Tag Archives: Fashion

Alessandro Sartori and the Art of Subtlety

Zegna artistic director Alessandro Sartori

Alessandro Sartori is a fan of the Formula One races. He must be—he’s been travelling here for the Singapore Grand Prix since 2018, taking in the race from the top of The Fullerton Hotel while Zegna holds a by-invite-only trunk show and party during race weekend. It has become a sort of Zegna tradition with friends of the brand flown in from around the region to revel in the atmosphere annually. You would see mannequins dressed in Zegna and racks of clothes positioned around the suite but no one is pushing for a sale—at least not on the evening of the finals.

I don’t think Sartori cares much for it too.

It’s not that the artistic director of Zegna isn’t particularly interested in heading a profitable business; he knows that his directional menswear designs sell. And they do. Zegna Group’s preliminary first-half revenues for 2023 reached more than EUR900 million, of which Zegna-branded products (Sartori-designed pieces as well as licensed products) account for EUR541 million, a 27.3 per cent increase from the year before.

Everything that Sartori has been doing point to the year-end financials looking to be just as promising.

A Zegna trunk show and party have been mainstays during the Singapore Grand Prix weekend

The recent trunk show in Singapore was a celebration of Zegna’s traceable Oasi Cashmere collection and its debut collaboration with Los Angeles-based brand The Elder Statesman. “It was very organic. We didn’t think to collaborate. [laughs] I met Greg (Chait of The Elder Statesman) through common friends. I was in love with his collection because I love the homemade-handmade aesthetic. He was actually doing things with a very grandmother quality, you know?” Sartori tells me.

Zegna’s expertise in cashmere led Chait—who was in Italy to source for the material—to Sartori at the recommendation of a mutual friend. A one-and-a-half-hour coffee meeting later, Sartori invited Chait to visit the brand’s headquarters Oasi Zegna, while he was invited to visit The Elder Statesman atelier in Los Angeles. They realised that they both share the same values and decided to talk about collaborating a year after.

The Zegna x The Elder Statesman collection is not one you would expect from Zegna. It’s a burst of colours in contrast to Zegna under Sartori where the use of colours is more keenly calculated and monochromatic in nature. It’s also more tactile in the kind of “grandmother quality” that The Elder Statesman is known for. But what’s truly Zegna is in the level of craftsmanship, the luxury leisurewear aesthetic, and of course, the use of Oasi Cashmere throughout the collection.

Sartori says that the goal was to be very precise in what would end up on the final line-up. “If we thought that the garment was not good for The Elder Statesman or for Zegna, we edited. And we edited beautiful pieces but the aesthetic was too much of this or that, or too strange,” he explains.

The result was a collection with each look striking a balance between Italian savoir-faire and luxury coupled with a laid-back Californian vibe.

The fact that this is only the third big-name collaboration that Zegna has produced makes it an industry outlier. While fashion brands big and small continue to seemingly churn out buzzy collaborations at least once a season, Zegna released its first collaboration—a phenomenal one at that with Fear of God—only in 2020. One might say the brand was simply late to the game, but Sartori never felt the need to keep up.

“I was very surprised Zegna collaborated with Fear of God, because it was the first-ever and I always felt like the brand didn’t need to go that route,” I tell Sartori.

“You like it?”

“I loved it. I tried to buy a piece but it was sold out everywhere.”

According to Sartori, he still receives requests to produce more of that landmark collaboration. When asked if the success of his first collaboration created pressure for him to do more, Sartori was quick to dismiss it. “I could have done plenty but I don’t want to. I want to do what we feel is right for the brand, something that has meaning and connection to the work we do,” he says. “We don’t do collaborations to make money. Of course, we need them to sell because if you don’t, that means you don’t deliver. But they’re made with the purpose of connecting different communities.”

With Zegna x The Elder Statesman, the idea of bridging different communities not only refers to the two different customers of both brands, but also to amplify the possibilities of creation using Zegna’s excellent quality and traceable cashmere. Oasi Cashmere is one of two material sustainability efforts that Zegna is investing heavily on currently—the other is Oasi Lino, traceable linen for the warmer months. The beauty of directly owning a number of Italian fabric mills allows Zegna to control the production of textiles right from the source, including the origins of the raw material itself. “I say this quite often lately, ‘One day, a generation will arise where if a garment isn’t tagged with a digital passport, they won’t buy it’,” Sartori opines. He likens it to the food industry where manufacturing details are extensive and clear on labels.

Before you deem this as merely Zegna jumping on the sustainability bandwagon that every other fashion brand is on, the very foundations of the brand is rooted in caring for the environment and community. It goes back to 1910 with founder Ermenegildo Zegna planting the first tree in the area surrounding his mill. And about 20 years later, he constructed a 26-kilometre road to make Oasi Zegna accessible to the local community and link them to its natural surroundings, providing a public space for leisure and outdoor activities among nature.

“I’m almost surprised that Zegna had never spoken about Oasi Zegna before,” Sartori expresses. “We thought it was a mistake and something we needed to communicate because it’s the honest and authentic vision of the company.”

It’s one of the rare instances in our interview that Sartori agrees that if there’s something the brand needs to be “louder” about, this would be it.

On Sartori’s part, it had already been a guiding principle for his designs. He sees sustainability as more than simply using recycled materials—Zegna continues to do so with its #UseTheExisting fabrications made from recycled sources—or one-off capsule collections. To Sartori, it’s a mindset that goes down to the very make of a garment. He cites the example of the very basics of tailoring: quality construction made to last. From the stitchings of the shoulders to how a buttonhole is made, everything has to be built with the idea that it should last for a very long time.

“If I designed a jacket that after three years doesn’t hold together and breaks during travel, I wouldn’t have done my job. The goal is for you to wear a jacket that after 15 years might have a little hole, but remains completely wearable. That is my dream,” he says.

Sartori calls this “designing for sustainability”, where there needs to be some foresight in constructing a garment in ways that would allow it to last, as well as have the possibility of being recycled. A jacket constructed with a lot of fusing, for instance, wouldn’t be recyclable because disassembling it is near impossible.

While seasonality is still apparent in Zegna’s collections, Sartori doesn’t design specific to each season. The collections have been streamlined such that ideas transcend seasons, but still rooted in a specific aesthetic that he’s crafted to be Zegna’s version of modern tailoring. It’s unabashedly louche and relaxed with foundational elements consisting of knitwear, the overshirt, the chore jacket, the signature Triple Stitch sneakers, voluminous trousers and the like. The look has been consistent since the Autumn/Winter 2021 collection as part of an evolution that was already in the works but accelerated by Covid.

In the consistency lies timelessness. You wouldn’t easily part ways with a Zegna piece from one season; there’s seamless integration between pieces from different seasons. Let’s face it, a Zegna piece is an investment that you’d want to hold on to and wear for as long as possible anyway. And Sartori continues to make that easier.

So yes, Sartori may be a fan of the Formula One races. The speed and the sounds (he’s unfazed by the zooming of cars below us, audible towards the end of our interview) may thrill him. But at his core, he’s not one to condone needless speed, but a still, calm force that pushes ahead with intention.

This article was first seen on ESQUIRE Singapore’s October 2023 Issue. 

For more on the latest in fashion stories, click here.

LUXUO Breakdown: Paris Fashion Week Highlights and the Latest From The Fashion Industry

Bold moves continue to shake up the fashion industry in the wake of Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2024 collection showcases. On the runway, Pierpaolo Piccioli took inspiration from the body presenting the Valentino collection in “a natural state, rather than a means of provocation”. At Balenciaga, Demna highlighted the Maison’s signature tailoring exaggerated silhouettes focusing on craft over convoluted theatrics. Off the runway Alexander McQueen appoints Seán McGirr, succeeding Sarah Burton as head of ready-to-wear of the fashion house while Chemena Kamali replaces Gabriela Hearst as Chloe’s new Creative Director. 

Chanel

Virginie Viard paid homage to Gabrielle Chanel in an incredibly modern way. The collection saw a nod to the 1920s with black lamé wide-legged pajama suit and Art Deco-style prints. Described by Virginie as “a kaleidoscope of vitality” the clothes evoked the artistic spirit of the villa Noailles in the south of France. Graphic tweeds and floral embroideries contrasted with laid-back sophisticated silhouettes in a showcase of “nonchalant elegance”.

Balenciaga

Balenciaga’s previous Autumn/Winter 2023 collection saw creative director Demna take a step back from theatrical runways (Spring/Summer 2023’s muddy runway for instance) and a celebrity-laden front row focusing more on the clothes and craftsmanship. For the Spring/Summer 2024 showcase, Demna arguably found a sweet spot between the two. The clothes were refined yet dynamic, nostalgic yet modern. Inspired by real people (or rather people who Demna has come across in his own life) the collection still featured Balenciaga details of exaggerated, structured shoulders, voluminous trenches and bomber jackets alongside body-hugging vinyl and immaculate floral and sequin gowns. We have come to know (and sometimes love) Demna for the severity of his collections and while they may at times be polarising, the talented eye for craftsmanship and taste at the house of Balenciaga cannot go uncredited.

Valentino

Taking inspiration from classical nude sculptures of women, Pierpaolo Piccioli’s Valentino collection was a commentary on feminism and the liberartion of women and the automony they have over their own bodies. “I wanted to use embroidery not as decoration, but as structure that becomes a fabric in itself,” Piccioli said. “I think this is the most exposed collection I’ve done; it shows skin, but in a different way”. Skin-baring looks and bold displays of defiance with faded Canadian tuxedos and exposed dresses were audacious for all the right reasons.

Alexander McQueen

Alexander McQueen’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection was also the last swan song for former creative director Sarah Burton who will be leaving Alexander McQueen after a 26-year-long run. Guests applauded as a teary-eyed Naomi Campbell strutted down in glitering silver dress with a structured corset and fringe skirt. The collection was a celebration of the female body with a multitude of textiles, cross-laced sticthing and of course, Burton’s signature floral motifs. Throughout her reign as creative director of Alexander McQueen, Burton was at times compared to her predecessor and her more “gentle” take to Lee MCQueen’s penchant for danger. Perhaps with that in mind, it was recently annouced that London-based menswear designer Seán McGirr will take over the helm at McQueen.

Chloe

Gabriela Hearst’s final collection for Chloé was a heart-felt one. Her last collection at Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2024 saw what some described as a “full-circle moment”. Pieces included tailored three-piece suits, embellished pieces with gold trimmings on their collars and sequinned belts buckles. A black trench, embroidered with silver, sat atop a flowing white dress (a house signature) and was styled with leather boots while colour arrived in the form of marigold gowns.

For more on the latest in fashion, click here.

Style Tips for Cold Weather

https://www.pexels.com/photo/selective-focus-photography-of-smiling-woman-wearing-red-hat-during-snowy-day-1381558/

As winter begins to set in, staying warm and looking stylish can start to feel like polar opposites. Depending on what the weather brings, you might be able to step out of the door one day looking chic and stylish, while on other days it can seem like your only option is to bundle up in as many layers as possible.

You can still dress for colder climates without looking like an overdressed snowman. Besides having a good quality umbrella (ideally windproof) and checking the forecast before you head out, there are several ways to stay warm without compromising on style.

Invest in a Cosy Sweater

If the climate is especially frosty where you live, it’s likely that you’ll already have several sweaters on rotation throughout the season. Having a variety of go-with-everything colors (like the cashmere collection from Quince) makes getting dressed much easier, even on those dark winter mornings. If it tends to be warmer where you are, but you still want to lean into sweater-weather season), a lightweight wool such as merino is ideal. 

Layer Up

While the advice in cold weather is to dress in layers, this doesn’t necessarily equate to looking frumpy. The key to layering is to go from the thinnest to thickest fabric: starting with a good base layer (thermals can be especially helpful when it’s really cold), add midweight layers over the top, and finish with your chosen jacket or winter coat on top. Paying attention to hemlines (a skirt that doesn’t peek out of the bottom of your coat) is also key.

If the Hat Fits

Choose a style of hat that suits your face shape. While oval faces can wear pretty much any style, other face types look best in hats with contrasting features to their face shape: for example if you have a longer, narrow face, opt for something with a shallow crown and more width, such as a beret or a wide-brimmed hat. 

Short and Sweet

While leggier types may be able to get away with long length pants in winter, it’s not always feasible. Having soggy hemlines that drag on the floor is never a good look – so come winter, you may want to consider packing away those maxi length skirts in favor of something a little shorter. The added bonus of cropping your pants and skirts to at least ankle level is so that you can show off your winter footwear.

Winterproof Boots 

On the topic of footwear, there will be days that call for something a little more substantial. The key components for the perfect winter boot are a waterproof fabric and a rugged sole: for wintry weather, a pair of rubber or snow boots earns style points when worn with a pair of jeans and fluffy jacket, or if you want something smarter, a classic Chelsea boot looks great with any outfit.

Accessorise

Choose scarves and gloves that complement the rest of your wardrobe. In addition to having a choice of coats, having a variety of winter accessory options is a great way to add little changes to your outfit that make a big difference.

For more on fashion and style reads, click here.

Balenciaga’s Couture Homecoming

Avenue George V was Cristóbal Balenciaga’s first home, the House makes a prodigal return to its roots after dropping its couturier title 55 years ago.

To know Balenciaga is to know the French house’s origin of haute couture. While the Maison momentarily shifted away from its fine dressmaking in favour of commercial prêt-à-porter, 2021 saw creative director Demna return the House to its roots. As the House expands its physical couture quarters at the iconic Avenue George V — a space helmed by Cristóbal Balenciaga as office, runway, and home — the question of couture’s longevity is begged: will history repeat itself?

After all, the fashion industry relies exclusively on the pillars of brand growth, sales, and clout. Would there then be space for couture to coexist, much less thrive? The Avenue George V site itself is constructed with intentionality. Modernised finishes are incorporated without dramatically overwriting the House’s heritage.

Clear considerations of past, present, and future are observed, as original stucco arabesques and carpets are patinated to replication, while futurism is indicated by Demna-signature darkness (in the shape of smoked glass cabinetry). The expansion welcomes couture clients and hosts atelier activities for the brand, signalling an upper-level approval for the revived subdivision.

Yet, to question the intentionality behind the couture venture is to understand the industry player that is theatrics. The recent Fall ’23 couture collection was widely discussed — perhaps partly for the enduring discourse of its 2022 scandal — but more so for the show’s closing look: a 3D-printed, chrome armour gown. Like a metaphor for Balenciaga’s reverence for then and now, the gown was reflective in underscoring its sensibilities for new-age craftsmanship that exalts a historic dressmaking past.

Digitally, it was “Another Cool Age Thing”. But in an age where social currency reigns supreme, Balenciaga’s “cool thing” crown earns it just enough capital to cement its spot among Gen Z favourites. Regardless of how Balenciaga’s trompe l’oeil jeans sell, its amped-up couture homecoming signposts a new revenue stream: online fanfare.

This article was first seen on Men’sFolio.com

For more on the latest in luxury fashion, click here.

Balenciaga Bridges Heritage With a New Generation

Every artist eventually returns to their roots. Pablo Picasso did so for a brief while in 1918, where it was theorised that the effects of World War I influenced a realism moment for the known surrealist artist. Madonna took it against label executives’ warnings and produced a laid-back, country-inspired album at the height of her high-profile career. But what did Picasso and Madonna have in common that transpired the need to return to their roots? A sudden sense of self-discovery.

When a certain result or quality is expected of you, after years of cultivating and refining it to your name, stumbling upon a need to start again is a chance to restart things. It is a fresh take on your abilities to remove the noise surrounding your name and your work and eventually find something new to talk about.

Then there is Balenciaga, specifically its Winter ’23 collection, where creative director Demna did away with the meta, camp-induced click baits he has induced the brand towards for years. Instead, he leaned his attention towards stripping back to design fundamentals — a feature that will trickle down even to his most recent 52nd Couture collection in July.

Here, the designer took the shoes of the brand’s founder, Cristóbal Balenciaga, and abandoned his own. A change in the air brought to life immediately by using simple white canvas drapes in the collection’s show or the backdrops of the still-in-progress restoration of the ateliers at 10–12 Avenue George V in its campaign. It is undoubtedly a startling contrast, given the inescapable gritty, techno-infused landscapes and attitudes of Demna’s Balenciaga that has been tied to his name.

So what of the beginning for Balenciaga? Simple, it meant full steam ahead on focusing on design — the way Cristóbal Balenciaga had established the brand. Not just meaningful design that ceaselessly draped the body to perfection or produced outfits drawn out of the archives and tweaked to modern interpretation. But to begin again meant new ways of thinking about fashion, just as Balenciaga was known for being a master in deconstructing the perceived. It would explain why Winter ’23 still looks fresh and modern despite its connotations of heritage.

To steer the house back to its beginnings would be to respect Christobal’s Balenciaga intentions. His commitment to deconstruct was palpable, a trope that made him all the more powerful given his awareness that not everyone favours rebellious thinking. That line of thinking would lead Demna to produce new forms of deconstruction.

While producing volume was Cristóbal Balenciaga’s forte — who achieved it by breaking the rules of forms back then — Demna replicated it using air. Zip-up hoodies, motorcycle jackets, tracksuits, and puffer jackets are reconstituted with inflatable shapes sewn into the linings. Its intention is completely Cristóbal Balenciaga, but its execution — produced with everyday aesthetics — has Demna’s inklings shown throughout still. Silk georgette gowns with draping and gathering of extremely asymmetrical cuts also suggest new forms of volumes.

There might be things that Demna’s Balenciaga has yet to accomplish at Balenciaga, but of all the designers who have been given the title of creative director at the house, Demna is the only one who comes as close to Cristóbal Balenciaga’s original intentions. Even jersey — a material unknown to the original Balenciaga house — has been remade through deconstruction in the collection.

Small-fit sweatsuits in jersey or velour, animal print leather trenches, and floral print plissé dresses were all rebuilt to highlight shoulders and provide a prominent, rounded form thanks to armoured patches.

Its Couture line also makes an appearance: floor-length gowns that were painstakingly sequinned, crystal-studded, layered with beaded fringe, knit with sparkling yarns, lace embroidered, and hand-embellished with single drops of silicon draws extreme parallels to the usage of everyday items and Balenciaga’s context of Haute Couture techniques. Bags were blown up in proportions too, but soft in touch — the collection introduces the Monaco Bag and an evolution of the Crush Bag.

Photography @markingdistance

For more fashion reads, click here.

Luxury Italian Leather Briefcases for Men from Von Baer

First impressions matter, particularly in business, which is why the right accessory can speak volumes about your personal style, professionalism, and attention to detail. Browse the top picks for luxury leather briefcases from the high-end leather accessories brand Von Baer, including business briefcases and laptop bags.

Best High-End Leather Briefcase

No.1 Briefcase by Von Baer

The No.1 is a strong briefcase for those who want to make a statement. It includes a spacious triple-gusset design, a dedicated laptop sleeve, and just the right amount of internal pockets. It’s made from the highest quality full grain Italian leather, handmade in Florence, Italy.

The detachable shoulder strap is excellent when moving between meetings, and the lockable main compartment helps to keep important tech and documents secure. The bag is ideal for business professionals, lawyers, accountants, and anyone else looking to make a strong statement. It is available in brown, tan, or black leather.

Luxury Laptop Bag

CITY Laptop Bag by Von Baer

The CITY laptop bag is luxurious and modern, allowing it to fit perfectly into both a professional and casual setting, so you can use it all day, everyday. Made from full grain Italian leather, it will develop leather patina over time, adding to the bag’s unique character. It comes with a detachable shoulder strap, and can be personalized with a laser engraving.

Slim Profile Work Bag

Exquisite Slim Laptop Bag by Von Baer

The Exquisite has a really slim profile, which is ideal for those who want a more sleek and understated briefcase. Despite this slim design, it still has a dedicated 14 inch laptop compartment and a large internal section with extra zipped pockets. It comes with a detachable shoulder strap, and can be personalized with a laser engraving.

Modern Leather Laptop Bags

For something a little more contemporary, consider the Essential and Elegant laptop bags shown below:

 Essential Modern Briefcase by Von Baer
Elegant Laptop Bag by Von Baer

These bags combine the traditional full-grain leather material with a modern design. They are ideal for those in creative industries, or who don’t want to appear older than their time.

Business Garment Travel Bag

Grand Leather Garment Bag by Von Baer

The Grand is ideal if you want to get changed at the office after your commute; or carry your suit with you on a business trip.

 It’s a Duffel-style leather bag with a built-in garment bag, allowing you to zip up your suit inside the bag lining to prevent creases, while still having a carry-on size-compliant bag for the rest of your things.

Why Authentic Italian Full Grain Leather?

There are many reasons to choose authentic Italian full-grain leather:

  1. Quality and Durability – Italian leather is well renowned for its high quality and exceptional durability. Full grain leather, in particular, is the top layer of animal skin, and so is incredibly strong and long-lasting.
  2. Craftsmanship – Italy has a long-standing traditional of artisan craftsmanship, and they are well respected for their ability to make handmade goods really well.
  3. Timeless Style – Italian leather products never go out of style, offering elegance and sophistication that’s a symbol of luxury.
  4. Unique Aesthetic – the natural grain of full-grain leather products keep the imperfections of the skin intact, giving each accessory a unique look.
  5. Leather Patina – over time full-grain leather develops a wonderful pattern called leather patina, further adding to the unique story of your bag.

How To Tell if Leather Is Real?

The best way to tell if leather is real is to read the authenticity label. All real leather products should be able to certify where the leather came from. For example, Von Baer bags include a certificate of authenticity with the trademark Pelle Conciata al Vegetale in Toscana to show it’s an authentic product made from Tuscan (Italian) Vegetable-Tanned Leather.

What Makes a Good Briefcase?

A good briefcase should have the following characteristics:

  1. High Quality Leather – it needs to be made from high quality, full grain leather. This ensures it will look professional for many years, unlike cheaper or imitation leathers.
  2. Stylish – the briefcase must be stylish, but also match your personal style, so it looks right with your favorite work outfits.
  3. Practical – finally it needs to be able to carry your work essentials without bulging or becoming too difficult to carry. If you carry a laptop, it needs a dedicated laptop compartment.

For more on the latest in style, click here.

Luxury’s Salute to The Art of Shoemaking 

Fall has only just begun, but the fashion world is already busy with the new season’s ready-to-wear collections, the big four fashion weeks and of notable interest, yet another luxury collaboration. This time, all eyes are on two Houses of Prada — Miu Miu and Church’s. 

Photo: Miu Miu

The collaboration introduces a refresh of two of the English heritage shoemaker’s long-standing dress shoe models — the oxford and double monk strap — for Miu Miu’s 2023 Fall/ Winter collection. Miu Miu says the collection is meant to espouse the Italian womenswear House’s “signature play between the traditional and the contemporary”, featuring a deconstructed presentation of archetypically formal womenswear in vibrant hues and shimmering embellishments. Overlaid jewelled panties on exposed stockings, three-dimensionally floral-embroidered cardigans and elegant collared dresses in a polka-dotted sheer finish are of the few sneak peaks the House has offered at its new season on social media. 

The Church’s shoes take up this play on disrupting the traditional, opting for the more recognisable as well as eye-catching brogue finish on both pairs along with the Miu Miu logo, playful in its own design, embossed on the tongue and the sides of the soles which are themselves made of functional non-slip, flexible rubber instead of the traditional heavier leather.

More than Meets The Eye

The campaign appears exciting in the onset, but those in the industry know better about the underlying flows of commercialism which drive fashion partnerships. Collaborations may be touted as a transient design platform to reinvent and reinvigorate, but many often fall short of the mark when serving mostly to combine market audiences under a single campaign or product. This might be the case for Miu Miu and Church’s, both Prada subsidiaries whose mutual success is of vested interest to the Prada group. Rather than an Italian luxury house making the effort of reaching out to a 150 year-old Northampton shoemaking pioneer from one end of the continent to the other, the collaboration could have easily been decided upon in a corporate board meeting on how to sustain better profit margins.

Photo: Church’s

The corporate narrative is especially resonant when you consider Church’s falling popularity in recent times, one part of a larger shift away from traditional men’s tailoring and formal dress. The decline of Church’s has been a slow burn, with news stands talking about how the shoemaker has “lost some of its lustre” as early as 1999 when the Prada made headlines with its USD$170 million acquisition shortly after purchases of Jil Sander and Helmut Lang. The gradual decline had eventually led to the exorbitant brand-wide price hike of around 40 to 50 percent in 2021, packaged as a reframing of Church’s shoes as a true luxury good. 

The storied shoemaker may have lost a fair share of its fans and aficionados in the past two decades since the Prada takeover, but it remains undeniable that Church’s is near synonymous with traditional men’s tailoring and English shoemaking at large. Church’s was famously James Bond’s shoe of choice, worn by Pierce Brosnan throughout the late 1990s as he shot scene after scene of suave car chases and rooftop stunts all in tailored suits and various pairs of Church’s dress shoes.

Pierce Brosnan in The World Is Not Enough, wearing a pair of Church’s Presley single monk strap oxfords in black paired with a Brioni suit. Photo: Danjaq LLC, MGM, United Artists

Corporate agenda aside, it still stands significant then that a luxury womenswear line would choose to spotlight an English heritage brand historically rooted in formal menswear, merging the figures of the contemporary feminine and traditional gentleman in the form of a pair of brogues. 

Shomaking’s Legacy 

It is perhaps only the famed leather shoe that wields the power to transverse such boundaries of identity and style. Parisian house Hermès for all their expertise in luxury leather goods chose to invest in acquiring historic English shoemaker John Lobb’s Paris outfit in the 1970s, operating parallel to the original family-owned shop in London till this day. It stands that shoemaking has always been a trade ubiquitously agreed upon to be best left to its master craftspeople.

At the Church’s Northampton factory. Photo: Church’s

Before wars throughout the 19th and 20th centuries and the consequent industrialisation age gave rise to mass production, shoes used to always be “bespoke”. Long before “bespoke” meant luxury, it was virtually necessary for the earliest shoemakers which did not yet have international size charts and could only commence crafting shoes after doing individual measurements. One would visit a shoemaker to get shoes made for oneself, rather than visit a store in hopes of finding a pair which could only approach the “best fit”. 

A Church’s craftsman carefully stitching on the welt. Photo: Church’s

It is then perhaps a collective amnesia which has displaced the fact that shoes have always been made specifically for comfort. While leather dress shoes or boots today get a bad reputation for being brick hard, blister-inducing and difficult to “break in”, leather rose to prominence in the earliest shoes precisely because it was sturdy yet flexible. Its versatility as a material was a rare one which met the demands of a variety of uses like horse riding, military combat and eventually, formal dress.

The Shoes Make The Man

The power of a well-fitted pair of shoes to elevate one’s gait and even esteem was not lost on famed stiletto proponent, Christian Louboutin. Louboutin had always insisted that a good pair of heels with the necessary skills required to walk confidently in them could transform the way a person looked, felt and acted, designing shoes with the goal of making legs look as long as they possibly can. Louboutin’s imprint can be found all over haute couture throughout the 1980s when he designed shoes for the likes of Chanel and Saint Laurent before founding his own studio in 1991, his influence and love of the stiletto reaffirming the forgotten truth of shoemaking — a trade crafting not mere accessories, but pieces central to both dressing and feeling well.

Think of the ubiquitousness of now classic silhouettes like those of Nike’s Air Force 1s or Adidas’ Stan Smiths — these leather-crafted performance shoes were the first of their kind in their respective sports of basketball and tennis, going on to become some of the most worn shoes in contemporary street culture. While performance technology has gone leaps and bounds ahead, these early sporting pioneers were exceptional for their time and featured heavily on the feet of professionals and street-side amateurs alike.

The late Kobe Bryant playing for the Los Angeles Lakers in a pair of Nike Air Force 1s. Photo: Complex Networks

Having the right shoes for the job is perhaps of paramount importance in sporting performance, but it speaks to something more ethereal to feel changed simply by putting on a pair of shoes. It speaks to not only the trust that we place in the shoemakers who made them, but also the sheer gravitas a pair of well-crafted shoes can imbue in a person. As that timeless — if not slightly outdated — adage goes, “the shoes make the man (person)”.

The Verdict

A science for its craft and an art for its spirit, shoemaking’s legacy continues to draw fashion back to its craftspeople for the final say on what makes a good pair of shoes. In that vein, it seems almost necessary for both Miu Miu and Church’s both to seek each other out for such a collaboration. For Miu Miu, it is perhaps a required salute to the art-science of shoemaking in their inclusion of such a timeless figure in their contemporary collections; whereas for Church’s, it is perhaps an opportune time to cast themselves back into fashion’s limelight and remind the industry why they are the masters of their craft — a two way revival.

Miu Miu fans hesitant to try on such formal dress leaning footwear will be relieved to read that the collaboration has opted for a silhouette “rounder and broader in shape than the originals that inspire them”, perhaps in efforts to lower the barrier for entry for buyers new to Church’s, and maybe also lost Church’s aficionados keen to reconsider investing in a pair of Church’s brogues without the growing pains of breaking in the shoes. As quoted from the official collaboration page, it is “the reassurance of the familiar… at once celebrated and subverted — undone — to create something new”.

Head over here for more reads on fashion.

The Fashion Evolution(s) of 2023

Peter Do putting together the Banana Republic capsule’s four-piece suit for a fitting. Photo: Philipp Paulus/ Banana Republic
Peter Do putting together the Banana Republic capsule’s four-piece suit for a fitting. Photo: Philipp Paulus/ Banana Republic

The fashion industry has made international headlines from luxury designers making high street collaborative collections to widely-recognised 90s supermodels’ endorsements, and it so happens to have coincided as we reach this year’s Spring/Summer fashion week calendar. As lead up to the coming New York Fashion Week, LUXUO looks back at the impactful movers and shakers that have caused ripples in the fashion industry.


Noteworthy Collaborations And Appointments

Helmut Lang helmed of his eponymous label from 1986 to 2005 and during that tenure Prada acquired a 51 percent stake of the company in 1999 before acquiring it completely in 2004. Between 2001 and 2004 saw the brand sales drop from US $46.3 million dollars in 2001 to US $24.8 million dollars in 2004. Since Lang’s departure in 2005 a slew of creative directors were brought in, each with their own take and sensibility however one concesus remained – the brand still lacked a clear direction. Enter Peter Do. As reported by Hypebeast, Do will showcase the Spring/Summer 2024 collection for the brand later this month during its showcase at New York Fashion Week (NYFW) and this will be Helmut Lang’s first NYFW runway show since 2020. So will Do deliver in ways his redecessors could not? Peter Do’s work combines mysticism and miminalism with a dynamically contemporary take. While time will tell if he can bring the “brand back to its former glory”, his creativity to go beyond predictability to the realm of provocative (from his tailoring to his silhouettes and fabrications) certainly make him a contender.

Peter Do with his back to the camera as usual, busy at work. Photo: Philipp Paulus/ Banana Republic

Just months after it was annouced that Peter Do would take over Helmut Lang as the label’s new creative director in May, Banana Republic annouced last month that Do would come on board to release an exclusive collaborative capsule collection. Set to be released both online and in physical stores this October, the collection will include a reimagined take on “Banana Republic’s quintessential shapes” with pieces ranging from structured outerwear to soft knitwear and utility silk shirting.

Fitting behind the scenes. Photo: Philipp Paulus/ Banana Republic

It is also interesting to note that Phoebe Philo the designer who took Peter Do under her wing at Céline is also making her return to fashion with her own independent fashion house with her inaugural collection set to be unveiled in later this month.

Read More: Luxury Fashion’s Ever-Changing Creative Directorships

Claire Waight Keller on the other had, has been tapped to launched a collection With UNIQLO. The 30-piece collection is comprised of a range of versatile, relaxed selections including outerwear, tops, skirts dresses and more.  “… I also wanted to bring my sort of British sensibilities—the fact that I’ve always loved a little bit of this boy-meets-girl style, and the idea of attitude dressing,” Waight Keller told Vogue.

Clare Waight Keller for Uniqlo. Photo: Uniqlo
Photo: Uniqlo
Looks from the Uniqlo: C collection. Photo: Uniqlo

In celebration of the 20th anniversary of the Billionaire Boys Club, the Pharrell-founded luxe streetwear label unveiled their highly-anticipated Moncler collaboration. The collection features the combined house logos that are comprised of the “BBC’s astronaut motif inside Moncler’s classic blue logo shape”. The new emblem makes its appearance on both the down-filled puffer jacket and Melton wool varsity jacket.

From one luxury streetwear label to another, Supreme’s creative director Tremaine Emory left the company last week, citing alleged “systematic racism…within the structure of Supreme” in his resignation letter. Emory was Supreme’s first-ever creative director when he first held the role a year and a half ago. His appointment came shortly after “the streetwear label was acquired by VF Corp, which also owns North Face, in a US $2.1 billion dollar deal,” according to a report by The Evening Standard.

Moncler x Billionaire Boys Club taps onto hip-hop artists Pusha T and No Malice for their Fall/ Winter 2023 collaboration. Photo: Moncler

The Year of Pivotal Acquisitions 

After coach-owned Tapestry announced that it was acquiring Capri Holdings, the Q4 fiscal year saw earnings fall short of expectations. The acquisition was initially intended to create a new fashion conglomerate to rival that of Kering and LVMH. According to Hypebeast, Tapestry reported sales of US $1.62 billion dollars, down from last year’s US $1.625 billion dollars and even further behind Wall Street’s estimate of US $1.653 billion dollars. 

Read More: Luxury American Company Tapestry to Acquire Capri Holdings in a Bid to Rival European Luxury Conglomerates.

The Return of the 90s Supermodel

The famed foursome comprised of Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Linda Evangelista and Christy Turlington reunited once again to front the joint British and American September 2023 Vogue covers. The cover also marks Edward Enninful’s last September issue as the the editor-in-chief of British Vogue.

Vogue US September 2023 cover
British Vogue September 2023 cover

The cover and spread (photographed by Rafael Pavarotti) comes in line with Apple TV+’s much anticipated, new documentary series dubbed “The Super Models” and over three decades after Peter Lindbergh’s January 1990 cover of British Vogue which is perhaps one of the most prolific editorial and fashion magazine covers of all time. The 1990 cover also featured the late Tatjana Patitz who passed away earlier this year.

British Vogue, January 1990

Alongside the cover of Vogue, 90s supermodels have also made a resurgence by becoming the ambassadors of multiple luxury brands. Naomi Campbell is the face of Boss’ Fall/Winter 2023 Campaign, Cindy Crawford fronts MCM’s Autumn/Winter 2023 campaign while Kate Moss is currently featured on both Diet Coke and Saint Laurent’s Fall 2023 campaigns. Last year also saw Linda Evangelista face the Fendi Baguette Winter 2022 Campaign while Kate Moss posed for Aigner’s Fall/Winter 2022 campaign. Take Kate Moss for instance, to continuously front a luxury campaign year after year is a testament to her staying power and legacy even with a large beverage brand like Coke (regardless of the “luxury” appeal). Nostalgia and sentimentality aside, why this cover is particularly poignant is the shift in the notion of what a “supermodel” is in 2023. Brands are opting to feature influencers with large social media followings in the new era of the “Nepo Baby” with the likes of Hailey Bieber, Kendall Jenner and Kaia Gerber. As models are continuously discovered online it appears as if social media prowess comes first, modelling “talent” comes second. Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Linda Evangelista, Christy Turlington and Kate Moss could very well be the last generation of the traditional “supermodel”.

Photo: The Coca-Cola Company

The Diet Coke Break Collection By Kate Moss features four limited-editions designs, inspired by Diet Coke’s archives, reimagined and rewritten by Kate Moss.

Kate Moss for Saint Laurent Fall 2023. Photo: Gray Sorrenti

Video: Youtube @yvessaintlaurent

So why now you may ask? While Gen Z are enamoured wth the Y2K fashion trends of the early 2000s (a “style” that Millennials are all to familiar with having grown up during the era), Gen Xers are seemingly left out as brands shift their aim to the burgeoning market of younger, Gen Z consumers at times alienating the Gen X demographic. That’s where nostalgia comes into play. Staple faces parents of millenials grew up with like Moss or Crawford connect a relevancy in the generation and cater to the nostalgia.

Cindy Crawford for MCM Autumn/ Winter 2023. Photo: Juergen Teller
Video: Youtube @boss

Naomi Campbell for Boss Fall/ Winter 2023. Photo: Hugo Boss

It is clear that September 2023 is only the precipice of change the fashion industry will see moving forward. With Peter Do cementing his legacy in New York as a design powerhouse to the return of Phoebe Philo and Clare Waight Keller alongside supermodels fronting both editorial spreads and fashion brand campaigns and Tapestry’s acquisition of Capri Holdings, this shift is perhaps the culmination of nostalgia, business strategy and brand ingenuity.

For more on the latest in fahion and style, click here.

Fendi x Marc Jacobs Capsule Collection Now in Stores

There are only a few handbags that define a decade, and the Fendi Baguette is one that is synonymous with the noughties. First designed by Silvia Venturini Fendi in 1997, the iconic bag was inspired by the French holding their baguette under their arms as they go about doing their daily activity. While its rectangular silhouette is the most recognisable element of the bag, the F-logo clasp has also become one of the staple design codes of the house.

The Baguette may have referenced the French but its popularity could be traced back to New York City. This was the city that Carrie Bradshaw, played by Sarah Jessica Parker, famously exclaimed: “It’s a Baguette.” Her character was seen carrying the handbag for different occasions while travelling to different places. And 25 years on, the handbag continues to be a fashion staple.

In September 2022, Fendi unveiled a special collaboration between Kim Jones, the house’s artistic director, and Marc Jacobs. An extravagant runway show was done in New York to celebrate the Baguette’s 25th anniversary, which was co-designed with Marc Jacobs, Tiffany & Co., Sarah Jessica Parker and Porter. A year later, Fendi is releasing a capsule for the upcoming summer: Fendi x Marc Jacobs.

“In my opinion, Marc is the King of fashion in America. He is also a master of branding and experimentation, particularly with logos,” said Kim Jones of Marc Jacobs’ collaboration with him on the capsule collection. “Here, Marc has designed a Fendi collection — it is not a collaboration, rather it is an interpretation. In it, there is a sense of freedom in excess and joy, where he was allowed to do whatever he wanted.”

This collection draws inspiration from New York City in the early 2000s and pays tribute to Fendi’s iconic Baguette design. Now available, the capsule collection offers a range of sought-after pieces perfect for summer, including the updated Baguette, Fendi Sunshine shopper, Fendi First, swimwear, and more. Marc Jacobs also lends his artistic touch to introduce a fresh interpretation of the Fendi Roma logo, along with bold, elevated, and larger-than-life monochromatic designs — both men’s and women’s ready-to-wear feature vibrant fluorescent accents. Fashion enthusiasts and handbag collectors alike will be captivated by these coveted pieces.

A clear departure from the current obsession with quiet luxury, where clean lines and being understated is the order of the day. The collection, with its sinuous lines, elongated forms, logo-filled pieces and jewel-encrusted embellishment, is a nod to New York City during the “Gilded Age”. 

The vibrant and urban essence of New York City is evident in the collection, where the sparkle of rhinestones and silver accents mirror the glass exteriors along the Big Apple, while neon yellow pops draw inspiration from the safety vests worn by workers. The utilitarian atmosphere is elevated with oversized parkas, ballooned skirts, and distressed denim jackets. Adding a final touch of flair, large fluffy hats and Baguettes adorned with Jacobs’ unique “The Tote Bag” typography perfectly complete the looks.

Being a native New Yorker, Marc Jacobs finds it easy to draw from his personal experience living in the city and being a prolific designer who had once helmed top luxury brands like Louis Vuitton. Designing this capsule collection was like a homecoming. 

“I’ve got one word: Fendiroma. And it is one word! It is another land, this Fendiroma… And I’ve got two words: The Baguette. It’s a bag — and I am never one to shy away from an iconic bag,” said Marc Jacobs.

For more fashion reads, click here.

 

Chanel’s New Boutique in Beverly Hills is the Largest in the US

Image: Chanel

The trendy city of Beverly Hills, California, is now home to the largest Chanel boutique store in the US. Officially opened on 5 May, the flagship store spans over 30,000 square feet and has four full floors to house the brand’s range of products from fashion, watches, fine jewellery, fragrances and beauty.

After over a decade of staying at its iconic Rodeo Drive location, Chanel has decided to rebuild and reimagine the space for contemporary times. The brand enlisted the help of its long-time collaborator Peter Marino in envisioning the space, and the result resonates strongly with Coco Chanel’s approach to dressing which is “less is more”. In other words, from the facade of the building to its interiors, the newly opened boutique is a masterclass on elegant restraint.

“A celebration of Chanel’s past, present, and future, the new, expanded boutique is housed in an abstracted exterior reminiscent of a staggered cube, cleaved by a multi-story glass atrium and clad in white crystallised glass,” said the brand in a press release. The choice of using black, white and grey is a nod to Chanel’s house colours, and this pared-back colour palette runs through the entire space.

Upon stepping into the boutique, customers are greeted by a pristine white environment adorned with slender display cases and vitrines showcasing Chanel’s jewellery, bags, fragrances, and other accessories. The ground floor combines elements representing the House’s iconic two-tone style where the luminous white plaster is paired with a different colour or material like cast bronze, interwoven textiles and grey wave stone. Directly above and illuminating the space are resplendent Goossens chandeliers crafted from rock crystal.

Image: Chanel

The first floor greets customers with a delightful arrangement of handbags and accessories on the right, while on the left, a sophisticated salon awaits which is solely dedicated to showcasing exquisite watches and fine jewellery. Continuing on, there will be a captivating fragrance and beauty section. Ascending to the second floor, customers will be captivated by the stunning display of ready-to-wear fashion. As one ventures further to the third floor, there will be two luxurious VIP suites, accompanied by well-appointed try-on rooms. Finally, the fourth floor beckons with its penthouse charm, boasting a rooftop garden adorned with elegant black framed aluminium trellises and offering unparalleled views of the iconic Rodeo Drive.

Image: Chanel

As keen advocators for the arts, the masterpiece of this boutique got to be the central artwork called “Golden Lasso”. The spiral art piece by French artist Jean-Michel Othoniel calls to mind an image of Coco Chanel’s pearl necklace. Other notable works include “Title TBC, 2022”, an abstract piece by Israeli artist Michal Rovner who said the inspiration was about a poppy flower blurred to resemble the effervescent nature of dreams.

Being a boutique in one of the most stylish cities in the world, customers will be able to shop the latest Spring/Summer 2023 collection designed by Virginie Viard. It is said that the creative designer was inspired by the French movie “Last Year at Marienbad”, for which its eponymous founder was in charge of designing the film’s costumes.  

For more fashion reads, click here.

Stylish Travel Luggage for Your Next Adventure

Louis Vuitton Horizon Luggage

First launched in 2016 by Marc Newson, one of today’s most influential industrial designers, the  Horizon collection represents a turning point for the storied maison thanks to its innovative design, robust construction, and exceptional usefulness. The ultra-lightweight luggage in moulded mesh composite is decorated in either the House’s Monogram or Damier design and trimmed with natural cowhide. As a trunk maker with years of experience, Louis Vuitton’s savoir faire comes through in the details of the iconic trunks. This is spotlighted on the trolley system — silent, miniature wheels with 360 degrees of directionality. The luggage interior is also carefully thought out, where its flat-bottomed space optimises packing space. 

In a new travel campaign called “Horizons Never End”, football world champion Lionel Messi only has his Horizon suitcase with him. Messi may be seen sitting in an airport terminal with his legs spread out on his Horizon rolling cabin luggage in a sequence of still photos taken by fashion photographer and videographer Glen Luchford. In another image, the football icon is seated on a famous Louis Vuitton trunk that is positioned among the airplanes on the tarmac, all set to embark on exotic journeys with his Horizon luggage.

Rimowa Essential Collection

To celebrate Spring’s arrival, Rimowa has expanded its Essential collection with two new seasonal shades: Petal and Cedar. These two colours showcase the captivating beauty of contrast originating in parallel worlds and the pursuit for harmony and balance in this seemingly uncertain world.

The subtle blush of pastel pink mirrors the radiant splendour of cherry blossoms, signalling the arrival of spring, while the refined brown tone of Cedar symbolises strength. When combined, these contrasting hues encapsulate the fleeting yet harmonious beauty of cherry blossom trees. Rounding up the new collection, several of Rimowa’s key pieces and accessories are also spotted in Petal such as the Personal Polycarbonate Cross-body Bag, Never Still Flap Backpack Small, Never Still Vertical Tote, Packing Cubes and iPhone 14 and 14 Pro cases. 

Tumi | McLaren 60th Anniversary Collection

As part of Tumi’s Spring 2023 collection, the latest campaign features Tumi crew member and McLaren Formula 1 driver Lando Norris. The collection offers a variety of limited-edition styles in McLaren’s signature papaya colourway, including the Torque Sling, Velocity Backpack, and Aero International Expandable 4-Wheeled Carry-On. Made to meet the needs of pioneers, travellers, and adventurers on the go, the 60th Anniversary collection offers a wider range of carrying options with the addition of packing cases and portfolios. 

New Balance | Samsonite Collection

When two highly innovative brands come together, expectations are high on what this partnership will entail. For the collaboration between Samsonite and New Balance, a collection comprising of crossbody bag, shoebox crossbody bag and hard-side luggage products are available for purchase in Singapore. Celebrating individual expression and versatility, the new launch “seeks to foster the love of exploration with a stylish, versatile collection that meets the lifestyle needs of every type of explorer – fuelling their drive to pursue their dreams fearlessly” as shared by the brand and this essence is encapsulated under the campaign’s theme of “Live Undefined”.

Embodying both aesthetics and functionality, each piece is designed with a semi-transparent hard shell that is juxtaposed with coloured reversible pouches. While the smaller offerings are made for everyday travel, special mention goes to the Rolling Tote and Spinner 61. The former is an 18-inch hard-side luggage with a large expandable pouch, while the Spinner 61 is a 22-inch hard-side luggage that comes with a large expandable pouch and two additional medium-sized pouches. Both are great travel companion for quick getaways.

For more fashion reads, click here.

G-Star Raw Embraces Artificial Intelligence to Design Its New “AI Denim Cape”

Innovative denim brand G-Star RAW is taking artificial intelligence to the next level, with a unique piece of denim couture that highlights how AI is being used in reality.

The “AI Denim Cape” is the result of G-Star’s design team working hand-in-hand with artificial intelligence app Midjourney to come up with 12 unique designs, using a series of prompts. The 12 resulting concepts are a unique combination of cutting-edge technology and timeless design.

One AI-generated concept was then chosen to be brought to life by hand in the G-Star atelier — resulting in an original RAW denim couture piece. Made from premium raw denim and featuring futuristic 3D ‘G’ shapes on the arms, an adjustable waistband, detailed stitching patterns on the chest and subtle G-Star branding on the left inner side, the AI Denim Cape combines new age technology with G-Star’s signature design aesthetic. As a one-of-a-kind garment, it showcases G-Star’s denim expertise and precision craftsmanship. Craftsmanship that only humans are capable of.

G-Star RAW has embraced AI it as a creative collaborator — using artificial intelligence to push the limits of denim design in an innovative partnership between technology and human craft.

Additional AI Design Concepts for G-Star

“Innovation is ingrained in the G-Star DNA. We believe in giving our fashion designers the freedom to bring their dreams through AI,” said Gwenda van Vliet, CMO of G-Star RAW. “While anyone could make a design using AI, at G-Star RAW, we have the craftsmanship to make those designs into real garments. We should see AI as enhancing the creative process, rather than taking it over.” The newly designed AI Denim Cape will be shown at the G-Star RAW Antwerp store, as the world’s first garment designed by Artificial Intelligence and created in the real world.

https://youtu.be/tawX8FU6hS8

For more fashion reads, click here.

Gucci Strengthens Ties with Yuga Labs

In the first three months of 2023, trading in the NFT space has grown significantly after almost a year of baseline growth. According to a report by DappRadar, trade volume levels in the Metaverse have reached new heights amounting to 147,000 transactions worth more than US$311 million. The giants of the digital space such as Yuga Labs, Blur and Decentraland were accredited to spurring activities within the different virtual worlds and other goods.

In particular, Yuga Labs’ Otherside Metaverse was the talk of the town as its NFTs recorded a transaction volume of US$222 million for the first quarter of 2023 or a 237 per cent jump from the preceding quarter. Furthermore, Yuga Labs announced a “Second Trip” to the Otherside in the coming months, creating even more excitement for the Otherdeed NFTs. The highest transaction during this quarter was 186 ETH, approximately US$2.85 million.

As more research and investments are made into the Web3 space, the potentiality of this market cannot be ignored, and it is perhaps time for brands to strengthen their ties to the digital space. One such company is luxury fashion brand Gucci, which has announced a multi-year partnership with Yuga Labs, the creator of the widely popular NFTs like Bored Ape Yacht Club, Cryptopunks, Mebits and Narrative Project 10KTF.

According to the press release about the partnership, this enhanced cooperation will improve engagement between the communities of the respective company “by exploring the intersection between fashion and entertainment in the Metaverse”. 

Gucci is not a stranger to the digital space as it has explored the virtual worlds over the past two years and taken the lead in creating an online universe for its fans. For example, it is one of the first luxury brands to host a Metaverse experience in The Sandbox, like the launch of Gucci Vault. Besides that, Gucci also announced their first NFT project — SuperGucci NFTs, where Gucci’s signature patterns adorn the animated characters from SUPERPLASTIC. The project was sold for over US$20 million.

The brand’s latest foray into NFT is a partnership with 10KTF, whose parent company is Yuga Labs. This project involves a virtual world featuring a fictional character, Wagmi-san dressed in Gucci apparel. Its other involvement in the NFT world includes “Guccifying” the famous Bored Ape Yacht Club and its associated family of characters like World of Women, Cool Cats and The Wolf Game. Not everyone gets to own Gucci-themed NFTs as these are exclusively released only for selected participants, which adds to the allure of being part of a special group.

“We are excited to unveil this multifaceted partnership with Yuga Labs, a leading and creative developer of Web3 technology,” said Robert Tryfus, Gucci Senior Executive Vice President, Corporate and Brand Strategy and Chief Executive of Gucci Vault & Metaverse Ventures, in a statement. “This will give us an active role in the continuing narrative of The Otherside and 10KTF, which manifests itself in many forms.”

“We look forward to showing how this partnership extends to endless opportunities among others,” Michael Figg, the chief creative officer of Yuga Labs, said in a release.

While the broader crypto market is still undergoing a “crypto winter” and its associated assets have suffered from sluggish sales, many pundits are not too fixated on the losses. Just like any business cycle, there will be peaks and falls, and these low points are where the markets will consolidate and correct themselves. Adding on to the nascent nature of this new asset class, the correction will help to cool down the heating market and prepare it for a better future. By firming its ties to the virtual world, Gucci will help set the stage for robust growth and perhaps help pull itself out of the stagnant growth that has troubled the brand for a long time.

For more fashion reads, click here.

Angel Jackets Review: Revolutionising the Leather Jacket Industry Since 2010

Leather jackets have been a staple in fashion for decades, and for a good reason. They offer a timeless look that never goes out of style, and they’re durable enough to last for years. However, the traditional way of making leather jackets can be costly and time-consuming, which is why Angel Jackets has disrupted the industry with its innovative approach.

Founded in 2010, a company that specializes in making leather jackets at an affordable price. They’ve managed to do this by cutting out the middleman and manufacturing their jackets in-house. This means they have complete control over the production process, from the design to the final product.

By cutting out the middle-man and manufacturing their jackets in-house, Angel Jackets is able to ensure that their products meet their own exacting standards. This allows them to offer their customers an affordable price point while still delivering a product that is of superior quality to what can be found elsewhere on the market.

Sustainability: Eco-Friendly Materials and Processes

One of the things that set Angel Jackets apart is their commitment to minimising the impact on the environment by not using polluting materials. They source their leather from reputable tanneries and use top-of-the-line hardware and zippers. This attention to detail ensures that each jacket is not only stylish but also built to last.

They pay close attention to the fit, ensuring that each jacket is tailored to fit the body of the wearer perfectly. Their jackets are also designed to withstand the elements, making them suitable for all kinds of weather conditions.

Hassle-Free Returns and 30-Day Satisfaction Guarantee

If for any reason, you’re not completely satisfied with your jacket, you can initiate a return within 30 days of receiving it. All you have to do is contact their customer service team to start the process. They’ll provide you with a return label and instructions on how to send your jacket back. Once they receive your return, they’ll process your refund within 2-3 business days.

Angel Jackets’ return policy is designed to give their customers peace of mind when shopping online. They understand that there can be concerns about the fit, style, or quality of a jacket when purchasing online, and they want to make sure their customers feel comfortable and confident in their purchase. By offering a hassle-free return policy, Angel Jackets is able to provide its customers with a risk-free purchasing experience.

Designing Your Own Unique Jacket

Another unique aspect of Angel Jackets is their recent startup of wholesale bulk customization. Customers can choose from a range of styles and colours and even add their own personal touches, such as patches or embroidery. This allows customers to create a jacket that is truly unique and tailored to their individual style.

Conclusion:

Overall, Angel Jackets has disrupted the leather jacket industry by making high-quality, stylish jackets affordable for everyone. Their commitment to quality, affordability, and sustainability makes them a company worth supporting. If you’re looking for a stylish and affordable leather jacket, be sure to check out their website here. Currently, the store is offering $20 OFF promo code AJ20 and Free Shipping.

For more fashion reads, click here.

Eubi Is the Australian Men’s Swimwear Brand Making a Splash in Singapore

Australian brand Eubi dove head-first into the launch of its swimwear in the Lion City, celebrating with a pool party at Orchard’s hip Lloyd’s Inn, complete with a bar and the opportunity for its fashion-savvy guests to try on and purchase its coveted swim shorts.

The brand’s latest collection of bold, colourful, and fun prints reflects the laidback spirit and quirky sense of humour found in its homeland — think subtle motifs of anchors, pineapples, or flamingos, in a range of hues, from varying shades of blue and charcoal to candyfloss pink and lemon yellow. 

Don’t let the sense of fun fool you, though; the swimwear has some seriously functional features, including flattering fits, four-way stretch for extra comfort, handy pockets, and extra support in the crotch area — everything the brand’s founders felt was lacking in men’s swimwear when they started Eubi.

The brand’s playfulness is also reflected in the advertising for its latest collection too, which features a pool-party scene of a trio of men stripping down to their Eubi swim shorts, diving and dancing synchronized style, to the catchy refrain, ‘You, you, you, you, you swim with Eubi’, which for Singaporean locals, translates to ‘Eu-yong with Eubi.’

For its Singapore launch, Eubi also injected a bit of Singlish (and humour) into its publicity—including the phrases ‘Free the Jiao!’, ‘Don’t say Bojio’ and ‘Xi Gua sweet Sia’ for its watermelon trunks.

“We’re thrilled to bring Eubi to Singapore and offer our unique range of swim shorts to the city’s fashion-savvy and adventurous crowd,” says Melvin Chee, Eubi’s co-founder, and CEO. “Our goal is to provide high-quality swimwear that is not only fun but functional, plus [gives you] a lil’ extra room to keep your ‘other’ goodies comfortable when you’re out making a splash.”For all orders over $120 or more, shipping to Singapore is free and will arrive within 1-3 days. But to help you celebrate Eubi’s launch, they’re also offering a 15 per cent site-wide discount until the end of March.

For more fashion reads, click here.

Louis Vuitton x Yayoi Kusama Reconnect the Dots in a New Collaboration

Justin Timberlake

If there is one surefire truth about today’s fashion — with its need for spectacles — everything revolves around collaborations. Collaborations between art, design, celebrity culture and fashion have been a driving template for quick success in the industry for years, and no brand has been truly free of its clutches. The persistent news flashes on unexpected releases and increasing pressure to outperform, how can brands create quality partnerships that truly stand out?

Enter Louis Vuitton, the French luxury Maison known for taking things up a notch in the game of collaborations. As a global powerhouse that reaches all generations, geographies and genders, the brand has always looked toward working with artists. Throughout its 169-year history, Louis Vuitton tapped into the dynamic and immense scale of the art world, allowing the brand to expand beyond the boundaries of the fashion sphere — think Jeff Koons and Takashi Murakami. After all, art is meant to be appreciated by all as it is unbound by the same political and gendered principles that dominate commercial fashion.

A prime example of the ideal art and fashion symbiosis occurred in 2012 when Louis Vuitton joined forces with famed avant-garde Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama with a series of capsule collections. Labelled the “ultimate fashion team-up”, the collaboration saw the jettisoning of House codes — where the artist’s “endless energy” became symbolic and stirred reinvention alongside evolution to create a memorable moment in fashion. It cheekily translated her visionary motifs into womenswear and accessories, shaking notions of fashion’s ability to create wearable art.

Ten years after their first collaboration, Louis Vuitton and Yayoi Kusama are betting on the power of the art world once more. The brand rediscovered its previous success with the artist at the end of 2022 with a first drop, featuring yet another takeover of Louis Vuitton’s classic offerings of ready-to-wear, accessories, jewellery and perfumes with Kusama’s infinity dots. For the first time and new to the release, menswear is included in the mix. The first drop revealed interpretations of the famed dots through multiple textures, as seen in the Painted Dots, Metal Dots, Infinity Dots and Psychedelic Flower collections.

For the second drop, the artist’s Radiant Pumpkins, colourful Faces, Flowers, and Infinity Dots and Nets are the focus and these motifs appear on Louis Vuitton’s Capucines and Monogram accessories.

Lea Seydoux

But do customers want more Yayoi Kusama? Fashion certainly does. Site takeovers of Louis Vuitton boutiques across the globe trended on Instagram, where it fired up conversations and further redefined the French Maison’s codes in the mass cultural consciousness. A second and final instalment will make its way to Louis Vuitton boutiques at the end of March. The 93-year old art-world legend has broadly encapsulated infinity as seen through the everyday wear in the capsule collection, and what could be her final piece of work through fashion is definitely one to be a part of.

For more fashion reads, click here.

LVMH Doubles Down on Menswear Market in Asia

Jimin, a member of the boy group BTS.

On the back of the menswear fashion season, several brands have announced new additions to their line-up of global ambassadors. At luxury fashion conglomerate LVMH, it has announced that Jimin from BTS will be its new global ambassador. He joins a coterie of South Korean K-pop stars like Jisoo from Blackpink, Sehun of Exo and Astro’s Cha Eunwoo.

Fellow stablemate Givenchy has also announced that Big Bang’s Taeyang has been appointed as its first male global ambassador. While over at Louis Vuitton, Chinese actor Dylan Wang is the brand’s newest global ambassador and starred in a video campaign for its collaboration with Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama.

Taeyang of Big Bang.

The spade of appointments at the brands under LVMH follows the reshuffle of its leadership at the different Maisons. Christian Dior’s CEO Pietro Beccari will succeed Michael Burke as Louis Vuitton’s CEO and Delphine Arnault, the eldest daughter of Bernard Arnault, will take the helm as CEO of Dior. Perhaps the cogs are already at work even before the new management assumes their roles next month — a greater emphasis on the menswear market in Asia.

According to the market research company Imarc, the global menswear market reached a market value of US$533.3 billion in 2021 and the firm expects the market to hit US$746.9 billion in 2027. The CAGR for the sector is predicted to reach 5.92 per cent between 2022 to 2027.

Supporting this projected trajectory is the growing appetite for fashion among men. Since 2016, sales growth for menswear has consistently outpaced womenswear as reported by Euromonitor. More recently, due to the rise of streetwear, demand for menswear shot up even more. Coupled with the general shift towards casualisation, it is unsurprising that luxury brands like Louis Vuitton, Dior and Givenchy are putting more resources into its menswear department.

 Other factors are also at play like the ease of buying via e-commerce, increasing purchasing power, the rising influence of social media and celebrity endorsement. These help to drive market growth and interest among male buyers. But more specifically, LVMH’s appointment of Asian ambassadors is telling of the group’s focus on the region. Spending power in the region has grown significantly over the years as income also increased in tandem. Asia’s GDP is forecasted to reach 4.5 per cent in 2023, as per a release by IMF.

Not only is the LVMH group focusing on its menswear department, but fellow competitor Valentino has also announced a new brand ambassador. Suga, another boy band member of BTS, will front the Maison’s Essentials line. For these newly appointed ambassadors, the common thread that binds them all is the influence that they hold.

Jimin, Taeyang and Suga were likely chosen because of the huge cultural power K-pop now holds in the world. More than just music icons, these artistes have now become the embodiment of style and assume the role of tastemakers. Furthermore, in a recent report by Morgan Stanley, South Korea is now the epicentre for luxury spending. The country outspends economic giants like China and the US, raking in US$16.8 billion in revenue and translating to a 24 per cent increase in 2022. The younger generation, who has grown up listening to their music will be greatly interested in emulating their idols and one of the fastest ways is through fashion. This presents an opportunity for brands to not only become associated with the ambassador, but it will also become the “trusted brand”.

Riding on emerging celebrities is a proven method for success, as with the appointment of Dylan Wang. The Chinese actor has over 17 million Weibo followers and the video campaign that he did for Louis Vuitton’s Yayoi Kusama collaboration received more than a million reports and close to 700,000 likes on the social media platform. Brands are definitely interested in making sure that they are at the forefront of the cultural movement and capture the attention of the burgeoning youth spenders.

Suppose one were to look at the various appointments at a macro level. In that case, LVMH is trying to prop up sales in the Asia region as tension in Europe and inflation is likely to dampen consumer confidence. As a precautionary measure to cushion the possible repercussions and continue its growth. The group is directing its effort to Asia, which is said to be the next economic powerhouse. With such huge potential, it remains to be seen who else would be chosen to be the next brand ambassador.

For more fashion reads, click here.

Dress to Impress with These Rabbit-Inspired Chinese New Year Collections

Getting new clothes for the new year is an age-old tradition during the annual Spring Festival celebrations. As with all time-honoured customs, the symbolic meanings behind are what people value as it emphasises the idea of change and leaving the “old” behind. Also, who doesn’t want to look good in the new year and make an impression? From Gucci to Dolce & Gabbana and Dior, here are some Chinese New Year Capsule collections to buy and kickstart your Year of the Rabbit on the right foot.

Gucci

An eclectic mix of colours, prints and details, Gucci’s Chinese New Year capsule collection is a playful take on the zodiac of the year: rabbit. Across the Italian brand’s men’s and women’s collections is a curated selection of silk blouses and graphic shirts with bold geometric designs in contrasting colours and a special iteration of its iconic handbags like the Gucci Diana totes and Horsebit 1955 shoulder bags.

Learn more about the collection here.

Fendi

For this year’s Lunar New Year collection, Fendi focuses on reinterpreting Marc Jacobs’ Fendi Roma logo in red and white. The re-envisioned colour palette is set to usher in “good fortune and joy” for the year ahead. From the knitted ensemble of skirts, sweaters and the signature bags such as the Baguette, the logo is plastered on the front and all around the ready-to-wear pieces. For menswear, Marc Jacobs’ declination of the Fendi Roman logo appears on pieces like sweatshirts, tracksuits and buttoned cardigans. To complete the capsule collection, the Fendi Flow and Fendi Match sneakers get reconfigured in the auspicious tones of red and white.

Learn more about the collection here.

Dolce&Gabbana

Dolce&Gabbana goes back to nature for its Lunar New Year capsule collection this year. The limited-edition release takes inspiration from the fauna and flora — particularly the rabbit and daffodil. “The Special Collection sees the rabbit and daffodils, which are symbols of spring and renaissance, as key elements, giving a new take on limitless vitality,” the brand explains.

Featuring three tones of black, pink and blush pink, the zodiac of the year is printed on an array of shirts, dresses, skirts and accessories. Surrounding the rabbit are floral elements, and these blooming details are also seen on heeled sandals and scarves. To add some fun to the collection, Dolce&Gabbana debuts the new Portofino sneakers with bunny details, which the brand says is a nod to intricacy and intimacy.

Learn more about the collection here.

Dior

At Dior, its Lunar New Year collection across men’s and women’s hark back Mr Dior’s love of gardens and the colour red, who saw it as “the colour of life”. At the former, Kim Jones collaborates with ERL to unveil a collection that is an ode to the Water Hare. Coming in a patch, the zodiac can be found in oversized version on knit sweaters, shirts, shorts and denim ensembles. The iconic animal embellishes the B27 Low Top sneakers, B23 sneakers, quilted Dior Oblique Mirage and the Saddle Venice Bag.

Elsewhere in the women’s collection, the capsule features the Jardin Magique, which is a print to celebrate the year of the Rabbit in 2023. Inspired by the magical gardens depicted in the novel “Alice in Wonderland”, the mesmerising pattern appears on denim jackets, silk t-shirts and cashmere sweaters.

For more information, click here.

Loro Piana

The rabbit, in Eastern culture, epitomises beauty, elegance, goodness and intellect is honoured by Loro Piana in its 2023 Lunar New Year Capsule Collection. As much as it is a celebration of good fortune, this special release exemplifies the marriage between ancient Chinese culture and Italian tradition and workmanship. The clothes feature a red rabbit motif logo on the brand’s signature yarns and fabrics like Baby Cashmere to Cashfur, which gives it a soft silhouette and a cosy fit.

For more information, click here.

For more fashion reads, click here.

Iconic Swimwear Brand Vilebrequin Is Making Waves

Optimal comfort and fit are ensured thanks to in-built briefs with no centre seam, and a carefully tailored cut promises to flatter every silhouette.

Founded in St Tropez in 1971, the iconic swimwear and resort wear label offers elegance on holiday and at home. It is best known for its premium men’s swim shorts, which feature bold colours and characterful prints, including the brand’s signature turtle logo. Each pair of shorts goes through an arduous 32-step manufacturing process — from the initial weaving to the final stitching of the label — and is meticulously crafted from a specially-treated, fast-drying polyamide. Optimal comfort and fit are ensured thanks to in-built briefs with no centre seam, and a carefully tailored cut promises to flatter every silhouette.  

While the summery swim shorts that it is known and loved for remain Vilebrequin’s most coveted items, the label has, in more recent years, expanded its range to encompass all manner of attire. In 2013, a womenswear collection was released, offering women’s swimwear, clothing and accessories, all imbued with that same spirit of St Tropez. A children’s range also exists, and seasonal collections are regularly launched — including an aprés ski collection and cruise collection — so that fans of the brand can sport Vilebrequin all year round across the friendship group and family. 

Don’t let its fun-loving prints fool you: Vilebrequin has a laid-back reputation, but it is serious about sustainability. As of 2021, 50 per cent of the label’s collections were crafted using recycled or recyclable materials, a figure that is expected to rise to 80 per cent this year. Furthermore, with the oceans as its top priority, Vilebrequin is deeply committed to marine conservation. It recently launched the Vilebrequin Foundation, an independent foundation that aims to protect our oceans by raising awareness, investing in research, and advancing the pursuit of innovative technology. Style and sustainability, what’s not to love?

For more fashion reads, click here.

Tiffany Baguette: A Celebration of Craftmanship at Fendi and Tiffany & Co.

To honour the 25th anniversary of Fendi’s iconic Baguette bag, the Italian fashion house has joined hands with American jeweller Tiffany & Co. to create an exclusive iteration of the bag. Dubbed “Tiffany Baguette”, this exclusive handbag is made entirely out of sterling silver and engraved with lilies and roses — the national flowers of Italy and New York State.

This one-of-a-kind bag is part of the Fendi Baguette “hand-in-hand” initiative, a grassroot partnership with local craftsmen across Italy. For the first time, the brand has looked beyond its home base and partnered with Tiffany & Co.’s “Makers” — artisans at the famed jeweller’s hollowware workshop in Rhode Island. The bag takes about four months to craft, and it epitomises the savoir-faire of both maisons.

A homage to heritage and age-old know-how, a unique silversmithing technique called “Chasing” is used to craft the Tiffany Baguette bags. Fendi further explains: “Typically, in silversmithing, shapes are formed out of the silver before any patterns or details are added. The sterling silver Tiffany Baguette, however, was crafted around the floral pattern itself.”

Weighing approximately 2,356 grams, the bag is both a statement piece and a work of art. And to accompany the metal version, Fendi is releasing a dedicated capsule of Tiffany Baguette bags in smooth leather, shiny croc leather embellished with diamonds and silk satin. The bags also come in various sizes: medium, nano and pico. This collaboration between two giants of the luxury fashion industry is representative of the long-standing house codes of both parties.

The fashion industry in 2022 saw a slew of notable collaborations from Gucci x Adidas to Dior x BirkenstockBurberry x Supreme and Louis Vuitton x Nike. And with this new collaboration between Fendi and Tiffany, 2023 looks set to be a year where partnerships will continue to reign.

For more fashion reads, click here.