high horology in the Recital 26 Chapter Two Dragon. The result is a hand-engraved horological objet dárt. A domed blue quartz dial displays the local time zone’s hours and minutes in the upper part of the case. The dome located at 3 o’clock displays a second time zone specifically developed for this timepiece and patented by Bovet.
Roger Dubuis
Roger Dubuis utilised the Year of the Dragon to introduce the Excalibur Dragon Monotourbillon. The timepiece’s watchmaking innovation highlights the dance, complexity, artistry, and symbolism of the festive season all in one. For the sculpture of the dragon, the watchmakers have used 27 individual pieces of brass – each embellished with black lacquer on the sides and a pink gold treatment on the polished top surface. The pieces are then set on 25 different levels, producing a mutli-dimensional vision that is full of volume and vitality, thus enriching the skeletonised movement.
IWC Schaffhausen
IWC Schaffhausen welcomes the Lunar New Year with a special edition release of the Portugieser Chronograph. This timepiece features a 41 mm stainless steel case, a burgundy dial and contrasting gold-plated hands and appliques. Limited to 1,000 pieces, this watch features its rotor in the form of a majestic dragon, visible through the sapphire crystal case back. The watch is powered by the manufacture 69355 calibre.
Bell & Ross
Envoking tattoo artistry, the BR 05 Artline Dragon watch takes on this bold personality, with its own exclusive laser engraving. By adopting this graphic code, the timepiece visually plays on light and shadow through the relative fineness and thickness of each stroke honing in on the precision of line work that is crucial to “transcending the realm of drawing to that of a metal tattoo”. On the BR 05 Artline Dragon’s dial and integrated bracelet, the decorative motif is finely engraved.
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre adds a new chapter to this story of craftsmanship and artistry with the Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Dragon’. The new timepiece pays tribute to the Year of the Dragon, and to the talents of the master enamellers and engravers in the Métiers Rares atelier of the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre. Created to celebrate the Zodiac Year and made only to order, the Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Dragon’ is testament to La Grande Maison’s vision of culture and creativity, where the artistic crafts merge with the technical expertise of the watchmakers.
Blancpain
In 2012, Blancpain achieved a world-first when it debuted its Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar wristwatch that spanned East-West with its combination of a complex Chinese calendar and a Gregorian date and moonphase. This year, the Manufacture enters its second 12-year cycle with the introduction of a new limited edition of this grand complication featuring a dragon engraved on the red gold winding rotor in honor of the symbol of the new lunar year. This special limited edition for the first time is executed in red gold with a green enamel dial against a frosted background; the dragon is flanked by a red ruby and a Chinese character engraving of the words “dragon” and “wood”, the element of 2024.
Franck Muller
Franck Muller’s release of special edition timepieces comes every Lunar New Year to mark the procession of animals in the Chinese zodiac. Honouring the mythical dragon, the new Vanguard Dragon Slim Skeleton Limited Edition bears a customised rotor that has been engraved with a dragon, which appears to coil around and protect the timepieces’s movement like a “mystical guardian”. The Vanguard Dragon Slim Skeleton Rouge and Vert are accented in red and green respectively, with the pops of color coming from its tinted sapphire caseback – the special bright hues reflected in said caseback mirror that of the dial. Only 10 pieces will be available of each reference, including the Colour Dreams version (which is distinguished by a transparent caseback) exclusively at Franck Muller boutiques in the Asia Pacific region.
Parmigiani Fleurier
Maison Parmigiani celebrates the Year of the Wood Dragon with a magnificent restoration of a masterpiece from its Métiers d’Art collection, the “Tempus Fugit”. Inspired by the legend of the Dragon and the Pearl of Knowledge, the piece incorporates powerful symbols anchored deep in traditional Chinese culture. This piece is a reference to Parmigiani Fleurier’s vast experience in the restoration of antique clocks and its fascination with kinetic art.
L’Epée
The movement “Swiss Made Caliber 1853” was created entirely by L’Epée 1839, has 124 parts meticulously assembled by the L’Epée 1839’s master watchmakers. Two dragons “protect” on either side of the most precious part of a kinetic object — the gearing mechanism. The dragons with golden or palladium scale adopt mirrored postures, their serpentine body coils protectively around the horological craftmanship.
For more on the latest in luxury watch releases, click here.
As Martin Frei, one-half of the founding members of Urwerk puts it “To make watches, one must first be interested in time.” Indeed, Urwerk is a brand that not only pushes the boundaries of timekeeping from the mechanical sense but also from a philosphical perspective. Previously they made a device with a 1,000-year indicator and today, they offer up a timepiece that pays tribute to one of the pioneering civilisations to keep time, the Sumerians, inhabitants of Ur.
This watch, the Urwerk UR-100V “Time and Culture II” is particularly important to the brand as the ancient city of Ur is where the Ur in Urwerk comes from. Interestingly, when we had a conversation with Frei on one of his visits to Kuala Lumpur, he mentioned that the whole “Time and Culture” collection was actually inspired by a customer from Singapore who requested from Urwerk a timepiece that looks back at the history of timekeeping. From there, the Time and Culture I was born. This first watch reproduced a replica of an actual Mayan calendar that was engraved in stone on the dial. And now, for the second watch in this collection, they travelled to the heart of the Mesopotamian civilisation.
The main engraving on the dial of this watch bears an insignia which the Sumerians used to represent the sun god. Here, depicted in its original 2,000-year-old form, it is still surprisingly contemporary bearing four points that today represent the four cardinal points: North, South, East and West. Throughout the dial, the intricate engravings mirror authentic Sumerian sky charts, highlighting their observation of the night sky and also some say the base foundation of Astronomy as we know it today.
Just as with the first watch, the etchings on this version have also been engraved by laser and the ridges are satin-finished. The entire dial has also been given a blue tint as a reference to lapis lazuli, a stone that is linked to Innana, the goddess of Love, War and Fertility.
Powering the watch is the Calibre UR 12.02 movement but a nice touch for this timepiece is that two additional indications have been added to the dial. When the arrow disappears from the minute counter at the 6 o’clock position it will next show up at the 10 and subsequently 2 o’clock position. These two counters track first the 477.29 kilometres covered every 20 minutes indicating the distance travelled by each inhabitant of Ur as the earth rotates around its axis; next is the 35,742 kilometres that the earth travels as it rotates around the sun within a 20-minute window.
A pillar to Grand Seiko inimitable identity is its unwavering belief in the Japanese-inspired aesthetics. Evidence is laid out on the dial of the SBGA211, endearingly dubbed the Snowflake, which bears imprint of a fresh snow dusting, or the dial of the SLGA007, which evokes the crests of waves gliding across the surface of Lake Suwa. While nature serves as an inspirational source, the manner of which Grand Seiko goes about its business transcends the trope; it is an encapsulation of Japan’s distinctive culture and tenets.
Few sceneries in Japan can rival the majesty of Mount Fuji. The iconic volcano is to Japan, what the Eiffel Tower is to Paris or the Statue of Liberty is to New York City. The importance of which can’t be understated and it has manifested in countless artworks, like The Great Wave off Kanagawa. Now, Mount Fuji has made it onto watches, referenced by Grand Seiko’s latest timepiece, the SBGH327.
The vermilion colour dominating the dial alludes to a fleeting moment when Mount Fuji transforms into the stunning Aka Fuji, or Red Fuji, where it bathes in a beautiful deep-red radiance. This natural phenomenon occurs once or twice a year, during the changing of the seasons, when summer eases into autumn, when clear air and altostratus clouds combine to reflect the fiery glow of sunrise and sunset onto the mountain. It carries with it ethnological significance, symbolising happiness and success. The Aka Fuji is thought to bring good fortune, thus bridging the gap between nature’s beauty and human aspirations.
A limited edition, the timepiece is produced to commemorate the first anniversary of Grand Seiko Asia Pacific’s establishment. Therefore, it is also the organisation’s first-ever regional exclusive timepiece, available in 168 pieces and Grand Seiko’s boutiques and authorised dealers across Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia, Vietnam and Philippines.
The exceptional features of the watch span beyond the dial. The watch embodies Grand Seiko’s commitment to excellence and attention to detail. The Zaratsu polishing technique is employed to impart the 39.5mm stainless steel case with an exquisite sheen, while the case is fitted with a dual-curve sapphire crystal to enhance legibility. The transparent caseback invites admiration of the in-house Hi-Beat Cal. 9S85 automatic movement, with a brilliant decorative finish and a precision of +8 to -1 seconds per day with normal usage. The 36,000 vibrationper- hour frequency ranks above industry standards, with the power reserve lasting approximately 55 hours. The watch is provisioned with a stainless steel bracelet, equipped with a three-fold clasp.
Huawei is a brand we never thought would appear within a periodical such as this, but surprisingly, their latest HUAWEI WATCH ULTIMATE DESIGN ticks quite a few boxes that we think would appeal to watch enthusiasts.
At first glance, the watch seems to be like the run-ofthe- mill smartwatch in black with gold accents. Upon closer inspection however, the watch reveals materials that currently resonate within the luxury watch industry. Starting with the case, it offers a Zirconium-based liquid metal material which is similar to the ceramic material used in high-end watches, and it comes with the same lightweight properties, hardness and resistance to corrosion. The bezel is made from nanocrystal ceramic with segments of 18-carat gold. Even the numerals on the bezel offers craftsmanship unlike any other smartwatch we know off. To keep the lustre of the numerals, it is first given a modern PVD coating and after that painted with an ancient gold lacquering process.
Even the construction of the crown has been taken seriously by Huawei. A diamond-cut engraving process, the same used when making gold jewellery, is adopted to give the crown its 3D trapezoidal pattern. And of course, for the crystal that protects the screen of the smartwatch, you won’t find any Gorilla glass here, instead it is the tried-and-true sapphire crystal most modern luxury watches use.
The watch is paired with an equally impressive three-link bracelet. In keeping with the lightweight nature of the watch, they used titanium for the bracelet with gold-coated centre links. As a testament to Huawei’s conviction to grab a share of the luxury watch market, they have even designed their own clasp that combines more than ten parts to lock the watch in place and even offer quick adjustments to the wearer. And in a bold statement, they claim it is “lighter and thinner than some of the most famed luxury watches by traditional watchmakers in the industry.”
At the heart of the watch you will find a module that comes with everything you would expect out of a modern smartwatch. This includes GPS capabilities via an antenna cleverly hidden within the bezel of the watch, a 1.5-inch Low- Temperature Polycrystalline Oxide (LTPO) AMOLED screen and a full suite of revolutionary sports and health features. And it even has a 14-day power reserve! Well, technically a 14-day battery life with normal use. For more information, you can visit consumer.huawei.com/my
What better way to celebrate Italian craftsmanship than with the combination of two renowned names in the world of luxury? During Watches & Wonders in Shanghai, Officine Panerai released a new collaboration timepiece with the luxury fashion house – Prada – to offer a Luminor Due watch paired with Prada’s Re-Nylon strap.
For aficionados of luxury fashion, Re-Nylon should sound familiar as it represents Prada’s take on sustainable fabrics. The straps are crafted from ECONYL®, which is a recycled nylon made from pre- and post-consumer materials such as fishing nets, discarded nylon, carpets and industrial waste. Expertly crafting the material into gorgeous straps for the Luminor Due, Prada has chosen four hues – iron grey, navy blue, alabaster pink and Fiordaliso light grey – to fit the 42mm and 38mm versions of the watch.
Hands down, our pick is the PAM01426, which offers a decidedly unique combination, pairing a stainless-steel case with a white matte dial and the sublime Fiordaliso light grey Re- Nylon strap. Okay, we understand that for men, Panerai watches should sit slightly larger on the wrist but hear us out, even though the case for this particular reference is 38mm, with the crown protection device protruding out, it still maintains its presence on the wrist. And that colour combination is just fantastic!
If you are still not convinced, however, there are versions of this watch with the classic 42mm case size, offering both a sunburst white or blue dial, paired with a grey or navy-blue Re- Nylon strap accordingly. One difference to note however is that for the 42mm versions of the collection, the straps will come with an adjustable polished-steel buckle while the 38mm variants will come with the traditional pin buckle system. Each of the straps offers Panerai’s PAM Click release system which is paramount considering that the strap is just as celebrated as the watch case and buyers would probably want to get all colour options and mix and match them as desired.
All four references of the Panerai Luminor Due Prada Re- Nylon collection come with Panerai’s signature sandwich dial and the small seconds counter at the 9 o’clock position. The watches are all powered by the P.900 calibre, an automatic movement that will offer an Incabloc® anti-shock device, 28,000 bph and a long 3-day power reserve. These watches are already available at the Panerai boutique in Pavilion Kuala Lumpur.
MOVEMENT Self-winding Calibre P-900, 3-day power reserve CASE 38mm/42mm polished steel, Safety Lock crown protection device STRAP Prada Re-Nylon in alabaster pink (38mm), Fiordaliso light grey (38mm), navy blue (42mm) and iron grey (42mm) PRICE MYR 29,000 (38mm), MYR 30,700 (42mm)
If there is one element that would define Franck Muller watches apart from their tonneau-shaped case, it would be the Cintrée Curvex™ shape of their watches. This curved profile allows the watch to hug the circumference of the wrist resulting in an extremely comfortable wear. With their latest launch, Franck Muller takes this feeling of comfort to the next level by totally redesigning the Vanguard case with remarkably balanced proportions and a gracefully thinner profile. Introducing the Vanguard Slim Skeleton.
This new addition trades in the oversized nature of the Vanguard collection for a more proportional watch relative to the average size of Asian wrists. At only 9.1mm thick, the case also comes with a new size for Franck Muller – 37mm – making it wearable regardless of gender. For those with larger wrists, there is also a 41mm option which doesn’t compromise in terms of thickness.
To achieve this new silhouette, the designers at Franck Muller had to come up with a thinner movement, and thus, the calibre MVT FM 708-SQ was born. This in-house movement was redesigned specifically for the Vanguard Slim Skeleton resulting in a thinner movement, 4.15mm for the 37mm version and a mere 3.83mm for the 41mm version.
Additionally, the movement has also been open-worked with care so that its internal architecture is highly visible. During this process, the movement’s designers also ensured that the remaining parts of the skeletonised bridges synchronised with the signature oversized numerals. In doing this, there is a feeling of airiness within the case of the watch where light can freely travel from one sapphire crystal in the front to the other in the back if it is not blocked by the numerals.
Adding on to this idea of the interplay of light, the entire watch is also paved with 144 brilliant-cut diamonds on the dial and a further 422 diamonds adorning the case, totalling nearly 3.6 carats for the 37mm version. The strap of the watch seamlessly integrates into the case, extending the curved nature of the Vanguard Slim Skeleton. These hand-sewn alligator straps with a rubber underside will be available in either black or blue to accompany the 18-carat white or rose gold case.
One of the most appealing elements of watchmaking as we know it today, is its provenance. Knowing the watch or brand we put on our wrist represents the culmination of decades and sometimes centuries of history is part of why we take the trouble to wear these relics of the past. Panerai understands this and goes to great lengths to update its watches in a way that preserves the heritage while still being able to offer the customer something novel.
The Luminor Marina Panerai Goldtech™ PAM01112 is the perfect example of what we mean by this. With Panerai’s history of making watches for the Royal Italian Navy since the 20th century, a lot of their designs revolve around functionality and robustness in keeping with military use. However, for this modern watch, you can still see a lot of these historic elements preserved although they are more likely to be worn with business suits than diving suits. Like the crown guard, for example, it is no longer necessary to offer this kind of protection for a full gold watch but it is the inclusion of this feature that sometimes makes Panerai’s offerings one of a kind.
The gold used on this watch is Panerai’s trademarked Goldtech™ which is an alloy of gold combining copper and platinum to give it a more intensely red appearance. And with the large 44mm diameter of the case, the heft of this watch on the wrist is substantial in the best possible way. For the sapphire crystal, Panerai chose corundum, which is an aluminium oxide material that is the hardest known substance after diamonds. The technology put into the watch doesn’t stop there. Despite its classical appearance, the P.9010 calibre movement powering the watch is made with modern technologies like the Glucydur balance which is made mainly of beryllium and copper allowing it to be more stable through temperature changes. With its twin barrels among the 200 components of the movement, it can also provide the watch with a power reserve of 3 days.
On the dial, the watch offers a sandwich construction with the indices perforated to reveal the white Super-LumiNova beneath. Fun fact, the Luminor name actually came from Panerai’s innovative luminous substance, launched in 1949 that was both safer than the radium-based Radiomir lume (not to be confused with the collection of the same name) and glowed brighter. The Luminor collection today is recognised for its cushion-style case, wide and flat bezel, and its crown-protecting device. Each of these watches will be paired with a blue alligator leather strap to match the dial and its trapezoidal pin buckle will also be made with Panerai Goldtech™. In keeping with the original function of the Panerai watches, the new Luminor Marina Panerai Goldtech™ PAM01112 will be water resistant up to 300m.
The success of a watch collection is its own conundrum. What we mean by that is, if a watch is selling particularly well, do you mess around with the collection to update it for the future, risking changing something that maybe may not sit well with the fans? Or do you leave it be, risking getting left behind by the industry’s progress? Thankfully, for Bell & Ross, this is not a hard question to answer.
Over the course of the last 15-plus years, their Bell & Ross BR 03 has grown to become one of the staples of the brand, even inspiring the design for newer collections within their watch family. However, whether or not to update such an icon is not even a deliberation for the brand because the fundamental value upon which the BR 03 was built, is functionality. Thus, if there is an opportunity to improve on an existing design, they are definitely going to do it. Hence, we introduce the classic, but newly updated BR 03.
CLASSIC, REDEFINED
When the BR 01 made its debut, it was massive. 46mm wide to be exact and this was predominantly to facilitate its function as a tool watch. For those with a bigger wrist circumference, a 46mm watch sits well on the wrist but for the smaller wrist sizes, it was entirely too large and would sometimes wear quite uncomfortably as well. To fix this, Bell & Ross then launched the much more wearable BR 03 a year after the BR 01 first made its debut. And so, in 2006, the BR 03 and its smaller 42mm case was launched.
42mm was and still remains a sweet spot for sporty watches which is why for more than 15 years, the BR 03 maintained its sizing. It is not too large that it rattles around the wrist when strapped on, and yet it is not too small and still maintains its presence on the wrist. Since its launching in 2006, countless versions of this BR 03 watch have been made. In the early days, most of it revolved around aeronautical themes but then in recent years, the BR 03 has gone from the skies to race on land through their collaboration with Renault, and subsequently the Alpine Formula 1 team, and to the depths of the ocean as the world’s first square dive watch. It has been made with steel, titanium, bronze, carbon and ceramic cases and has seen all manner of complications including the chronograph and GMT functions. Now, as the next step of the BR 03’s evolution, it gets a further update to its design going from 42mm to, drumroll please, 41mm.
On paper, a difference of 1mm in case width may not seem like such a big deal but what the specifications don’t show is the adjustment of the proportions which makes the watch even more visually striking. The case size is shrunk down, by 1mm and the lug width is reduced from 4.5mm to 4mm. Additionally, the bezel has been beefed up slightly as well and when you put all these elements together, the eye can immediately perceive the bolder look of the BR 03.
Another fantastic update to the BR 03 comes from something that can’t even be seen. The BR-Cal.302 movement that has been powering most of the modern BR 03 watches has now been modified so that instead of the classic 42-hour power reserve the watch now gets 12 more hours with a new 54-hour power reserve. What this means in practical terms is that if you take your watch off on a Friday evening for the weekend, on Monday, when you put it back on your wrist for the week, the time will still be accurate.
TALKING SHOP
Following the launch, or rather, relaunch of the collection, we got to sit down with Fabien de Nonancourt, the Managing Director of Bell & Ross to dig a little deeper into the redesigning of this core collection.
DG: With the debut of the Kenissi made movements with the BR X5, was there ever a consideration to put these movements into the BR03?
FN: Just as how in the BR 05 collection you have both the Sellita and the Kenissi made movements, we decided to first go with the latest Sellita movements for the BR 03 because it is a movement that fits the needs of the majority of our users. Maybe in the future we could have a version that comes with the Kenissi movement. Also the Kenissi movement is slightly thicker and with a square watch, the thickness plays a more significant role in terms of aesthetics.
DG: Talk to me about the copper dial version of the BR 03 in steel. It is a very unique look.
FN: Yes, with the copper dial version, we chose the particular finishing to reflect watchmaking traditions. The dial was made with an old technique whereby the numerals are engraved on the dial and after that it was filled with black Super-Luminova. As opposed to the other dials which the numerals are printed on. And also, we have the blued-hands, in this case, done with a PVD coating.
DG: The pricing has increased a little from the previous generation of BR 03 watches. So where did the extra cost come from?
FN: Inflation [laughs]. Unfortunately everything costs a little more to produce these days.
DG: With the shrinking of the BR 03’s case, will we see this happen to the dive watch and the chronograph as well?
FN: Not necessarily because the idea is to provide different sizing for our customers. Like if you notice with most brands, the chronograph is larger than the three hands. Even our BR 05 if you notice that our chronographs are slightly larger as well. So with this BR 03 re-design we are giving more choice to our consumers.
DG: This will effectively replace the old BR 03? when can customers expect to see this in stores?
FN: We have already stopped supplying the 42mm BR 03 to our retailers so it is gradually starting to disappear from the stores. You still can get the 42mm for a few more months but after that stock is gone, it will be 100 percent 41mm BR 03s.
Each of these watches will come with a rubber or calfskin strap depending on the model and is water resistant up to 100m. Prices begin at MYR 15,600 onwards.
If the name wasn’t already a dead giveaway that this new collection ventures into sportier territory, then I don’t know how else Parmigiani could be clearer. If you are familiar with the Parmigiani from before their current CEO, Guido Terreni’s, tenure, you will note that the Tonda PF Sport’s aesthetics seem to represent a modern revamp of their Tonda GT collection.
The most obvious difference is that the big date that was usually at the 12 o’clock position is gone, replaced by the PF insignia which is one of the identifying factors of the new Tonda PF collection. There is still a date, but now it has been relocated to the 4 o’clock position. One small detail to note is that, unlike other date windows in this position, the numerals are actually oriented vertically instead of following the date wheel’s circumference making it palatable to the more discerning watch enthusiast.
The more nuanced changes to the collection come in the form of a new knurled bezel which now has 160 incisions rather than 225. Translated to visual terms, this means the knurling is now more obvious as compared to the Tonda GT and also to the regular Tonda PF. Inversely, the hand-guilloché ‘triangular nail’ pattern is finer than that of the Tonda GT giving the dial a seemingly smoother texture which from afar almost looks like a matte finish.
A few other stand-out features of the new Tonda PF Sport, especially for the Chronograph version, are the chronograph pushers that have been cleverly integrated into the lugs which match the smooth flowing lines of the case. And of course, internally the watch is equipped with a Calibre PF070 movement which beats at an above-average frequency of 5Hz or 36,000 vph while still being able to offer a 65-hour power reserve. It is a column wheel chronograph, which is clearly visible from the transparent caseback and the function is also engaged via a vertical clutch system.
Just to be clear, according to Parmigiani Fleurier, the Tonda PF Sport is not replacing the Tonda GT, at least for now, so both versions will be sold in tandem. The Tonda PF Sport Chronograph is available in stainless steel or 18ct rose gold and there is also a Tonda PF Sport Automatic if you prefer.
With this year being the 70th anniversary of Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms and what that collection means to the watch industry, it is easy to overlook yet another of Blancpain’s novelties for the year, the Ladybird. On the surface, these new and colourful offerings may seem like just another collection that has been given some new colours along with a dazzling array of diamonds to entice female fans. In truth, however, Blancpain’s Ladybird collection is not simply adapted from a man’s watch with the size reduced. Instead, it was created specifically with all the watchmaking savoire faire of this centuries-old brand to cater to the women of today.
If you look back at the brand’s history, women have always been important to Blancpain. In 1933, the manufacture was the first Swiss watchmaking company to have a female CEO and owner after Betty Fiechter purchased the firm. A few years before that, the firm had already created one of the world’s first automatic wristwatches for women under the name Rolls. This paved the way for further innovation in watchmaking for women and in 1956 when the Ladybird first debuted, it was equipped with the smallest round movement ever conceived at the time.
The novelties found within the latest Ladybird collection do not break any records. What is on offer instead is a vibrant range of colour variations including midnight blue, peacock green, forest green, lilac or turquoise set on a backdrop of textured mother-of-pearl on the dial. These coloured Roman numerals are also accompanied by a strap in a matching hue. Additionally, 70 diamonds are set onto the dial to accompany the small seconds and/or moon-phase indicator found there. And on the 34.9mm case, an additional 59 diamonds with a total weight of 2 carats give the watch an extremely elegant exterior.
This is not to say however that the watch is completely devoid of mechanical prowess. The Calibre 1163 movement powering the small seconds version along with the 1163L for the one with the moon phases indicator, both come packed with a relatively long four-day power reserve and a silicon balance spring. Through the transparent caseback, enthusiasts will notice that the movement is fi nished with the Côtes de Genêve decoration. Additionally, the gold oscillating weight of the self-winding mechanism offers circular open-worked patterns that mirror those found on the dial.
Only a brand like Patek Philippe can pull off making a special edition watch in steel and later offer a production model in White Gold and not diminish the value of either. Yes, we are talking about the new family of Ref. 6007G models that were launched during the Watches & Wonder Geneva show at the end of March earlier this year.
Fans of the brand will remember that back in 2020, Patek Philippe offered a 1,000-piece limited edition of the Ref. 6007A, which was created in the same dial design you see on these fantastic pieces but offered a blue dial along with a stainless-steel case, a rare occurrence within the house of Patek Philippe. This previous limited edition was created to commemorate the opening of their new PP6 production building.
The new Ref. 6007G collection, however, are production models and come in a more modern style. Firstly, the dials have been created in an ebony black colour, that offers three different finishing styles. The least obvious is on the outer ring where there is a smooth polished surface, next the hour track offers a fine circular grain. The most obvious texture on the dial, however, is the carbon fibre-like pattern that has been embossed on the centre portion of the dial. This dial pattern was also seen on Patek Philippe’s 2017 contribution to Only Watch where this pattern was guilloché-ed onto the dial of the first and only titanium version of the Ref. 5208 (it was ultimately sold for CHF 6.2 million).
Circling back to the Ref 6007G collection, the black of the dial is contrasted nicely with accents of colour, just below the hour markers, on the minutes track, and on the second’s hand as well. There are three variations, offering blue, yellow or red colour options and each of these comes paired with a black calfskin strap, also with an embossed ‘carbon’ motif and stitching of the corresponding colour. Each of these watches will be housed in a 40mm white gold case.
Unlike the Ref. 6007A, the limited edition offered in 2020, the new variant comes with a new movement, the calibre 26-330 S C which offers a 45-hour power reserve and a Spiromax balance spring. As with all Patek Philippe watches, the movement also bears the Patek Philippe seal.
Although the watch is clad in a white-gold case, this Patek Philippe Ref. 6007G represents one of the sportier watches within the Calatrava family. The carbon embossed pattern offers quite a dynamic aesthetic yet still maintains the watchmaking savoire faire associated with a brand that sits near the pinnacle of the horology industry. Also, how can we resist the chance to add some vibrant colour into what is normally a very, let’s say, monochromatic collection?
UPDATE (28/8/23): The fallout of this acquisition has begun. The Watches of Switzerland group lost a quarter of its value on Friday morning according to a CNBC report and according to Russ Mould, investment director at stockbroker AJ Bell, investors fear that this could lead to Bucherer receiving preferential treatment over coveted Rolex stock.
All the media coverage and comments we’ve seen across the internet thus far all start with the same way “Did not see this coming.” And indeed we too woke up to this incredibly unexpected news that Rolex has decided to acquire Bucherer, the internationally renowned multi-brand retailer.
For a brand that famously doesn’t own any of its retail boutiques, you can understand why this news caught anyone who follows the industry off guard. Rolex decided to acquire the watch retailer after Jörg Bucherer, in the absence of direct descendants, decided to sell his company’s business.
Bucherer currently operates in Switzerland, the United States, England, Germany, France, Denmark and Austria and of their 100 point of sales worldwide, 53 distribute the Rolex brand while 48 distribute Tudor.
In Rolex’s statement, they attribute this decision to the longstanding relationship both companies have had since 1924 and their business relationship of more than 90 years. Interestingly enough, Jörg Bucherer is the last person still in activity to have known and worked with Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex.
Hans Wilsdorf, founder of Rolex circa. 1945.
Moving forward, Bucherer will keep its name and continue to run independently and its integration into Rolex will only take effect once the competition authorities have approved the takeover transaction. Jörg Bucherer will remain as honorary president of the Bucherer group.
SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA – AUGUST 20: Spain players lift the trophy and celebrate during the FIFA Women’s World Cup Australia & New Zealand 2023 Final match between Spain and England at Stadium Australia on August 20, 2023 in Sydney, Australia. (Photo by Marc Atkins/Getty Images,)
Hublot has long proclaimed that they LOVE FOOTBALL! And this extends not only to the world of men’s football but the women’s categories as well. This fact is further evidenced as Hublot was the official timekeeper for the recently concluded FIFA Women’s World Cup, and their quick announcement of congratulations to the country who lifted the championship trophy – Spain
For the ninth edition of this global competition, Hublot provided all 107 match officials, 94 of whom were women with a special edition Hublot Big Bang e. This high-powered luxury smartwatch fuses the brand’s flagship design using cutting-edge material, with the latest in wearable technology. In addition to all smartwatch functions, the special edition watch for the match officials was also equipped with unique functions to aid them including monitoring yellow cards and added time at the end of the game.
As an added cherry on top of this incredible partnership, Hublot had a number of Ambassadors and Friends of the Brand taking part in this prestigious competition. This includes: from the Spanish team, and double Ballon d’Or winner, Alexia Putellas; Ada Hegerberg of Norway; and Alex Morgan from the USA.
Alexia Putellas, played as a midfielder for the Spanish national team during the 2023 FIFA Women’s World Cup.
“What a tournament! On behalf of everyone at Hublot, I would like to extend my congratulations to Spain and to our friend Alexia Putellas for your amazing victory, and to our partner FIFA for hosting a fantastic tournament. You inspired the world! For the past month, it has been a source of enormous pride to serve as the FIFA Women’s World Cup2023 TM Official Timekeeper and to see the Big Bang e on the wrists of match officials and the Big Bang-shaped fourth official board. Hublot is the first Swiss watch company in football and it is a great joy to continue our support of the beautiful game around the world, and in particular to see the women’s game grow and grow. We’re with you every second of the way. Hublot loves football!” Comments Ricardo Guadalupe, CEO of Hublot.
As far as dive watches go, the Captain Cook from Rado often gets neglected when enthusiasts gather to discuss references from the past. After all, the watch was only made for about six years in the 1960s before it was discontinued. And it had no significant ties with military forces, as all the most prominent dive watches at the time seemed to have. All it had however is the name of the intrepid explorer James Cook on its dial accompanied by Rado’s famed anchor. But, as we will soon find out, Cook’s adventurous spirit and his embracing of the importance of science would create a ripple effect that extends to the present and bring Rado’s humble dive watch back into the folds of conversation among enthusiasts.
Since the rebirth of the Captain Cook collection in 2017, Rado has updated each successive generation with their latest watchmaking technologies. And as the collection grew, so did the boldness of its ideas. For 2023, the latest Captain Cook High Tech Ceramic Skeleton has emerged out of the sea to showcase not only Rado’s technical side of watchmaking but also reinforce its status as a Master of Materials.
New World Exploration
To understand the Captain Cook at present, we must first dive into its past. Although the watches of Rado look as futuristic as watches come, its history actually dates back to 1917 when brothers Fritz, Ernst and Werner Schlup converted part of their parent’s home into the base of operations for Schlup & Co. After the Second World War, they had become one of the largest producers of watch movements, all the while upholding the ‘Swiss-made’ quality standard. It was around then that they decided it was time to launch their own brand and thus, the name Rado was born, based on the Esperanto word for wheel.
As with all mechanical watches at the time, innovation was synonymous with necessity. And the first Rado-branded watch, the Golden Horse, was created in 1957 based on a water-resistant case construction. In 1962 the Rado Diastar was created with an ultra-resistant hard metal, earning it the title of the world’s first scratchproof watch. It was in this same year that the first Captain Cook debuted.
An advertisement featuring the name Rado circa 1952.
In the 1960s there was a steady uptake of recreational diving thanks to the invention of scuba (self-contained underwater breathing apparatus) gear like the Aqua-Lung by French engineer, Émile Gagnan, and the world-renowned explorer, Jacques Cousteau. To tap into this highly lucrative market, Rado created their own version of a dive watch, offering a timepiece with a greater level of water resistance and a timing bezel that was essential for divers to keep track of their dive times.
Back then, the accuracy of the timekeepers and the reliability of these bezels could mean the difference between life and death as it was used to keep track of decompression timers. Decompression is the act of taking breaks at specific depths so that the body has time to naturally dissipate the nitrogen that has seeped into the tissue from breathing the compressed air within the scuba tanks. If the timing is not adhered to, the nitrogen will expand as the outside pressure decreases creating bubbles in the joints, lungs, and/or spinal column which depending on the severity can be fatal.
Rado christened their dive watch collection after the legendary British explorer James Cook. Captain Cook was most known for his expeditions to the Pacific Oceans where he circumnavigated and mapped New Zealand. Cook was also revered for his navigational prowess relying on astronomy, and accurate marine chronometers to determine his position on the globe. Additionally, he often carried several scientists on his voyages allowing them to make significant observations and discoveries like the cataloguing of over 3,000 plant species during his first voyage in 1768 and on his second voyage, the artist William Hodges produced notable landscape paintings of Tahiti and Easter Islands.
The New Expedition
One of the hallmarks of a great design is that no matter how many years go by, its form and function remain relevant in the present. If you look at the first Rado Captain Cook launched in 1962, everything was designed to be both functional and beautiful at the same time. The hour markers contrast against the background, the hands are large and obvious, and even the Rado insignia freely rotates not just as an aesthetic choice but back then, it was also used as an indicator to tell you when the watch needed to be serviced. Additionally, some other identifying traits of the Rado Captain Cook collection are the bezel that is sloped inwards and the box-style crystal.
After the Captain Cook was discontinued in 1968 it spent a good 40-plus years in hibernation and in 2017, in a move that took most of the watch industry completely by surprise, they relaunched a new Captain Cook that looked almost identical to its predecessor. All of the design cues of the original were still there, updated with modern movements and a better-constructed case of course. But the one thing that really caught the attention of aficionados was the fact that Rado decided to keep the sizing at 37mm.
A small dive watch was nothing special in 1962 but in 2017, when trends were leaning towards oversized chunky watches (especially so in the dive watch category), the creation of a small and svelte option was one that found its niche set of customers. This smaller size was also ahead of the game at the time as only now other brands have started to gravitate towards reducing the size of their watch cases.
Master of Materials
Extremely high temperatures are needed to create the glossy finish on Rado’s ceramic cases.
With Rado’s reputation for manipulating the ultra-hard, scratchproof, corrosion-resistant, lightweight and hypoallergenic ceramic material, it would only make sense for them to incorporate this highly technical material into the Captain Cook collection. Various forms of ceramics have been around for thousands of years, however, unlike its rudimentary forms like vases and bowls, the ceramics used in Rado’s manufactures are lightyears away in terms of technology.
Rado’s High-Tech Ceramic material starts out as ultra-fine zirconium oxide powder with a grain size of approximately 0.001mm, 50 times smaller than the diameter of human hair. After it is mixed with a binding agent, it is injected into a mould at 1,000 bars of pressure. Next, it enters a sintering process where it goes into an incredibly high-temperature oven of 1450°C and over many hours, this ceramic fully hardens. Then, specially designed diamond tools are used to rework the end product to achieve the strict tolerances needed for the case to ensure the watch can be assembled perfectly and to keep the integrity of the water resistance rating. Interestingly the high-tech ceramic, when it was first created, was only available in black. It was only in 1993 that coloured ceramics became available.
Rado has been constantly perfecting and updating their ceramic manipulation technologies for more than 35 years now and they have brought the craft to a point where they are now able to precisely control the outcome of the materials down to the precise shade of colour or even a specific texture on the surface. A case in point is their plasma finishing where the high-tech ceramic is subjected to yet another high-temperature process to give the material a permanent metallic shade without the use of any metallic content.
Past Meets Present
Since the return of the Captain Cook collection in 2017, many variants have been added to its repertoire with each successive year. But this year, their latest reference seems to have taken all the brand’s savoire faire and combined it into a single, all-encompassing watch – the Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton.
Let’s start with the case. From afar, the watch exudes all the design cues that identify it as a Captain Cook, the case shape, the sloping bezel, the arrow hour hand, and the box-style crystal are all there. However, it is only upon closer inspection that all the nuances of this fantastic timepiece become obvious. Firstly, the case is made entirely of plasma high-tech ceramic and its famed properties of extreme surface resistance. This makes it perfect for a dive watch that is usually worn in, shall we say, more adventurous situations. Additionally, the bezel and bracelet are also made from the same robust material.
For this reference, Rado chose a deep anthracite colour to represent the virile, primal forces of the mineral world. Various shades and finishing techniques are added to the case components to give the watch additional character. The matte finish of the monobloc case is contrasted visually with the circular brushed finish on the bezel insert. Even the bracelet offers centre links of a lighter shade and a glossy mirror finish for a more elegant look. Lastly, to give the watch that added pop of visual detail, the bezel is made in a rose-gold colour with matching bezel indicators.
As we dive deeper into this Captain Cook reference, the transparent dial offers an unbridled look into the new and improved skeletonised movement. The Calibre R808 skeleton has been reworked with a smart new geometry and the components are shaded in different tones to give it an architectural façade. The box-shaped sapphire crystal adds to this effect by increasing the visual depth, and to give all of it an air of mystery, the crystal has a lightly smoked tint. The movement itself is highly reliable with a Nivachron hairspring, offering unparalleled anti-magnetic properties. The power reserve for the movement is 80 hours which when fully wound will let the watch sit on a dresser over the weekend and still have more than enough juice to keep going when Monday rolls along.
Global Phenomenon
In tandem with the launch of the new Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton, they have also announced a new brand ambassador – Ji Chang-Wook. The popular South Korean is already a household name in his home country and with the K-wave hitting frenzied levels across the globe, Ji Chang-Wook is a name that clearly, most around the world are also familiar with.
Having got his start in the industry when he was just 20 years old, his fame sky-rocketed when he played a Korean-American speed skater in 2010’s Smile Again, which aired every weekday during prime time for 159 episodes. Since then, his acting career has also diversified with contemporary and historical characters across a broad range of film, television and web series formats. His versatility on screen is also mirrored in his ability to perfectly play an Emperor like in the drama Empress Ki or romantic roles like in Backstreet Rookie and Lovestruck in the City in the same convincing fashion.
“I have always been interested in Swiss watches, especially in unique designs and special materials, and I’m very happy to star in my new role as Brand Ambassador for Rado. The Captain Cook is such a beautiful watch, I look forward to wearing it whenever I can.” Comments Ji Chang-Wook.
In many ways, this Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton draws parallels to the brand’s South Korean ambassador. His diversified talent in multiple roles is similar to how the watch can fit into many daily roles. Designed with dive watch aesthetics, the Captain Cook is naturally rugged and fits casual dressing styles and yet, thanks to its unique grey and gold colour combination along with the polished centre links of the Plasma High-Tech Ceramic bracelet, the watch will look just at home in a suit or dinner jacket.
Even with his fame as an actor, Ji Chang-Wook doesn’t seem to be contented in just one realm of the entertainment industry. Despite being an award-winning actor, he still finds the time to actively dip his toe in the music industry. To date, he has appeared frequently in musicals and music videos and has even recorded a number of OSTs (Original Sound Tracks). For a man that seems like he wants to do it all, the watch is a perfect accompaniment to him, because through Rado’s constant pursuit of research and development when it comes to materials, the watch is created to withstand anything and everything life can throw at it. And the best part is, it does so with the utmost amount of style.
