Tag Archives: IWC

IWC’s Portugieser Eternal Calendar finally finds a solution to the perpetual calendar

Throughout history, humankind has always sought to keep time. It began with curious glances at the sun, moon and stars in the sky which turned into observations of the lunar and solar cycles. Then, as the broader notion of time was quantified into calendars, they looked at more minuscule values, breaking down and counting hours, minutes, seconds, and fractions of seconds. Today we have come to a point in civilization where timekeeping is so commonplace that we take it for granted. The people who once watched the shadows of the sundial in excitement as the hours passed have been replaced by us, who lazily glance at a digital screen to get the time. So advanced, in fact, is our civilisation that now, we have the luxury of investing instead in traditional technology for the sake of preserving culture.

The perpetual calendar within a mechanical wristwatch is a beacon of such luxury. Even though we have mastered the tracking of the Gregorian calendar with digital means, there are watchmakers who have continued picking at the gear trains of movements in the hopes of making a perpetual calendar that is truly perpetual. And it seems that those watchmakers reside in IWC Schaffhausen. This is a story about the Eternal Calendar, a secular perpetual calendar mechanism that has finally solved the peculiarities of the Gregorian calendar, theoretically being able to keep the date for ‘eternity’ and also promises to keep an accurate record of the moon phases for the next 45 million years.

LEAP OF FAITH

To understand why this problem exists in the first place, one need only look to the stars for answers. The simple explanation of a ‘year’ as most people on the planet recognise, is defined as the time it takes for the earth to make one full rotation around the sun. It is taught in schools as 365.25 days, and this is also why, in the Gregorian calendar system, every four years these quarters are added together to form an extra day on February 29. This is the leap day added every four years to what is known as a leap year, and this is the problem the perpetual calendar has already solved.

However, scientifically speaking, the exact time that the earth takes to rotate around the sun is not exactly 365.25 days but rather 365.2422 days. And if the leap years are consistently added every four years, it would progressively shift the calendar out of sync as the centuries go by. When Pope Gregory XIII instituted the Gregorian calendar system in 1582 it included the leap year exception rule where three leap years every 400 years are removed to accommodate this difference.

This leap year exception rule, where every year divisible by 100 is not a leap year unless it is divisible by 400, is the one that perpetual calendar mechanisms still can’t solve. Thus, despite what the name of the complication suggests, the calendar will still have to be adjusted in 2100, the next instance where the leap year exception rule takes place.

In the same vein, most moonphase functions are also designed with the general rule that a lunar cycle is 29.5 days. In reality, this number is again an approximation of the observed time of 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes, and 2.88 seconds. Therefore, with the simplest moon phase indicators working on the 29.5-day cycle, they will start to be inaccurate after a few years of functioning.

This is where IWC steps in. With their new Portugieser Eternal Calendar, they claim to have solved the problem by offering what they are calling a secular perpetual calendar complication that can not only keep track of the leap years but also observe the leap year exception rule resulting in a timekeeping mechanism that will theoretically display the correct date in perpetuity. And their moonphase indicator? They haven’t yet found a perfect solution, but are flexing hard with a mechanism that, they say, will be accurate for the next 45 million years. When the Eternal Calendar was launched, IWC cheekily stated that we would just have to take their word on this but since then, the Double Moon indicator on the watch has been recognised by Guinness World Records as the “most precise lunar phase wristwatch” with a theoretical deviation of just one day in 45,361,055 years.

COMMON DENOMINATOR

Solving this problem digitally is easy as most computers understand fractions and decimal places. And with the proper input instruction, you can get a computer to adhere to any nonconflicting rule like leap years and leap year exceptions. But when it comes to mechanical watchmaking, it is a lot more complex. Instructions have to be relayed in gears, springs and cams, while there is also the constraint of space in a wristwatch. This is why we mentioned at the top of the article that civilisation has to be at a place where excess is possible to devote the resources that luxury companies have to finding a more ‘artistic’ solution to a problem that has already been solved, vis-à-vis the calendar.

Kurt Klaus who celebrates his 90th birthday this year

However, in order to arrive at the Eternal Calendar, IWC had to have some considerable technical expertise in the complication. Their experience with perpetual calendars dates back to the 1980s with Kurt Klaus who incidentally is celebrating his 90th birthday this year. Klaus, was the student of yet another famous name at IWC, Albert Pellaton, of the Pellaton winding movement that is still in use today.

The IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Ref. 3750 in light yellow gold

In 1985 he pioneered an ingenious new perpetual Calendar movement within the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Ref. 3750 which allowed the user for the first time to set all the displays by simply turning the crown. And the genius of this perpetual calendar movement was that he achieved this through 82 individual components. Additionally, he also created a new moonphase indicator that was precise up to 122 years. Klaus’ perpetual calendar movement was also the first to offer a digital year display that could showcase the year until 2499. An interesting fact that IWC states is that that the 100-year numeral of this year display will advance only a mere 1.2mm in a century but a point on the balance wheel would have travelled a distance equivalent to 40 orbits of the Earth in the same time.

This was hardly the start of IWC’s foray into the perpetual calendar complication but it was a significant milestone in terms of the modern watchmaking landscape. The 1980s was the time of quartz technology and it took real gumption and perhaps foresight, both on the part of Klaus and IWC to choose to develop a mechanical calendar complication.

This choice, arguably has bore abundant fruits throughout the years as the perpetual calendar with moonphase indicator exists in some shape or form in the major IWC collections including the Pilot, Portofino and of course the Portugieser. And it has gotten upgrades over the years. In 2003 the perpetual calendar debuted within the Portugieser collection and its moonphase indicator gained accuracy, from needing adjustments once every 122 years to once every 577.5 years.

AGE OF ETERNITY

To say that IWC is excited about the Portugieser Eternal Calendar may be the understatement of the year as it was launched practically the moment the first pieces were fully assembled. Earlier this year at Watches & Wonders Geneva there were literally only two pieces of this watch circulating within their booth. Two pieces to serve thousands of journalists and more than ten thousand retailers, all clamouring to see this marvel that solved what the perpetual calendar complication couldn’t.

So how did they do this? The simple answer is to increase the duration of its calendar cycle. If you think about your average date display or the complete calendar complication it is simple because it is programmed to a 1-month cycle. This means that every month regardless if it’s a 30-, 28- (or 29) or 31-day month the date will always go to the 31st requiring an adjustment 5 times a year for the shorter months. The next step up in complexity is the Annual calendar which was designed in a 12-month cycle for the mechanism to understand the difference between the longer and shorter months.

Then comes the perpetual calendar. For it to understand that every four years a leap day has to be added to the end of February during a leap year it has to be designed to function in a four-year or 48-month cycle. With the same logic, the engineers at IWC solved the problem of the leap year exception rule by extending the programme cycle of the Eternal Calendar to a 400- year or 4,800-month cycle. This means, that inside the newly developed IWC-manufactured 52640 calibre movement, there is a gear that will only make one full rotation in four centuries. This gear contains three indentations which causes the perpetual calendar to skip three leap years over that period which happens next in 2100, 2200 and 2300.

Of course, if you’re going to have a secular perpetual calendar mechanism that theoretically keeps the date for ‘eternity’ the moonphase indicator that is accurate to 122 or 577.5 years simply won’t do. To solve this problem, IWC installed a reduction gear between the base movement and the moon phases disc to get as close as possible to the actual duration of the lunation – the aforementioned 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes, and 2.88 seconds. The design of this reduction gear, now this is the interesting bit, was done by engineers using a special computer programme to simulate more than 22 trillion different combinations before settling on this mechanism that they say will be accurate for the next 45 million years.

What is perhaps overshadowed by the 45 million years and the Eternal part of the watch is the details they have afforded on the dial of this Portugieser. They chose to go with a glass dial which is frosted and lacquered on the underside. On top, there are clear subdials and the numerals and characteristic Portugieser minute scale are printed on a white lacquered flange sitting between the glass dial and the front glass. The whole thing gives the watch a sort of dimensionality, revealing only a very inconspicuous clue that when 2100 rolls around, finally, no adjustments will have to be made.

THE END

Theoretically, if the Gregorian calendar system doesn’t change, the Portugieser Eternal Calendar presents a perfect calendar complication that would never run out of sync. However, at present IWC claims the secular perpetual calendar complication will be accurate until at least 3999 because it has not been officially decided if the year 4000 will be a leap year or not.

Assuming the rules stay status quo and, of course, humanity continues to exist, what then is eternity? How long will the calendar of the Eternal Calendar be accurate? These types of questions are too complex for us and perhaps even IWC to answer. So, they sought out, Brian Cox, particle physicist and professor at the University of Manchester, to help out:

“In our current baseline model of the universe, we understand that the universe is not only expanding, but it is expanding at an accelerating rate. If the universe continues to do that, we will reach a point when everything is so far apart from everything else, and the temperature of everything is the same. Technically, we would say that entropy always increases as the universe goes from a highly ordered state to something messier. However, one of the things that we know about a clock is that it is a thermodynamic device. To build a clock, you need a temperature difference. In the far future, we will reach a point when no more temperature differences exist in our universe. I suppose that, then, time will have gone. When we get to the point where nothing happens in our universe – when there are no more temperature differences, and you can’t even build a clock. That, to me, is eternity. It goes on forever, and time will have ceased to have meaning. To give you a rough number: we currently believe that the supermassive black hole in the centre of our galaxy will evaporate in something like 10 to the power of 100 years. That’s one with 100 zeros. So, we are talking about an unbelievable amount of time before that probably will happen.”

So in short, a really freaking long time.

IWC Unveils The First Ever Luminous Ceramic Watch Prototype

IWC Schaffhausen has announced the debut of Ceralume®, a groundbreaking luminous ceramic technology that marks a first in the watchmaking industry. This innovation allows for the creation of fully luminous ceramic watch cases, an achievement realized through a patent-pending process developed by IWC’s engineering division, XPL.

Ceralume® integrates high-grade Super-LumiNova® pigments into ceramic powders, resulting in a material that emits a bright blueish light for over 24 hours. This advancement cements IWC’s position at the forefront of ceramic watch technology, a field where the company has demonstrated expertise for nearly four decades. Just imagining the possibilities for what IWC can do with a material like this is exciting not only for the brand but also for its collectors around the world.

And just as a teaser to hint at possibly what is to come, quite recently, at the previous Monaco Formula 1 Grand Prix, Sir Lewis Hamilton was spotted with a this concept piece on his wrist as he stylishly made his way around the paddocks.

“Creating the first fully luminous ceramic case is a testament to our pioneering spirit and innovative prowess,” said Dr. Lorenz Brunner, IWC’s Department Manager for Research & Innovation. “The development of Ceralume® involved overcoming significant challenges to ensure maximum homogeneity and adherence to our stringent quality standards.”

Roar into the Lunar New Year with These Dragon-Inspired Timepieces

 

2024 marks the return of the Year of the Dragon. Returning once every 12 years, this celestial creature is associated with prosperity and is a symbol of luck, strength and wisdom. The dragon is also an imperial icon that embodies life and immortality. In honour of this auspicious creature, LUXUO lists the exclusive festive releases and dynamic timepieces to usher in the Year of the Dragon — from dragon motifs to dragon figurines and every scale inbetween.

Vacheron Constantin

The Grisaille High Jewellery Dragon’s grisaille enamelling technique is objectively rare, and is a first for Vacheron Constantin in this shade of green. Note the 146 baguette-cut diamonds on the bezel and case of the 40 mm white gold watch, which take nothing away from the subtlety at the heart of this unique piece. Absent even a seconds indicator, it might be the most restrained watch on this list…

Ulysse Nardin

To celebrate the Lunar New Year, Ulysse Nardin combines the majestic dragon with the alluring pearl. The Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon Dragon is an embodiment of in-house innovations, métiers d’art and the magic of the Year of the Dragon. This limited edition timepiece is crafted from 5N rose gold with black DLC-coated titanium sections. The two-dimensional enamel dial features an intricate red gold dragon extending across the dial towards a pearl sculpture. The case back’s “X” shape is a signature of the watch and has become a notable feature of the modern Ulysse Nardin.

Piaget

Piaget’s new Dragon & Phoenix capsule collection features 10 daring designs of exceptional watches and High Jewellery pieces – topped off with a pair of extravagantly exclusive, made-to-order high jewellery cuff watches. Each creation brims with emotion and exuberance, joyfully channelling the codes of the Maison while celebrating the house’s unparalleled watchmaking savoir-faire. In the example seen here, the dial features the fine paillonne enamel craftwork of the famed Anita Porchet, framing a engraved gold dragon.

Chopard

Chopard’s L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Dragon is an 88-piece limited edition in ethical rose gold and boasts a continuation of the brand’s exploration of the traditional Japanese urushi craft; the dial was crafted by a Japanese Maki-e master using urushi lacquer, gold powder and mother-of-pearl inlays. The in-house L.U.C 96.17-L calibre with micro-rotor ensures that a slender profile of just 6.80 mm can be maintained. It mingles technical savoir-faire and artistic flair delivered by Chopard Manufacture.

Breguet

Classique Double Tourbillon Dragon 5345 (Special edition)

Breguet unveils two new exceptional timepieces as a tribute to the emblematic Year of the Dragon. The first is the special edition Classique Double Tourbillon Dragon 5345, which sees a hand-engraved golden dragon twirl between the watch’s twin tourbillons. The dragon is seen clutching a pearl made of mother-of-pearl in its talons. The rhodiumised gold rotating plate is hand-guillochéd with a fan motif. The gold bridge below the mainplate features an anthracite galvanic treatment and Clous de Paris hobnail motif guilloché.

Next is the Classique Dragon 7145 which features a hand-engraved rose gold appliqué dragon standing triumphantly on the dial with the watches Roman numerals, minutes track and clouds finished in a golden powder-pink hue. The manufacture calibre 502.3 beats inside a 40 mm rose gold case which is one of Breguet’s thinnest at just 2.40 mm thick.

Classique Dragon 7145 (Eight Piece numbered limited edition)

Hublot

Drawing inspiration from the traditional Chinese art of paper cutting, the Spirit of Big Bang Titanium Dragon layers its hands, wheels and H-shaped screws to form a 3D silhouette of an eastern dragon. It is a formidable expression of creativity that bridges form and function. Created in collaboration with the Chinese artist Chen Fenwan, this limited edition timepiece of 88 pieces is the perfect fusion of tradition and modernity, combining metaphors and symbols in the spirit of Hublot.

Bovet

Bovet’s artisans combined the art of sculpting miniatures with its established mastery of high horology in the Recital 26 Chapter Two Dragon. The result is a hand-engraved horological objet dárt. A domed blue quartz dial displays the local time zone’s hours and minutes in the upper part of the case. The dome located at 3 o’clock displays a second time zone specifically developed for this timepiece and patented by Bovet.

Roger Dubuis

Roger Dubuis utilised the Year of the Dragon to introduce the Excalibur Dragon Monotourbillon. The timepiece’s watchmaking innovation highlights the dance, complexity, artistry, and symbolism of the festive season all in one. For the sculpture of the dragon, the watchmakers have used 27 individual pieces of brass – each embellished with black lacquer on the sides and a pink gold treatment on the polished top surface. The pieces are then set on 25 different levels, producing a mutli-dimensional vision that is full of volume and vitality, thus enriching the skeletonised movement.

IWC Schaffhausen

IWC Schaffhausen welcomes the Lunar New Year with a special edition release of the Portugieser Chronograph. This timepiece features a 41 mm stainless steel case, a burgundy dial and contrasting gold-plated hands and appliques. Limited to 1,000 pieces, this watch features its rotor in the form of a majestic dragon, visible through the sapphire crystal case back. The watch is powered by the manufacture 69355 calibre.

Bell & Ross

Envoking tattoo artistry, the BR 05 Artline Dragon watch takes on this bold personality, with its own exclusive laser engraving. By adopting this graphic code, the timepiece visually plays on light and shadow through the relative fineness and thickness of each stroke honing in on the precision of line work that is crucial to “transcending the realm of drawing to that of a metal tattoo”. On the BR 05 Artline Dragon’s dial and integrated bracelet, the decorative motif is finely engraved.

Jaeger-LeCoultre

Jaeger-LeCoultre adds a new chapter to this story of craftsmanship and artistry with the Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Dragon’. The new timepiece pays tribute to the Year of the Dragon, and to the talents of the master enamellers and engravers in the Métiers Rares atelier of the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre. Created to celebrate the Zodiac Year and made only to order, the Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Dragon’ is testament to La Grande Maison’s vision of culture and creativity, where the artistic crafts merge with the technical expertise of the watchmakers.

Blancpain

In 2012, Blancpain achieved a world-first when it debuted its Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar wristwatch that spanned East-West with its combination of a complex Chinese calendar and a Gregorian date and moonphase. This year, the Manufacture enters its second 12-year cycle with the introduction of a new limited edition of this grand complication featuring a dragon engraved on the red gold winding rotor in honor of the symbol of the new lunar year. This special limited edition for the first time is executed in red gold with a green enamel dial against a frosted background; the dragon is flanked by a red ruby and a Chinese character engraving of the words “dragon” and “wood”, the element of 2024.

Franck Muller

Franck Muller’s release of special edition timepieces comes every Lunar New Year to mark the procession of animals in the Chinese zodiac. Honouring the mythical dragon, the new Vanguard Dragon Slim Skeleton Limited Edition bears a customised rotor that has been engraved with a dragon, which appears to coil around and protect the timepieces’s movement like a “mystical guardian”. The Vanguard Dragon Slim Skeleton Rouge and Vert are accented in red and green respectively, with the pops of color coming from its tinted sapphire caseback – the special bright hues reflected in said caseback mirror that of the dial. Only 10 pieces will be available of each reference, including the Colour Dreams version (which is distinguished by a transparent caseback) exclusively at Franck Muller boutiques in the Asia Pacific region.

Parmigiani Fleurier

Maison Parmigiani celebrates the Year of the Wood Dragon with a magnificent restoration of a masterpiece from its Métiers d’Art collection, the “Tempus Fugit”. Inspired by the legend of the Dragon and the Pearl of Knowledge, the piece incorporates powerful symbols anchored deep in traditional Chinese culture. This piece is a reference to Parmigiani Fleurier’s vast experience in the restoration of antique clocks and its fascination with kinetic art.

L’Epée

The movement “Swiss Made Caliber 1853” was created entirely by L’Epée 1839, has 124 parts meticulously assembled by the L’Epée 1839’s master watchmakers. Two dragons “protect” on either side of the most precious part of a kinetic object — the gearing mechanism. The dragons with golden or palladium scale adopt mirrored postures, their serpentine body coils protectively around the horological craftmanship.

For more on the latest in luxury watch releases, click here.