Tag Archives: Fashion

The Brand Collaborations Dominating the Fall Winter 2022 Runways

Image: LVMH

The Fall Winter 2022 season of shows has proven how internet-breaking collaborations continue to bring fashion to the forefront of popular culture, with Gucci x Adidas and MM6 Maison Margiela x Salomon flooding everyone’s social media feeds.

The key to any brand’s success is remaining relevant to the target consumer and resonating with them through culture and consumer needs. This has become more vital in today’s heavily saturated world of media and in a time when consumer demands are amidst a shift as a result of the global pandemic. It could be why we’ve been seeing a surge in collaborations within the fashion industry.

It unlocked the ability to deliver a collection that is typically out of a brand’s typical design, in a refreshing and different style. Below are some of the most iconic runway collaborations in this season’s Fall Winter 2022.

Valentino x Pantone Colour Institute

Image: Valentino

For Valentino’s Fall Winter 2022 collection, Pierpaolo Piccioli focuses on creating an 81-look collection nearly entirely in a single, shocking shade of hot pick, unveiled against a backdrop of the same hue. A shade, developed in collaboration with Pantone, so catchy and energetic that it deserves its own name, “Valentino Pink PP”. He wanted to draw attention to the diverse silhouettes and details of a wardrobe that would transcend everyday needs and occasions. With this partnership, Pantone confirms that it is increasingly focused on establishing its hegemony over colour schemes, developing exclusive colours for companies and celebrities as a brand identity. Thus, Valentino moved from its signature red to pink.

Gucci x Adidas

 
 
 
 
 
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Bringing together the emblems of the Italian luxury house and iconic sportswear brand is the much anticipated Gucci x Adidas collection. The collection is a result of Alessandro Michele’s fascination with the old-school athleisure brand and the blend between the two powerhouses is shown clearly on the runway. With classic, athleisure silhouettes commonly associated with Adidas, as well as unconventional colour play and patterns quintessential to Gucci.

MM6 Maison Margiela x Salomon

 
 
 
 
 
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With an elevated utilitarian aesthetic, the collection takes form in boxy suiting with strong shoulders, seamless wool pea-coats with exaggerated peak lapels and sculptural outerwear. The moody silhouettes of the collection were enhanced by colourful sneakers in collaboration with Salomon, lug-sole running shoes and MM6s heel ankle boot. By blending tailored, contemporary, sportswear and avant-garde styles, the collection epitomises transitional design.

Dior x D-AIR LAB

Dior’s creative director, Maria Grazia Chiuri embraces the future of fashion through the collaboration with Italian-based brand, Dynamic Autonomy and Intelligent Robotics Lab (D-AIR Lab). The company is known for developing personal safety clothing that helps the wearer feel confident and protected in potential danger. For the runway, the garments struck a different level of confidence meant to give those who wear the pieces self-assurance. D-AIR Lab padding and materials are fused into corsetry and layered over artisanal dresses, which in a way is Dior’s pièce de résistance in sparking confidence in women.

Stella McCartney x Frank Stella

Introduced as STELLA BY STELLA, the Fall Winter 2022 collection celebrated the iconic American artist Frank Stella — one of the most important painters and sculptors of his generation. Presented at the historic Centre Pompidou, modern staples became wearable art. “His more linear early work lends itself so well to tailoring, and I love how he spans minimalism and maximalism, which has such a parallel with our brand,” said Stella McCartney. The playful garments are made with a colour palette and graphic prints that are an ode to Frank Stella’s abstract artwork, with stripes and geometrical scenes paying a tribute to his earlier minimalist artworks.

Loewe x Anthea Hamilton

 
 
 
 
 
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Like seasons gone by, Loewe Fall Winter 2022 promises to be a wonder-spectacle of dizzying proportions, wonderful details and the unexpected. The latest presentation from the Spanish-born fashion house comes directly from Paris Fashion Week, where artist Anthea Hamilton stages a series of sculptural pieces to accompany the runway. Just like Hamilton’s huge melting pumpkin sculptures that dotted the show space, the collection is a creative play on the usage of materials. That which should be soft and malleable, like leather, wool and organza, are moulded, felted and starched. On the other hand, materials that should be solid become plush, giving rise to unexpected silhouettes

2022 has been a year of non-stop collaborations. Following the hype of 2021’s collaboration frenzy — starting with Balenciaga and Gucci’s “Hacker Project”, and Fendi x Versace’s “Fendace” — the slew of inter-brand projects seemed to be relentless, never-ending and highly engaging. Allowing for new silhouettes, innovative designs and artistic interpretations, it seems as if collaborations are here to stay.

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Embark on a Summer Tour Down St. Tropez With Chanel

Image: Chanel

In July 2022, Chanel celebrated the links between fashion and music with a Mediterranean tour titled “Chanel Summer Tour”. Between fantasy and reality, the Chanel Spring Summer 2022 collection designed by Virginie Viard expresses an ethereal lightness. Bright, joyful silhouettes float amidst geometric structures in a graphic setting created by Xavier Veilhan. A decor evoking equestrian curves and constructive lines contrasts with airy silhouettes, delicate embroideries and precious flowers meant to welcome the silhouettes of the Spring Summer 2022 Ready-To-Wear and 2021/22 Métiers d’art shows, as well as the Chanel Coco Beach Collection.

Image: Chanel

The boutique is located in La Mistralée villa, a home away from home, presenting the brand’s various collections throughout the summer season, this elegant destination will be open from 8 April through to the end of September 2022. At the request of Virginie Viard, the Chanel ambassador Caroline de Maigret invited model Blesnya Minher and singer Angèle for the first stopover at the Chanel seasonal boutique in St. Tropez. The tour was accompanied by many other celebrities such as Chanel ambassadors Vanessa Paradis, Margot Robbie and Pharrell Williams.

Image: Chanel

On 12 and 13 July, a beige and black van with the double C logo was installed at the Villa La Mistralée, where Chanel has been taking up residence every summer for the past decade. Acting as a home away from home, the beige tones of the Roman opus travertine floor highlight the pinky-beige walls and the touches of black and white, allowing the villa to evoke the private sphere of Gabrielle Chanel.

Image: Chanel

It was in this welcoming atmosphere that the guests gathered, between games of pétanque, while the van transformed into a photo studio and the playing of vinyl records by musicians close to the House. The evening continued with a piano performance by Belgian born musician and Chanel ambassador, Angèle. It was then followed by a DJ set by songwriter Marine Neuilly. The following morning, guests attended a “Style Talk” — a conversation about style and allure between Caroline de Maigret and Blesnya Minher, where they discussed the heritage and inspiration behind Chanel latest collection and their impressions of the Chanel summer tour.

Overall, the two-day event was reminiscent of the cosmopolitan beach lifestyle of Monte Carlo. The celebration of Chanel’s history along Cote d’Azur was shown through sophisticated silhouettes of the collection and guests found themselves to be immersed in maison’s classic spirit of elegance, modernity and creativity.

Image: Chanel

Presenting Chanel’s various collections throughout the summer season, the seasonal boutique is now open till the end of September 2022.

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The Evolution of Haute Couture In The Modern Age

Image: Dior

For more than a century, couture has been emblematic of the triumph of craftsmanship and fashion. It represents the fusion of fashion — the modern entity that combines novelty and synergy with personal and social needs — and craftsmanship — the arts of dressmaking, tailoring, and crafts constituent to apparel and accessories. 

With a minuscule client base (approximately 4,000 worldwide) and an exclusive allocation of industry tickets for runway presentations, the practice can seem entirely fanciful and out of reach. In truth, the art of couture is a tightly controlled, invite-only application, governed by Paris’ Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM) with widespread influence on the fashion industry at large. But despite being the most extravagant, glamorous and expensive form of fashion, haute couture has seen a rapid decline in interest in the last seventy years. 

 
 
 
 
 
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In 2021 alone, interest in “Couture” has steadily declined by 13 per cent (according to Google Search data). In fact, only four of the top ten search queries related to “Haute Couture” are for actual collections: Chanel, Dior, Fendi, and Valentino. The idea of “glamour” itself has undoubtedly evolved with modernity.

Whereas glamour and luxury previously meant gowns, hand-made and embroidered with thousands of pearls, luxury today can be seen in the form of t-shirts, sneakers, and comically tiny handbags. So, rather than needing hundreds of thousands of dollars for a custom piece, consumers can buy into the luxury dream with a US$400 t-shirt. So how does haute couture fit into today’s modern, technology-filled, inclusive-prioritised fashion landscape? 

The Not-So-Humble Beginnings of Haute Couture 

Image: CoBo Social

While the phrase is thrown around liberally, the term haute couture has been building on its roots since the late 17th century. As France became synonymous with richly produced and innovative luxury silk textiles, the relationship between aristocratic and upper-class women and their personal dressmakers began to grow; and so too did the haute couture system. 

Founded in 1868, the FHCM preserves the exacting standards of French fashion culture by presiding over Paris Women’s and Men’s Fashion Weeks, as well as endorsing and nurturing designers who exhibit a quality of craftsmanship that meets the level required to show on the official Haute Couture schedule. 

Today, members are selected by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute couture. To qualify as an official Haute Couture house, members must design made-to-order clothes for private clients, with more than one fitting, using an atelier that employs at least fifteen full-time staff. They must also have twenty full-time technical workers in one of their workshops. 

Image: Dior

Couture’s elitist appeal is born from its exclusivity. It is a singular moment, made of peculiar rituals. The clothes are jewel-like creations reserved for an exclusive coterie of women, whose names are religiously kept secret by the maisons. Its purchasing process is shrouded in private showings with only a select circle allowed to enjoy a seat and marvel at the exquisite creations. In a world that is increasingly digital and manufactured — and thus infinitely replicable — couture is as traditional as it can possibly get. 

However, in today’s fast-paced, fast-fashion oriented world — where such a small percentage of the population has the wealth to buy Haute Couture — its slow decline was imminent. Combine that with the rise of independent designers and the rising appreciation for more independent and exclusive designers, haute couture is prone to becoming the next big fashion faux pas.

The Modernisation of Haute Couture  

Image: Ralph & Russo

There is nothing democratic about couture and proudly so. It’s barely touched by the fever of visibility which has made fashion the religion of our time. Couture is based on values that are totally out of time and in a world that goes fast, it is extremely slow. While the rest of the world embraces a visual language that is fluid and endlessly morphing, couture celebrates traditional codes, rituals and clearly defined gender divisions. In this sense, couture will never be truly modern.

Yet, in recent seasons, we’ve seen designers embrace modernisation and explore the definition of couture. “Markets, trends, and clients are constantly evolving, along with their spending habits,” says Tamara Ralph, designer of couture label, Ralph & Russo. “Over the years, we’ve witnessed emerging markets taking an interest in couture, and younger generations also taking notice. There has been a real resurgence in an appreciation for true craftsmanship, spanning all backgrounds and ages.” She adds. A representative from couture label Maisonn Rabih Kayrouz told Vogue France in 2018 that their millennial clientele has grown to make up a quarter of the company’s business. 

 
 
 
 
 
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In 2022, no longer is the craft restrained to stunning hand-stitched gowns covered in handmade sequins. Though prices are still cost-prohibitive for many, today’s haute couture designers are catering to a younger plugged-in generation by embracing more youthful designs, and understanding the the impact that intricate couture work can carry on Instagram. For example, Schiaparelli’s pendant-covered designs from Spring 2020 have gone viral. By the same measure, the mesmerising, nature-inspired styles of Iris Van Herpen have attracted a new era of stars. Her unique aesthetic dominated the 2022 Met Gala by custom designing pieces for Björk, Teyana Taylor, and Winnie Harlow.

And as designers look to court a younger generation of consumers, they’re no longer laser-focused on gowns, and instead have expanded into less formal looks, focusing on artistic intention and ways to mix heritage and creativity. As seen in the recent Fall 2022 Haute Couture shows, the fusion of Demna’s harsh yet poetic sensibility and the sculptural and severe codes set by Cristobal Balenciaga offers us a glimpse of what modern couture means while at Schiaparelli, designer Daniel Roseberry fused heritage and creativity through his own insouciant fixation for breasts and nipples with plenty of iconic references from Christian Lacroix and Jean Paul Gaultier. 

 
 
 
 
 
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Beyond the design shifts spurred by consumer demand, designers are modernising this niche fashion category by crossing into other areas of cultural interest like technology and art. We start seeing haute couture more as an art form and a way for designers to share their viewpoints and core beliefs. Dior’s Maria Grazia Chiuri addressed the current moment by taking inspiration from the work of Olesia Trofymenko, a Ukrainian artist whose favourite motif, the Tree Of Life, is a folkloric symbol of humanist hope inn cultures all over the world. Another example is Dior’s Spring 2020 couture collection, where creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri collaborated with the legendary feminist artist Judy Chicago. The show included an immersive space featuring banners emblazoned with questions around the show’s concept, “What If Women Ruled The World?” 

Couture’s offering of distinction in design and technique remains a compelling force, one even more potent when much other quality has atrophied. It remains a discipline of ultimate imagination, unaccountable to cost, with the paradox of being the fashion most cognizant of its ideal clients. It is, as it began, a dream of quality in an era of industry and its succession. Haute couture persists in providing us with a paragon of the most beautiful clothing that can be envisioned and made in any time and it is an industry that will only go onwards and upwards with time.

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Summer Fashion Tips That Never Go Out of Style

Image: Unsplash

Summer is a favourite season for many, especially when it comes to attire. Fashion blogs often flood the internet with the latest trends, summer must-haves, new outfits, and styles that are no longer in style. While you should look trendy, you shouldn’t rely on these blogs for unverified summer fashion tips. Below are some dressing tips for summer that won’t go out of style soon.

Jewellery in Earth Tones

Most people like complementing their outfits with various types of jewellery. While other seasons allow for diverse selection, you should stick to simple jewellery in earth tones during the summer instead of large statement pieces in jewel or dark tones. This includes bracelets, diamond stud earrings, and necklaces in gold, blue, pink, green, brown, or turquoise tones. These neutral colours match with more, if not all, of your summer selections.

Opt for Natural Makeup

There’s nothing worse than wearing excessive makeup on hot summer days. If you’ve noticed, most fashion icons prefer light or natural makeup during this season. Put away your dark shadows, heavy black eyeliner, dark lipstick, and heavy foundation. Instead, wear tinted moisturizers, natural eyeshadows, and pink, rose, or nude stains. You should only apply tinted moisturisers if you are attending an event. Include a liquid highlighter in your makeup routine to brighten your summer glow.

Loose Silhouettes Are Better Than Form-fitting

Image: Unsplash

You should choose light fabrics that easily float with the summer wind. During summer, you should dress to feel comfortable and cool. Choosing loose silhouettes can still evoke a chic and feminine feel without skin-tight clothes that cause excessive sweating. You should choose clothing made from light cotton, lace or crochet, silk, or chiffon. On-trend options include skirts, air puffy sleeves, and tiered dresses. Generally, the hot summer temperatures go hand in hand with flowy clothing.

Balance Your Outfits

Mini-skirts and short-sleeved tops are a common spectacle as temperatures rise during the summer. However, a fashion tip that transcends through different age groups is balancing the summer outfit. Decide whether you should go sleeveless with long skirts or covered tops with a mini skirt. Adhering to this tip ensures that your outfits remain classy. One such perfectly balanced trend is pairing a crop top with a maxi skirt. This combination satisfies the balancing rule and keeps your outfit effortless.

Prefer Light Colors

You should prefer light colours over dark palettes for your summer outfits. Summer and spring are the best seasons to bring out your ultra-feminine pinks, pastels, and light blues. Timeless summer selects, such as the white linen trousers and button-down, are an excellent option as they can be worn day and night without changing accessories. Besides the aesthetic reasons, light colours reflect the summer heat instead of absorbing it.

Colour Pop

With Print Colour popping with prints is another elegant way of softening your summer outfits. Colour popping has been an outstanding trend for several years, making your outfits more defined and thought after. If you’ve been thinking of this trend, you can don various floral prints in pastel or bright tones. Wearing prints also provides plenty of matching options. For instance, blue or neutral floral prints can be paired with jeans for the weekend or a tonal pencil skirt for an official look.

Accessorise With a Hat

Hats are not only an excellent summer fashion statement, but also protect your skin from the dangerous sun rays. Wide-brim hats are an excellent addition to your summer wardrobe that rarely drop out of style.

Chinos Are Perfect for All Seasons

Women’s chino shorts are available in various colours, fabrics, and lengths. However, they shouldn’t be reserved for resort weekends or boat trips only. You can opt for them as an alternative to denim shorts because of their comfort. They can handle the summer heat well and remain a staple fashion piece that can be worn any other time of the year.

Shades Are Useful

Sunglasses are essential during the summer for many reasons. Besides being a fashion trend, they protect your eyes from the harsh sun rays during the day while also giving you a bold sense of style. When selecting a pair, make sure you choose one that suits your facial structure.

While the sticky summer heat isn’t the favourite weather for most people, it provides endless opportunities for exploring fashion options unsuitable for most months of the year. With a handful of ideas, you can leverage various selects and clothing options to style yourself in ways that look classy and comfortable during summer.

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Tutus Kurniati Dresses in Black for the 75th Cannes To Make Stand Against War

Image: Tutus Kurniati

The very first Cannes Film Festival was canceled due to World War II, which began in 1939. The first film festival on the French Riviera rolled out the red carpet only in 1946 and since then has been welcoming guests from all over the world every year.

The war in Ukraine is happening right now and these brutal events have left their indelible mark on the May festival in Cannes. Guests choose bows in the colours of the Ukrainian flag as a sign of solidarity and support. The unprecedented performance of President Zelensky with an inspirational speech broke the standing ovation of the hall.

READ MORE: 5 Fashion Podcasts Sounding Off Social Advancement

 
 
 
 
 
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Tutus Kurniati, the owner of the eponymous luxury concept store in Dubai that dresses stars from Bollywood to Hollywood, trendsetter and influencer chose a black dress from Gemy Maalouf to showcase her own interpretation of the trendy “Got girl style”. For the second edition of the 75th Cannes Film Festival, Tutus opted for the same black colour, wearing a luxurious dress with a train covering her head from the brand LE999 to express her emotions about what is happening in the world.

 

A black dress today speaks not of restraint, conservatism, or just a sense of taste, but of sympathy and sadness. For exits on the red carpet, Tutus chose a dress with a lush black flower on the bodice and a multi-layered skirt, and a dress with a cape train – this is how she expressed her attitude to world wars: “Palestine and Israel, Russia and Ukraine”, —says Tutus, — “My heart hurts. I pray that the war will end.”

Image: Tutus Kurniati

But Tutus notes that even in such a gloomy time, it is important to notice the beauty and kindness of the world, not to lose faith in people and find time for a holiday.

As the owner of the fashion concept store “Tutus Kurniati”, Tutus uses her influence and authority, friendships with fashion brands and designers, and clients around the world to call for peace and support charities.

“The fashion industry has a huge impact on people”, said Tutus convincingly and if fashion can speak eloquently on important topics, it should be used for the good of the world.

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Alex Webb, Magnum Photos for Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello

SELF 07 by Saint Laurent Explores Works of Artists in 6 Different Cities

Image: Alex Webb, Magnum Photos for Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello.

The connection between fashion and photography is one of the most documented. Clothes and images have been a conduit for self-expression and each aims to tell a story. For Saint Laurent’s seventh instalment of its SELF project, creative director Anthony Vaccarello invited a group of high-profile artists to lens the brand’s personality and spirit through their own imagery styles. 

Simultaneously, Saint Laurent has organised exhibitions to showcase the artists’ works across six major cities like Paris, London, New York, Tokyo, Seoul and Shanghai. The artists involved in the SELF 07 project are Harry Gruyeart, Olivia Arther, Alex Webb, along with Magnum guest photographers Takashi Homma, Daesung Lee and Birdhead. With the aim to intangibly connect the world, the common thread that unites these different photos is the reverence for human intimacy, the natural world and the urban landscape.

Ahead are the six selected works from the talented photographers and what inspired them.

Harry Gruyeart

Image: Harry Gruyaert, Magnum Photos for Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello.

“I have always been fascinated by airports. They are places that concentrate everything that usually catches my eye as a photographer: the interplay of light, transparency and reflections, the effects of superimpositions that create a loss of reference points and give this very strong impression of being between two worlds. And then, there are the signs — arrows, numbers, letters — that mark out the frame. I have always liked the vocabulary of signage. When I was invited by Anthony Vaccarello to participate in SELF 07 for Saint Laurent, I immediately thought it would be interesting to shoot in this setting and to associate these images with some of the ones I had done before and which are gathered in the book Last Call.”

Olivia Arther

Image: Olivia Arthur, Magnum Photos for Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello.

“So not so” is a series that explores the human relationship with our bodies, our own physicality and the importance of touch and connection. Working with Anthony Vaccarello’s creations for Saint Laurent SELF 07, with movements, interactions, and play, I looked to show the way we touch, connect, and relate to each other. An exploration of the physical world in natural and unnatural forms is also key for me in showing the limits of our physicality.

Our virtual worlds have grown to become a genuine reality and as technology creeps we need to remind ourselves of the hard feeling of a hand on a wall or the clatter of pebbles falling over each other. Incorporating elements of make-believe and play, the real sometimes becomes surreal. And as bodies and heads blend in and out of the spaces around them, it is also intended to serve as a reminder of both our strength and fragility.”

Alex Webb

Image: Alex Webb, Magnum Photos for Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello.

“City streets are alive with vibrant colour, bold geometry, layers of light and movement, and rich diversity. They are the dynamic meeting places where the many worlds of the city cross paths, often in surprising and surreal ways. As a street photographer, I’ve long been drawn to the brilliant colour, searing light, and intensity of life that I first encountered in the streets of Latin America and the Caribbean.

So when I was asked by Anthony Vaccarello to photograph Los Angeles in the spirit of Saint Laurent for SELF 07, I immediately thought of three culturally-rich downtown neighbourhoods — the Pinata District, the Flower District, and the Fashion District — whose deep shadows, brightly painted walls, and vibrant streets are reminiscent of Mexico, where I’ve often wandered. This exhibition brings together my new work from the streets of Los Angeles in conversation with my past work from Latin America and the Caribbean.”

Takashi Homma

Image: Takashi Homma, Magnum Photos guest photographer for Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello.

“The City and Fashion. We live in a huge city called Tokyo. We, dressed in clothes, live and act in the environment of Tokyo. Our actions are in fact constrained and guided by the pressure of the city of Tokyo. I used the camera obscura technique to capture and exhibit the Tokyo environment that surrounds us. The city and fashion are always in a one-to-one relationship. I was pleased to have the opportunity to participate in Saint Laurent’s SELF 07 curated by Anthony Vaccarello.”

Daesung Lee

Image: Daesung Lee, Magnum Photos guest photographer for Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello.

“Spring 2020 was surreal but real. The whole world stopped. No one could easily describe such a feeling in words. Ironically, nature revived and came back to us once we stopped being indoors. Nature gave us back all the forgotten senses. The sky was so blue, more than ever, birds were singing so loudly out of my apartment window and the leaves of the trees in the streets were greener than ever. It was such a surreal experience. Since then, I no longer see the world in the same way. In the meantime, I often had to escape to an imaginary nature in my mind to stand the uncertain future. It was a strange spring. I attempted to visualise that strange experience during lockdown.

An imaginary nature, that you can only see in your inner self, that you can only feel in your own senses. We all lived in our own universe during that time. The SELF project was a unique, exciting, and challenging opportunity to explore and express my inner self in visuality. I hope you can also find yourself in these images. I especially thank Saint Laurent and Anthony Vaccarello, artistic director, and curator of the SELF 07 project for his constant support to artistic freedom of expression and creativity.”

Birdhead

Image: Birdhead, Magnum Photos guest photographer for Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello

“This collaboration is based on the format of photographic matrix — the signature style in “Birdhead World”. Inspired by the harmonic and symbiosis relationship between species that exists in nature, the work exhibits the tangible connection between photographs. The overall contour lines up the cityscape, clothing, and body with natural elements like clouds, trees, and stones. This outline combined with the structure of different light and shade blocks, creates a smooth and free sense of integration, just like the gesture of the cursive script in Chinese calligraphy. Each photograph consists of the work that is the original photograph taken in analog, without any cropping or reframing.

Additionally, through the SELF 07 project curated by Anthony Vaccarello, Birdhead adopted inverted negative photographic prints in their work for the first time. The characteristics of Saint Laurent’s SELF project provide a high degree of freedom, allowing artists to transcend boundaries and explore the possible new resonance of art and fashion in each special era from different perspectives.”

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The Importance of A Brand’s Archive

The Importance of A Brand’s Archive

Image: Versace Archives

Fashion, one day you are in, the next you are out and sometimes you might also make a comeback. Fashion archives tell the history of where the brand comes from and are often a reference for designers to remember the brand’s identity and create updated versions of the pieces.

Dior Archive Exhibition. Image: World Architecture Community

Ongoing movement to match modern relevance in fashion

Luxury fashion brands have established various uses for archival fashion pieces. They were mostly stored away for safekeeping; brands like Dior kept their archival garments starting from the 1980s in dress storage. The Parisian brand utilised the archive as a resource for the design department and a space for educational purposes for internal staff, high-profile clients and fashion students. Maria Grazia Chiuri, creative director of Dior’s womenswear, has always immersed herself into the house’s archive for reference, aiming to recreate a modern Dior silhouette while sticking to the brand’s roots. By being relevant to the times, a renewed look from past collections allows fashion houses to showcase their rich history in fashion.

 
 
 
 
 
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Today, luxury brands are featuring these archival and past collection pieces on red carpet events such as the Met Gala, styling them with new pieces and new faces. Nicolas Ghesquière, the Artistic Director of Louis Vuitton’s womenswear, decided to have an array of ambassadors of the house adorned in the previously worn garments. Reintroducing past collection pieces, the merge between heritage and modern style on one of the biggest stages in the world act as a tool to push the ongoing movement of the archives with modern relevance. Another reason for reintroducing past looks could be a marketing effort of the brand to relook into the past, in remembrance of the heritage and craftsmanship that Louis Vuitton encapsulates.

 
 
 
 
 
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Burberry also featured a capsule of classic signatures in its collection reinterpreted by creative director, Riccardo Tisci. He referenced some of the silhouettes of the archives, especially one of the house icon, the trenchcoat while reconstructing and reimagining it for today. These archival references aim to elevate Burberry in newer ways of garment designs, assuring customers to spend and keep up with modern fashion while still embracing its heritage.

Keeping up with modern taste while preserving signatures

For many years, Coach has also debuted handbags reimagined from archival styles. It was once a leather workshop crafting wallets and billfolds but has transitioned to designing high quality handbags with the help of Bonnie Cashin. She has revolutionised the handbag’s design to progress with the times as the 60s was a pinnacle of evolution in fashion. Her archives of bags range from side pockets, coin purses, and bright colours.

Coach vintage bags. Image: Yourgreatfinds

A particular feature throughout the bag was the silver toggle that became the Coach hallmark. Coach constantly takes references from it past bags and reiterates the design keeping its signature feature while pushing for more relevance in this era, accommodating newer and younger spenders in the market. This outlines the significance of archives where newer pieces take reference from past statements and solidifying these classic signatures.

Showcasing archives at events

Social media darling and model Bella Hadid had the privilege to wear archival dresses recently and she aided the idea of the “old meets new” concept. At the 2022 Met Gala, she wore a Fall/Winter 2004 Jean Paul Gaultier dress, which the team allowed her to pick from its archives for the event. The archival piece caught the eyes of the media that subsequently created conversations across many social media platforms. The conversations gained traction and revived interest in the storied designer, who stood to gain a bigger customer base.

 
 
 
 
 
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Hadid also showed up at the 2022 Cannes Film Festival in a string of Versace‘s archival dresses from the 80s and 90s. The model enlisted the help of her stylist friend, Law Roach, who was in contact with the famed Donatella Versace and the designer opened up the brand’s archives for them. The brilliant gesture from Donatella promoted her late brother, Gianni Versace’s 1987 dress, on a new stage. It emphasised luxury vintage could be firmly relevant in today’s age of fashion economy, boosting greater awareness and widening its horizon of the newer consumer market. Furthermore, similar to Jean Paul Gaultier, these events promote talks on the revival of archives on stage that potentially boosts fashion brands’ awareness among newer audiences who might not have been born when these legendary designers ruled the runways.

With the media always spotlighting fashion styles at prominent events, it exposes the competition within brands and pushes fashion to a greater level, bringing in newer or perhaps never seen before looks. The power of the different usage of archives shifts how the market reacts to pieces and styles. This becomes engaging as we could visually connect to the way archival garments are shown, while brands could curate the future of fashion.

Efforts that conserve fashion archives

As we look further into how fashion has reinforced its role in modern culture, brands are thinking carefully about their archives. The fashion house, Paco Rabanne, disclosed they would sell NFTs of its most conceptual pieces and use the profits to fund its archive. This includes buying back archival garments, sketches, image rights, video and radio recordings of the designer himself and improving preservation and storage. Retrieving archives builds the heritage and fundamentals of the brand’s starting years. Archiving is an important task for brands to track their journey and provide evidence of their works. It also helps with the identity and understanding of brand cultures over time.

Paco Rabanne’s dress NFT. Image: Trendsmap

Another luxury fashion house Valentino has also embarked on its journey to conserve their own fashion archives. Valentino’s creative director, Pierpaolo Piccioli, has launched the second phase of the house’s sustainable vintage initiative following the first launch in October 2021. With a collection of vintage garments, phase two aims to host the pieces from the collection in four selected vintage stores worldwide. Each of these stores offers consulting services where customers could obtain all the information on the specific piece. With this opportunity, many could rediscover their love for the brand or simply fall in love with the founder’s original sensibilities. It is an initiative born from the idea of giving back to those that treasure these pieces while also promoting sustainable vintages.

Brands today showcase and bring back past classic silhouettes to accommodate the luxury fashion market’s penchant for future timeless pieces. Consumer demand for luxury fashion is ever-growing and various brand’s fashion archives have proven to be a rich resource for marketing to untapped audiences, both young and old.

For more fashion reads, click here.

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Roar in style with Panthère de Cartier

It dates back to 1941 when the panther first made an abstract appearance on a ladies’ wristwatch juxtaposing onyx and diamonds designed by Louis Cartier. In 1933, Jeanne Toussaint, whom Louis Cartier affectionately nicknamed “La Panthère”, took over the helm at Cartier and fleshed out the big cat in three-dimensional creations for the first time in 1935, setting the stage for Cartier jewellery’s signature artistry.

Fast-forward to the present, Cartier’s dearest emblem, the panther, makes its mark on the newest Panthère de Cartier bag in a nod to Toussaint’s creative heritage.

Fluid lines and a structured silhouette meet in this top handle to evoke the panther’s fierce elegance and magnetic allure. Its façade is completed with a jewel clasp – C for Cartier, but if you look closely, it’s a finely sculpted bangle featuring the movement of the panther. Different sizes of black lacquer spots emulating the feline’s rosettes adorn the clasp to give it life and motion.

Cartier’s accessories design studio worked closely with its High Jewellery sculptors to seamlessly translate luxury and versatility into every detail of the Panthère de Cartier bag.

Its minimalist proportion is presented in calfskin with scratch-resistant wavy grained texture and sheen, making it an ideal 9-to-5 ally. Together with the handle, the adjustable and detachable strap ensures different styling options. To top it off, its roomy interior is equipped with thoughtful compartments, pockets and portable mirror.

Visit cartier.com to find out more.

The good, the bad & the ugly of fast fashion collaborations with luxury designers

The global fashion industry has an estimated value of slightly over 3 trillion dollars; while traditional luxury fashion conglomerates which hold brands like Gucci, Prada, and Louis Vuitton, have maintained strong positions globally, the rapid growth and reach of fast fashion purveyours led by giants like Zara, Forever 21, and H&M have been utilising a controversial strategy of copy-catting runways and then delivering them to market at the speed of the internet. The combination of versatility and affordable pricing makes them a compelling choice for middle income and even some high end consumers who might prefer to spend more on ultimate experiences. Once upon a time, high end brands believed copycats were not only eating their share of the pie but were also creatively offensive, sparing no expense at the courtrooms with lawsuits. However, the utilitarian nature of clothing and thus fashion, makes it difficult to enforce intellectual property protections since “Creative elements of a design that can be separated from the functional elements are subject to protection”. Hence, fast forward, designers, and luxury brands, have reached a somewhat comfortable detente with fast fashion. Or have they?

The Good, The Bad & The Ugly of Fast Fashion Collaborations with Luxury Designers and Brands

Oddly, it may sound counterfactual but a 2014 study by Carnegie Mellon University PHD candidates actually found that “Contrary to the conventional wisdom, we find that prohibiting low-end copycats can decrease the demand of high-end brands significantly.” In that regard, the fashion world has grown increasing comfortable with the letter “X” as a result. Often associated with brand collaborations, ‘SUPREME X COMME DES GARÇONS SHIRT’, for example, have become a staple trend between high end, streetwear and fast fashion, igniting social media feeds with announcements unveiling their latest collaborations to great hype. From Vivienne Westwood’s capsule collection for Burberry to Kim Jones for Dior’s menswear, everyone has acknowledge its impact of bringing influential brands and people together for a solid collaboration.

Louis Vuitton and Supreme, which sold out at eight dedicated pop-ups around the world and has increase in resale value on platforms such as eBay. You can currently buy a red keepall for just under £14,000 on the latter, almost six times the original retail price. Such luxury collaborations have proven its success and economic sense over the years and the word ‘collaboration; has been part of fashion’s everyday language.

#FFFMilanoForGreen: Fashion Film Festival Milano brings up green issue

Fact: From wastewater to toxic chemical and textile waste, fashion industry represents one of the biggest polluters in the world.

Coinciding with the coming Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2019, Fashion Film Festival Milano (FFFMilano) is back for its fifth edition between 20th to 25th September 2018.

Themed #FFFMilanoForGreen, FFFMilano 2018 has decided to call out the elephant in the room – the ongoing issue of sustainability within the fashion industry.

Receiving more than 200 submissions of fashion films worldwide, #FFFMilanoForGreen features the works of rising young talents, as well as prestigious houses like Prada and Hermès.

Photo courtesy: fashionfilmfestivalmilano.com

Taking this opportunity to raise awareness towards fashion industry’s green makeover and spreading knowledge of consumer ethics, FFFMilano will be holding special screenings and conversations with the jury and activists for sustainable fashion.

A new category ‘Best Green Fashion Film’ will also be introduced during the festival.

The global jury includes Ana Lily Amirpour, who won the Special Jury Prize 73rd Venice International Film Festival; British photographer Max Vadukul, who was first discovered by Yohji Yamamoto in the 80’s and has been working with Italian Vogue, French Vogue, The New Yorker; Orsola de Castro, Founder and Creative Director of Fashion Revolution; Pablo Arroyo, Creative Director of L’Officiel Hommes France and more.

On the topic of fashion sustainability and ethics, we’re also lucky to have designers like Stella McCartney and Vivienne Westwood to be our allies, as well as Versace and Maison Margiela who declare fur-free earlier this year, following the likes of Gucci, Givenchy and Michael Kors.

We have come a long way, we still have a long way to go.

To find out more about #FFFMilanoForGreen, visit www.fashionfilmfestivalmilano.com.

This article was originally published on www.lofficielmalaysia.com.

5 show-stopping moments of Alexander McQueen’s career

 

The wait is almost over as U.K. will be the first country to view Alexander McQueen’s documentary on 8th June.

Set to show in the Picturehouse Central in London on 8th June 2018, the Alexander McQueen’s film, titled “McQueen”, had the fashion world to rave about.

The film will delve into the life and career of Alexander McQueen with the exclusive interviews with his closest friends, footage of fashion shows, portray of his beginning career, his appointment on Givenchy and others.

According to Variety, Embankment Films, a film financing company had close deals with film distributors in Germany, Switzerland, Benelux, Japan, Australia and Scandinavia. That means the countries mentioned probably have the chance to view the movie, besides U.S. and U.K.

 

While we are waiting for the release of the movie, let’s us refresh 5 iconic moments from Alexander McQueen’s illustrious career.

 

Robotic spray from Spring 1999 fashion show

Dubbed the No.13, the Spring 1999 show was his thirteenth collection and one of the most memorable shows he has ever created.

At the end of the show, supermodel Shalom Harlow was seen standing on a revolving wooden platform wearing a white strapless dress with a tulle underlay and fastened by a belt. She twirled her body slowly as she confronted by two moving robots.

The most unforgettable moment was when she was sprayed with paint by the robots leaving her dress spattered in colours. Highlighting the concept of Arts and Crafts movement, the show was definitely something new that you have never seen back then.

 

The hologram of Kate Moss on Autumn 2006 fashion show

Paying tribute to his Scottish background and re-imagining the creation of his “Highland Rape” Autumn 1995 fashion show, the collection was imbued by the Scottish fantasy heroines.

On the fashion show, the models wore extravagant hairdresser strutted around the giant pyramid.

During the finale, the lights dimmed and a spirit like visual appeared inside the pyramid. It was Kate Moss, who wore an ethereal gown, floating inside the pyramid via hologram projection. Nothing could describe it but hauntingly beautiful.

 

You can read an exclusive interview with the directors of McQueen here.

 

The Armadillo boots from Spring 2010 collection

One of the final collections helmed by the late British fashion master, Alexander McQueen did not disappoint us as usual.

This fashion show steered clear of his usual mind-blowing concepts for the presentation of clothes; rather he focused on a way to make his fashion accessible by the public.

Enabling live-streaming for the first time, the fashion show started with a recorded video of a naked model laying on the sand was writhing her body while being covered with snakes. Then two gigantic cameras leaned towards the audiences to get a close-up shot and returned to the runway to project the catwalk.

Above all, the real standout from the fashion show was the footwear. Two striking creations, the Armadillo boot and Alien shoe stole the attention of everyone on and off the runway.

 

Ring of fire at the Autumn 1998 fashion show

Alexander McQueen would never let us bored for a second in his shows, even it was back in the ’90s.

Following 1997’s concept of water fashion show, he turned to the idea of fire in 1998, delivering a show rife with darkness and anger.

At the end of the show, the closing model donned in red fringed dress stood at the middle of the runway where a ring of fire shot up and surrounded her while she struck eccentric poses.

The collection as well as the closing act were the reference to the execution of Mary, Queen of Scots, murdered Romanov children and Joan of Arc – all under the themes of martyrdom and persecution associated with blood and violence.

 

The naked girl from Spring 2001 Voss show

Alexander McQueen did it again with his breathtaking Spring 2001 collection.

Celebrating nature and dubbed “Voss”, – the name of a Norwegian town renowned as a wildlife habitat – some of the pieces from the collection were constructed razor-clam, mussel and oyster shells and the entire show manifested madness and incarceration.

Looking back at the fashion show, the show was presented in an enormous glass box, which resembled a padded cell in a psychiatric hospital.

The entire show was astonishing especially the unpredictable ending – the glass box shattered to reveal the naked fetish writer Michelle Olley.

 

Watch the trailer of Alexander McQueen’s documentary below

6 luxury brands that are going fur-free in 2018

This year is a complete turnaround for the fur industry as a list of luxury fashion houses have started to abstain from fur for their collections, following the footsteps of other brands like Calvin Klein, Stella McCartney and Tommy Hilfiger that have stopped using fur years ago.

So, let’s do a quick refresh and see which other brands have joined in the ranks to go fur-free:

 

Gucci

Starting from its Spring Summer 2018 collection, Gucci has gone completely fur free. Under the heft of the new policy, Gucci will cease the use of fur from mink, coyote, racoon dog, fox, rabbit and other species bred for making fur.

This plan finally came into operation after a few months Gucci president Marco Bizzarri and its creative director Alessandro Michele discussed the matter.

Bizzarri says, “Do you think using furs today is still modern? I don’t think it’s still modern and that’s the reason why we decided not to do that. It’s a little bit out-dated”.

 

Michael Kors & Jimmy Choo

Michael Kors is another brand to go fur-free at the year of 2018, along with its newly acquired shoe label Jimmy Choo. 

Committing to the fur-free pledge, both brands will phase out products with fur by the end of December 2018.

Michael Kors’ chairman John D. Idol says, “This decision marks a new chapter as our company continues to evolve its use of innovative materials”.

 

VERSACE

In a recent interview with The Economist’s 1843 magazine, Donatella Versace revealed that her family’s eponymous brand will turn its back on fur.

Joining the ranks of fur-free luxury houses, Versace has cottoned on the animal cruelty. Known for its glamorous style, fur has been a staple in its collection including mink, racoon dog and fox.

On the decision, Donatella said, “Fur? I am out of that. I don’t want to kill animals to make fashion. It doesn’t feel right’.

 

Maison Margiela

The inspiration behind the decision of going fur-free is a unique encounter for the creative director of French fashion house, John Galliano.

Being described as a fated encounter, John Galliano ran into PETA senior vice president Dan Mathews in Saint-Tropez.

He revealed it to Elle France, “One summer, I was swimming in the sea with Penélope Cruz in Saint-Tropez. And just then, Dan’s face popped out of the water. It was like in Jaws, very frightening!”

 

Furla

For Furla, the Italian fashion house will go completely fur-free in November with their resort collection.

According to WWD, the fur ban is influenced by their growing number of ethical consumers.

CEO of Furla, Alberto Camerlengo, revealed, “The decision to progressively ban from the collections the use of animal fur is a project that confirms the brand’s increasing interest in the environment, with particular attention to the animal world, to which Furla is very sensitive. The decision, moreover, responds to the growing request for ethical products by consumers who are more and more aware and attentive to these themes.”

 

 

Other brands who have already banned the use of fur include: Armani, Calvin Klein, Donna Karan, Hugo Boss, Kate Spade, Ralph Lauren, Stella McCartney, Tommy Hilfiger, Vivienne Westwood.

Mercedes-Maybach S650 now has a matching luggage collection

Officially showcased in the 2018 Geneva Motor Show, the all-new Mercedes-Maybach S650 has been on every car-lovers lips and now there’s more to hype about the coming release in 2019.

Now Mercedes has launched a luxury travel collection to let you have a piece of the Maybach S650 wherever you go.

Featuring a travel bag set, garment carrier, shoe bag, key ring and matching key wallet, the Mercedes Maybach S650 travel collection comes in several colour combinations: satin red, titanium grey, deep blue, and silk-beige.

And this collection also features a sleek pair of aviators to complete that luxe travel look, which you can get your hands on in the coming June 2018.

The collection will be available at Maybach – Icons of Luxury boutiques in Berlin, Munich, Vienna and Abu Dhabi as well as online at www.maybach-luxury.com.