One of the most appealing elements of watchmaking as we know it today, is its provenance. Knowing the watch or brand we put on our wrist represents the culmination of decades and sometimes centuries of history is part of why we take the trouble to wear these relics of the past. Panerai understands this and goes to great lengths to update its watches in a way that preserves the heritage while still being able to offer the customer something novel.
The Luminor Marina Panerai Goldtech™ PAM01112 is the perfect example of what we mean by this. With Panerai’s history of making watches for the Royal Italian Navy since the 20th century, a lot of their designs revolve around functionality and robustness in keeping with military use. However, for this modern watch, you can still see a lot of these historic elements preserved although they are more likely to be worn with business suits than diving suits. Like the crown guard, for example, it is no longer necessary to offer this kind of protection for a full gold watch but it is the inclusion of this feature that sometimes makes Panerai’s offerings one of a kind.
The gold used on this watch is Panerai’s trademarked Goldtech™ which is an alloy of gold combining copper and platinum to give it a more intensely red appearance. And with the large 44mm diameter of the case, the heft of this watch on the wrist is substantial in the best possible way. For the sapphire crystal, Panerai chose corundum, which is an aluminium oxide material that is the hardest known substance after diamonds. The technology put into the watch doesn’t stop there. Despite its classical appearance, the P.9010 calibre movement powering the watch is made with modern technologies like the Glucydur balance which is made mainly of beryllium and copper allowing it to be more stable through temperature changes. With its twin barrels among the 200 components of the movement, it can also provide the watch with a power reserve of 3 days.
On the dial, the watch offers a sandwich construction with the indices perforated to reveal the white Super-LumiNova beneath. Fun fact, the Luminor name actually came from Panerai’s innovative luminous substance, launched in 1949 that was both safer than the radium-based Radiomir lume (not to be confused with the collection of the same name) and glowed brighter. The Luminor collection today is recognised for its cushion-style case, wide and flat bezel, and its crown-protecting device. Each of these watches will be paired with a blue alligator leather strap to match the dial and its trapezoidal pin buckle will also be made with Panerai Goldtech™. In keeping with the original function of the Panerai watches, the new Luminor Marina Panerai Goldtech™ PAM01112 will be water resistant up to 300m.
The success of a watch collection is its own conundrum. What we mean by that is, if a watch is selling particularly well, do you mess around with the collection to update it for the future, risking changing something that maybe may not sit well with the fans? Or do you leave it be, risking getting left behind by the industry’s progress? Thankfully, for Bell & Ross, this is not a hard question to answer.
Over the course of the last 15-plus years, their Bell & Ross BR 03 has grown to become one of the staples of the brand, even inspiring the design for newer collections within their watch family. However, whether or not to update such an icon is not even a deliberation for the brand because the fundamental value upon which the BR 03 was built, is functionality. Thus, if there is an opportunity to improve on an existing design, they are definitely going to do it. Hence, we introduce the classic, but newly updated BR 03.
CLASSIC, REDEFINED
When the BR 01 made its debut, it was massive. 46mm wide to be exact and this was predominantly to facilitate its function as a tool watch. For those with a bigger wrist circumference, a 46mm watch sits well on the wrist but for the smaller wrist sizes, it was entirely too large and would sometimes wear quite uncomfortably as well. To fix this, Bell & Ross then launched the much more wearable BR 03 a year after the BR 01 first made its debut. And so, in 2006, the BR 03 and its smaller 42mm case was launched.
42mm was and still remains a sweet spot for sporty watches which is why for more than 15 years, the BR 03 maintained its sizing. It is not too large that it rattles around the wrist when strapped on, and yet it is not too small and still maintains its presence on the wrist. Since its launching in 2006, countless versions of this BR 03 watch have been made. In the early days, most of it revolved around aeronautical themes but then in recent years, the BR 03 has gone from the skies to race on land through their collaboration with Renault, and subsequently the Alpine Formula 1 team, and to the depths of the ocean as the world’s first square dive watch. It has been made with steel, titanium, bronze, carbon and ceramic cases and has seen all manner of complications including the chronograph and GMT functions. Now, as the next step of the BR 03’s evolution, it gets a further update to its design going from 42mm to, drumroll please, 41mm.
On paper, a difference of 1mm in case width may not seem like such a big deal but what the specifications don’t show is the adjustment of the proportions which makes the watch even more visually striking. The case size is shrunk down, by 1mm and the lug width is reduced from 4.5mm to 4mm. Additionally, the bezel has been beefed up slightly as well and when you put all these elements together, the eye can immediately perceive the bolder look of the BR 03.
Another fantastic update to the BR 03 comes from something that can’t even be seen. The BR-Cal.302 movement that has been powering most of the modern BR 03 watches has now been modified so that instead of the classic 42-hour power reserve the watch now gets 12 more hours with a new 54-hour power reserve. What this means in practical terms is that if you take your watch off on a Friday evening for the weekend, on Monday, when you put it back on your wrist for the week, the time will still be accurate.
TALKING SHOP
Following the launch, or rather, relaunch of the collection, we got to sit down with Fabien de Nonancourt, the Managing Director of Bell & Ross to dig a little deeper into the redesigning of this core collection.
DG: With the debut of the Kenissi made movements with the BR X5, was there ever a consideration to put these movements into the BR03?
FN: Just as how in the BR 05 collection you have both the Sellita and the Kenissi made movements, we decided to first go with the latest Sellita movements for the BR 03 because it is a movement that fits the needs of the majority of our users. Maybe in the future we could have a version that comes with the Kenissi movement. Also the Kenissi movement is slightly thicker and with a square watch, the thickness plays a more significant role in terms of aesthetics.
DG: Talk to me about the copper dial version of the BR 03 in steel. It is a very unique look.
FN: Yes, with the copper dial version, we chose the particular finishing to reflect watchmaking traditions. The dial was made with an old technique whereby the numerals are engraved on the dial and after that it was filled with black Super-Luminova. As opposed to the other dials which the numerals are printed on. And also, we have the blued-hands, in this case, done with a PVD coating.
DG: The pricing has increased a little from the previous generation of BR 03 watches. So where did the extra cost come from?
FN: Inflation [laughs]. Unfortunately everything costs a little more to produce these days.
DG: With the shrinking of the BR 03’s case, will we see this happen to the dive watch and the chronograph as well?
FN: Not necessarily because the idea is to provide different sizing for our customers. Like if you notice with most brands, the chronograph is larger than the three hands. Even our BR 05 if you notice that our chronographs are slightly larger as well. So with this BR 03 re-design we are giving more choice to our consumers.
DG: This will effectively replace the old BR 03? when can customers expect to see this in stores?
FN: We have already stopped supplying the 42mm BR 03 to our retailers so it is gradually starting to disappear from the stores. You still can get the 42mm for a few more months but after that stock is gone, it will be 100 percent 41mm BR 03s.
Each of these watches will come with a rubber or calfskin strap depending on the model and is water resistant up to 100m. Prices begin at MYR 15,600 onwards.
If the name wasn’t already a dead giveaway that this new collection ventures into sportier territory, then I don’t know how else Parmigiani could be clearer. If you are familiar with the Parmigiani from before their current CEO, Guido Terreni’s, tenure, you will note that the Tonda PF Sport’s aesthetics seem to represent a modern revamp of their Tonda GT collection.
The most obvious difference is that the big date that was usually at the 12 o’clock position is gone, replaced by the PF insignia which is one of the identifying factors of the new Tonda PF collection. There is still a date, but now it has been relocated to the 4 o’clock position. One small detail to note is that, unlike other date windows in this position, the numerals are actually oriented vertically instead of following the date wheel’s circumference making it palatable to the more discerning watch enthusiast.
The more nuanced changes to the collection come in the form of a new knurled bezel which now has 160 incisions rather than 225. Translated to visual terms, this means the knurling is now more obvious as compared to the Tonda GT and also to the regular Tonda PF. Inversely, the hand-guilloché ‘triangular nail’ pattern is finer than that of the Tonda GT giving the dial a seemingly smoother texture which from afar almost looks like a matte finish.
A few other stand-out features of the new Tonda PF Sport, especially for the Chronograph version, are the chronograph pushers that have been cleverly integrated into the lugs which match the smooth flowing lines of the case. And of course, internally the watch is equipped with a Calibre PF070 movement which beats at an above-average frequency of 5Hz or 36,000 vph while still being able to offer a 65-hour power reserve. It is a column wheel chronograph, which is clearly visible from the transparent caseback and the function is also engaged via a vertical clutch system.
Just to be clear, according to Parmigiani Fleurier, the Tonda PF Sport is not replacing the Tonda GT, at least for now, so both versions will be sold in tandem. The Tonda PF Sport Chronograph is available in stainless steel or 18ct rose gold and there is also a Tonda PF Sport Automatic if you prefer.
With this year being the 70th anniversary of Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms and what that collection means to the watch industry, it is easy to overlook yet another of Blancpain’s novelties for the year, the Ladybird. On the surface, these new and colourful offerings may seem like just another collection that has been given some new colours along with a dazzling array of diamonds to entice female fans. In truth, however, Blancpain’s Ladybird collection is not simply adapted from a man’s watch with the size reduced. Instead, it was created specifically with all the watchmaking savoire faire of this centuries-old brand to cater to the women of today.
If you look back at the brand’s history, women have always been important to Blancpain. In 1933, the manufacture was the first Swiss watchmaking company to have a female CEO and owner after Betty Fiechter purchased the firm. A few years before that, the firm had already created one of the world’s first automatic wristwatches for women under the name Rolls. This paved the way for further innovation in watchmaking for women and in 1956 when the Ladybird first debuted, it was equipped with the smallest round movement ever conceived at the time.
The novelties found within the latest Ladybird collection do not break any records. What is on offer instead is a vibrant range of colour variations including midnight blue, peacock green, forest green, lilac or turquoise set on a backdrop of textured mother-of-pearl on the dial. These coloured Roman numerals are also accompanied by a strap in a matching hue. Additionally, 70 diamonds are set onto the dial to accompany the small seconds and/or moon-phase indicator found there. And on the 34.9mm case, an additional 59 diamonds with a total weight of 2 carats give the watch an extremely elegant exterior.
This is not to say however that the watch is completely devoid of mechanical prowess. The Calibre 1163 movement powering the small seconds version along with the 1163L for the one with the moon phases indicator, both come packed with a relatively long four-day power reserve and a silicon balance spring. Through the transparent caseback, enthusiasts will notice that the movement is fi nished with the Côtes de Genêve decoration. Additionally, the gold oscillating weight of the self-winding mechanism offers circular open-worked patterns that mirror those found on the dial.
Only a brand like Patek Philippe can pull off making a special edition watch in steel and later offer a production model in White Gold and not diminish the value of either. Yes, we are talking about the new family of Ref. 6007G models that were launched during the Watches & Wonder Geneva show at the end of March earlier this year.
Fans of the brand will remember that back in 2020, Patek Philippe offered a 1,000-piece limited edition of the Ref. 6007A, which was created in the same dial design you see on these fantastic pieces but offered a blue dial along with a stainless-steel case, a rare occurrence within the house of Patek Philippe. This previous limited edition was created to commemorate the opening of their new PP6 production building.
The new Ref. 6007G collection, however, are production models and come in a more modern style. Firstly, the dials have been created in an ebony black colour, that offers three different finishing styles. The least obvious is on the outer ring where there is a smooth polished surface, next the hour track offers a fine circular grain. The most obvious texture on the dial, however, is the carbon fibre-like pattern that has been embossed on the centre portion of the dial. This dial pattern was also seen on Patek Philippe’s 2017 contribution to Only Watch where this pattern was guilloché-ed onto the dial of the first and only titanium version of the Ref. 5208 (it was ultimately sold for CHF 6.2 million).
Circling back to the Ref 6007G collection, the black of the dial is contrasted nicely with accents of colour, just below the hour markers, on the minutes track, and on the second’s hand as well. There are three variations, offering blue, yellow or red colour options and each of these comes paired with a black calfskin strap, also with an embossed ‘carbon’ motif and stitching of the corresponding colour. Each of these watches will be housed in a 40mm white gold case.
Unlike the Ref. 6007A, the limited edition offered in 2020, the new variant comes with a new movement, the calibre 26-330 S C which offers a 45-hour power reserve and a Spiromax balance spring. As with all Patek Philippe watches, the movement also bears the Patek Philippe seal.
Although the watch is clad in a white-gold case, this Patek Philippe Ref. 6007G represents one of the sportier watches within the Calatrava family. The carbon embossed pattern offers quite a dynamic aesthetic yet still maintains the watchmaking savoire faire associated with a brand that sits near the pinnacle of the horology industry. Also, how can we resist the chance to add some vibrant colour into what is normally a very, let’s say, monochromatic collection?
UPDATE (28/8/23): The fallout of this acquisition has begun. The Watches of Switzerland group lost a quarter of its value on Friday morning according to a CNBC report and according to Russ Mould, investment director at stockbroker AJ Bell, investors fear that this could lead to Bucherer receiving preferential treatment over coveted Rolex stock.
All the media coverage and comments we’ve seen across the internet thus far all start with the same way “Did not see this coming.” And indeed we too woke up to this incredibly unexpected news that Rolex has decided to acquire Bucherer, the internationally renowned multi-brand retailer.
For a brand that famously doesn’t own any of its retail boutiques, you can understand why this news caught anyone who follows the industry off guard. Rolex decided to acquire the watch retailer after Jörg Bucherer, in the absence of direct descendants, decided to sell his company’s business.
Bucherer currently operates in Switzerland, the United States, England, Germany, France, Denmark and Austria and of their 100 point of sales worldwide, 53 distribute the Rolex brand while 48 distribute Tudor.
In Rolex’s statement, they attribute this decision to the longstanding relationship both companies have had since 1924 and their business relationship of more than 90 years. Interestingly enough, Jörg Bucherer is the last person still in activity to have known and worked with Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex.
Hans Wilsdorf, founder of Rolex circa. 1945.
Moving forward, Bucherer will keep its name and continue to run independently and its integration into Rolex will only take effect once the competition authorities have approved the takeover transaction. Jörg Bucherer will remain as honorary president of the Bucherer group.
SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA – AUGUST 20: Spain players lift the trophy and celebrate during the FIFA Women’s World Cup Australia & New Zealand 2023 Final match between Spain and England at Stadium Australia on August 20, 2023 in Sydney, Australia. (Photo by Marc Atkins/Getty Images,)
Hublot has long proclaimed that they LOVE FOOTBALL! And this extends not only to the world of men’s football but the women’s categories as well. This fact is further evidenced as Hublot was the official timekeeper for the recently concluded FIFA Women’s World Cup, and their quick announcement of congratulations to the country who lifted the championship trophy – Spain
For the ninth edition of this global competition, Hublot provided all 107 match officials, 94 of whom were women with a special edition Hublot Big Bang e. This high-powered luxury smartwatch fuses the brand’s flagship design using cutting-edge material, with the latest in wearable technology. In addition to all smartwatch functions, the special edition watch for the match officials was also equipped with unique functions to aid them including monitoring yellow cards and added time at the end of the game.
As an added cherry on top of this incredible partnership, Hublot had a number of Ambassadors and Friends of the Brand taking part in this prestigious competition. This includes: from the Spanish team, and double Ballon d’Or winner, Alexia Putellas; Ada Hegerberg of Norway; and Alex Morgan from the USA.
Alexia Putellas, played as a midfielder for the Spanish national team during the 2023 FIFA Women’s World Cup.
“What a tournament! On behalf of everyone at Hublot, I would like to extend my congratulations to Spain and to our friend Alexia Putellas for your amazing victory, and to our partner FIFA for hosting a fantastic tournament. You inspired the world! For the past month, it has been a source of enormous pride to serve as the FIFA Women’s World Cup2023 TM Official Timekeeper and to see the Big Bang e on the wrists of match officials and the Big Bang-shaped fourth official board. Hublot is the first Swiss watch company in football and it is a great joy to continue our support of the beautiful game around the world, and in particular to see the women’s game grow and grow. We’re with you every second of the way. Hublot loves football!” Comments Ricardo Guadalupe, CEO of Hublot.
As far as dive watches go, the Captain Cook from Rado often gets neglected when enthusiasts gather to discuss references from the past. After all, the watch was only made for about six years in the 1960s before it was discontinued. And it had no significant ties with military forces, as all the most prominent dive watches at the time seemed to have. All it had however is the name of the intrepid explorer James Cook on its dial accompanied by Rado’s famed anchor. But, as we will soon find out, Cook’s adventurous spirit and his embracing of the importance of science would create a ripple effect that extends to the present and bring Rado’s humble dive watch back into the folds of conversation among enthusiasts.
Since the rebirth of the Captain Cook collection in 2017, Rado has updated each successive generation with their latest watchmaking technologies. And as the collection grew, so did the boldness of its ideas. For 2023, the latest Captain Cook High Tech Ceramic Skeleton has emerged out of the sea to showcase not only Rado’s technical side of watchmaking but also reinforce its status as a Master of Materials.
New World Exploration
To understand the Captain Cook at present, we must first dive into its past. Although the watches of Rado look as futuristic as watches come, its history actually dates back to 1917 when brothers Fritz, Ernst and Werner Schlup converted part of their parent’s home into the base of operations for Schlup & Co. After the Second World War, they had become one of the largest producers of watch movements, all the while upholding the ‘Swiss-made’ quality standard. It was around then that they decided it was time to launch their own brand and thus, the name Rado was born, based on the Esperanto word for wheel.
As with all mechanical watches at the time, innovation was synonymous with necessity. And the first Rado-branded watch, the Golden Horse, was created in 1957 based on a water-resistant case construction. In 1962 the Rado Diastar was created with an ultra-resistant hard metal, earning it the title of the world’s first scratchproof watch. It was in this same year that the first Captain Cook debuted.
An advertisement featuring the name Rado circa 1952.
In the 1960s there was a steady uptake of recreational diving thanks to the invention of scuba (self-contained underwater breathing apparatus) gear like the Aqua-Lung by French engineer, Émile Gagnan, and the world-renowned explorer, Jacques Cousteau. To tap into this highly lucrative market, Rado created their own version of a dive watch, offering a timepiece with a greater level of water resistance and a timing bezel that was essential for divers to keep track of their dive times.
Back then, the accuracy of the timekeepers and the reliability of these bezels could mean the difference between life and death as it was used to keep track of decompression timers. Decompression is the act of taking breaks at specific depths so that the body has time to naturally dissipate the nitrogen that has seeped into the tissue from breathing the compressed air within the scuba tanks. If the timing is not adhered to, the nitrogen will expand as the outside pressure decreases creating bubbles in the joints, lungs, and/or spinal column which depending on the severity can be fatal.
Rado christened their dive watch collection after the legendary British explorer James Cook. Captain Cook was most known for his expeditions to the Pacific Oceans where he circumnavigated and mapped New Zealand. Cook was also revered for his navigational prowess relying on astronomy, and accurate marine chronometers to determine his position on the globe. Additionally, he often carried several scientists on his voyages allowing them to make significant observations and discoveries like the cataloguing of over 3,000 plant species during his first voyage in 1768 and on his second voyage, the artist William Hodges produced notable landscape paintings of Tahiti and Easter Islands.
The New Expedition
One of the hallmarks of a great design is that no matter how many years go by, its form and function remain relevant in the present. If you look at the first Rado Captain Cook launched in 1962, everything was designed to be both functional and beautiful at the same time. The hour markers contrast against the background, the hands are large and obvious, and even the Rado insignia freely rotates not just as an aesthetic choice but back then, it was also used as an indicator to tell you when the watch needed to be serviced. Additionally, some other identifying traits of the Rado Captain Cook collection are the bezel that is sloped inwards and the box-style crystal.
After the Captain Cook was discontinued in 1968 it spent a good 40-plus years in hibernation and in 2017, in a move that took most of the watch industry completely by surprise, they relaunched a new Captain Cook that looked almost identical to its predecessor. All of the design cues of the original were still there, updated with modern movements and a better-constructed case of course. But the one thing that really caught the attention of aficionados was the fact that Rado decided to keep the sizing at 37mm.
A small dive watch was nothing special in 1962 but in 2017, when trends were leaning towards oversized chunky watches (especially so in the dive watch category), the creation of a small and svelte option was one that found its niche set of customers. This smaller size was also ahead of the game at the time as only now other brands have started to gravitate towards reducing the size of their watch cases.
Master of Materials
Extremely high temperatures are needed to create the glossy finish on Rado’s ceramic cases.
With Rado’s reputation for manipulating the ultra-hard, scratchproof, corrosion-resistant, lightweight and hypoallergenic ceramic material, it would only make sense for them to incorporate this highly technical material into the Captain Cook collection. Various forms of ceramics have been around for thousands of years, however, unlike its rudimentary forms like vases and bowls, the ceramics used in Rado’s manufactures are lightyears away in terms of technology.
Rado’s High-Tech Ceramic material starts out as ultra-fine zirconium oxide powder with a grain size of approximately 0.001mm, 50 times smaller than the diameter of human hair. After it is mixed with a binding agent, it is injected into a mould at 1,000 bars of pressure. Next, it enters a sintering process where it goes into an incredibly high-temperature oven of 1450°C and over many hours, this ceramic fully hardens. Then, specially designed diamond tools are used to rework the end product to achieve the strict tolerances needed for the case to ensure the watch can be assembled perfectly and to keep the integrity of the water resistance rating. Interestingly the high-tech ceramic, when it was first created, was only available in black. It was only in 1993 that coloured ceramics became available.
Rado has been constantly perfecting and updating their ceramic manipulation technologies for more than 35 years now and they have brought the craft to a point where they are now able to precisely control the outcome of the materials down to the precise shade of colour or even a specific texture on the surface. A case in point is their plasma finishing where the high-tech ceramic is subjected to yet another high-temperature process to give the material a permanent metallic shade without the use of any metallic content.
Past Meets Present
Since the return of the Captain Cook collection in 2017, many variants have been added to its repertoire with each successive year. But this year, their latest reference seems to have taken all the brand’s savoire faire and combined it into a single, all-encompassing watch – the Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton.
Let’s start with the case. From afar, the watch exudes all the design cues that identify it as a Captain Cook, the case shape, the sloping bezel, the arrow hour hand, and the box-style crystal are all there. However, it is only upon closer inspection that all the nuances of this fantastic timepiece become obvious. Firstly, the case is made entirely of plasma high-tech ceramic and its famed properties of extreme surface resistance. This makes it perfect for a dive watch that is usually worn in, shall we say, more adventurous situations. Additionally, the bezel and bracelet are also made from the same robust material.
For this reference, Rado chose a deep anthracite colour to represent the virile, primal forces of the mineral world. Various shades and finishing techniques are added to the case components to give the watch additional character. The matte finish of the monobloc case is contrasted visually with the circular brushed finish on the bezel insert. Even the bracelet offers centre links of a lighter shade and a glossy mirror finish for a more elegant look. Lastly, to give the watch that added pop of visual detail, the bezel is made in a rose-gold colour with matching bezel indicators.
As we dive deeper into this Captain Cook reference, the transparent dial offers an unbridled look into the new and improved skeletonised movement. The Calibre R808 skeleton has been reworked with a smart new geometry and the components are shaded in different tones to give it an architectural façade. The box-shaped sapphire crystal adds to this effect by increasing the visual depth, and to give all of it an air of mystery, the crystal has a lightly smoked tint. The movement itself is highly reliable with a Nivachron hairspring, offering unparalleled anti-magnetic properties. The power reserve for the movement is 80 hours which when fully wound will let the watch sit on a dresser over the weekend and still have more than enough juice to keep going when Monday rolls along.
Global Phenomenon
In tandem with the launch of the new Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton, they have also announced a new brand ambassador – Ji Chang-Wook. The popular South Korean is already a household name in his home country and with the K-wave hitting frenzied levels across the globe, Ji Chang-Wook is a name that clearly, most around the world are also familiar with.
Having got his start in the industry when he was just 20 years old, his fame sky-rocketed when he played a Korean-American speed skater in 2010’s Smile Again, which aired every weekday during prime time for 159 episodes. Since then, his acting career has also diversified with contemporary and historical characters across a broad range of film, television and web series formats. His versatility on screen is also mirrored in his ability to perfectly play an Emperor like in the drama Empress Ki or romantic roles like in Backstreet Rookie and Lovestruck in the City in the same convincing fashion.
“I have always been interested in Swiss watches, especially in unique designs and special materials, and I’m very happy to star in my new role as Brand Ambassador for Rado. The Captain Cook is such a beautiful watch, I look forward to wearing it whenever I can.” Comments Ji Chang-Wook.
In many ways, this Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton draws parallels to the brand’s South Korean ambassador. His diversified talent in multiple roles is similar to how the watch can fit into many daily roles. Designed with dive watch aesthetics, the Captain Cook is naturally rugged and fits casual dressing styles and yet, thanks to its unique grey and gold colour combination along with the polished centre links of the Plasma High-Tech Ceramic bracelet, the watch will look just at home in a suit or dinner jacket.
Even with his fame as an actor, Ji Chang-Wook doesn’t seem to be contented in just one realm of the entertainment industry. Despite being an award-winning actor, he still finds the time to actively dip his toe in the music industry. To date, he has appeared frequently in musicals and music videos and has even recorded a number of OSTs (Original Sound Tracks). For a man that seems like he wants to do it all, the watch is a perfect accompaniment to him, because through Rado’s constant pursuit of research and development when it comes to materials, the watch is created to withstand anything and everything life can throw at it. And the best part is, it does so with the utmost amount of style.
When you think of the iconic Luminox watch, you are probably imagining something with a black case and bezel made from a carbon compound material, tritium gas tubes glowing on the dial and most definitely something quite chunky on the wrist. With the latest iteration of their Pacific Diver Series however, Luminox seems to be taking a new approach with the collection as the new 3120M series comes packed with new dial colours and more importantly a sub 40mm case diameter.
The Pacific Diver series from Luminox distinguishes itself by offering a combination of a stainless steel case with a bezel made of the brand’s proprietary Carbonox material. Since its launch and even with the introduction of a chronograph version last year, the Pacific Diver collection has always remained closer to the 44mm mark. This year, however, perhaps in keeping with the trend that sees a reduction in the size of watches, the new Pacific Diver Ripple 3120M series offers a very wearable case size of a mere 39mm.
These new dive watches will be available in a total of six variations, which includes the choice of a white, black, or blue dial. Expanding the collection’s versatility, Luminox has even added an option featuring a mother-of-pearl dial and this, in combination with the slightly smaller case may convert new female fans.
When the Pacific Diver Chronograph was introduced in 2022, it came with a refreshing variety of colourful rubber straps. Unfortunately the lug width for these watches does not match the smaller 3120M series, so you will not have the same amount of variety but Luminox has created new colours specifically for this collection, which include Vivid Pink, Coastal Blue, Navy Blue, and Fresh White. Additionally, there is also a very stylish stainless steel jubilee-style bracelet to give the watch a more dressed-up look.
The new Pacific Diver Ripple 3120M series of watches are all powered by a Swiss quartz movement, have sapphire crystals and are water-resistant to 200m. And as always, they also feature the Luminox Light Technology, which utilises tritium gas tubes to provide illumination for up to 25 years.
It is no secret that luxury watch brands have been taking keen interest in jewellery for years as part of their learning curve to design horological sculptures. The idea is to look beyond pure timekeeping and precision instruments to develop extraordinary jewels of time; this of course has nothing to do with the jewels in mechanical calibres!
Isabelle Cerboneschi, a renowned historian of fashion, watchmaking and jewellery had this to say when asked about the watch brand that paved the way in terms of applying ornamentation in its collections, “If we’re talking about the last two centuries, I would definitely say Vacheron Constantin. The company, which was founded in 1755, joined forces with the Parisian jeweller Ferdinand Verger (which later changed to the name Verger Frères in 1921) as early as 1879…until 1938. Together, they created jewellery that told time according to the style and taste of that period, including some Art Nouveau and Art Deco marvels. They had nothing to envy the pieces of the great jewellers of Place Vendôme in Paris. The Verger Company had registered numerous patents in the field of jewellery and watchmaking, and Vacheron Constantin benefited from these awe-inspiring inventions. For instance, in the company’s archives, there is a watch with flaps that opens mechanically to reveal the time.”
Vacheron Constantin 1972
Jewellery and watchmaking in Geneva, the home of Vacheron Constantin, became interlinked when the austere Christian reformer John Calvin ran the show in the city back in the 16th century. He banned jewellery, and thus the craftspeople all switched to watchmaking; it is a well-known story in the city, and shaped the destiny of watchmaking in Switzerland, as did the Reformation in general. Swiss watchmakers later developed a reputation for crafting highly ornate pieces, in stark contrast with their English and American counterparts.
When it comes to giving an ornamental look to watches, Abraham-Louis Breguet was also very influential. “Breguet was really at the cutting edge of making watches people carried, particularly European royalty and nobility, and some of those early pieces had amazing ornamentation done on them. Of course, he didn’t start it. In fact, it started long before him in the preceding centuries, but he helped make it more fashionable,” said Eric Wind, a seasoned vintage watch expert.
EVOLUTION OF WATCH SHAPES INSPIRED BY JEWELLERY
Jewellery houses have also played a pioneering role in the origin of wristwatches that never fall short of appealing to the senses, and the one that alwayd comes to mind is Cartier. One only needs to think of the Santos to understand why, and then add Edmond Jaeger’s contribution and it all makes sense. Always regarded as the jeweller of kings and the king of jewellers, Cartier remains a triumphant player in both haute joaillerie and haute horlogerie. We do not need to see the novelties at Watches and Wonders Geneva to tell you that there will be some sublime “jewels of time,” on display.
The principle of embracing liberal yet enchanting designs of its own has always been at the core of Cartier’s ethos even when it comes to creating highend timepieces in varying shapes thanks to its unparalleled expertise in jewellery. We will just name-drop a few for good measure: the Tank (in all its various forms), Tortue, the mind-bending Crash, Cloche, Ballon Bleu, and Baignoire—We could go on at length but Cartier will always deliver some sort of new sort of watch that will surprise (like the recent Pebble, seen below).
A good part of the success of these watch shapes also has to do with their attractive design features such as Roman numerals, blued hands (sword hands or Breguet hands), and rail-road minute tracks on the dials. No other brand has had as much success with shaped watches as Cartier, and it all has to do with both how the watches look as well as how they wear. When gems are in the picture, Cartier takes it to another level.
“I think Cartier has often been the maker of the best “jewellery watches” in that they sometimes have incredible stones incorporated and other times it’s just the watch standing on its own merit,” Wind said. The gem-set version of the Astrotourbillon (literally a favourite of more than one WOW editor) bears this out. Wind continues: “The worlds of jewellery and watches are inextricably connected as watches really evolved out of jewellery centuries ago; pieces of the watch such as the case and dial were mostly made by jewellers for early timepieces. Often the craftsmen and designers for watches started their careers in jewellery. Gérald Genta, probably the most famous watch designer of all time, started life as a jewellery designer before pivoting to watches and his work very much reflects that approach. Gilbert Albert, who famously designed so many interesting Patek Philippe watches, especially the iconic Asymetrie wristwatch series in the 1960s, also was a jewellery designer. At the end of the day, jewellery and watches are both about shapes and craftsmanship or skill.”
Cartier Tank Française
Gilbert’s contribution to the world of jewelled watches can be gauged precisely from the Patek Philippe Ref. 3295, part of the “Tutti Frutti collection”. Most importantly, it won the 1960 Prix de la Ville Genève (which today is the GPHG) jewellery watch award.
“Not surprisingly, the real difference came to light when brands like Piaget, Omega, Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet called on brilliant designers like Gerald Genta or the lesser known but no less brilliant Jean Claudie-Gueit, who worked for big brands like Baume & Mercier, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Rolex, for whom he particularly invented the rainbow setting. But above all, he worked for Piaget, creating emblematic models such as the Polo or other more creative watches, including articulated cuffs or stone dials all under the aegis of Yves Piaget,” Cerboneschi said.
So in terms of shapes especially asymmetrical ones from trapezoidal to elliptical, if one looks at the vintage models of Patek Philippe (the Gondolo collection), Vacheron Constantin (its 1972 asymmetric model, tonneau and cushion-shaped designs), Piaget, Omega and Audemars Piguet, all these watch brands borrowed from the rich history of jewellery aesthetics. All in all, Vacheron Constantin was having its own heyday in designing playful watch designs from 1910 to 1930 like a shutter watch from the 1930s and the ref. 10970 from 1917. As Christian Selmoni, heritage and style director at Vacheron Constantin said, “When it comes to the Maison still releasing limited editions of early shaped watches from its archives, the best example that comes to mind is the American 1921, which is one of the most recognizable designs of the brand with its crown at 1 o’clock and its inclined dial in a cushion-shaped case. Such models from the past demonstrate Vacheron Constantin’s endless creativity and bold attitude already adopted by it at the beginning of the 20th century.”
Shedding further light on how jewellery has influenced the technical aspect of watchmakers or taken it to another level, Wind pointed out, “There have always been new innovations in the world of jewellery, including advancements in the art of stone setting and materials used. So watchmakers will often adopt these approaches in order to advance their own designs.”
Another famous Swiss watchmaker with a history of crafting astonishing watches in bold shapes is Corum with its Golden Bridge collection. Since its introduction in 1980, the brand has been able to occupy a particular place in the hearts of watch lovers. “All the iterations of the Golden Bridge collection created thus far have been extremely successful in garnering a great deal of popularity in the watch collecting world thanks to (watchmaker) Vincent Calabrese’s vision of inventing a timepiece without a dial yet revealing the movement in its entirety,” said Marc Walti, head of product marketing and communications at Corum.
Corum Golden Bridge models
While the baguette movement can fit into any shape, Walti explained, “We will focus mainly on the iconic tonneau shape in the future and play more with “métiers d’art” to better highlight this movement. Having a collection such as this which remains in demand is a boon and the wish of many a watch brand. Timelessness is a highly sought-after value in this sector.”
MEN’S PENCHANT FOR WATCHES IN DIFFERENT COUNTRIES
“Nevertheless, there will always be male customers obsessed with purchasing luxury bling jewellery watches like the famous footballer Cristiano Ronaldo whose passion for ostentatious jewelled timepieces is well-documented. But as time goes by, the demand for traditional watches fitted with extreme complications as well as studded with precious gemstones and diamonds in a certain way will also grow bigger,” Cerboneschi said.
Jacob & Co. The Caviar Tourbillon Tsavorites
It is no wonder that Ronaldo’s preference for classy watches adorned with gemstones is no less prominent. He is often spotted wearing one of Breguet double tourbillon models such as its Classique ‘Grande Complication’ 5349PT model. Since the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia is now his new homeland after he signed the contract with the country’s Al Nassr football club, he made it more special by wearing the most lavish and expensive timepiece “The Caviar Tourbillon Tsavorites” created by Jacob & Co for his arrival here in January this year. The case of this 47mm watch comes adorned with 224 baguette tsavorites on the surface, with 130 baguette tsavorites used on the dial and 18 on the buckle.
The popularity of jewelled watches certainly owes a lot of credit to men and women alike as they both love such luxury pieces. “I think of the Rolex Rainbow Daytona series as the perfect example where men and women both want to own this watch,” Wind said.
In the midst of the current heat wave in Malaysia, it is only fitting that we announce that Summer is here! The Summer 2023 issue of World of Watches Malaysia that is.
Yes, by now Watches & Wonders Geneva has come and gone and no doubt many of you have already seen an ample amount of coverage in digital form of the novelties coming out of the fair. However, as the hype, excitement and chaos dissipate, we report with more clarity what we think are the highlights and trends to come out of this important industry event. And for those who want to relive or experience missed moments, our Editors from Singapore and Thailand speak candidly about what went on within those hallowed halls.
On the cover is perhaps an unorthodox choice – Rado’s Captain Cook – however upon closer inspection, we think you will be just as surprised as we were to learn about the long and storied history of the brand along with all the technological innovation that went into this new skeletonised option.
Speaking of technological innovation, we also take a closer look at the material world. That is to say, the materials that Manufactures, Swiss or otherwise, are using to make their watch cases stand out from the pack. There are cases made from sapphire, ceramics, carbon and even a magical type of gold…
Pick up an issue of World of Watches Malaysia today, you won’t be disappointed. Or alternatively, if you can’t find a bookstore, join our subscription service and we’ll send the magazine to you. Oh, there is a digital version of the magazine on Magzster as well if you enjoy reading that way.
The Galápagos Islands and their waters are amongst the most biodiverse regions in the world. The environment is also home to an unusually large number of endemic species, due to the remote location in the Pacific Ocean, some 900 km from continental Ecuador’s west coast. This unique set of qualities has made the Galápagos an especially important focus of ocean conservation efforts.
Indeed, much has been accomplished. The Ecuadorian government, for instance, established the Galápagos Marine Reserve to protect the islands’ waters in 1998, then expanded the reserve’s coverage by approximately 50 per cent in 2021 to its present size of 133,000 km2. Ocean conservation non-profit Mission Blue, founded by the famed marine biologist and Rolex Testimonee Sylvia Earle, also designated the waters of the Galápagos as one of its first “Hope Spots” in 2010.
Sylvia Earle, Rolex Testimonee and founder of Mission Blue, in front of the DeepSea submersible. In 2022, she led an expedition to the Galápagos Islands Hope Spot.
Far from being a one and done process, ocean conservation is an ongoing endeavour. To that end, Earle led a multi-institutional team of scientists on a two-week research expedition across the Galápagos Islands Hope Spot in 2022. Conducted with Rolex’s support, the Mission Blue Galápagos expedition worked to assess the impact of the existing protections that are in place, as well as to identify the challenges and opportunities for future conservation efforts.
IMPACT STUDY
A Galápagos shark patrols the reefs of the Galápagos Islands Hope Spot.
Earle, a Rolex Testimonee since 1982, is a veteran marine biologist and oceanographer with over six decades of experience in these fields. Her first visit to the Galápagos took place in 1966, when she discovered its waters teeming with life and remarked that they were “the sharkiest, fishiest place” she had ever been. Since then, the wider awareness of the volcanic archipelago has grown exponentially. Unfortunately, this has resulted in greater pressures on the delicate ecosystems of the Galápagos, whether from pollution, invasive species, or demands on its resources. Protecting the region is thus more critical than ever before.
A large part of the expedition was devoted to revealing the hidden and forgotten diversity beneath the waves to provide a baseline value of ecosystem health that can be tracked by future surveys. To do so, the expedition employed a range of cutting-edge technologies such as underwater video systems, which allowed the expedition team to collect population data for little-studied animals such as endemic slipper lobsters.
Alex Hearn, Mission Blue co-Champion for the Galápagos Islands Hope Spot and Professor of Marine Biology at Universidad San Francisco de Quito, retrieves and replaces a receiver that has been detecting tagged marine animals passing by.
To complement the above, eDNA (environmental DNA) analysis was also used. The technique involves isolating and sequencing DNA found in the environment being studied, in this case via seawater samples. The crucial advantage here is that data on organisms that elude visual study can still be gathered. Unsurprisingly, eDNA analysis did turn up interesting results. “Most of our sequences are not matching any public database,” shared Diana Pazmiño, a researcher with the Galápagos Science Center. “[This] means that not many things have been sequenced from the Galápagos, or there are things that are new to science that we have not identified yet.”
This finding paralleled an earlier expedition undertaken by Earle and Salome Buglass of the Charles Darwin Foundation, which took place the year before. During that study, a new species of kelp was discovered deep beneath the water’s surface. The two scientists followed up on the discovery on the 2022 expedition by exploring the Galápagos’ depths in the DeepSee submersible, where they uncovered lush hidden forests of kelp. There are now tentative theories that these kelp forests are critical in maintaining the region’s biodiversity. “Kelp forests in other parts of the world have a critical role in supporting biodiversity,” explained Buglass, “and maybe we have found that piece of the puzzle that explains why biodiversity and biomass are so amazingly rich in the Galápagos.”
Sylvia Earle and Salome Buglass descend in the DeepSee submersible in search of deep sea kelp that may be new to science, during the Mission Blue Galápagos expedition in 2022.
Various other broad-based studies were also undertaken during the 2022 expedition, from mapping the foraging grounds of penguin colonies to measuring microplastic levels. The expedition team continued ongoing long-term research into the transoceanic movements of marine animals too by, for example, capturing location tags of sharks that have come from as far away as the Gulf of Mexico. This is particularly important, as it supports the view that international cooperation is vital to ocean conservation work – as well as the need to expand marine protections further. In 2021, Ecuador, Panama, Colombia, and Costa Rica jointly announced the creation of the Eastern Tropical Pacific Marine Corridor, which expanded and linked the four countries’ protected waters to create a fishing-free “swimway” for migratory sharks, turtles, rays and whales. The expedition’s findings have demonstrated the need for more such swimways – globally, no less – to protect marine wildlife, and the need to think on a larger scale beyond national borders.
A MODEL TO FOLLOW
In many ways, the Galápagos Islands Hope Spot is a bellwether for ocean conservancy as a whole. On one level, the attention and support that the islands receive mean that the region has, arguably, the greatest chance of success in this area. As Earle herself has succinctly asked, “If you can’t protect the Galápagos Islands, what part of the planet can you protect?”
On another level, the work that is being done in the region also has the potential to serve as the model for conservancy projects elsewhere to follow. Alex Hearn, an ecologist from the Galápagos Science Center who convened the team of scientists for the expedition, believes that “if we can get it right here [in the Galápagos], that is a blueprint for getting it right across the planet.” From best practices in monitoring the markers of an ecosystem’s health to cross-disciplinary approaches for reversing human impacts on the environment, the Galápagos Islands Hope Spot is serving as a pioneer in the field, with lessons learned from its management percolating to other Hope Spots – and beyond.
THE BIGGER PICTURE
Argo, a state-of-the-art research vessel, is moored off of Wolf Island during the Mission Blue Galápagos expedition in 2022, led by legendary oceanographer Sylvia Earle, Rolex Testimonee and founder of Mission Blue.
Mission Blue will, of course, continue to establish Hope Spots around the world to protect oceanic regions of significant value. Since its founding in 2009 by Earle, the organisation has already created a network of 150 Hope Spots covering nearly 58 million km2 of the oceans. The goal is to extend this protection to 30 per cent of the oceans by 2030.
Rolex’s support for Mission Blue is part of its overall commitment to protecting the planet. This is an extension of its work in championing exploration – both for the sake of discovery and to push the limits of human endeavour. The brand subsumed its efforts in this area under the Perpetual Planet Initiative in 2019, and currently counts Mission Blue and the National Geographic Society as its major partners. As part of its expanding portfolio of partnerships under the initiative, Rolex also supports diverse projects such as Steve Boyes’s the Great Spine of Africa expeditions, which explores the continent’s major river basins, as well as Coral Gardeners’s work to transplant resilient corals to rejuvenate reefs.
Rolex’s commitment to supporting the individuals and organisations using science to understand and overcome our environmental challenges is long-term. In much the same way, this parallels the manufacture’s approach to watchmaking, which sees it taking the long view on things with a focus on constant improvements in every possible area. Given time, the right resources, and a little luck, the challenges that our planet faces may be overcome yet.
The watches of Bell & Ross may be Swiss Made but the heart and soul of the brand are very much entrenched in France. Therefore, it makes perfect sense that for an aviation partnership, in 2021, they chose the Patrouille de France, an elite unit of the French Air and Space Force. This year marks the 70th anniversary of this prestigious aerobatic display team that has built its reputation on the prowess of its pilots.
To celebrate this momentous milestone with Patrouille de France, Bell & Ross launched a limited edition of their BR 03-92 which offers a dial in a mesmerising shade of blue, a colour that mirrors the team’s Alpha Jet. The beautiful dial is combined with subtle elements of colour in the form of the yellow Patrouille de France insignia, a beautiful logo to indicate its 70th anniversary and the colours of the French flag represented on a ring around the dial. This vibrancy is balanced nicely with the white Arabic numerals and hand tips to ensure the utmost legibility. It is, after all, designed with the input of the pilots.
The 42mm width of the square BR 03-92 case is made of the same high-tech ceramic found on previous models and it has also been given a matte black coating to ensure the case maintains a utilitarian look. On the back side, the designers have taken special care to fit in all five aircraft that have flown since the creation of the Patrouille de France in 1953. This includes the Thunderjet which was flown during the team’s debut, the Alphajet which has been in service since 1981, and the Ouragan, Mystère IV and Fouga Magister which have helped forge their legacy. These planes, built not for their destructive capabilities but rather for agility and manoeuvrability in the skies, have very interesting silhouettes adding to the uniqueness of the caseback.
The BR 03-92 Patrouille de France 70th Anniversary is powered by the solid BR-CAL 302 movement and the entire watch is water resistant up to 100 metres. Whether you are a Francophile, aerophile or just looking for a new shade of dial colour, this new launch from Bell & Ross will appeal to at least one, if not all the mentioned demographics. And at only 999 pieces available worldwide, you can be sure that it will quickly ‘fly’ off the shelf.
MOVEMENT BR-CAL.302 automatic CASE 42mm in micro-blasted ceramic STRAP blue calfskin and ultra-resilient black synthetic canvas fabric PRICE MYR 17,600
As far as complications go, the tourbillon is one that often sits high up on any collector’s list. And for good reason. Its story is deeply entrenched within the history of watchmaking and more importantly it is fantastically theatrical to look at. In 2021, Franck Muller decided that it was time to let the tourbillon shine, putting it right smack in the centre of a brand new Curvex CX case making it the first ever central tourbillon in a tonneau shape.
On paper, it sounds like a simple thing to do: moving the tourbillon which is normally found at the 6 o’clock position to the centre of the dial. But, in reality, it took them over a year of research and development to finally be able to displace what was originally in the middle of a movement without disrupting the watch’s ability to indicate time.
When it was first launched, the Grand Central Tourbillon was designed with traditional aesthetics that included a beautiful guilloche dial. For their latest update to this collection, however, the new Grand Central Tourbillon Flash explores a more edgy and vibrant perspective by taking on an aesthetic that seems light-years ahead of its predecessor.
In keeping with the aesthetics of the watch, the movement is housed in a futuristic carbon case, with a bezel of blackened titanium while the 36mm case size makes it extremely wearable regardless of gender. The micro-blasted matte black dial of the watch is nicely contrasted by bright, neon indices in a choice of blazing orange, neon green or electric blue. This pop of colour also extends to the cage of the 60-second central tourbillon so as the minute ticks by, the striking neon arrow orbits around the centre, almost like the nucleus of an electron.
The extra curved profile of the new Curvex CX case draws further attention to the central tourbillon by affording greater visibility to the complication and the surrounding indices which are also elevated above the dial. Compounding this effect is the curved sapphire crystal which extends all the way to the lugs and was only possible after perfecting a special technique of fixing the glass at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock.
The calibre MVT FM CX 36T-CTR movement powering the watch offers a sunray-brushed micro-rotor and a 4-day power reserve. The watch will be paired with a nylon strap that has a calf leather underside.
It’s official, Audemars Piguet has just announced that Ilaria Resta will officially be taking over the reins from outgoing CEO François-Henry Bennahmias starting 1st January 2024. The new appointment follows Bennahmias’ announcement last year that he would be departing the brand by the end of 2023.
Bennahmias has been with Audemars Piguet for nearly 30 years and has been at the helm for 10 of those years. Under his stewardship, the brand has grown immensely. Sources indicate that when he first took over as interim CEO in 2012, the brand was doing CHF 600 million in revenue with around 30,000 pieces sold. The most recent figure was CHF 2 billion in revenue for 2022.
The appointment of Resta is also incredibly interesting as she is now one of the very few female CEOs leading a major watch brand and also, she comes from a completely different industry. She brings with her 26 years of experience, most recently as the President of Global Perfumery & Ingredients at Firmenich, a large privately-owned perfume and taste company. If the mixed reactions stemming from the launch of Code 11.59 is any indication, there will probably be a lot of opinions on her appointment as CEO as well.
The latest Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet in stainless steel
According to Audemars Piguet, Bennahmias will remain fully engaged with the brand until the end of 2023 to ensure a “seamless and orderly transition of leadership with the next CEO.”
“[Ms Resta’s] proven record of delivering results through a clear strategic thinking based on deep consumer insights will keep AP’s legacy relevant for generations to come and ensure long lasting growth. Ilaria’s belief in the empowerment of teams and her accomplishments as an inspirational leader in corporate sustainability fully align with Audemars Piguet’s long-standing values as an independent family-owned company.” Alessandro Bogliolo, Chairman of Audemars Piguet.
