Tag Archives: chronograph watches

New Zenith Defy 21 chronographs in Ultraviolet and Pink Editions

A world-first in watchmaking, Zenith made the world’s first high-frequency chronograph, the El Primero. So named for its primacy, the world’s first high-frequency chronograph is joined today in visual manifestation: arguing that all colours we can perceive are frequencies of visible light, then violet, the highest frequency of them all, beyond which is invisible ultraviolet light and thus not in contention in terms of graphic design), is finally paired with the highest frequency chronograph in serial production, the Zenith Defy 21.

New Zenith Defy 21 ultraviolet: High-frequency chronograph with Highest frequency colour

Zenith chose its revolutionary 1/100thof a second El Primero Defy 21 chronograph calibre beating at an incredible frequency of 50Hz as the canvas for this visually and mechanically striking creation. Visible through the open dial, the new Zenith Defy 21 ultraviolet chronograph features three grey chronograph registers and a grey flange ring, accented throughout with pops of ultraviolet.

The El Primero 9004 automatic with two dedicated escapements, one for basic timekeeping operating at 36,000 VpH – 5 Hz, and the other for precision chronograph timekeeping operates at 360,000 VpH – 50 Hz finds itself more than a match for its visual vibrance: accentuated by the DEFY 21’s uniquely avant-garde movement conception and design with open, angular bridges.

A white-tipped central 1/100th of a second El Primero Defy 21 chronograph hand makes a complete revolution above the dial in one second. The Zenith Defy 21 Ultraviolet joins a select group of limited Defy 21 l Primero 50th Anniversary edition (which were only available as a box-set with two other watches) with an open dial paired with closed chronograph counters.

Pretty in Pink: Zenith Defy 21 Pink Edition

In association with Pink Ribbon Switzerland, Zenith is supporting a cause that affects countless women around the world. For the first time in the mechanically sophisticated Zenith Defy 21 chronograph, Zenith has created for the first time ever, an astonishingly pink PVD treated movement.

With 288 white diamonds of varying sizes perfectly set into the case, the rose gold case of the Zenith Defy 21 Pink Edition stands out not just for its brilliant pink countenance but also for its sharp facets and the unmistakable rose gold bezel adding another layer of vivid sparkle with 44 scintillating baguette-cut pink sapphire stones. Like the new Zenith Defy 21 ultraviolet, the latest Defy 21 Pink Edition echoes the dashing tones of the watch’s exterior, the open black and golden dial reveals the striking metallic pink treated movement, which extends from the dial side right through to the star-shaped oscillating rotor on the back.

Recognising the need to spread positivity and hope to countless women around the world who are battling breast cancer, the latest Zenith Defy 21 Pink Edition gives Pink Ribbon Switzerland with the juxtaposition of robust, high-performance horology and the enduring symbology of support for those affected by the indiscriminate disease. A portion of the proceeds from the sale of the new Zenith Defy 21 Pink Edition will be donated to Pink Ribbon Switzerland.

Zenith Defy 21 Ultraviolet and Defy 21 Pink Edition Price & Specs

Movement Automatic El Primero 9004 / World premiere with a Pink PVD treated movement for the Pink Edition; both with 50 hours power reserve
Case 45mm Microblasted Titanium or Rose gold set with sapphires & diamonds; both with 100 metres water resistance
Strap Rubber
Price From CHF 13400

 

Montblanc new 1858 Automatic 24H and Monopusher Chronograph

For 2020, Montblanc is presenting two new 1858 watches, the Automatic 24H and a limited edition Monopusher Chronograph. Inspired by Minerva’s heritage, the new 1858 Automatic 24H and new Montblanc Monopusher Chronograph lean heavier into their vintage aesthetics. Featuring new coloured dials and bronze cases, Montblanc’s 1858 collection of watches is enriched by a 24-hour complication – an uncommon method of time display given our faster paced 21st-century lifestyles but currently, oddly prescient given that almost all economic activity has ground to a standstill with life reverting to a much slower pace given the global lockdowns.

Classic 19th-century design codes and vintage elements also celebrate that portentous confluence of Minerva pocket watches and a nascent industry of railroad wristwatches, which makes the new Montblanc 1858 Automatic 24H a fun journey down nostalgia lane: Guess this year is the year to party like its 1858.

Montblanc new 1858 Automatic 24H and Monopusher Chronograph

We can thank the ancient Egyptians for our 24 hour day. Over a millennia ago, pioneering Egyptian astronomers initially divided the daylight into ten partitions measured by sundials, since only the ten daytime hours would render the shadow of a sundial meaningful, the additional two hours for the morning and evening twilights, brought the total to 24 with astronmers marking the passing of the hours in the night by observing the overhead rotation of the stars grouped together in easily observable “decans” until sunrise.

With its lone hour pointer, the new Montblanc 1858 Automatic 24H recalls this ancient legacy in the context of our own pre-modern history – time indicated on a 24-hour scale using a red-coloured hand coated in SuperLumiNova accomplishes optimal legibility for both day and night readability. Furthermore, this ethos of exploration finds another voice in the compass scale, typically only a design feature but on the new Montblanc 1858 Automatic 24H, an element designed to be used.

Displayed in a beige-coloured ring running around the periphery of the dial, with compass markers at each of the cardinal points and each 15-minute interval allow you to use the new 1858 Automatic 24H as a rudimentary navigation device.

Using the new Montblanc 1858 Automatic 24H as a compass

The sun rises in the East and sets in the West, which means that if you’re in the Northern Hemisphere, the 1858 Automatic 24H  will indicate South at midday. If your watch has been correctly set, simply orienting the hour hand to point towards the sun while holding your watch face parallel to the ground will orient the cardinal points to their geographic alignment with North at 24h and South at 12h. Should you find yourself in the Southern Hemisphere, the cardinal points are inverted.

The black map of the Northern Hemisphere and its 24 meridians becomes especially attractive as night starts to fall. Made out of luminescent material, SuperLumiNova-coated dial elements of the new Montblanc 1858 Automatic 24H – the hour numerals, indexes and single hour hand take on a mysterious glow, making the timepiece distinctive even in the dark.

The automatic timepiece comes with a new 42 mm bicolour case made of stainless steel and a bezel made of a special alloy of bronze, providing a vintage aesthetic. The timepiece is completed with a special “Spirit of Mountain Exploration” engraving on the case back.

New Montblanc Monopusher Chronograph Limited Edition

Minerva’s exquisitely finished monopusher chronograph may be out of reach to most young professionals but 2020 saw Montblanc release their Salmon dial Heritage Monopusher Chronograph limited edition and another vintage-inspired Monopusher chronograph in aged bronze.

Featuring a black dial with a beige-coloured railway track, as well as two counters at three and nine o’clock, the new 2020 bronze Monopusher Chronograph Limited Edition joins its salmon dial brother, with a rougher and tumble aesthetic versus a dressier, classical countenance. The dial highlights striking colour contrasts with their historical, luminescent, cathedral hands; luminescent Arabic numerals; railway minute tracks; and the original Montblanc logo from the 1930s with its historical font and Mont Blanc Mountain motif.

The satin-finishing of Montblanc’s new bronze Monopusher chronograph for 2020 features horn edges that are polished to underline their shape. Reinforcing its vintage appeal are details like fluted crowns, typical of those found on timepieces from that period, domed sapphire crystal glass boxes and of course, beige-coloured SuperLumiNova numerals for that faux-aged look.

The 1858 Monopusher Chronograph Limited Edition features the calibre MB. 25.12 that indicates elapsed time with a central second hand and a 30-minute counter, both with white- coloured hands to create a contrast with the black dial and allow better readability of the function. The start, stop and reset can be activated through a single pusher integrated into the crown. The timepiece is available with a new matching beige-coloured NATO strap that is made in a traditional 150-year-old strap manufacture in France.

Montblanc 1858 Automatic 24H Price & Specs

Movement automatic Calibre MB 24.20 with 42 hours power reserve
Case 42mm Stainless steel with bronze bezel with 100 metres power reserve
Strap black NATO
Price On application

Also available with a stainless steel case and bracelet or with an aged, cognac- coloured calfskin strap with beige-coloured stitching Sfumato

Bronze Montblanc Monopusher Chronograph Price & Specs

Movement automatic Calibre MB 25.12 with 48 hours power reserve
Case 42mm bronze case with 100 metres power reserve
Strap NATO or “rice beads” bracelet
Price On application

 

Zenith celebrates 50th anniversary with El Primero

10th January 1969 is the key date when the most famous of chronograph watches, the Zenith El Primero (‘the first’ in Spanish) made its debut as the first automatic chronograph in the world. And it achieved this feat coupled with the ability to run at the high beat of 36000vph.

Why did Zenith create the El Primero?

It was in the 1960s when the race for horology was geared towards high-frequency movements in a quest to conquer a more accurate and durable movement. Zenith’s efforts came at a time when the market was a most competitive one as, at that time, Zenith (who was in collaboration with Movado), Seiko and the Chronomatic group, comprising of Hamilton-Buren, Breitling, Heuer and Dubois Dépraz, were all competing to create the first automatic chronograph. After a fierce battle, Zenith-Movado beat the others and successfully launched the El Primero. And it did it with a chronograph that was also high-beat.

 

THE QUARTZ ERA AND BEYOND

In 1974, at the peak of the era of quartz watches, mechanical watches lost a lot of ground and Zenith had to slow down its production. The company slowly began to dispose of the tools and machinery for making the El Primero. However, Charles Vermot, a watchmaker at Zenith, decided to secretly save these most important of components of its production.

Indeed, this act was fortunate, as it allowed Zenith to once again, at a crucial time, produce the movements in 1988 when they received orders from them. The act alone ensured the survival of the company and we have Vermot to thank for it.

From then on, the company went from strength to strength, once again creating new Zenith El Primero watches such as the first Chronomaster in 2003 and the Zenith Defy 21 El Primero in 2017.

 

THE ANNIVERSARY TRIO BOX

Fast forward to 2019 and the Zenith El Primero is celebrating its 50th anniversary. For this momentous occasion, Zenith brings forth a unique anniversary trio set with three special watches inside.

Each of them come in only 50-piece limited edition runs and, upon receiving them, owners will first take note of the satin-brushed grey lid of the box with its built-in touch screen. Inside, they will spot a miniature watchmaker’s workbench and assortments such as a watch mechanism on a rest, adjustable lighting system, magnifying glass and signed screwdriver.

Also present is an actual die of the chronograph’s coupling-wheel bridge from the El Primero movement. The significance of this piece is that with it, should the lucky owners visit the Le Locle Zenith Manufacture, he or she will receive two coupling-wheel bridges which will be subsequently hand-stamped.

The owner can then bring one of these bridges home and the other will be engraved with his or her name before being left at the entrance wall of the attic of Charles Vermot. Apart from this special privilege, one will also notice that there is space left in the box to fit another watch – perhaps an indication of a future Zenith El Primero with the capability to time 1/1000th of a second.

 

A NEW CHRONOMASTER

First up in the set is the Zenith El Primero Chronomaster 2. Possibly the best representation of a contemporary El Primero, the Chronomaster 2 exudes its own personality while retaining the essence of the original El Primero.

This model comes equipped with the Zenith 3600 movement, still beating at the impressive high rate of 36000vph and able to measure down to 1/10th of a second effortlessly. As this is actually the second version of a Chronomaster, it has been enhanced with a seconds hack function and increased power reserve over its predecessor.

Furthermore, the watch has now improved reliability and accuracy. The sporty outlook of the watch is complemented with a larger 42mm case and a graduated black ceramic bezel.

 

MOVEMENT Zenith El Primero 3600 automatic chronograph with 36000vph, ability to measure 1/10th of a second, date indication and 60 hours power reserve. Certified Chronometer; CASE Steel with 42mm diameter and 100m water resistance; DIAL Silver-toned sunray-patterned dial three different-coloured counters; STRAP Black rubber with red stitching and steel double folding clasp

 

THE NEXT STEP

To behold this anniversary set is to behold Zenith’s promising future. As such, the trilogy features a watch that personifies the future of Zenith and of the El Primero.

This watch is the Zenith Defy El Primero 21. As one would already realize, the Defy El Primero is the contemporary, ultra-modern interpretation of the original El Primero. Coming in with a more prominent 44mm titanium case, the dial of the watch has been open-worked to show off the revolutionary movement beating inside.

The 9004 movement has two escapements with one for the watch functions beating at 36000vph and the other for the chronograph mechanism at 360000vph instead. The latter allows the watch to have the astounding ability to precisely measure and display timings down to 1/100th of a second.

 

MOVEMENT Zenith El Primero 9004 automatic chronograph with 36000vph, ability to measure 1/100th of a second and 50 hours power reserve. Certified Chronometer; CASE Steel with 44mm diameter and 100m water resistance; DIAL Openworked with three different-coloured counters; STRAP Black rubber with black alligator leather coating and titanium double folding clasp

 

THE REVIVAL

As we look at the storied history of Zenith, it is only appropriate that, within the 50th-anniversary box set, resides a revival of the original Zenith El Primero A386. Actually, for the first time since the arrival of that iconic original, Zenith had yet to issue a faithful recreation of it. However, eager collectors will be pleased that within the box set is a perfect re-edition of that most famous of chronographs.

To achieve the feat, the components of an original from the museum were laser-scanned. All dimensions and aesthetics have been replicated – the watch comes with the exact same 38mm steel case with curved crystal, case shape, pushers, tri-colour counters, hands and hour markers as well as the tachymeter scale and printed fonts, right down to the historically accurate leather strap.

The only differences are the installation of a sapphire case back (the original had a solid case back) and the refreshed crown logo. Of course, internally, the watch is powered by the latest version of the original El Primero column-wheel chronograph movement.

 

THE NEXT STEP

Apart from the A386 Revival in steel found in the set, Zenith has also created three more versions of the watch with precious metals. These are made in white, yellow and rose gold cases respectively and are not part of the said set.

While the dimensions and specifications remain similar to the steel version, these models come in 50-piece limited edition runs each and are awarded an astounding 50-year warranty by Zenith.

 

MOVEMENT Zenith El Primero 400 automatic chronograph with 36000vph, date indication and 50 hours power reserve; CASE Original 1969 case with 38mm diameter in steel/ yellow gold/rose gold/white gold and 100m water resistance; DIAL White lacquered dial; STRAP Alligator with protective rubber lining and matching pin buckle

 

Words by Kelvin Tan.

Discover more about the Zenith watches here.

 

Graham Chronofighter Vintage Pinups: Sally, Anna, Nina or Lilly?

Denis Martinet, Director of Asia for Graham Watches, at the Time Kulture exhibition at Pavilion in July 2017.

Hardcore history and aviation fans will be familiar with nose art, but the rest of us won’t immediately associate heavy military artillery like bombers and fighter jets with any kind of art.

So it’s apt for Graham Watches to introduce a classic, World War II era, army-man tradition into their latest rendition of the Chronofighter Vintage as reminder of its heritage: nose art of bodacious, ’40s pinup women, each clad — somewhat provocatively — according to her own style.

For background, nose art refers to the personalised decorations that air servicemen placed at the fuselages of their aircraft. Functionally, the paintings or decorations proved a useful way of distinguishing from friend or foe while airborne. Sea monsters, sharks and prancing horses were common, as were raunchier illustrations of women. It was the Germans who began the tradition, but became so popular that when it reached the Americans, it created a niche industry for professional artists like Donald Allen and Hal Olsen to make a name for themselves.

We had a chance to admire the limited edition Chronofighter Vintage Nose Art up close, at the Revolution by Time Kulture Exhibition in Pavilion, ongoing till July 16. Four different women — Sally, Anna, Nina and Lilly — feature on black or blue sun-brushed dials. Each of the ladies are skillfully and painstakingly lacquered on using featherline tools (visit their booth to watch a mesmerising video fo the process.) Calf leather straps come in black, green and blue, and of course, not to be missed is the fast-action start/stop trigger that made waves at Baselworld 2016 for its distinctiveness.

Only 100 of each design is available, according to Denis Martinet, Director of Asia for Graham Watches. Get your girl before she’s gone? We hope so.