Author Archives: Yan Joon Wing

H. Moser × MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon shows that Solidarity is the bulwark in adversity

Unprecedented times bring unprecedented collaborations, two of the industry’s most iconoclastic watchmakers – H. Moser and MB&F have joined forces, giving form to the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon. Combining the exceptional flair of MB&F’s watchmaking dramatics and H. Moser’s exquisite horological purity, the H. Moser × MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon bringing together the talents of modern watchmaking’s most progressive ateliers.

Within the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon, two Maisons co-sign – that is to put their names – on a pair of superlative creations, blending the primary DNA of both house styles into one watch. For fans of H. Moser, they will see the signature elements of Moser’s vaunted fume dials and leaf hands first, for connoisseur’s of Maximilian Busser, they’re recognise the highfalutin theatrics of mechanical art but nevertheless, in these trying times, the H. Moser × MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon is an emblem of friendship between two men against a backdrop of adversity and a triumph of shared values.

H. Moser × MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon shows that Solidarity is the bulwark in adversity

H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F are both independent Swiss watchmakers, each run by two passionate personalities and Edouard Meylan and Maximilian Büsser are delighted that this collaborative project has seen the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon exemplify two iconic schools of expertise and two distinct sets of DNA yet blended them together in a mutually enriching manner. Suffice it to say, the  H. Moser × MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon has achieved results far exceeding their expectations.

You have to remember that I only took over at H Moser seven years ago; this was after the collaboration began in terms of hairsprings. Max and I know each other for like 10 years, and when I took over at H Moser, he thought it was crazy because the watches were nice but a bit boring, and the company was bleeding money. He didn’t understand what I wanted to do with it. At that time, our brand was a bit dusty, and MB&F was flying high. It took awhile for us to get to that level, which we had to be at or we would have been overpowered by the MB&F brand identity. When the trust and respect got to the same level, then the time was right. Today, we are the biggest of the truly independent brands.  – CEO Edouard Meylan on why it took so long to collaborate

Again, for long time watch journalists, it is hard to say which takes the fore: is it the artistry which grabs the heart first? Or is it the nigh operatic ballet of the cylindrical tourbillon which quickens the pulse? Indeed, the tourbillon equipped with cylindrical balance spring is occasionally  practiced by the highest, most storied masters in Swiss watchmaking – associated with the likes of the watchmaker’s watchmaker.

The visual and geometric potency of a cylindrical balance spring…

Precision Engineering AG – a sister company of H. Moser & Cie, has for the last 10 years, provided MB&F’s balance springs. Hence, it is not altogether surprising (but still unexpected given the fierce rivalries in the industry), that the brands have chosen to deepen their mutual relationship in a co-signed H. Moser × MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon, creating a Performance Arts piece – the sophisticated elegance of a H. Moser and the three dimensional mechanical theatre of an MB&F, at its heart, the cylindrical balance spring.

Invented in the 18th century, the cylindrical balance spring is so named for the corkscrew construct – rising perpendicularly around the upper rod of the balance staff. Commonly used in historical marine chronometers, it offers the advantage of developing concentrically, and therefore geometrically, since it works perfectly along the axis of its pivots. This gives it a significant advantage over the flat balance spring, whose opposite ends tend to exert forces on the pivots, despite the Philips or Breguet terminal curves which were specifically developed to partially correct the non-concentric opening of the balance spring. Fitted with a Breguet overcoil at both attachment points, the cylindrical balance spring reduces pivot friction and greatly improves isochronism. Due to its specific shape, the cylindrical balance spring is far more difficult to produce and takes ten times longer to make than a traditional balance spring.

Mixed Genes, Coherent Design: The visual flair of the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon

There was one risk with this watch and that is if clients ask “oh, is that an MB&F watch?” That is why it was important to have the logo. We decided on sapphire for the subdial to keep the emphasis on the mechanics, and maintain the minimalism that Moser is known for. Had we chosen a very crazy machine from MB&F rather the LM Flying T, it might have been too much; the same for MB&F, if (Max) had chosen the Swiss Alp watch. – Eduoard Meylan on why the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon bears the brand name unlike its usual references.

Maximilian Büsser says: “When I called Edouard to tell him that I wanted to collaborate on a creation, I mentioned that I really liked the double balance – spring, the Moser fumé dials and the Concept watch series. Edouard immediately told me that he would let me borrow these features, but on condition that he could also reinterpret one of my machines. After an initial moment of surprise, I gave it some thought. Being 50% Indian and 50% Swiss, I am firmly convinced that mixing DNA creates interesting results, so why not try the experiment in watchmaking? I therefore agreed and suggested the FlyingT model, which is particularly dear to my heart.”

H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F have thus jointly created two models, available in several versions and issued in 15-piece limited series. This number references the 15th anniversary of MB&F as well as honouring the 15th anniversary of the relaunch of H. Moser & Cie.

Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon Price & Specs

Movement Automatic HMC 810 three- dimensional Manufacture calibre with 72 hours power reserve
Case 42 mm stainless steel with 30 metres water resistance
Strap Leather
Price S$120,100

 

Inside Montalba Architects’ Hillside Residence of Pasadena, California

Perched along the hillsides and adjacent mountains of Pasadena, California, the LR2 residence, designed by award-winning practice, Montalba architects – who are revered for their innovative urban design related projects, embracing a humanistic approach that considers not only a client’s needs and site considerations, but also the cultural and economic environment, to create solutions that are contextual, conceptual and visionary in their intent, effect and appeal.

Inside Montalba Architects’ Hillside Residence of Pasadena, California

Spanning 4,200-square-foot, the residence features multiple distinct living volumes and programs, installed to directly appease the client’s desire to retain a significant portion of the existing flat pad between adjacent slopes. As a result, LR2 incorporates various volumes stacked to create a rotated series of rectangular masses abutting the hillside, each with its own take on indoor and outdoor spaces.

With guest suites, a home office, gym, and theatre screening room, as well as abundant outdoor spaces, including, outdoor breezeways, porches, courtyards, covered walkways, an immense rooftop deck extend, and natural chaparral, the LR2 residence boasts uninterrupted picturesque views of the surrounding hills and valley, plus an unique arrival experience incorporating the natural creek just beyond front door, an abundance of natural light, and a light-filled interior of soft wood and bright white finishes. Completed in 2018, the LR2 is considered a single-family residential project, and one of other fifteen cutting-edge Montalba concepts.

By Julia Roxan

 

Augmented Reality at Retail Destinations shows the Future of Luxury Consumption

Almost four months into the COVID-19 pandemic, businesses across international markets face the fact that whatever “new normal” is, it remains uncertain. For the fashion industry, stopped orders and supply chain disruptions have resulted in high street brand losses and some bankruptcies.

With the lockdowns and threats of a second virus wave, customer travel both domestic and overseas are at an impasse — whether it’s weekend shopping at your local mall or destination shopping — brands need to discover new strategies to attract and retain homebound shoppers. As countries move into latter stages of the pandemic, so too has media consumption increased across all in-home channels: web browsing is up 70%, followed by 63% increase in  (traditional) TV viewing increasing while social media engagement has rocketed by 61%.

Overseas travel constraints present a particular problem for luxury brands targeting the Chinese market, in which a large proportion of luxury spending occurs overseas. In 2018, roughly 70% of Chinese luxury consumption took place at travel destinations according to McKinsey’s China Luxury Report 2019.

Phase 1 of New Normal: “Going Dark”

According to data intelligence consultancy Kantar, many brands and manufacturers are considering ‘going dark’ in order to save costs with the reasoning that since consumers are tightening their belts, consumption is at its lowest. However, Kantar believes that a six-month absence from TV is going to result in a 39% reduction in complete brand communication consciousness, possibly delaying recovery in the post-pandemic entire world. Having said that, a potential new out-growth of nascent augmented and virtual technology have noticed a recent shot in the arm since brands experiment with new channels beyond conventional advertisements in an effort to re-discover lost ground ceded to the coronavirus pandemic.

Ms. Bell Beh started Buzz AR, while studying Technology and Law at UC Berkeley, and recently, she’s been the pioneer in implementing this emerging technology at Singapore’s premier luxury shopping destinations with participation from the Singapore Tourism Board.

Augmented Reality at Retail Destinations shows the Future of Luxury Consumption

Retail shopping has been enduring a reckoning over the last 10 years and the coronavirus pandemic only served to quicken the growing trend towards digitisation of luxury shopping experiences: Stores will be like websites and websites will be like stores. Several emerging technologies will play a predominant role in shaping the way that people experience shopping. Augmented Reality (AR) is just one of those technologies, but it’s one that will take a central point. Why? Because if you’re trapped at home or reluctant to enter high traffic locales with strangers (whose potential viral loads are unknown, you’re going to want brand flagships to bring themselves to you. Given the ubiquity of high-speed internet and the highest household computing device penetration rates in modern history, the powerful combination of Augmented Reality (AR), Virtual Reality (VR), and Artificial Intelligence (AI) will make the future of luxury shopping a reality.

Phase 2 of New Normal: Post Pandemic Retail blurs Offline with Online

Sears and Toys-R-Us were the two greatest profile retail failures of 2018, but since the pandemic struck we’ve seen giants like JC Penny and Macy’s follow suit. In Southeast Asia, Singapore’s retail sales have fallen for the seventh consecutive month in August, compared to a year ago. Against a backdrop of e-commerce growth with Amazon Prime at Singapore, Lazada, and Shopee, spending a cool $1 million for Cristiano Ronaldo to star in a 10-second advertising spot, conventional retailers and direct-to-consumer manufacturers will have to adapt to an increasingly complex retail environment. With this being the greatest recession since the Great Depression, brands and businesses will need to rethink the use of their shopfronts, while utilising technology and data in smart ways.

 

How bricks and mortar can survive and thrive

Some of Singapore’s pre-eminent luxury shopping destinations are showing a potential way forward by adopting the emergent technology provided by Ms. Beh. Buzz AR is implementing AR wayfinding, a process of introducing fun, unique elements of guiding footfall in one of Singapore’s labyrinthine luxury shopping complexes. Whether it’s a simple matter of Mario or a game of Mario Kart guiding you to interesting shopping destinations, Buzz AR is but one element of a growing body of apps that have seen brands adopting. Most recently the absence of runway shows have driven designers like Marc Jacobs, Sandy Liang and Valentino to showcase their latest styles in Animal Crossing, the recent Nintendo smash hit game.

Direct-to-consumer brands understand they’re not only selling a product, they are adding value to their customers’ lives.

Even post-pandemic, AR and VR technology like the kind that retailers and retails points are adopting through Buzz AR also raises to the next level other physical retail elements, further blurring the line between offline and online interaction – this truly is the futuristic vision where shopping is a matter of 24-hour convenience independent of operating hours and physical dimensions (visiting one is a matter of choice, and no consumer has ever been unhappy about more choices):

  1. Point of purchase technology: “where brick and mortar shops create unique, one of a kind experiences for shoppers,” states CEO of MVP Interactive. “Whether conveniences are subtle like additional lounge furniture or more sophisticated like focal point of sale technology, the encounter will need to feel unique and distinctive to the shop.
  2. increase engagement digitally: retailers have to perfect the craft of participating with their audience digitally — creating seamless shopping experiences, believing mobile-first (like their viewers ), building a sense of community and mastering content development to foster loyalty. The focus now is about bringing the new experiences to life in the physical universe.
  3. Through the use of AR Billboards: a true shopping experience is created engaging and relevant through User-Centric advertisements, an improvement over the one-dimensional content-centric advertisements, where consumers are continuously bombarded with exactly what they do not wish to see.

While some Singapore luxury malls are implementing AR Wayfinding during the initial rollout, the next stage includes the use of AR Billboards and this is where Ms. Beh truly believes the future of luxury retail lies. Think of it as Silicon Valley ‘Big Data’ meets luxury retail: in a universe of large data, new digital channels such as AR Billboard collects (1) user-level information; (2) location-based data from consenting users. This data set further allows these luxury retailers to project overlay data onto consumer mobile devices that just flash what users want to see if they enter a shopping mall, even in the restroom waiting areas or storefront, even since they navigate from point A to B.

As a result, the ads are still immersive, interesting and targeted. It increases footfall, user experience while simultaneously understanding customers’ spending behaviour and preferences. Once users launch partner’s mobile apps, like Trip Advisor, the user can navigate while catching codes/ flash links on the augmented overlay billboard.

Gucci, an early adopter of Augmented Reality

Kering Group flagship, Gucci has been persistent with updates and new features to drive direct e-commerce. Since launching version 6.0 two months ago, the app has already had five updates, the latest being the unveiling of its new Augmented Reality feature. Upon going into the interface, users can view exactly what Gucci’s new shoes, eyewear, hats, and lipsticks appear like on themselves through AR try-ons, which they can also use to explore decorating their fresh workspace/home with Gucci furniture. Additionally, users can also play arcade games and view a gallery of places that have cultural connection to the fashion house.

That said, the luxury industry is steeped in centuries of tradition and technology remains a blind side as East Asia, in particular China, continues to drive the industry both as its growth engine and as its second-largest group of consumers (in terms of the East Asian region). Since 2017, big e-commerce players like Alibaba have made AR and VR in-roads into a “new retail era,” where online and offline merchants learn from each other and provide a brand new shopping experience for consumers.

Augmented reality would also improve the process of buying and selling homes — luxury realtor Sotheby’s International Realty is bringing AR into its international listings. Working in partnership with VR/AR developer Rooomy, Sotheby’s Curate is a virtual staging app that enables an empty home to be filled with the prospective buyer’s choice of interior decor and furniture, then viewed in real-time 3D.

Technology enablers and the in-store encounter

The most innovative brands are already using technology to enrich and curate the customer experience in-store, and those which haven’t, will be playing catch-up. Now, brands can display product information and inventory on tablets, and can use their understanding of customers to customise the encounter in-store, by way of example, taking away the requirement for physically processing payment.

Using touchscreens to discover more about a particular product, AR and VR tech like those of Beh’s Buzz will take away the awkwardness of the sales experience where a customer can be potentially perceived as difficult if they happen to be fickle or unsure of what they really want. An integrated purchasing experience as well as the pairing augmented reality experiences means that consumers get the benefit of not feeling the pressure of taking up a sales person’s time with the added benefit of browsing and trying (albeit virtually) multiple product categories. While self-checkout kiosks will eventually be commonplace in regular retail, with cellular point of purchase choices similar to what is used at Apple stores, the last step of a consumer’s journey in luxury retail could be simply either to have a white-gloved service deliver to your home or to summon a sales associate to wrap up your item to go.

“Luxury brands will survive based on their clientele and those who will fail are ones that don’t reinvest dollars into experience inside their stores or ones in which their products can be found heavily discounted online.”

What’s Going to separate Successful merchants from the Pack

  • Early adopters will win this game: The brands which realise this soonest will benefit the most; those who choose to ignore it will face the same fate that travel agents faced when airlines started selling tickets online. Most major retail brands seem to be aware of the imminent transition and are already studying how and when to innovate. As Bridget Dolan, head of Sephora Innovation Labs explained, “we want to stay ahead of our customers in digital technology — but not too far.”
  • User-centric information: Successful retailers will be the individuals who can comprehend the varying requirements and expectations of their clients — whether in the digital or physical world. Leveraging consumer-centric data and putting customer experience at the heart of decision-making is the key to creating powerful, omni-channel (instead of cross-device) journeys. In addition, he stresses the use of data. “For the mid to high end of retail that the expectations from store experiences are high, and it’s not just about the usage of technology, but also how it becomes seamlessly incorporated to the shopper’s journey. One which can begin in any channel and culminate in a different. Having the capability to cross correlate the shopper across all accessible interaction stations, and supplying store staff with the relevant data and actionable information that might assist them influence a purchaser greater, is what’s going to set them up for success.

 “A significant portion of the population of developed countries, and eventually all countries, will have AR experiences every day, almost like eating three meals a day.” – Tim Cook, Apple CEO

Engagement now, Revenue over time.

AR brings content which is designed to keep our attention spans for longer periods through visually immersive articles and conversational talking points. .AR advertisements also drive earnings directly. AR lenses are developing in a way that allow consumers plant and picture products in their immediate surroundings. These can be demonstrable and extremely engaging advertisement experiences on Facebook and Snapchat, such as attempting on fashion accessories.

While Loewe en Casa is running an ongoing series of online workshops and events through Instagram Live. The project, which concentrates on arts and crafts, including artistic collaborators, and Loewe Foundation Craft Prize alumni is still very much a passive experience. Using Facebook’s Camera Effects stage, Michael Kors built a campaign which lets users jump out of a News Feed ad to some front-facing camera activation which almost strives on sunglasses. Nike spotlighted a new shoe release by allowing users put it virtually in their space then walk around (and purchase ) the shoe.

 

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Topic II of #PradaPossibleConversations is “Love in the Time of Coronavirus,” a candid discussion between artist/filmmaker #FrancescoVezzoli and philosopher #EmanueleCoccia that took place on #InstagramLive on April 21, at 6pm CET. Now on IGTV. The conversation comes ahead of Vezzoli’s newly announced @FondazionePrada project, “Love Stories,” an exploration of emotion through the language of social media.⠀ “Love in the Time of Coronavirus” is part of a series of closely considered conversations that focus on the cultural impacts of our quickly changing world.⠀ With each conversation #Prada will donate to @UNESCO – an organization whose work during the #covid19 pandemic focuses on over 1.5 billion students worldwide who have been affected by school closure.⠀ ⠀ ⠀ Discover more via link in bio. ⠀ ⠀ ⠀ #StaySafe #StayHome

A post shared by Prada (@prada) on

That said, Loewe’s project provides customers a rare look into the artists’ studios and skills, Loewe finally wishes to demonstrate how far it cares about craftsmanship and the people behind it and that still is a real emotional connection provided by a virtual experience of live demonstrations revealing ancient Galician basketry and weaving techniques by the likes of Chilean jewellery artist Rita Soto, and Spanish artist Álvaro Leiro.

Aside from doing workshops and tours like Loewe, Prada has initiated a string of digital discussions connecting great minds in style, art, architecture, theatre, and thought to converse with one another, creating a romantic user-experience much like a Zoom call.

Foot Locker along with Jordan Brand similarly invented an AR effort to run on Snapchat. Utilising Snapchat’s “Advertisement to AR” format, users up on a related story to show a lens that is branded. In this case, the lens featured an AR animation to get a new shoe release, and ability to purchase the shoe.

This makes AR a “complete funnel” advertisement format such as brand awareness and direct-purchases. This attracts increasingly data-hungry and ROI-oriented advertisers, and breaks down AR adoption barriers. The Singapore luxury retail scene is simply ahead of the curve.

 

The Covid-19 Pandemic’s Long-Term Effects on Future Tourist Experiences

Wiping out an estimated 100.8 million travel and tourism-related jobs worldwide, the ongoing Covid-19 pandemic has effectively brought the industry to an abrupt standstill, currently accounting for a mere 10% of global GDP. Hitting the Asian Pacific region the hardest with an approximate 63.4 million jobs lost, many cling to fleeting hopes of a potential vaccine capable of diminishing this fatal disease. However, while the outbreak may inevitably end, innumerable reports have suggested the tourism industry may take up to 10 months, or longer depending on each individual nation’s restrictive measures, to recover from the heaviest economic blow yet.

The Covid-19 Pandemic’s Long-Term Effects on Future Tourist Experiences

Chambre Séparées

Beyond disrupting the international flow of medical supplies and other essential needs, the disastrous pandemic may change the way civilians work, live, and play, long after the dust settles. Whether it’s short getaways reachable by car and on foot or opting for an increasingly isolated accommodation, much of our newly acquired social distancing habits are here for the long-haul.

The Hialeah Park Casino

With everything from restaurants, cinemas, casinos and the Las Vegas Strip shuttered up for lockdown, businesses aren’t left with any other choice but to adapt their operations, facilities and marketing strategies to a demographic of highly unnerved and health-conscious consumers.

Unveiling the first-ever ‘COVID-Free’ poker table at the Hialeah Park Casino just outside of Miami, the Floridian gambling den prepares itself to provide unparalleled entertainment on top of a whole new set of stringent demands for safety and sanitation. Gone are the days of crowding nine to eleven players around a single regular-sized table, the casino’s latest set-up will officially accommodate no more than four players and one dealer at a time, ensuring appropriate physical distance between each participant, with the added security of a transparent barrier attached to each table.

Following similar ques, is the UNESCO protected Maldivian site known as, the Beach Bubble Tents of Seaside Finolhu resort. Supporting one of the largest groups of coral reefs in the Indian Ocean, the overall resort houses up to 125 private villas located on stilts above the lagoon or shoreside. Fully equipped with its own shower and WC, wooden floor, and a double bed clad in the finest bed linen, the Beach Bubble experience promises exclusive beach barbecue sessions, a personal butler and mouth-watering breakfasts on the beach. Conceptualized by ‘Eye in The Sky’, the tent features high-tech polyester fabric, UV-protection, and climate control settings – promising more than uninterrupted views of the vast sky and shoreline.

Perhaps not built specifically in light of Covid-19, the family-owned Panorama Glass Lodge in Reykjavík, Iceland is awe-inspiringly reminiscent of the intimate glass-and-greenhouse-style Chambre Séparées dining experience. Featuring fully furnished cabins to suit your every vibe, the lodge is revered for its exquisite craftsmanship and stylish design details such as traditional horns, cement tiles and warm wood – plus picturesque views of the twinkling night sky, glazed facades, and modern facilities which include a kitchenette, ginormous bedding, bathroom, living area, and an outdoor hot tub. The Panorama Glass Lodge is truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience, and one of the few accommodations equipped with the facilities which allow guests to catch the northern lights on full display without leaving the comfort of their bed.

By Julia Roxan

 

Montblanc new 1858 Automatic 24H and Monopusher Chronograph

For 2020, Montblanc is presenting two new 1858 watches, the Automatic 24H and a limited edition Monopusher Chronograph. Inspired by Minerva’s heritage, the new 1858 Automatic 24H and new Montblanc Monopusher Chronograph lean heavier into their vintage aesthetics. Featuring new coloured dials and bronze cases, Montblanc’s 1858 collection of watches is enriched by a 24-hour complication – an uncommon method of time display given our faster paced 21st-century lifestyles but currently, oddly prescient given that almost all economic activity has ground to a standstill with life reverting to a much slower pace given the global lockdowns.

Classic 19th-century design codes and vintage elements also celebrate that portentous confluence of Minerva pocket watches and a nascent industry of railroad wristwatches, which makes the new Montblanc 1858 Automatic 24H a fun journey down nostalgia lane: Guess this year is the year to party like its 1858.

Montblanc new 1858 Automatic 24H and Monopusher Chronograph

We can thank the ancient Egyptians for our 24 hour day. Over a millennia ago, pioneering Egyptian astronomers initially divided the daylight into ten partitions measured by sundials, since only the ten daytime hours would render the shadow of a sundial meaningful, the additional two hours for the morning and evening twilights, brought the total to 24 with astronmers marking the passing of the hours in the night by observing the overhead rotation of the stars grouped together in easily observable “decans” until sunrise.

With its lone hour pointer, the new Montblanc 1858 Automatic 24H recalls this ancient legacy in the context of our own pre-modern history – time indicated on a 24-hour scale using a red-coloured hand coated in SuperLumiNova accomplishes optimal legibility for both day and night readability. Furthermore, this ethos of exploration finds another voice in the compass scale, typically only a design feature but on the new Montblanc 1858 Automatic 24H, an element designed to be used.

Displayed in a beige-coloured ring running around the periphery of the dial, with compass markers at each of the cardinal points and each 15-minute interval allow you to use the new 1858 Automatic 24H as a rudimentary navigation device.

Using the new Montblanc 1858 Automatic 24H as a compass

The sun rises in the East and sets in the West, which means that if you’re in the Northern Hemisphere, the 1858 Automatic 24H  will indicate South at midday. If your watch has been correctly set, simply orienting the hour hand to point towards the sun while holding your watch face parallel to the ground will orient the cardinal points to their geographic alignment with North at 24h and South at 12h. Should you find yourself in the Southern Hemisphere, the cardinal points are inverted.

The black map of the Northern Hemisphere and its 24 meridians becomes especially attractive as night starts to fall. Made out of luminescent material, SuperLumiNova-coated dial elements of the new Montblanc 1858 Automatic 24H – the hour numerals, indexes and single hour hand take on a mysterious glow, making the timepiece distinctive even in the dark.

The automatic timepiece comes with a new 42 mm bicolour case made of stainless steel and a bezel made of a special alloy of bronze, providing a vintage aesthetic. The timepiece is completed with a special “Spirit of Mountain Exploration” engraving on the case back.

New Montblanc Monopusher Chronograph Limited Edition

Minerva’s exquisitely finished monopusher chronograph may be out of reach to most young professionals but 2020 saw Montblanc release their Salmon dial Heritage Monopusher Chronograph limited edition and another vintage-inspired Monopusher chronograph in aged bronze.

Featuring a black dial with a beige-coloured railway track, as well as two counters at three and nine o’clock, the new 2020 bronze Monopusher Chronograph Limited Edition joins its salmon dial brother, with a rougher and tumble aesthetic versus a dressier, classical countenance. The dial highlights striking colour contrasts with their historical, luminescent, cathedral hands; luminescent Arabic numerals; railway minute tracks; and the original Montblanc logo from the 1930s with its historical font and Mont Blanc Mountain motif.

The satin-finishing of Montblanc’s new bronze Monopusher chronograph for 2020 features horn edges that are polished to underline their shape. Reinforcing its vintage appeal are details like fluted crowns, typical of those found on timepieces from that period, domed sapphire crystal glass boxes and of course, beige-coloured SuperLumiNova numerals for that faux-aged look.

The 1858 Monopusher Chronograph Limited Edition features the calibre MB. 25.12 that indicates elapsed time with a central second hand and a 30-minute counter, both with white- coloured hands to create a contrast with the black dial and allow better readability of the function. The start, stop and reset can be activated through a single pusher integrated into the crown. The timepiece is available with a new matching beige-coloured NATO strap that is made in a traditional 150-year-old strap manufacture in France.

Montblanc 1858 Automatic 24H Price & Specs

Movement automatic Calibre MB 24.20 with 42 hours power reserve
Case 42mm Stainless steel with bronze bezel with 100 metres power reserve
Strap black NATO
Price On application

Also available with a stainless steel case and bracelet or with an aged, cognac- coloured calfskin strap with beige-coloured stitching Sfumato

Bronze Montblanc Monopusher Chronograph Price & Specs

Movement automatic Calibre MB 25.12 with 48 hours power reserve
Case 42mm bronze case with 100 metres power reserve
Strap NATO or “rice beads” bracelet
Price On application

 

The Katalis EV.500 Possesses an Intimidating Military Visual Appeal and The Adrenaline of a Wartime Pilot

Stepping beyond the borders of what we’ve come to know and expect, Jakarta-based design and branding studio, Katalis is known for its multidisciplinary expertise in developing projects in the field of mobility. Unveiling its latest awe-inspiring creation, the Katalis EV.500 is a custom build electric motorcycle taking cues from the once menacing world War II fighter aircrafts.

The Katalis EV.500 Possesses an Intimidating Military Visual Appeal and The Adrenaline of a Wartime Pilot

Bringing immense power without pollution, the ongoing Covid-19 pandemic has inspired more than social distancing and an increased focus on personal hygiene. In fact, the pandemic has since encouraged a great majority of Indonesians to consider lifestyle changes which include environmental conservation.

Taking three core variables into account, Katalis’ new bike prioritizes the freedom of access to mobility, happiness, and pollution-free transportation means. Constructed from a Selis Garuda electric motorcycle injected with the adrenaline of a wartime pilot, this ride is no traditional electric bike, featuring a 6061 aluminium body with intricate Japanese design detail.

Exuding an intimidating military visual appeal, the Katalis EV.500 is powered by a 500W electric motor and a 48V battery, claiming a range of up to 40 kilometres, and top speeds of over 25mph. Boasting a quick-charge battery pack, it’s is unclear if the Katalis EV.500 will ever be available to the public, however it is ideal for quick trips to school and work, and aims to inspire young people to remain innovative while in lockdown.

By Julia Roxan

 

Mediamatic Creates Serres Sépparées, A Covid-Free Outdoor Greenhouse Dining Experience

As every industry acclimatizes to an ever-changing set of social distancing rules, Amsterdam-based design conglomerate, Mediamatic, specializes in merging society, nature, biology, and art through organizing lectures and workshops, plus launching innovative developmental projects – such as Oosterdok’s latest intimate dining experience known as, Serres Sépparées.

Mediamatic Creates A COVID-Free Outdoor Greenhouse Dining Experience

The setup, which invites guests into miniature quarantine greenhouses to indulge in a four-course plant-based menu, was inspired by contamination precautions and the redesign of togetherness – in a time of mandatory 1.5-meter social distancing. Bringing a renewed form of privacy, allure and intimacy, a table for two at the Chambres Séparées is available for daily reservation from 18:00 – 20:30 or from 20:30 – 23:00, with an extra €40 charge for every additional guest, plus a similar discount for lone-diners.

 

New Hermes Arceau L’heure de la lune redefines the Moon Phase

One of the new New Hermes Arceau L’heure de la lune rendered in Blue Pearl dial which has an artistic effect reminiscent of tortoise shell. Lapis Lazuli and Blue Pearl Arceau L’heure de la lune is serially produced, priced at $33,200

The Hermes Arceau L’heure de la lune is not the maison’s new Moon Phase. It’s not even a celebration of the moon landing 51 years ago, but it’s still an important update for a novelty which was officially unveiled last year. The new Hermes Arceau L’heure de la lune redefines the Moon Phase simply because what I thought I witnessed last year was already the pinnacle accomplishment in haute horlogerie in terms of the moon phase complication.

When it was first launched in 2019, the Arceau L’heure de la lune overturned centuries of watchmaking know-how and design. The oldest watchmaking complication in the book, the visible phase of the moon’s sunlit side, is displayed according to an Earthling’s perspective. A lunar movement completes in 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes, and 2.8 seconds, that’s the mathematical component of the watchmaking equation, required to cut the gear teeth to account for and work in tandem with the gear train already computing the 24 hours of the day.

One of our favourite New Hermes Arceau L’heure de la lune with a “mossy” green Martian meteorite almost hinting at new life in a new frontier. The most expensive, it comes in limited production of two, price on application

New Hermes Arceau L’heure de la lune redefines the Moon Phase with Black Sahara meteorite, Lunar meteorite and Martian meteorite

That still leaves the design of a moon phase complication unaccounted for.  A common version typically displays two moons on a rotating disc, one of them obscured as the other is shown through a shaped semi-circle aperture at a cardinal point of the dial. It’s an ingenious solution, the shaped aperture obscures part of the moon in the shape of a waning or waxing crescent, which then translates visually as the correct phase of the lunar cycle. Over the years, other watchmakers have experimented with variations of the theme, rendering the moon phase larger or more artistically but basically executed according to those pioneering principles but what the Hermes Arceau L’heure de la lune did, was re-write the book on “how to create a moon phase complication”.

Jean Francois Mojon of Chronode, worked with Hermes in creating the Arceau L’heure de la lune. For the first time, the master of “visible” complications where one typically sees the exposed gear works behind the magic of the innovation like those of other projects he’s done (the Klepcys Tourbillon Vertical and the Opus X comes to mind), has hidden the mystery behind the Hermes Arceau L’heure de la lune. It was something that World of Watches got Mr Mojon to grudgingly admit – that he was rather surprised and pleased with the outcome because he truly believed in displaying the openwork for all to admire. But more importantly, though the mathematical principles remained the same, for once, and under the auspices of La Montres Hermes, the Hermes Arceau L’heure de la lune exhibited the correct depiction of the earth’s only natural satellite, regardless of your geographical vantage point in the world.

The New Hermes Arceau L’heure de la lune with black sahara meteorite dial is least colourful yet the most gorgeously sophisticated of them all. Price: $54,100

As fellow editor Ruckdee Chotjinda pointed out, “The moon is an astronomical, cultural and even philosophical object. For Hermès, this is the perfect pretext to talk about the skies and the realm beyond.” Its predecessor model had raised the bar with two mother of pearl moon discs set on a bed of aventurine stars, but then the new Hermes Arceau L’heure de la lune excelled in 2020 with its twin mobile counters orbit a lunar, Martian or Black Sahara meteorite dial, revealing mother-of-pearl moons in step with Mojon’s exclusive module, coupled with a Manufacture Hermès movement and this is what makes the 2020 Arceau L’heure de la lune a definitive evolutionary step up from its predecessor.

Our favourite: New 2020 Arceau L’heure de la lune executed with lunar meteorite with accompanying lacquered brown subdials – sublime execution

Meteorite inlaid with mother-of-pearl form a cosmos in which satellite dials float above hemispherical moons. The new Hermes Arceau L’heure de la lune sees the hemispheres swapped, with the south above and the north below, it’s unexpected for watchmaking (unsurprising for Hermes, makers of Le Temp Suspendu), causing observers to lose their bearings, and have heads metaphorically in the stars.

The horse, a recognisable nod to the legacy of Hermès, takes a place of prominence among the stars. At 12 o’clock, the moon is adorned by a Pegasus designed by the “dreamer-designer” Dimitri Rybaltchenko. Itself, a work of art titled: Pleine Lune (Full Moon), no other timepiece bears art within itself. The double moon of the new  Arceau L’heure de la lune eclipses a traditional aperture-type display, instead covering the entire surface of the dial. The result is a free-spirited and impertinent vision of mechanical watchmaking according to Hermès.

New 2020 Arceau L’heure de la lune Price & Specs

Movement self-winding H1837 movement with “L’heure de la lune” module and 38 hours power reserve

Case 43mm white gold case

Strap Leather

Price from US$33,200

 

Revenge Shopping becoming a trend as Ultra Rich Spend Millions on High Jewellery Online Auctions

As global trade and international economies come to a stand-still, the coronavirus pandemic is well on its way of creating the greatest recession since The Great Depression but meanwhile, in-home quarantine and social distancing is playing havoc with the ultra-wealthy (who are unfamiliar with constraints on their money and influence) – spending time in “parenting agony” while ensconced in high net worth resorts like Yellowstone Ranch or dropping $9 million on a car while doing a spot of revenge shopping like Ronaldo, Bloomberg has spoken to Sotheby’s and discovered that revenge shopping is indeed becoming a trend as the restless rich spend hundreds of thousands on jewellery and diamonds to cheer themselves up during these depressing times.

“What we’re finding is that anything of good quality is performing well, and actually better than it would have just a couple of months ago.” –  Catharine Becket, Sotheby’s “magnificent jewels” specialist speaking to Bloomberg

Revenge Shopping becoming a trend as Ultra Rich Spend Millions on High Jewellery Online Auctions out of Boredom

Auction season was beginning to look dire as auction houses cancelled their annual affairs as a result of strict social distancing measures in major financial cities like Zurich, Geneva, London and Hong Kong and for a moment there, it looked like jewellery sales for 2020 would come to an abrupt stop just as it has other economic segments. But, Antiquorum’s Geneva auction held via the internet, phone and absentee bids on March 21st, 2020 totalled US$3.34 million, with three of its top five lots belonging to Patek Philippe timepieces, so its certainly not out of the realm of possibility that consumers willing to pay top dollar for Patek Philippe watches online, sight unseen, would also find partners similarly willing to drop six figures on diamond bracelets and necklaces.

A recent Sotheby’s online sales projected to bring in $5.7 million conservatively, ended up beating estimates and bringing in $6.1 million through the four sales held across March and April. Speaking to Bloomberg, Catharine Becket, Sotheby’s “Magnificent Jewels” specialist in New York, gave a reason for the apparent growth in big-ticket luxury purchases: “Clients are sequestering at home and, generally speaking, leading relatively dreary lives. Everyone is waiting for this to be over, and I suppose knowing that a million-dollar piece of jewellery is waiting for you is a fulfilment of when things return to the new normal.”

Indeed, it shouldn’t be surprising as WWD first reported that when Hermes re-opened their flagship in Guangzhou, it led to a revenge shopping spree to a tune of $2.7 million in single-day sales. Psychologically speaking, everyone has status needs for prestige and social approval, often expressed in diverse ways, revenge spending has been merely been one manifestation, some pick up art and hobbies, others get super fit and if you have millions in the bank, you burn a little with some much needed retail therapy.

Becket was initially concerned that she wouldn’t be able to help her client to sell a 1930s high jewellery specimen – Cartier’s Tutti Frutti. A marriage of art and design, the Tutti Frutti is emblematic of heritage swagger and a symbol of old Indian Mughal Maharajah opulence. The name ‘Tutti Frutti’ wasn’t coined until the 1970s, and we don’t see true specimens very often. Town & Country estimates that we see smaller pieces like brooches every three to five years or so but the something on the scale of this magnitude is very rare and highly sought after both as a bit of high jewellery and artwork.

The 1930s-era Cartier bracelet is currently online for auction at Sotheby’s with an estimate of $600,000 to $800,000. Auction ends April 28th. Source: Sotheby’s

Sotheby’s estimates that it’ll bring in between $600,000 and $800,000, but a true benchmark of elite boredom and the lengths they would go for a bit of revenge spending would be a true test of their wallets and high net worth shopping power.

 

Ø1 Copenhagen Islands and Sydney Lilypad Villas are the new luxury for social distancing

In the first week of March, Reuters used location data gathered from smartphones to show a powerful correlation between income and social distancing. The data gathered across millions of American smartphones by Idaho-based Kochava Collective, a company that helps businesses evaluate the effectiveness of online ads, and analysed by MIT elections lab, showed that wealth was a reliable predictor of the need to commute.

By the end of the month, there was greatly reduced travel within higher-income counties and neighbourhoods which implied ability to work from home and stock up enough daily essentials to stay at home while in poorer districts, there was greater variety in travel habits, implying little choice in the matter: be it as essential workers who had to continue working or workers requiring the income and hence commuting in defiance of local restrictions.

Yellowstone Ranch where the Timberlakes (and their children) are currently residing shows the disparity between the wealthy and the less so

Is Social Distancing the New Luxury?

It is data which sees anecdotal but equally similar outcomes around the world as well:  According to Quartz, people who live in the low- or middle-income neighbourhoods of Africa or Asia’s large cities, or the slums of Latin America, depending on the informal economy. They are often sharing overcrowded quarters, and don’t have a realistic option to stand two meters (six feet) apart.

In India, the informal sector contributes half of the GDP in Asia’s third-largest economy. Bloomberg discovered that it employed more than 90% of India’s total workforce – a large proportion of the more than 8.8 million households who live in slums, earning as little as $2 a day as menial workers who don’t have the option to work from home or avoid public transportation to practice social distancing. All signs point to social distancing being the new luxury.

Copenhagen Islands: a new type of public space for the post coronavirus world

Introducing CPH-Ø1 Copenhagen Islands: a new type of public space in the Copenhagen Harbour

A new type of public space in the Copenhagen harbour colloquially referred to as Ø1 (officially named CPH-Ø1) after the Danish single-letter word for island, is fast becoming an architectural and environmental consideration in egalitarian North European states as public policy officials start to plan for life after the coronavirus.

The Copenhagen Islands are a not for profit initiative supported by Københavns Kommune, Og Havn and Den Gode Havneliv; Designed by Marshall Blecher & Studio Fokstrot, the artificial Copenhagen Islands Ø1 are constructed from sustainable and recyclable materials, offering socially distant spaces and eco-systems of their own.

First unveiled in 2018, each island of the artificial archipelago will feature its own greenery providing a self-supportive ecosystem for the insect life that will call it home. The anchor points for the Copenhagen Islands themselves are designed to eventually foster a conducive environment for seaweeds, fish and mollusks to take root. As a result, the generous scattering of green spaces in the centre of the city gives the multitudes a space of their own for a brief respite.

Initially conceived for climate-resilient urbanism, the artificial Copenhagen Islands Ø1 now offers a glimpse of a socially conscious environment in a post-coronavirus world where everyone can gather for a spot of fishing, winter bathing or BBQing, separately.

Hand built using traditional carpentry techniques by Copenhagen’s south harbour boat-builders, the 25m2 artificial Harbour islands showcase a 6m linden tree at its centre will be moved seasonally to cater for demand and events.

Floating Villa Lilypad off Sydney’s Palm Beach Takes Social Distancing to Luxurious Heights

Over in Sydney’s Palm Beach, Villa Lilypad floating just off the shoreline is a literal luxury which high net worth individuals already enjoy. Taking social distancing to a whole new level, Sydney’s Lilypad Palm Beach presents its full service floating villa for the ultimate luxuriously isolated stay. Surrounded by vast oceans and private beaches, guests are treated to world-class cuisine, access to onboard wine cellars, and day spa treatments, in a comforting space where innovative design meets traditional craftsmanship.

Offering two curated and all-inclusive luxurious isolated packages, Sydney’s Lilypad Villa guarantees guests no direct human contact throughout the duration of each stay. Ranging anywhere from 3 to 14 nights, each package includes meals prepared offsite by villa’s Head Chef, an onboard wine cellar with a selection of handpicked wines, a private self-drive tender, high-speed internet, Netflix, Foxtel, daily breakfast of banana bread and granola fresh fruit salad, an in-room mini-bar stocked with Verve Clicquot Champagne and premium beer, daily laundry and housekeeping services, daily grocery orders, a palatial king-sized bed with premium Sheridan sheets, robes and slippers, stand-up paddleboards and fishing rods, plus a booming Bose sound system.

In light of the recent and ongoing global pandemic, the Lilypad villa off Sydney’s Palm Beach has since taken the necessary steps to place shorter duration stays (such as One and Two Nights) on hold up till July 2020. This is due to the introduction of extended cleaning processes and changed guest interaction policies. Worth an estimated AUD$1,800 to $3,500 per night, the Villa Lilypad reassures guests that these short-term booking options will not only be available once again from July 1st onwards but will return alongside with the addition of other romantic escape packages, available by September 1st.

Contributed reporting by Julia Roxan Nebil

 

Powerful Women Like Jacinda Ardern and Angela Merkel Are Leading The World in Effective Coronavirus Responses

(Photo by VIEWpress/Corbis via Getty Images)

With some countries, such as the United States, choosing to combat the worsening Covid-19 by hauling insults to the mainland, others take on a significantly more diplomatic and goal-oriented approach to effectively reduce and contain the spread of this fatal pandemic.

Powerful Women Like Jacinda Ardern and Angela Merkel Are Leading The World in Effective Coronavirus Responses

Portrait of New Zealand politician Jacinda Ardern photographed by Simon Schluter

Of the many unique approaches and displays of lack-thereof leadership, German Chancellor Angela Merkel embraces science in researching antidotes, whilst Brazilian President Jair Bolsonaro outright rejects it, and Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi remains aloof, holding no regular briefings, even as the ordered lockdown leaves an innumerable mass of his people starving.

In New Zealand, 39-year-old prime minister Jacinda Ardern priorities the use of empathy in all of the nation’s crisis-management tactics. Capitalizing off clear and consistent communication with each and every civilian, Ardern’s words are simultaneously sobering and soothing, as she tries to unify the nation and urge individuals to trust in the government and the agonizing containment process.

Going beyond the traditional means, Jacinda Ardern is often found communicating important information, in the comfortable and informal settings provided by online live chatrooms such as Facebook – where she is exclusively seen dressed down in sweatshirts and at home.

Eliminating the use of overly complex jargon, Ardern offers guidance using imaginative storytelling and simplistic metaphors. In her first address prior to the nation’s lockdown, the prime minister was careful in justifying severe policies with practical examples whilst sharing her sympathies and introducing helpful concepts such as thinking of “the people [who] will be in your life consistently over this period of time” as your “bubble” and “acting” as though you already have COVID-19” toward those outsides of your bubble.

With encouraging words and realistic goals set in place for each individual to follow, Jacinda Ardern lives and breathes closeness and relatability in indirectly sharing visual evidence of her experiences juggling both her work and personal life, through each online broadcast.

Supplemented by more formal and conventional daily briefings with top officials and journalists, Jacinda Ardern is eloquent in articulating precise information without shifting blame, gaslighting or creating false narratives. Careful in managing the expectations of her audience, New Zealand’s plans to eradicate Covid-19 have long been put into action, with widespread testing, an imposed national lockdown and sufficient federal aid provided to the healthcare sector, the nation has successfully capped its fatalities at twelve individuals, thus far.

German Chancellor Angela Merkel gives a media statement on the spread of the new coronavirus (COVID-19) at the Chancellery in Berlin, Germany, March 22, 2020.

Much like the German Chancellor who has consistently appealed to her citizen’s rational reason and discipline, in an effort to slow the spread of Covid-19, Angela Merkel also utilizes empathy in conjunction with facts in all of her address, acknowledging the inherent struggle of a post-communist society in giving up freedom and emphasizing the optimistic results of stringent scientific research.

Having run Germany for over 14 years with a decade-long resume in crisis management, whether financial or social, Merkel is revered for her firm and balanced stance on domestic issues – often seen working calmly to unify the nation in a way that resonates deeply with them.

Working from home after a series of tests which ultimately deemed her Covid-19-free, Angela Merkel led Cabinet meetings in quarantine and issued informative audio messages, offering civilians widespread testing, and huge government relief packages worth 1 trillion euros, in an effort to cushion the economic blow faced by business owners.

Treating not only domestic cases, but taking in patients from its overwhelmed European counterparts, such as Italy and France, Germany’s healthcare industry remains ever ready and stable with numerous intensive care beds still available, should the nation encounter a further influx in cases.

By Julia Roxan

 

High-Tech Shine

Some watch brands are blessed with names that are well-known, even to people unfamiliar with timepieces. Others have a long and illustrious history, sharing names with major figures in history. Still others are so closely tied to sports or racing that they are virtually synonymous with their sponsorship activities. Indeed, we need not even list examples for any of the above because you probably know what we are talking about. It gets even more interesting – if a little esoteric — when a watchmaking brand is tied very closely to material innovation, as Rado is.

Chances are, if you have heard of Rado then you know that it is intricately tied to the use of ceramics in watchmaking. Those of you who take an interest in the history of watchmaking might also recall that Rado made what it called the world’s first scratchproof watch in 1962.
The DiaStar 1 was made of ultra-tough tungsten carbide, a material so difficult to work that it wore out the very tools that were used to make the cases. Crucially, the watch also introduced sapphire crystal. This marked the true beginning of the brand’s pioneering efforts in making scratch-resistant watches. The DiaStar 1 is typically included in horological milestones of the 20th century, but we are getting excited and racing ahead of ourselves.

For a brand with more than 100 years of history that is still active today, Rado is actually not that famous. To understand this, a trip through history is required, and this will take a little longer than our usual cover story jaunt. As far as WOW goes, it has been too long since we last went to the deep end of the pool with Rado watches to rediscover the history of the Lengnau-based brand. Happily, the Rado Captain Cook changed all that, thanks in part to the current demand for sports watches of all sorts. We published a little something on this last issue, and took a more leisurely look at the Captain Cook itself. To make a long story short, Rado is a brand on the up-and-up, with the Captain Cook watch the most visible symbol of its hard-won 21st century success.

A FAMILY AFFAIR

Like many Swiss watch brands, the story does not begin this century. Indeed, Rado did not even begin life under that name in 1917. In that year, brothers Fritz, Ernst and Werner Schlup founded the Schlup & Co. watch factory in Lengnau, Switzerland. Even Rado calls this a humble beginning, mostly because the atelier that housed Schlup & Co was a part of the Schlup family home.

Rado 1957 Golden Horse

An etabliseur focused on mechanical clock and watch movements, the firm did not make wristwatches under its own name. The Rado name first turns up in about 1937, with Schlup & Co. establishing a subsidiary named the Rado Watch Co. Ltd. It would take another 20 years for a watch to be created bearing the Rado name. This was the Golden Horse model of 1957, created to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the company; this was also the moment the firm itself began using the name. More specifically, it was Rado Uhren AG.

The original movement for the Golden Horse was from Adolph Schild and the water-resistant case was in steel. That water-resistance bit was timely and quite fitting, given that the “Horse” part of the name referred to a pair of seahorse appliques facing each other above the 6 o’clock position. Interestingly, Adolph Schild is today a part of ETA, which is part of the Swatch Group, as Rado is. In a way, it remains a family affair, but we digress.

ANCHORS AWAY

The Green Horse collection followed in 1958, marketed on its water resistance rating. This marked the first appearance of a now-familiar sight on Rado watches: the miniature rotating anchor below the 12 o’clock marker. Not only did this end up being the brand’s logo, but it also served to mark when any given watch was ready to be serviced. It was the first such mechanism on a wristwatch in the world. Basically, when the anchor no longer obeyed gravity but remained stationary, it was time to send the watch in for servicing. Do not worry too much if that anchor is not actually familiar to you; for those whose early experiences with Rado were watches from the 1980s, the anchor is not a factor. Today the anchor is present on all
automatic Rado watches.

The landmark DiaStar 1 from 1962

By 1959, Rado had a presence in more than 61 countries and was especially popular in Asia and the Middle East. Original wristwatches from that era are relatively easy to come by even today, showing the popularity of the brand. However, it is difficult to acquire authentic 1950s and 1960s timepieces that are in good condition, or have all their original parts according to Thomas Gronenthal, writing for the US edition of WatchTime in 2017.

Rado must have realised that its watches were seeing a lot of use because by 1962, it debuted the DiaStar 1 to cope with the unforgiving world of the modern working person. In the early days of the wristwatch, watchmakers used to bemoan the fact that their precious creations were being placed in the perfect position to receive maximum damage. No solution was found for decades, with the first tough dive watches only appearing the 1950s, to cite just one category of watches.

For Rado, the DiaStar 1 was a radical proposition, not just in the materials it deployed. Matching its toughness was an uncompromising oblong case shape, with a pronounced bezel that protected the face of the watch. It was a sign of the watches to come, and continues to influence the brand to this day. The DiaStar remains in production, currently under the name The Original, and Rado CEO Matthias Breschan confirms that it remains a strong seller for the brand, without much supporting advertising materials. Hodinkee reports that DiaStar 1 models that appear in sales today still retain the sheen they did when they debuted, so the use of superhard and effectively scratchproof materials has yielded positive results.

THE FUTURE SHAPES UP

Throughout the 1960s, Rado continued to produce watches with unusual and fashionable looks, many of which are now discontinued. These included the distinctive Manhattan and a variety of cushion-shaped watches, which could have been direct descendants of the DiaStar 1. The first of the now-famous gold-coloured DiaStar models appeared in 1972, and the Rado Dia 67 brought a new sense of minimalism to the brand with its edge-to-edge metalised sapphire crystal. In the 1980s, Rado hit a new high – now a part of the Swatch Group – with the Rado Integral watch. In 1986, the Integral watch brought high-tech ceramics to watchmaking and immediately received positive notices.

The world’s hardest watch, the V10k

It took serious work and investment to debut a new material in watchmaking for a company that produced many tens of thousands of products. No watch for Rado is simply a prospect for a select few so the integrity of any new development is key. Besides large-scale production, the other issue was just how much ceramic was in play. Not only was the case of the Integral in ceramic but so was the bracelet. Adding even more complexity here was the decision to use bi-colour ceramics – adding pigments into the mix can alter the strength of the final product, or cause production issues since it will have marginally different properties than ceramics without the colouring elements.

For the design of the watch, Rado really hit it out of the park. Generations of watch collectors came to define Rado by the way the Integral looked – black with the high shine of jewellery.
Understandably for the times, the Integral was a quartz watch through-and-through; the dimensions of the watch would require an ultrathin movement, which would have bumped up prices significantly. They still would. As it stood then, the watch was a paragon of the Swatch Group value proposition, boasting high production values for a very reasonable price.

BEYOND WHAT IS INTEGRAL

Rado definitely recognised that it had a winner on its hands; Breschan tells us that the brand even decided at that point that it would commit to including ceramic across the board, shelving any project that could not be executed in the material. A dive watch such as the Captain Cook, long out of production anyway, would have been out of the question as a result. Nevertheless, Rado knew that it could not only live on the terms of the Integral.

The Integral model of 1986 defined Rado for a generation

The next move came in 1991, with a white ceramic model called the Coupole; this was the world’s first white ceramic watch. Future innovations in ceramic were forthcoming, as detailed in our sidebar, and included contemporary Rado staples such as the Sintra and the Ceramica. It culminated in 2002 with the launch of the V10k, which took scratch-resistance to a new level. The watch was coated with a layer of artificial nanocrystalline diamond, giving it a hardness of 10,000 Vickers. It is still the world’s hardest watch.

The world’s first white ceramic watch, the Coupole

This brings us squarely (no pun intended) into the contemporary era, because Rado changed tacks soon after the V10K. The challenge now was to find ways to work with new shapes, and do the sorts of things that limited the brand in the 1980s. Plenty of other brands were now using ceramic, including many in the Swatch Group that were of an altogether different class. The adoption of high-tech ceramic by brands such as Omega and Blancpain was actually a boon for Rado, which began paying dividends in the unidirectional bezel characteristic of dive watches. Here was a game where the Captain Cook watch was already well-positioned to perform well. At the same time, Rado was already working on colour solutions for its admittedly limited palette.

O CAPTAIN MY CAPTAIN

When the vintage trend took hold at most brands after the financial crisis of 2008, Rado found it had the right watch to capture the public’s interest. When the sports watch trend really took off four years ago, the Captain Cook was no longer the right watch – it was perfect. So Rado struck in 2017 with a pitch-perfect reissue of the watch – down to the 37mm size – that surprised everyone who still saw Rado as the maker of shiny black watches. The new HyperChrome Captain Cook was an immediate hit, with collectors clamouring for a larger size. Rado not only obliged with its own oversized version at 45mm, but also with a 42mm crowd-pleaser that dropped the HyperChrome name.

Rado Captain Cook Automatic

This is the version of the Captain Cook that finds itself on the cover, and is the focal point of Rado’s press and marketing communications. To our minds, the version of this watch on a steel bracelet at $2,800 is not only the watch for the current moment but one you could easily wear as your daily beater. With Rado’s EasyClip band system, you could swap out that beads-of-rice hybrid bracelet without a second thought and go with a leather strap. No matter the version though, all models sport a unidirectional bezel in high-tech ceramic.

Do note that the two versions at 42mm with bracelet are quite different, not only in the nature of the bracelet but also in terms of price ($2,940) due to the water-resistance (200 metres vs 300 metres). There is also a limited edition (999 pieces) that comes with both fabric and bracelet as a package, priced at $3,230, and now a bronze version with only a leather strap that is not limited, priced at $3,530. Significantly, this bronze watch is the first Rado watch to ever be offered in bronze. It is also the first such watch in this material from Swatch Group, which is quite the coup for the Lengnau brand.

As far as colourways go, Rado has deployed its expertise here to offer several variants for the Captain Cook bezel, which are matched by the dials. You can discover more on that in our Cover Watch section because we have to abruptly change gears to move the spotlight to the True Thinline collection. This is where Rado’s ability to offer ceramic in different colours comes into play.

THIS MUCH IS TRUE

Finding this much colour in a Rado collection is truly unexpected, and does bring to mind the same surprise factor when the Captain Cook watch debuted. Rado goes all-in on bright hues, citing Le Corbusier’s colour theory, which is pretty gutsy for a brand with its reputation. The new True Thinline watches are a testament to both Rado’s expertise with high-tech ceramic and its design acumen. In this story, we are looking at the standard True Thinline, and the True Thinline Les Colours Le Corbusier. Briefly, there are nine watches in this brand new collection that reference 63 colours, and four of them pepper these pages. Each one of the nine models is limited to 999 pieces.

Rado True Thinline Les Couleurs Le Corbusier

Now, there is nothing new here so you need not wonder if you missed anything, if this series already grabbed your attention. It might be worth considering though if the True Thinline will have the same stature as the Captain Cook, given that both include important milestones for Rado.

To dig into it a little, the True Thinline Corbusier models exhibit a sense of playfulness and dynamism not seen elsewhere. The ultrathin 5mm cases are of the usual Rado monobloc standard, and the bracelets are highly wearable. Interestingly, Rado positions the limited edition as a unisex offering, while the standard True Thinline is meant for ladies. Looking at all of them together, it seems they could work for either gender; it really depends only on taste. The True Thinline collection is one of those recent offerings that inspired our polemic against gendered watches this issue, and this is yet another reason the entire collection might be important to take note of.

Indeed, the key take-away for watch specialists with the True Thinline Corbusier models is what they might mean for other Rado collections. Shall we expect to see an Integral in the same shade of Powerful Orange, or perhaps a bezel in Sunshine Yellow for the Captain Cook? How about a Ceramica entirely in Spectacular Ultramarine? It is certainly too early to tell, and once more is more dependant on taste than any technical constraint. If this brighter future does happen, then it will all have started with the True Thinline Les Colours Le Corbusier.

THE HARD WAY

The ceramics as used by Rado set the standard for the entire industry, so we should devote a little time to see how things work, generally speaking. It all begins with very finely powdered zirconium oxide, aluminium oxide or titanium carbide. Each grain measures only about 1/1000mm in diameter, which is about one fifth the thickness of a human hair. The powder is pressed into appropriately shaped moulds and then fired at 1,450 degrees C inside a sinter furnace. Here it condenses and emerges as scratch-resistant ceramic components, although shrinkage sometimes occurs.

Rado True Thinline Nature

The ceramic components for Rado watches are produced for it by Comadur, the Swatch Group company that also supplies the sapphire crystals for all Swatch Group brands. The colour agent added to the mix is an extremely pure oxide that is able to achieve a broad range of colours. Things are always improving on this front, with the Rado True Thinline currently reflecting the maximum of what is possible today with coloured ceramic materials for watches. The definitive shine of ceramic is a product of polishing with diamond dust. Interestingly, the tungsten carbide that Rado once used for the DiaStar 1 is recognised as an advanced ceramic material; Rado, for its part, classifies this as a ‘Hard Metal’ and introduces it as such on its website.

MASTER OF MATERIALS

Rado calls itself the Master of Materials, and it would not be able to do this if ceramics were the entire picture. Actually, there are loads of different ceramics and Rado devotes its expertise to several, in its own words.

Rado True Thinline Les Couleurs Le Corbusier

High Tech Ceramic – Equal parts art and science, high-tech ceramic has been a part of the Rado story for decades. This lightweight material is scratch-resistant and hypoallergenic, and can take on matte and polished finishes.

Plasma High Tech Ceramic – This material delivers a paradoxically warm and metallic shimmer, without any metals in the mix. It is used in the HyperChrome and DiaMaster collections. Ceramos – Unlike the other ceramics described here, this one is a 90:10 blend of metal and ceramic. It is mostly found in the DiaMaster collection.

 

The End of Baselworld as Rolex, Patek Philippe, Tudor, Chopard and Chanel Withdraw

The writing was on the wall in January 2020 as LVMH launched their inaugural Watch Week in Dubai with a rather optimistic albeit pointed opening address by Bvlgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin citing the late dates of the year’s edition of the Baselworld Watch Fair as being incongruous with product and sales cycles of their watch retailers, prompting a group decision to hold their product launches at the beginning of the year rather than so close to the middle of the year.

The end of Baselworld, long discussed and pontificated among the world’s watch journalists and subject to rumours following Swatch Group’s mass exodus, Breitling following suit, and then eventually leading to the exit of Seiko consisting of both Grand Seiko and Seiko, and Citizen Group comprised of Bulova, Citizen and Arnold & Son, already sounded the death knell for the beleaguered MCH Group AG, the organisers of Baselworld watch fair and Art Basel.

The End of Baselworld as Rolex, Patek Philippe, Tudor, Chopard and Chanel Withdraw

Today 14 April 2020, Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chanel, Chopard and Tudor announced their decision to leave the annual watch fair, ending Baselworld which has roots as far back as 1917 with the opening of the first Schweizer Mustermesse Basel which devoted a hall to watches and jewellery. The watch fair was eventually Baselworld, The Watch and Jewellery Show in 2003.

With Baselworld attendance down 22% for the 2019 edition after Swatch Group announced their shocking decision to depart, opting instead to hold their own Time to Move fair in Zurich. With Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chanel, Chopard and Tudor leaving the Messeplatz halls, they will create a new watch trade show in Geneva with the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, the organisers of the now-defunct SIHH, recently renamed Watches & Wonders Geneva.

The decision comes after a communique from Rolex Head of Investments & Logistics Hubert J. du Plessix, and current president of the exhibitors’ committee of Baselworld was leaked to watch press and later rebutted in Le Temps by Michel Loris-Melikoff, director-general for Baselworld. MCH had postponed the Baselworld watch exhibition as a result of the worsening coronavirus pandemic but refused to offer any significant refunds, opting instead to offer unpalatable options to carry forward the majority (from 70%) of the exhibition fees to the next edition and reminding exhibitors that exhibitors’ contracts do not compel it to provide any refunds.

Mr du Plessix, speaking on behalf of the small exhibitors last week on 7 April 2020, denounced MCH for hiding behind a “rigorous reading of contractual provisions to justify its position” of only making partial refunds amidst extenuating, unforeseen circumstances. Insult to injury, exhibitors received reminders in February, during the growing outbreak, to pay outstanding fees for Baselworld 2020 and later followed up with deadlines to accept partial-refund proposals by end April.

“The Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie is delighted to welcome a new salon which will strengthen the historical Watches & Wonders event in Geneva next year in early April.” – Jérôme Lambert, on behalf of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie Council

With the biggest legacy exhibitors, Rolex and Patek Philippe and Chopard departing, the latest move signals the end of Baselworld. The show will be held early April 2021 at Palexpo, will be linked to Watches & Wonders Geneva.

Other brands may also be added, and the new event will be geared predominantly towards retailers, the press and VIP customers, similar to Watches & Wonders Geneva. LUXUO and World of Watches have published the brand CEOs’ full remarks without edits:

Jean-Frédéric Dufour, Chief Executive Officer, Rolex SA, and Board Member, Montres Tudor SA, said: “We have taken part in Baselworld since 1939. Unfortunately, given the way the event has evolved and the recent decisions made by MCH Group, and in spite of the great attachment we had to this watch show, we have decided to withdraw. Following discussions initiated by Rolex, it seemed only natural to create a new event with partners that share our vision and our endless, unwavering support for the Swiss watchmaking sector. This will allow us to present our new watches in line with our needs and expectations, to join forces and better defend the interests of the industry.”

Thierry Stern, President, Patek Philippe said: “The decision to leave Baselworld was not an easy one to take for me, being the fourth generation of the Stern family to participate to this traditional yearly event. But life evolves constantly, things change and people change as well, whether it is at the level of those responsible for the watch fair organization, the brands or the clients. We constantly have to adapt ourselves, question what we do, since what was right yesterday may not necessarily be valid today!

Today Patek Philippe is not in line with Baselworld’s vision anymore, there have been too many discussions and unsolved problems, trust is no longer present.
We need to answer the legitimate needs of our retailers, the clients and the press from around the world. They have to be able to discover the new models from Swiss watchmakers each year, at one time, in one place, and this in the most professional manner possible.

That is why, following several discussions with Rolex and in agreement with other participating brands, we have decided to create, all together, a unique event in Geneva, representative of our savoir-faire.“

Frédéric Grangié, President of Chanel Watches & Fine Jewellery said: “Like its partners, CHANEL shares the same independence and the same desire to protect and promote the values, know-how, utmost quality and precision of Swiss Watchmaking. This initiative marks a key milestone in the history of CHANEL Watchmaking and is part of a long-term strategy, which began with the launch of this activity in 1987. This exhibition will allow us to present all of our new creations in an environment that meets our high-quality standards.”

Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Co-President Chopard et Cie SA said: “Chopard first exhibited at the Basel fair in 1964 with a stand of some 25 square metres. After careful consideration, our family decided to support the Rolex initiative and retire from Baselworld – a painful decision. The creation of this new watch show in Geneva, in parallel to Watches & Wonders, will allow us to better serve our watchmaking partners and our customers. Through the alliance, these grandes maisons will also be able to collaborate in promoting the values and best interests of Swiss watchmaking.”

 

On Newsstands: WOW Malaysia Spring 2020

Spring 2020 is here and once more, we have another highly anticipated issue of World of Watches Malaysia. Want to find out what we have in store for our valuable readers? Why not pick up a copy of the magazine or, even better, subscribe to receive the magazines at your convenience, especially during the Movement Control Order period? Here is a sneak peek of what’s inside.

Daniel Craig aka James Bond 007 is back with his new Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition. Read how the actor was consulted on the creation of the watch made for the most famous of field secret agents even as the launch of the new Bond movie is postponed towards the end of the year. The new watch, with its military specifications and vintage-inspired aesthetics, will remain high on the desirability list, especially with the greater anticipation for the 25th Bond movie which is coincidentally Craig’s last outing as James Bond.

2020 is a leap year and, once again, the date change at the end of February moves into focus with the extra day at the end of the shortest month of the year. In this issue, we discover how fine German watchmaking brand, A. Lange & Söhne, implements the major complication of the Perpetual Calendar in their highly complicate timepieces. In fact, since 2001, the highly respected brand has released no less than eight timepieces that feature this complication and, all but one of them implements the function in the most traditional of ways.

On a more heartwarming note, we feature Patek Philippe’s long-standing relationship with Cortina Watch as they come together to revel over sixty years of warm friendship and business connections. Find out how the two entities cooperated and stayed strong with each other through thick and thin in, our special write-up on Patek Philippe and Cortina Watch.

Of course, even in the absence of Baselworld and Watches & Wonders 2020, we persevere and continue to present the latest horological launches for the year. Rado shares the limelight with the new update on its popular vintage-styled Captain Cook that comes enhanced with 300m water resistance and in a more prominent and larger case of 42mm. Corum presents something lavish for the ladies – the Corum Golden Bridge Round 39, a watch that successfully combines traditional watchmaking values with the fine skills of haute joaillerie. Not to be left behind, Seiko honours Novak Djokovic’s achievements with a new Seiko Astron GPS Solar dedicated to the champion tennis player as its premium brand, Grand Seiko, celebrates 60 years of excellence with a range of 60th anniversary Grand Seiko limited edition watches.

Rest assured, these are just some of the many other fabulous watches that we delve into for this issue. During times of social distancing, many physical watch launches were postponed or cancelled but, definitely, we will not be lacking in any watch related information so stay with us always!

Last but not least, in our issue, we also invite you to take a journey on the L’Odyssée de Cartier even in the times when there are many travel restrictions. Discover how the legendary Maison took inspiration from the depth and the diversity of mankind’s culture and incorporated it into rare creations. Do not forget to follow the adventures on Cartier’s YouTube channel at https://www.youtube.com/Cartier

As we all stay strong and healthy in these trying times, please stay tuned into the happenings of the Malaysian watch market and do look out for the Spring 2020 issue of World of Watches at your local newsstands as well as follow us on our Instagram account @WatchWOWMy.

 

Nendo Constructs The Stairway House Like a Semi-Outdoor Greenhouse

Defined by its distinctive continuous staircase, the Stairway house in Tokyo, Japan was conceptualized by Japanese architect and founder of Nendo design studio, Oki Sato. Born in Toronto, Canada, Oki is revered for bringing a fresh and innovative perspective to cultural and traditional design.

Nendo Constructs The Stairway House Like a Semi-Outdoor Greenhouse

In his work with the Stairway house, the architect prioritizes the use of natural light, ventilation and greenery to enhance each living space. Utilizing an enormous glass façade on the southern front of the residence, Oki was able to preserve the neighbourhood’s existing persimmon tree beloved throughout every generation.

Catering directly to the needs of his clients, the residence is organized such that the most essential spaces for everyday living are situated on the first floor where a couple of matured age with numerous cats can roam freely whilst easily accessing the amenities that they need, both in-and-outdoors.

Meanwhile, the upper levels which are home to a younger couple and their child, are connected through a ‘stairway-like’ structure designed in the south yard, continuing upward into the building, penetrating the 1st through 3rd floors. Doubling up for a multitude of purposes, the connecting stairway conceals multiple functional elements such as bathrooms.

Taking on the look of a semi-outdoor greenhouse with abundant greenery as well as a sun-soaked perch for the cats to enjoy climbing, each and every section of the Stairway house presents an air of privacy despite close proximity, and serenity, where all three generations can take comfort in each other’s subtle presence.

Expanding beyond the compounds of the house, the stairway not only connects the interior spaces to one another, it reaches out into the yard and unto the city road.

By Julia Roxan

 

New 2020 Dior Grand Bal Plume draws upon the Legacy of Charles de Beistegui and his Venetian Ball of the Century

“Art and collecting were in the Beistegui family’s DNA,” says Simon de Monicault, Director of Decorative Arts at Christie’s in Paris. Indeed, the latest haute horlogerie Grand Bal Plume watch from Dior draws upon the wealth of this legacy. In creating a new series of one-of-a-kind pieces, the 2020 Dior Grand Bal collection is deeply inspired by the enchanted universe of the famed “Ball of the Century”, held by Charles de Beistegui in 1951 at the Palazzo Labia in Venice.

The eccentric French-born Spanish multi-millionaire art collector and decorator was really called Carlos but spending most of his time in France, Beistegui became better known as Charles to Parisian high society and his signature cosmopolitan flamboyance and mystique eventually earned him the nickname “The Count of Monte Cristo” for the character in Alexandre Dumas’ titular book.

New 2020 Dior Grand Bal Plume draws on Legacy of Parisian legend Charles de Beistegui and his Venetian Ball of the Century

The new 2020 Dior Grand Bal Plume timepieces draw creative muse from a surprising mix of precious and natural materials very much in the same vein of the man of utter splendour and of course, the heady couture of Monsieur Dior himself who had designed several sumptuous costumes for the most extravagant society ball of the century. Decorated with colourful wild feathers, the oscillating weight of the new Dior Grand Bal Plume watches enlivens the softness of the iridescent white mother-of-pearl dial, enhanced by the gold and diamonds set on the bezel.

In previous iterations, Dior Gand Bal Plume collection had drawn upon Dior’s own haute couture heritage, often embellished with flowers, or on occasion, drawing upon the ornate baroque architecture of the Paris Opera House itself, re-creating iconic Parisian visual spectacle with sumptuous fabrics, and feathered petticoats – all transposed onto colourful dials that are adorned with scintillating diamonds, a Rigaudon dance in the context of timekeeping.

Earlier this year, Dior kicked 2020 off with a Chinese New Year edition of the Grand Bal Plume watch: combining the delicacy of a feather in flamboyant red, the 36mm Dior Grand Bal special edition was equipped with an automatic movement, exclusive to the Maison Dior, the “Dior Inversé 11 1⁄2” calibre, featuring a patented and functional oscillating weight recreating the swirl of a ball gown.

The new 2020 Dior Grand Bal Plume watches also share the same beating heart with its Chinese New Year predecessor, a harmonious dance of artistry (exhibited via oscillating feathered petticoat embroidered with diamonds) and exquisite craftsmanship – combining feather-making know-how, specific to Haute Couture, with watchmaking technology: A worthy invitation to dream in Dior.

2020 Dior Grand Bal Plume Price and Specs

Movement Automatic Dior Inversé 11 1/2 calibre with 42 hours power reserve
Case 36mm steel with round-cut diamonds set in bezel and decorated with a pink gold ring
Strap Alligator
Price On Application

 

From Perfume to Hand Sanitiser, LVMH’s Act of Philanthropy not Seen Since World War II

In every continent, today’s philanthropists acknowledge the enduring influence of Andrew Carnegie. But on Sunday 15th March 2020, LVMH Moët Hennessy took Carnegie’s Gospel of Wealth philosophy to the next level. The Louis Vuitton owner ordered that its perfume and cosmetics facilities be re-tooled to manufacture hydroalcoholic gel or hand sanitiser.

Lauren Sherman, Executive Editor of Business of Fashion reported that the directive came straight from LVMH chairman and chief executive Bernard Arnault, though it was not confirmed, yesterday, Monday the 16th saw facilities that produce fragrances and cosmetics for Christian Dior, Guerlain, and Givenchy switching over to hand sanitisers and hand disinfectant gel, which will be given to French health authorities and hospitals free of charge.

“LVMH will use the production lines of its perfume and cosmetic brands…to produce large quantities of hydroalcoholic gels from Monday. These gels will be delivered free of charge to the health authorities. LVMH will continue to honour this commitment for as long as necessary, in connection with the French health authorities.” LVMH statement

From Perfume to Hand Sanitiser, LVMH’s Act of Philanthropy not Seen Since World War II

During World War II, America’s manufacturing might was key to the Allied victory. By the beginning of 1944, the output of American factories was twice that of all the Axis nations as manufacturers, including watchmakers like Hamilton, Bulova and Waltham, shut down normal operations and retooled for wartime; in essence, LVMH’s act of philanthropy in switching from cosmetics to hand sanitiser has not been seen in over 70 years and their’s is an act (especially if this influences other industries to join them – creating medical diagnostic tools, masks and other vital medical supplies) that would appear to be the key in our own allied victory against the coronavirus.

American watchmakers like Hamilton, Waltham-Longines and Bulova re-tooled their factories to produce weapons and ammunition for the US army during World War II

Gospel of Wealth – A classic model for modern corporate social responsibility

Having made his fortune in Pittsburgh America, Carnegie is indisputably the world’s greatest ever philanthropist. If you’ve heard of the Carnegie name, it’s likely you’ve discovered it from the many libraries, universities and scholarships awarded to the poor and disenfranchised. In addition to feeding the mind, Carnegie believed in feeding the soul, creating spaces for appreciating music and culture, like the famed namesake Carnegie Hall in New York. By the time he died in 1919, Carnegie had already given away more than 90% of his fortune $350 billion (adjusted for 2020 inflation) wealth accumulated as the world’s biggest steel maker. No one comes near to him for the scale of giving much more than today’s biggest donors Bill and Melinda Gates.

What makes him so influential is how most of our modern conglomerates and conglomerate owners behave today mirrors his ideals: Carnegie wasn’t the just the world’s biggest philanthropist, he was the world’s most modern philanthropist. His treatise, the Gospel of Wealth has set down the principles for giving that many of today’s ultra-wealthy are measured against when it comes to giving back to society.

Carnegie sponsored the construction of the Peace Palace in the Hague originally built to provide a home for the Permanent Court of Arbitration, a court created to end war by the Hague Convention of 1899

If the portrait of a billionaire philanthropist seems familiar today, it is directly as a result of Andrew Carnegie’s pioneering giving; in his day, it was revolutionary. In case you have not yet noticed, most philanthropic efforts today, either from on an individual or corporate scale, is modelled on Carnegie’s ideals chronicled in his Gospel of Wealth: financial donations are put to nourishing society’s most disadvantaged in a holistic manner – mind, body and soul.

Carnegie’s philanthropic vision was extraordinarily futurist: he gave millions to promote peace and disarmament but his greatest idea was one where he thought that if all the great industrialists (the high net worth individualists of his time) of the world came together, World Wars could be prevented. Indeed, given the globalised nature of our interconnected economies, an active war with multiple nations on the scale of World War II is not as likely today but nevertheless, we still deal with existential threats to global peace in the form of international trade and economic warfare and third party “actors” in the case of the Covid-19 coronavirus which has now turned into a global pandemic.

“I know you would, rather than instead of building this, I had distributed it to you in the form of higher wages. That’s what you think would have been proper? But if I had given you more money in your pay cheques, what would you have done with it? You might have bought a better cut of meat for the family. You might have spent it on drink. But I know what you need: You need a library. You need a museum, you need a concert hall. These is what raises the working man. And that’s why I saved this money. And I’m now giving back to the community what the community needs.” – Andrew Carnegie on the opening of his library in Pittsburgh

This photograph taken on June 26, 2018, shows the transcept of Notre Dame de Paris Cathedral in Paris. (Photo by Ludovic MARIN / AFP)

Dealing with the “contradictions” of modern philanthropy

When the Notre Dame de Paris caught fire back in April 2019, the outpouring of global grief and the pledging of vast sums of money towards its re-build and restoration prompted an equivalent push back of social justice warriors wondering if the money could have been better spent “feeding the poor” or “housing the homeless”. This “contradiction” as been a 200 year old problem which Carnegie himself dealt with during the peak of the 19th century. In his usual brusque manner, he told a crowd of employees during the opening of his namesake library in Pittsburgh, “I know you would, rather than instead of building this, I had distributed it to you in the form of higher wages. That’s what you think would have been proper? But if I had given you more money in your paycheques, what would you have done with it? You might have bought a better cut of meat for the family. You might have spent it on drink. But I know what you need: You need a library. You need a museum, you need a concert hall. These are what raises the working man. And that’s why I saved this money. And I’m now giving back to the community what the community needs.”

While his condescension might not have been well received, his vexatious annoyance with small-mindedness is really aimed towards a psychological issue in how most human beings process information. Case in point, Philippe Martinez, leader of the General Confederation of Labor trade union once stated, “If they can give tens of millions to rebuild Notre Dame, then they should stop telling us there is no money to help with the social emergency.”

Notre Dame de Paris had oak interiors and pillars

It might be tempting to think you have to align yourself on the side of social justice warriors or billionaire foundations but philanthropic conundrums of this nature are a false dichotomy. Intellectually and philosophically speaking,  there’s nothing wrong with donating to the restoration of a burned cathedral or contributing to the arts because humanity is not the sum of its basic needs and biological impulses. We need food for the body, just as we need sustenance for the mind and soul. We have urgent problems like homelessness, unequal food distribution and wealth inequality but we also have pressing concerns that deal with “preserving cultural identity” and our artistic heritage – philanthropy simply isn’t a zero-sum in the way we think.

The Gospel according to Andrew (Carnegie)

Even if not outright influenced by Carnegie’s Gospel of Wealth, many today mimic his pattern of giving and thinking. That said, Carnegie’s philanthropy eventually drove him to ever greater ruthlessness as a businessman. In his pursuit for “returning to society”, the former friend of the unions began dismantling the very institutions he had supported on the side of the working class he championed. Why? So his steel company could be more competitive and that he could make more money to give away.

Though he came to the realisation in the latter part of his life, his efforts in undoing the damage he had done were not sufficient and he took it upon himself to address what he saw as the fundamental challenges facing society in his time, a problem which very much exists till this day: the proper administration of wealth.

In the modern age where wealth is increasingly concentrated in the hands of the few, Carnegie’s gospel is just as relevant today as it was close to 200 years ago: In 1889, men like J. P. Morgan, John D. Rockefeller, Cornelius Vanderbilt and William Randolph Hearst, also known as “robber barons” were generating enormous fortunes and Carnegie had written his gospel to justify this concentration of wealth and to show how it could then be redistributed.

A Rolex Testimonee since 1994, David Doubilet is a pioneer and one of the best-known underwater photographers in the world. After publishing his first article in National Geographic in 1971, he swiftly gained recognition as one of the magazine’s top photographers. David Doubilet’s lens has captured all the waters of the planet.

He held that the first duty of the man of wealth, was to set an example of modest living, shunning display or extravagance, to provide moderately for the legitimate wants of those dependent upon him, and after doing so, to consider all surplus revenues which come to him simply as trust funds, for which he is called upon to administer and strictly bound as a matter of duty to administer in the manner which in his judgment is best calculated, to produce the most beneficial results to the community: Is it any wonder that the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation, established in 1945, which owns Rolex, donates a great deal of its income to charity and social causes in Geneva and around the world?

To Carnegie, wealth was a moral and ethical responsibility and his gospel did not make him a popular man: because nobody, least of all the rich and powerful, wants to be told that what they’re doing is immoral or lacking in ethical standing. Yet, in his perspective, men of wealth, economically the fittest of the modern civilisation do indeed have a duty to do the smart thing with the immense resources they can marshal towards the common good. Carnegie’s instruction to his contemporaries was truly radical and even today, relevant.

“He who dies rich, dies disgraced.” – Carnegie

LVMH and the marshalling of industrial resources

What LVMH has done with the production of hand sanitisers using their cosmetics facilities is exemplary. Especially so if its truly on the directive of French billionaire business magnate Bernard Jean Étienne Arnault. He was instrumental in establishing LVMH as a major patron of art in France when he established a cornerstone of the company in 1991 with corporate philanthropy initiatives that serve the general interest. More recently in 2019, Arnault pledged $200 million to the rebuilding of Notre Dame de Paris and $11 million to help fight the wildfires ravaging the Amazon rainforest; LVMH has also pledged $2.2 million to Chinese Red Cross in Wuhan to help with medical supplies but his latest move on marshalling industrial production resources from his facilities is inarguably wise on ethical, moral and economic grounds.

“(It) is not just about words and speeches or signing declarations of principle, it also requires taking concrete collective actions when dangers arise in order to provide resources for local specialists and work together to save our planet.” – Yann Arthus-Bertrand, LVMH Advisory Board Member

Retail is at a standstill, a growing number of cities are on lockdown, and rather than let factories (and employees) run fallow, LVMH has decided to put its massive capability and know-how at producing maximum public good – in this case, the literal disinfectant gel that will be delivered to French health authorities and the Assistance Publique-Hospitaux de Paris, a network of 39 teaching hospitals that treat more than eight million patients each year.

Meanwhile, France has closed eateries and other non-essential stores in an effort to combat the virus which has infected more than 156,000 people worldwide and killed at least 5,833. It is modern warfare the likes we have never seen. A truly globalised world and its interconnected economies mean that more than ever, the wealth and resources concentrated the hands of the few can be utilised to maximum effectiveness.

At press time: Chinese Billionaire Jack Ma has donated a total of 1.1 million testing kits, 6 million masks, and 60,000 protective suits and face shields in the African continent. His first shipment of 1 million masks and 500,000 coronavirus test kits arrived in the United States on Monday morning, yesterday.

After more than four decades of leading the most influential tech company in the world, Bill Gates has withdrawn from Microsoft to focus on philanthropic activities with special attention on “global health and development, education, and increasing engagement in tackling climate change.” The Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation was launched in 2000 and is reported to be the largest private foundation in the world, holding $46.8 billion in assets. Meanwhile, Amazon and Gates Foundation are in discussion to deliver coronavirus test kits to Seattle homes. Further proving that the needs of the world have evolved beyond mere financial aid but in the leveraging of production and logistics capability as demonstrated by the likes of LVMH. The Group projects that it will make 12 tons of hand sanitiser within its first week and it will continue to do so free of charge as long as France requires.

 

Google Arts and Culture is Offering Free Virtual Tours of 2,500 World-Class Museums

Shuttering the world’s most renowned art and cultural institutions across Europe and the United States, whilst quarantining millions of individuals worldwide, COVID-19 has disrupted the drone of everyday life in more ways than ever anticipated.

Google Arts and Culture is Offering Free Virtual Tours of 2,500 World-Class Museums

In an attempt to relieve the many who feel anxious, restless and isolated, Google Arts and Culture offers virtual tours of over 2,500 world-class museums, galleries and opera theatres – not only accessible from the comfort of home, but also completely free of charge.

Of the multitude of participating establishments, the highlights include  London’s Tate Modern and the British Museum, the Van Gogh Museum, the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam, New York City’s Museum of Modern Art, Whitney Museum, and the Metropolitan Opera.

Besides streaming live concerts for music enthusiasts, each virtual tour provides users with the full museum experience, enabling them to browse entire exhibitions and roam the full length of each building’s perimeter and interior, at a click of a button through Google’s street view.

By Julia Roxan

 

Explore Luxury Vacation Homes To Escape To And Indulge In

Essential design trends in vacation homes bring intangible value to escapism-centred destination properties.

Whether a mountain cabin or a luxury villa in the Caribbean, while everyone may have a slightly different idea of what their vacation home might look like, at the root of the aspiration is the promise of an escape from the ordinary. Not surprisingly, many design trends for vacation properties reflect the intangible qualities that go beyond the basic practical considerations of typical home designs. Luxury add-ons and unique offerings, akin to those provided at élite resorts, are all the rage and can make a property a desirable alternative to a primary home, setting it up as a unique sell above other available offerings to vacation home seekers.

Uluwatu Villa designed by SAOTA, Bali, Indonesia

Beyond the aspirational qualities, a permanent vacation destination presents an opportunity of investment with a tangible use – an asset that can provide an additional income and a personal escape alike. Treating design as an investment, vacation home design trends reach beyond the utilitarian considerations to craft luxurious and unforgettable experiences, homes built on dreams where users can immerse themselves into their versions of hedonism at their finest.

Location, Location

Vacation homes are intrinsically connected to their locations. Buyers, first and foremost, choose to buy a vacation home because they enjoy spending time at that particular destination or know others who would enjoy the same. Thus, a vacation home must offer an immersive experience that connects an owner with its context. This means designing spaces that maximise on the views of the outside scenery or blur the boundaries between the inside and the outside with transparent, open spaces that link exterior landscapes with internal settings.

Pool deck belonging to Uluwatu Villa, Bali, Indonesia

Oneness with the environment creates an irreplicable sense of luxury that capitalises on the biggest asset of a vacation home – its location. This can lend a home an unforgettable and unique character that no physical design can match. A smart design that recognises this advantage is, thus, invaluable to ensure that the selling features of the destination, whether it is the sea, the mountains, the vast openness of nature or the dense skyline of a big city, are featured as prominently as the property itself.

Indoor/outdoor area of Uluwatu Villa, Bali, Indonesia

Live Well

An aspect synonymous to the term “vacation” is that of wellness. With wellness tourism on the rise, vacation homes are not only following but also setting the trends when it comes to wellness living concepts. From heat reflexology flooring to indoor and outdoor yoga rooms, to meditation gardens, these add-on features expand the opportunities and modes of relaxation within vacation properties, with interior designers and architects creating buildings that are sanctuaries designed to promote healthy ways of unwinding.

The spacious living area, Lighthouse home by Puras Architecture in Agger, Denmark

In wellness-minded vacation homes, wellness also comes through in usage of materials and in choices made within the physical design. Local, natural, repurposed and reclaimed materials convey the sense of harmony with the surroundings, while commissioned craft elements lend a certain human tactility to a vacation home. Properties designed to maximise light and air circulation promote the basic and almost unnoticeable but integral aspects of well-being that can transform a vacation home into a wellness sanctuary.

Lighthouse home by Puras Architecture in Agger, Denmark

A Dose of Simplicity

While not immediately obvious, a vacation home offers a chance to escape not only from the mundane of the everyday but also the everyday clutter. Devoid of the unnecessary, the enjoyment of the experience itself can become a central feature, where simple décor can offer the necessities, while the unneeded extras are mindfully omitted. This simplicity can translate into the smallest details of vacation home design – everyday features like air conditioning grilles, window frames, garbage disposals can be minimised to create uninterrupted surfaces and enhance the openness and quality of a residence.

Indulge in pool time at Cheetah Plains home by ARRCC in Kruger, South Africa

Touches of Luxury

While simplicity keeps a mind clear, it is a chance to experience a bit of luxury that sets the truly unforgettable vacation properties apart from the rest. High-quality materials, add-on features and bespoke furniture go a long way to create a luxury feel in a vacation lodging.

Cheetah Plains home by ARRCC in Kruger, South Africa

Luxury hotel amenities and facilities are also making their way into the designs of vacation homes. From outdoor theatres to wine cellars, designers are bringing unique elements into residential settings, as more and more vacation property owners are influenced by five-star resort designs and want to recreate the look and feel of luxury hotels. This means a no-expense-spared approach: rare and luxurious materials, custom-made ironmongery and furniture to reflect individualistic lifestyle preferences. Going beyond the luxury hotel-inspired design, exclusivity is the key and customised solutions can drive personalised to ensure that every single feature is designed to the owner’s personal taste.

By Joe Lim

 

Mother Nature Transforms The Polluted Ussuri Bay into a Beautiful Glass Beach

A mere 30-minute drive from the east naval port of Vladivostok, is where Mother Nature’s waves have meticulously smoothed every edge in crafting the awe-inspiring sight, known as Glass Beach.

Mother Nature Transforms The Polluted Ussuri Bay into a Beautiful Glass Beach

Once the national dumping ground for used glass bottles and porcelain items, the Russian shorelines of Ussuri Bay, have since transformed into one of the nation’s hottest tourist destinations.

Shaded by high cliffs, the beach is a stunning sight all year round, featuring a kaleidoscope of vibrant colors which emanate from the sand’s enormous trails of gleaming glass jewels and pebbles. No longer dangerous due to each item’s gradual erosion, an overwhelming mass of tourists have since flocked to the beach, basking in the sun and pocketing irresistible souvenirs along the way.

Despite its popularity, the distinct and colourful qualities of Glass Beach many adore, may not be around for long – thanks to Mother Nature’s never-ending work of polishing the broken glass into oblivion. Barely measuring 10 centimetres, experts and academics predict that the miraculous pebbles may not survive another 20 years, as unrelenting waves continue to break down each eroded particle.

With an inevitable potential of regressing back to the ordinary – the Ussuri Bay Glass Beach is a once-in-a-lifetime venture worth taking, while it still exists.

By Julia Roxan