Chanel perfume is not only one of the most popular French perfume brands, but in fact one of the most popular in the world. Founded by Coco Chanel in 1910, the house has produced multiple legendary fragrances, from their world-renowned Chanel No. 5 to their botanic-inspired Gabrielle perfume. Amongst these celebrated scents, comes another equally notable release: Sycomore by Chanel.
Chanel’s Sycomore was first introduced to the world in 1930 by the brand’s renowned original perfumer, Ernst Beaux. Crafted with the help of Coco Chanel herself, it’s become an iconic scent that still plays an important role in the maison today. The original 1930 scent was all violet and tobacco with some support from soft aldehydes and balsamic wood. Smoky and earthy, it had a hint of cypress and created an incredibly elegant scent that is both richly masculine and sophisticated. In 2008, it was re-envisioned and re-introduced as part of Chanel’s prestige collection titled “Les Exclusifs”. It was created by Chanel’s in-house perfumer, Jacques Polge, along with an equally renowned “nose” in the industry, Christoper Sheldrake. It was described by Chanel as a scent filled with vetiver, notes of sandalwood, dashes of cypress and juniper.
Image: Chanel
Now, in collaboration with Maisons d’art, Chanel has employed in-house perfume creator, Olivier Polge, to revitalise the scent into a more intensified version of Sycomore. It leaves a powerful and enveloping trail, amplifying its sensuousness. Paired with notes of iris and subtly enhanced by accents of leather and vanilla, it pays homage to the original 1930s scent.
The highly precious nature of this new interpretation is showcased in an ultra-limited edition case, crafted as a series of 20 numbered pieces. The perfume is presented in a Baccarat crystal bottle, sealed with a fine baudruche and stamped with the Chanel double C to preserve its precious scent. It’s paired with a luxurious coffret embroidered by the Maison Lesage artisans. The finest raw materials found in the coffret are represented through embroidery in a rich autumnal scene depicting the olfactory atmosphere of Sycomore. It acts as a canvas for amethyst bicone beads and passementerie pearls, combined with pink peppercorns, dried juniper berries and thin wood shavings. When intertwined with the fold threads, it recalls the amber hue of the fragrance and the sycamore forest floor, creating an experience that both delights the nose and the eyes.
Each numbered piece of the Sycomore Eau de Parfum is a true collector’s item, acting as an item that celebrates both the excellence of Chanel’s perfumer and the unique craftsmanship of embroiderer Lesage. The bottle is available starting from September 2022.
2021 saw a surge in many people’s interest in self-love and self-care, it may have been due to the pandemic where we were restricted to the confines of our own homes and the most immediate needs to address were the two. Then, there was the growing trend of emulating “going-out” habits to preserve our sanity — why wear perfume only when one is heading out, how about smelling yourself when you’re WFH?
As several borders are opening up, the inward introspection is slowly and naturally translated back to their outgoing nature. Also, we are going back to the most asked question when it comes to fragrance: what does smelling good mean to someone other than yourself?
In a market where every leading pop star has their own fragrance, it can be difficult to identify just one that might suit a particular mood or even one that you will strongly identify for a long time to come. Therefore, we thought it would be interesting to shed light on some iconic fragrances and the erudite noses behind them who have set almost insurmountable precedents for modern perfumes, to provide a base and further narrow the search for the elusive ideal scent of you.
Chanel N°5 by Chanel, Perfumer Ernest Beaux, 1921
Image: Chanel
In the world, there is only one Chanel N°5 and it stands uniquely apart from other contemporary perfumes. It was Coco Chanel’s vision of authenticity that birthed the legendary scent and Chanel N°5 has become largely synonymous with a luxurious lifestyle, elevating vanities all around the globe for the past 101 years.
The master perfumer behind this scent was Ernest Beaux. The origin of this iconic fragrance began when Beaux created a scent that would allow the wearer to not just smell like a rose, a typical floral note, but to conjure a scent that elicits a modern woman.
Ylang Ylang flower. Image: Beezzly
The final formula, which debuted in 1921, has notes that include jasmine, ylang-ylang, may rose and sandalwood, along with a copious amount of aldehydes that give the perfume its distinctive easy and simple scent much like fresh laundry. The aldehydes content in Chanel N°5 makes it outstanding with the right balance of raw materials that together concocts a smooth and complex smelling fragrance with beautiful development. The result is an unforgettable signature of Ernest Beaux and Coco Chanel.
Ernest Beaux. Image: Fragrantica
Traditionally, respectable women wore perfumes that smelled like singular flowers while salacious and more racy ladies stuck to more bold scents such as musk or jasmine. By choosing a scent that blended the sensual attraction of jasmine and musk, sweet-smelling flowers and aldehydes, Beaux created a scent that pushed the boundaries of perfumes as an indication of social status and demonstrated the contrast of the ingredients used.
The high percentage of aldehydes of Chanel N°5 allowed the fragrance to linger on the wearer’s skin for a long period of time and this became the golden standard for later scents as modern-day women entered the workforce.
However, some consider Jicky by Aimé Guerlain which was released in 1889, to be the first modern perfume. Instead of emulating the smell of flowers, Jicky was also a combination of natural and synthetic ingredients that created a scent that was versatile for any occasion.
Jicky by Guerlain, Master Perfumer Aimé Guerlain, 1889
Image: paris la douce
Jicky was created in 1889 by Aimé Guerlain. The interesting tale behind the creation of this perfume was that Aimé Guerlain created it in memory of a lady he loved whose nickname was “Jicky”. It was considered to be one of the very first “modernised” creations of fragrances along with Chanel N°5, in terms of its use of synthetic extraction and production. But unlike its counterpart, Jicky was a unisex scent.
Aimé Guerlain. Image: Fragrantica
In fact, Jicky was originally promoted as a men’s fragrance before the family-run company struggled with sales and decided to market the scent to women to boost sales. In the following years, there were winds of change in the fragrance world. Synthetic ingredients were gaining prominence and Aimé Guerlain gladly embraced this new trend. Soon, including new man-made materials became a unique style of Guerlain’s perfumery which endures even to the modern day.
Aimé Guerlain’s most famous creation, Jicky, was the first to include the identifiable “Guerlinade”, a secret accord of notes that is like a secret “code” to recognise a Guerlain scent on someone. The addition of a blend of coumarin and vanillin offers a new dimension to its otherwise vibrant citrusy-herbal nature. The newly discovered synthetics ingredients and a blend of gourmand elements give Guerlain its distinctive signature scent through its range of perfumes.
Coumarin. Image: Dr. Axe
Aimé Guerlain’s Jicky opens up the way for such distinctive and trendsetting scents like Guerlain Shalimar (1925), Chanel Bois des Iles (1926), Must de Cartier (1981), and Christian Dior Dune (1992).
Shalimar by Guerlain, Master Perfumer Jacques Guerlain, 1925
Image: Guerlain
There are many famous and beautifully created perfumes over the century. Some are iconic but only a few are legends and Shalimar is the few that lived as one. Being Guerlain’s most talk about and romantic fragrance, it is quite unbelievable to think that Shalimar is approximately 100 years old and is still being worn to the present day. Of all the Guerlains, the most prolific perfumer, Jacques Guerlain, reigns supreme in his works which lasted for an astounding 65 years, taking over from his predecessor and uncle, Aimé Guerlain in 1890. Jacques has been the heart of almost every fragrance the company ever produced since the early 1920s.
Jacques Guerlain. Image: thereaderwiki
There are many stories about the creation of Shalimar. An accident or pure experiment is one interesting anecdote. The master perfumer added ethyl vanillin to a bottle of Jicky which sparked a moment of inspiration. There were also sources stating that the creation of the fragrance was Jacques’ personal gift to his wife and those other women are unlike his wife, making it extra exclusive. However the most popular story behind the creation of this one-of-a-kind fragrance revealed that Jacques was inspired by Mumtaz Mahal, the wife of Shah Jahan, Mughal emperor of India. The shapes and architectural structures of the Taj Mahal in Agra and the Shalimar Gardens in Lahore may have also inspired the bottle of the Shalimar.
Image: MouthShut
Although we will never know the true creation story of 1925, but what we do know is that, in that year, Jacques Guerlain created a fragrance that would carry the legacy of the Guerlain family for over 90 years after. Almost a century later and newly introduced perfumes in the market that brings to mind comparisons to Shalimar, the scent is so unique that it still stands on its own. The noteworthy aspect of Shalimar’s classic 20th-century accord of citrusy notes is to be engulfed in the richness that it offers to whoever wears it.
Image: Jan Moran
Jacques Guerlain’s astute olfactory senses created the distinctive scent that contains close to 30 per cent bergamot oil, paired with a rich oriental blend of vanilla, tonka bean, musk and castoreum. Shalimar had produced a very wide range of categorised smells such as the gourmand orientals like Chopard Casmir (1991) and Thierry Mugler Angel (1993), the fruity orientals like Chanel Allure (1996) and the leathery orientals like Must de Cartier (1981) as mentioned in the creation of Jicky.
Modern niche perfume launches like Frédéric Malle Musc Ravageur, Cartier L’Heure Mystérieuse and Atelier Cologne Vanille Insensée pay a particularly interesting homage to Jacques Guerlain’s Shalimar in terms of subsidiary ingredients, synthetic extracts and notes. However, none could come close or be on par with this special scent and in this case, Shalimar is one of the more successful Guerlain formulations anyone has come across.
Diorissimo By Christian Dior, Master Perfumer Edmond Roudnitska, 1956
Image: Voyage en Beauté
The market today is saturated with many fresh or floral scents which owe their existence to the elegant fragrance of Dior. The legendary French perfumer Edmond Roudnitska, the creator of some of the most popular perfumes including Eau Sauvage, Diorissimo, Diorela, Femme and Le parfum de Therese. He was titled the mastermind among perfumers in the industry, creating fragrant compositions not only for Dior but also for Hermès and Rochas. Perfumers today still glean his works to learn the genius creations of his mastery and are preserved by the perfumery world.
Edmond Roudnitska. Image: fragonard parfumeur
Highlighting Diorissimo of Dior, creativity emerged from the magical creation of this fragrance through the breakthrough of its remarkable formulation. Interestingly, Roudnitska created Diorissimo for the needs of Monsieur Dior personally, creating an exceptionally special scent for his friend, who loved the lily of the valley. Although Roudnitska was challenged in extracting the fragrant oil, it could not be extracted from the lily easily but his determination pulled through. Roudnitska planted lilies in his garden laboratory known as Cabris that he established for his lab works and still exists today. The Nose’s outstanding sense of smell made Diorissimo possible as he experimented and realised the aromachemical compound formula could be used to create an elusive smell and history was made.
Lily of the Valley flower. Image: cafleurebon
Before the early 20th century, many fragrances incorporated simple blends representing a nature-like scent of violet, rose, orange and rosemary. With new materials found and introduced to perfumers’ palettes, the change in tastes toward the complex fragrances took on a new kind of character. As Diorissimo was inspired by the fragrance of lily of the valley; the muguet evokes the smell of forest during dawn and is enhanced with the addition of jasmine, lilac and rose. A spritz of the Diorissimo would conjure the feeling of stepping into a mild sunny day in Paris. The natural scent comes through from Roudnitska’s eagerness to amalgam both natural and synthetic odorants. The bottle represents his conceptual search for the meaning of perfumery and the art of it.
As much as it is delicate, Diorissimo showcased a strong character and extraordinary complexity of smell. The current version today is somewhat finer and sharper to the nose due to the European safety rules (IFRA) where the formulation had to be tweaked more than a decade ago. On the contrary, the parfum concentration is much closer to what Diorissimo used to be when Roudnitska first created it. Although Diorissimo is a pioneer of lily scents, the modern scents of Guccy Envy (1997), Kenzo Parfum d’Été (1992) and Ormonde Jayne Tiare (2009) are worth exploring for their wonderful lily of the valley notes that possess the same gracefulness that Edmond Roudnitska’s Diorissimo harmoniously created for Monsieur Dior.
From the 18th century Guerlain and Dior, to the 19th century “modern” fragrances like Gucci and Kenzo, a century-long of ultimate curation by expert perfumers led the way for other scents we see today. Because of these legendary noses, it has paved the way for a myriad of scents that are individually catered to every occasion imaginable. Now, it would be your onus to take a pick.
The fragrance industry has always had a complicated relationship with climate change and sustainability. Microplastics from packaging and formulations pollute oceans and harm wildlife; palm oil plantations drive deforestation, decimating habitats and endangering species, and volatile organic compounds (VOGs) like ethanol play a devastating role in ozone pollution and the quality of our health.
As the clean beauty movement inspires more purpose-driven brands that focus on sustainability and inclusivity, luxury perfume houses are working to combat this issue by making eco-friendly fragrances a reality; either through biodegradable packaging, a focus on social responsibility or the increasing use of synthetic methods.
What Does It Mean To Be Sustainable?
Image: Mizu
As with defining sustainability in any area of consumerism, what constitutes a “sustainable perfume” is constantly evolving. There’s no legal definition of what makes a fragrance sustainable, so many factors come into consideration for producers of perfume and conscious shoppers.
“There’s no true, objective, quantitative assessment of sustainability that’s really standardised or universally accepted,” explains Neil Burns, CEO of P2 Science, a renewable speciality chemicals producer. “My conviction is that sustainability is a mindset that drives every single step of the creation of a fragrance,” master perfumer Aurélien Guichard tells us. As the nose behind countless celebrated fragrances — from Gucci Guilty to Narciso by Narciso Rodriguez — he emphasises how sustainability in perfumery is not just about the finished product.
Image: Aurelien Guichard
“By definition, our craft as perfumers is deeply linked with nature,” Guichard says. “It’s in our philosophy to preserve what inspires us and provides us with our ingredients.” He feels “it’s the perfumer’s responsibility to carefully source the ingredients that will enter formulas”. Ergo, Guichard both grows his own perfume plants using organic, cruelty-free and sustainable methods of production.
As well as accessing natural ingredients that are produced responsibly, the industry offers increasing access to new synthetic ingredients produced according to green chemistry principles (these include, “ingredients produced sustainable and upcycled from waste,” he explains)
Organic perfumes are made from 100 per cent naturally-sourced ingredients — usually plant-based — and extracted without chemical intervention. In general, they define organic as being physically obtained from plants using distillation, expression and extraction. These are usually free from toxins, pesticides and chemicals.
Today, there are more perfumes with natural formulations than ever. Acqua di Parma‘s Colonia Futura uses a composition made up of 99 per cent natural-origin ingredients. Hermetica, another perfume house, has completely replaced alcohol in its formulations with Innoscent, a hybrid compound that combines natural and nature-derived molecules to reveal the heart of the perfume more efficiently.
However, like anything else, organic perfumes have their downsides. Nature, as wonderful as it is, only has a finite amount of resources to give us in terms of beauty ingredients — these aren’t as sustainable, especially when you need large amounts of said plant to produce a product on an industrial scale. The resources it takes to produce them can have a devastating effect on the environment. For example, in order to produce a single pound of lavender essential oil, it takes roughly 250 pounds of lavender, while producing the same amount of rose can take roughly 10,000 pounds of rose petals.
Another natural ingredient that negatively impacts the environment is animal byproducts like ambergris — which comes from whales, and the sourcing results in untold numbers of creatures being hunted and killed.
Regardless of whether or not consumers fully understand what’s safe and what’s harmful, demand for natural ingredients continues to strong arm the beauty industry. Much like they want their skincare to be all-natural, consumers are now expecting the same of fragrances, calling on perfumers to create scents that are free of synthetics. But is the growing demand for natural fragrances a valid request in terms of safety? Or is it an extension of the established “clean” beauty marketing ploy, stoking fears and misunderstanding behind the product’s formulation?
Safety in Synthetics
Image: The 5th
Since the dawn of the eco-friendly beauty movement, we’ve been taught that natural and organic ingredients are better for us and the planet than synthetic ones. But, as we learn more about the impact our beauty choices have on the environment, we’re also learning that that isn’t always the case. In fact, sometimes, the most environmentally responsible option are ones that come from a lab.
“There is a tendency to believe that natural is safer than synthetic, and as much as I would love this to be true, it’s simply not,” says fragrance expert, Karen Gilbert. Natural materials are highly concentrated and packed full of allergens. Oakmoss, Rose Absolute, Jasmine and Ylang Ylang are all highly restricted in perfumery due to the skin sensitising effects. By using safe synthetics, brands are able to eliminate the most common allergens that would have been naturally present.
Hannah Lawrence, Co-founder of London-based fine fragrance studio, The 5th, hopes to help remove the stigma around synthetics and to raise awareness of its advantages as a more environmentally friendly alternative to natural ingredients. “Our use of safe synthetic ingredients helps prevent the over-farming of natural ingredients at risk of extinction due to their demand for use in fragrance,” she says.
Nevertheless, it’s worth noting that perfumers have been formulating with both synthetic and natural ingredients since the 18th century. Without synthetics, many scents that consumers have come to expect from their perfumes wouldn’t exist. Synthetics recreate the smell of natural ingredients when the natural raw materials are not available or cannot be extracted into an essential oil, such as florals like lilac and freesia.
Although synthetic perfume molecules tend to garner disapproving looks among purists, many forward-thinking brands are transforming waste materials into olfactory molecules that smell close to the real thing. Issey Miyake, for example, has found a way to create an extract of vanilla using renewable carbon methods featured in A Drop D’Issey; and Salvatore Ferragamo’s Storie di Seta quartet, created in collaboration with flavour and fragrance producer Symrise, uses the Lilybelle, a Symrise-exclusive molecule derived from orange peel, a waste product of the juice industry.
As much as it might appeal to the clean beauty industry’s push to demonise certain ingredients, the reality is that naturally-derived options in fragrance are not always safer. As we are on the cusp of an environmental revolution, it requires an upheaval of existing practices and mindsets to make a difference.
Having recently welcomedHenry Jacquesinto its fold, the award-winningPavilion Kuala Lumpur’s cachet of upscale brands just got hoisted up a few notches. As its second stand-alone boutique in Asia, the French high perfumer’s latest retail address is truly a nod to the capital’s rising status as a global shopping destination.
Designed by artistic directorChristophe Tollemer, the 650-sq ft boutique was virtually transported from France — where it was conceived and assembled before being vacuum-packed and reassembled in Kuala Lumpur by the Henry Jacques team.
This is to ensure the authenticity of its craftsmanship as a French establishment — a vital requirement to reflect the rare and exceptional ingredients used in the perfumes.
INSIDE HENRY JACQUES PAVILION KL
For a space that houses the most splendid and sumptuous of essences, the boutique is unequivocally warm and inviting — thanks to the light brown-coloured old solid oak used to construct its perfectly jointed main structure. The attention to detail of the custom-tailored premises is evident from the hand-sculpted basswood moulding with guildings finish, and also the Régence gold leaf-covered ceilingswhose patina was worked on by French master painter Louis-Daniel Jouve.
Striking a balance between the exterior and interior, the store’s front facade features two generously sized windows that tease passers-by with an in-store sneak peek, while folding doors are strategically placed within to enclose the VIP room for confidentiality. Elegance is the unspoken theme of the inner areas, exquisitely furnished with the soft, deluxe fabrics of Holland & Sherry.
PIÈCE DE RÉSISTANCE
At the centre stage of the space isthe perfume organ, surrounded by fennel-clad walls and hemp flooring. As if waiting on cue to be discovered, the perfume collections are purposefully tucked away from sight, placed in the confines of an intimate alcove. Here, clients can explore leisurely and freely, again in complete privacy.
Another area offering utmost seclusion isthe inner VIP area where an antique dressing table stands — built in the aesthetic of Louis XVIth and made from rosewood marquetry. Here, the sought-after creations of the High Jewelry collection, housed in perfume flacons embellished with precious stones and materials, populate the space.
A sophisticated marriage between the grandeur of historic Parisian abodes and contemporary design, the Henry Jacques boutique is enlivened with personal creations and treasured antiques. The Tollemer–designed space is a scene-setter for close encounters of the olfactory kind, be it a search for a sparkling bespoke fragrance or an equally cherished scent from among the French perfumer’s existing collections.
The Henry Jacques haute parfumerie boutique is located at Level 2 Pavilion Kuala Lumpur.
Imagine New York City in the 1970s, where graffiti, neon lights, a boiling pot of cultures filled the city in an era of freedom and tension.
These are the memories that filled Christopher Chong‘s childhood and his first experiences of NYC, who is now the creative director of Amouage, a luxury fragrance label.
Now, Chong narrates the intense colours, smells and the amalgamation of Latin and Asian cultures along the Lower East Side of New York into two new bottles of fragrance, parked under the Imitation series.
Portraying an era of audacious freedom, Imitation Man is a Chypre and Leather creation mixed with a hint of mysterious spices, embodying the bold spirit and the diversity of 70’s street cultures.
Imitation Man
Whilst for her, the Imitation Women is a Floralcy Aldehyde that takes us back to Studio 54 in the ’70s. With the heart notes of Blackcurrant Buds, Aldehyde, Liquorice, and floral top notes, Amouage brings on the never-ending party atmosphere at the iconic nightclub.
Imitation Woman
The neon colours crystal bottle has borrowed the neon lights from NYC to reflect the dynamic vibrancy and energy of the ‘City that Never Sleeps’, topping it off with a Topaz Aurore Swarovski crystal.
Amouage Imitation is now available worldwide. For more information visit Amouage.com.
