Luxury watch brands are beating new paths to continue to appeal and cater to the market’s changing tastes while anticipating these shifts. One of these paths sees watchmakers pair up with haute couture designers and old-school artisanal craftsmen, as well as their own retail partners. More or less, we are seeing storied watchmaking brands collaborating with different players from all walks of life to create magnificent timepieces. Today, luxury watches are considered artistic time-telling devices equipped with the finest elements one can hope for, but where the focus on details, including finishing techniques, and technical intricacies are equally important.

Through the art of collaboration, luxury watch brands are bringing something special to their collections, especially in terms of vivacity. To put it another way, the mechanical artwork of watchmaking is being given an intriguing design makeover. This is how the world of watches functions, where a few collaborations are a nod to commemorate long-lasting relationships.

Big names in luxury such as Chanel, Gucci, Hermès and Bvlgari have all invested in developing and manufacturing excellent mechanical watches. According to Eric Wind, the seasoned and much-cited watch expert and owner of Wind Vintage, “There is a long history of ‘fashion brand watches’ but in recent years these fashion maisons have tried to shed that label to make more serious mechanical watches. These are brands that have massive and loyal followings, so their watches can often serve as an important “gateway drug” to serious mechanical watches from the traditional watch manufacturers.”

On the other hand, it is also a positive development that their investments in watches have been welcomed by the watch industry. In this very issue, we look at celebrated offerings from Chanel and Hermès from Watches & Wonders 2022, where they more than held their own against traditional fine watchmaking brands. As for Bvlgari, anyone who doubts the brand’s watchmaking chops need only look to the 10-year saga of the Octo, and the resulting thinnest of all watches this year. We dare say these brands have enriched watchmaking, and created entirely new markets for everyone.

• READ MORE: Bvlgari Puts Its Name Atop In Ultra-Thin Watchmaking

Will All Luxury Watch Brands Follow Suit? 

Now the next big question is whether all luxury watch brands will follow what is now clearly more than a trend. “Not all luxury watch brands will follow suit — I don’t think we will see Rolex or Patek Philippe teaming up with Supreme anytime soon,” said Wind. ”Although many other watch brands would be thrilled to be able to offer a watch with Supreme on the dial. But even Patek Philippe has a long history of selling watches at Tiffany & Co. in NYC and the limited Nautilus reference 5711/1A with a Tiffany blue dial (above) could be described as a great collaboration in a sense — with the watch retailing for about US$52,000 and with a secondhand market value of $4 million.” 

Since there is a huge market out there for collaborations like this to take place in one form or another, the future certainly looks promising. As Alison Bringe, the CMO of Launchmetrics, pointed out, “Given the recent success of the collaborations, we can expect to see a continuation of partnerships between luxury watch companies and fashion brands, especially as brands work towards building unique and innovative experiences for their consumers. Brands aiming to get into partnerships must have a clear understanding of the purpose for the collaboration in order to build an effective partnership. These can be from increasing audience engagement, garnering more visibility, penetrating into a new market to overall enhance their brand performance.”

Patek Philippe X Tiffany & Co. 

Perhaps the most famous double-signed watch of the 21st century (so far) is the one that marked the 170-year-old alliance of Patek Philippe with its retail partner Tiffany & Co. You know the watch, of course, and not because you can see it right here. For the sake of doing our jobs properly, we are referring to the Tiffany Blue Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A-018. While the hype and the specific aesthetic appeal of the watch can be debated, it cannot be denied that by simply harnessing the mesmerizing effect of pastel colours, Patek Philippe penned the opening lines of a new chapter in watchmaking. Yes, pastel dials can also be symbols of power and prestige. And it was really visible with Leonardo DiCaprio spotted wearing it at a courtside basketball game this year, while Ed Sheeran had to wait for his — he might still be waiting.

For those for whom power must be absolute, Bernard Arnault’s Tiffany Blue Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Ref. 5740 must be incontrovertible evidence. This watch also serves as a reminder that Patek Philippe has been collaborating with TIffany & Co with double-signed watches for some time; in fact, the Geneva watchmaker has a number of vintage offerings that it made exclusively for a variety of retail partners, some of whom are no longer in business. 

• READ MORE: Patek Philippe Goes Tiffany Blue

Hublot X Berluti 

Hublot has always been known for its exceptionally eccentric designs, and a plethora of distinctive collaborations. It likes to surprise watch enthusiasts in a myriad of ways that are difficult to fathom. Last year, Hublot celebrated five years of partnership with the French leather maker and fellow LVMH brand Berluti with a new 100-piece limited edition of the Big Bang Unico. The 44mm Big Bang Unico Berluti Aluminio is a timeless watch that celebrates the wonders of leather.

On the whole, the splendour of Venezia leather has been exquisitely brought to life by its use on the dial, bezel and strap of the Big Bang Unico Berluti Aluminio (the watch itself is in titanium; aluminio is a shade of proprietary leather used by Berluti). While the dial is indeed in this same leather, with some neat watchmaking handiwork making a portion of the Unico calibre visible, the real signature here is the leather insert used on the bezel. This is both unexpected and seductive, with the exposed leather expected to acquire the same patina as the leather of the strap over time. The watch comes in a special case with a travel pouch, and a shoehorn key ring with the Berluti logo. 

Audemars Piguet X Ralph & Russo 

Le Brassus watchmaker Audemars Piguet is committed to fostering dialogues across creative fields so its collaboration with British couture fashion brand Ralph & Russo is fitting. The idea was to put a new spin on existing watches via curation, with the ladies’ Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon taking centre stage alongside four 34mm time-only Royal Oak models. With the Royal Oak Concept available in pink or white gold, its case has been given a shimmering frosted gold finish with a contemporary dial composed of multiple layers. Powered by the hand-wound calibre 2964, the flying tourbillon highlights the perfect symmetry between tradition and modernity. The blue alligator leather strap of these two spectacular models gives them an elegant contrast. While you might think of this as Audemars Piguet watches making a guest appearance in a Ralph & Russo show, because there are no real watches, the meaning is implied. 

Asked how beneficial such collaborations are, Wind explained: “These collaborations have been very dynamic and brought new energy to watch brands – and seemed to have helped sales and raise brand awareness among fans of these clothing brands. I think these collaborations and partnerships are about more than just increasing sales of highly-sought after models by producing them in limited-editions, but are about making cool and desirable watches at the end of the day.” 

• READ MORE: Watch Buying Guide: All About Dials

Tudor X Marine Nationale 

Tudor watches are loved by adventure seekers since they are designed to be beautiful tools that can take a beating. For this very reason, the Marine Nationale of the French Navy has been a big admirer since the 1950s when the Swiss luxury watchmaker became its official supplier of dive watches. Rather than simply making reissues to mark that historical partnership, Tudor and the Marine Nationale found a new mission last year. To mark the occasion, Tudor developed a new 42mm version of the Pelagos called the Pelagos FXD in close collaboration with the Commando Hubert, which is the combat swimming unit of the French Navy. As we have written before, this is not a dive watch, but rather a navigational tool for use underwater. That is exactly what Commando Hubert needed, and Tudor responded. If one is looking for authenticity and true understanding in partnerships, as Bringe remarks, this one has depth to it.

Tutima X Esquivel Compass 

Some partnerships evolve from shared personal tastes, rather than a quest to open new markets, and that is the case for watchmaker Tutima and leather goods purveyor George Esquivel. Based in Los Angeles, George Esquivel himself is a noted collector of fine timepieces, one of which is a Tutima he acquired in 2009. Thus, when the Glashutte-based Tutima wanted to collaborate with an artisan outside watchmaking, George Esquivel was the natural choice. Esquivel is a full partner in creating a made-to-order travel kit that includes the Patria Dual Time model, two leather straps, a leather watch holder, an overnight leather duffle bag, and Chelsea boots. All the vachetta leather elements are lovingly handmade at George Esquivel’s Los Angeles atelier, while the Tutima Patria Dual Time represents the best of Glashütte watchmaking, which the readers will know well. Esquivel himself decided on steel for the case, to ensure his clients feel comfortable wearing the watch on all their adventures 

For more watch reads, click here.

Sometimes, a watch comes along that we are hungry to write about. It does not happen often, but it did happen here for our cover story. The TAG Heuer Monaco is an icon, and it represents an important part of what we love about watches. We could even write the story without a new watch to reference, which thankfully we did not have to do. To understand this, it helps to consider the reality of the Monaco Special Edition here. The case is hardly new and neither is the automatic Heuer 02 movement. By any measure, it is an evolution, not a revolution. By way of contrast, when the Monaco debuted, it was truly revolutionary. But you can discover more about that in the cover story. Here, we sing the praises of this particular model, and the details that make it a handsome piece.

To begin with, we reiterate that this watch is based off the famous Dark Lord model of 1975, but it is not a reissue or even a real tribute. Instead, it is more of a riff on the look. In terms of size and shape, it is no different to the other Monaco offerings, being a square 39mm watch. Where the watch makes its mark is in its sandblasted DLC titanium grade two material, and highly unusual two-tone black-on-black dial (circular brushed within the minute track, and highly grained around the hour markers). These markers themselves are rose gold plated, matching the hour, minute and small second hands (with white SuperLuminova on the hour and minute hands). The effect is striking in pictures, which we hope to convince you of with our own photographic evidence as well as the stock press images.

• READ MORE: TAG Heuer Carrera X Porsche Limited Edition: Racing Colours

In the metal, the effect is even more impressive, with the grained elements standing out. You might gaze upon it and feel that it reminds you of a racetrack, or of racing tyres — the press release mentions these exact examples, yet we thought of them independently after our shoot with the watches. Perhaps we are on the same wavelength as the communications team at TAG Heuer, or there is something organic to this description.

This wealth of visual cues might sound overwhelming, and we have not even mentioned the chronograph hands and the subdials. The Monaco has a proven track record of making such aesthetic touches work, and the Monaco Special Edition is no exception. On that note, the crown and chronograph pushers are also in the same grade 2 DLC titanium. The black alligator strap also sports a folding clasp in the same material, also with DLC. Incidentally, besides adding a degree of surface hardness, DLC has the more practical benefit of making surfaces resistant to visible fingerprint stains. We have tested this out many times and it seems to work as advertised, though it is not 100 per cent effective; TAG Heuer does not make this claim in the press materials.

• READ MORE: The WOW Conversation: Luxury Watch List On the Rise

A specific claim worth looking into is that this is only the second Monaco to be cased in titanium, after the Titan Limited Edition last year. It follows then that this is the first time the Monaco has been cased in DLC treated titanium. This Special Edition, which we like to call the Dark Sun, is only available at TAG Heuer boutiques and online.

For more watch reads, click here.

Perhaps no brand at Watches and Wonders Geneva had so triumphant a return as Cartier. After leading a small group of brands out of BaselWorld in 1991, it now gets to tell a bunch of Swiss watchmaking big boys “I told you so,” which must feel awesome. Nevertheless, it is the first watch show in a long time that Cartier could not dominate by sheer force of will, and an unassailable number of novelties, but the brand had no problem commanding attention. You will no doubt have heard and seen reports on the Tank Chinoise, and we will get there in our upcoming issue of WOW. For now, the temporal delights of the Cartier Masse Mystérieuse beckon because this is not a story about Cartier and watch shows in Geneva.

• READ MORE: Cartier’s Regional CEO, Cecile Naour, Talks About the Importance of Empowering Women

I will admit to a bit of bias here because this watch piqued my interest the moment I saw it. Jack Forster of Hodinkee called it wonderfully strange, a fact I noted right after he posted it, in our own daily report from Geneva. By way of introduction, we will reproduce our initial summary, which we think is quite a good one: First of all, it is a mystery watch that shows all its tricks but conceals how it works. The entire movement is contained inside the oscillating mass, otherwise known as the rotor, and seems to be disconnected from the hands entirely. This explains not only the watch but also the name. I cannot tell you how much I love it when it is this easy to explain a watch, yet say absolutely nothing about it.

Now, we love seeing the horological experiments of the past deliver fresh results, which is what the Masse Mystérieuse is. When it works, we think it reminds manufactures that an investment in creating incredible watches today might just pay off decades into the future. We are also gratified that the work of Cartier fine watchmaking remains relevant. There is nothing more haute horlogerie than having to wait while the watchmakers create the future. Eleven years ago, when the Cartier Astroregulateur debuted, it no doubt caused all sorts of confusion — and it was not only about how to spell the name of the watch. Today, Cartier has pivoted from mounting the escapement on the winding rotor to making the rotor the entire movement. As it happens, it has also given us yet another name that we will struggle to spell! Seriously though, for those of us who love shaped movements, this is a real treat. Think about it for a moment: the movement provides the mass to power itself.

• READ MORE: Dark Horse Watches to Keep An Eye for in 2022

Obviously, a watch like this raises questions, most of which we have not yet gotten answers to. In that way, the Masse Mystérieuse makes of time a big mechanical question mark. That is perfect for a mystery watch, which is limited to just 30 pieces.

For more watch reads, click here.

For the better part of the nearly three and a half millennia that humankind has measured and recorded time, clocks and other instruments have mostly been large objects, occupying pillars and towers within major town centres. The miniaturisation of timepieces into a more pocketable form, i.e. the pocket watch is a relatively recent occurrence in this regard and the wristwatch later still. In fact, the first recorded pocket watch is attributed to German watchmaker, Peter Henlein in the late 1400s and the first timepiece worn on the arm seems to be one that was made for Queen Elisabeth I in 1571 as a gift from the first Earl of Leicester, Robert Dudley. Now it’s important to reiterate the “worn on the arm” aspect once more, because Queen Elisabeth I’s 1571 piece is described to have been a clock full of diamonds suspended by a bracelet that could be worn on the arm, not quite the wrist.

It would appear that from the 1500s right up into the early 1900s, watches being worn on some sort of a bracelet and, therein some part of your arm, was already a thing. It was considered appropriate only for women and these timepieces were, for the most part, ornate and effeminate, and not necessarily worn because time was of the essence. Amongst contemporary watchmaking firms, Breguet makes among the first claims to a landmark moment. Followed by Patek Philippe with their 1868 rectangular clock mounted on a three-part bracelet for Hungarian Countess, Kosewitz.

Utilitarian Ubiquity

How the wristwatch became an object of utilitarian ubiquity can, really only be attributed to the following singular event. In 1904, Louis Cartier made the wish of famous Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos Dumont come true: “to be able to tell time whilst flying.” And so, Louis Cartier gave the world the unmistakable, Santos Dumont. What is important to point out here is Louis Cartier’s solution for securing a strap to the Santos Dumont case. Here is possibly the first instance of the usage of this integrated horn-like feature on a watch case, onto which a strap could be secured and therein, worn on the wrist. Horn-like, as in horns or lugs as they are more commonly referred to, and one of the prime horological inventions that really made it possible for timepieces to be worn on the wrist today.

Alberto Santos Dumont and Louis Cartier, however, did not manage to kick off a worldwide phenomenon. It was not until World War I that people started to warm to the idea of wearing timepieces on their wrists. Wristwatches proved to be the more efficient means of wearing a watch and checking time, when on the battlefield, rather than having to fish a pocket watch out from – well, a pocket. Initially, watch producers were essentially modifying pocket watch cases such that they could be worn on the wrist. Some early implementations included thick wires being welded on to the back, or sides, of watch cases, which then allowed for straps to be stitched and secured to the timepiece. Today we know of these as the wire lugs and can still be seen on watches such as some of Panerais Radiomir models.

• READ MORE: Aviation Heritage and Evolution of Bell & Ross Vintage Watches

Integrated Designs

Watchmakers then progressed to experiment with the idea of welding horn-like structures on the top and bottom of the watch case, which then allowed for straps to be screwed onto the watch and worn securely. There were also instances of these horns being affixed to cases using a hinge mechanism, such that they could articulate and allow for a better fit around the wrist. It is easy to assume from here that case horns slowly became the preferred means for securing straps to wristwatches, so much so that watch cases were soon designed with their horns already integrated, ala Santos Dumont.

Just ahead of the Roaring Twenties, it was Cartier again who gave the world its next immortal wristwatch, the Tank. The manner in which the brancards of the Tank lead effortlessly into its lugs is perhaps one of the earliest examples of how lugs soon became an elemental part of a watch. More and more watchmakers and case producers started to include lugs as a design aspect of the case rather than an afterthought. When Vacheron Constantin designed the American 1921, its case included lugs that were of a very progressive mindset. When Patek Philippe produced the world’s first perpetual calendar wristwatch in 1925, reference 97975, it not only had lugs but it had ones that were decorated with an engraved motif. When Mercedes Gleitze swam the English Channel in 1927, the water-resistant Rolex Oyster on her had wire lugs integrated into its case and was made to be worn on the wrist. And again, in 1931 when René-Alfred Chavot designed by Reverso, he did so with lugs already on his patent drawings.

Creative Expressions

The decade of the Great Depression slowed things down for horology, like it did for everything else through the 1930s. And then came World War 2. However, as it was with World War 1, the second global conflict ended up proliferating the wristwatch as the choice method for wearing a timepiece. Once the Allied Forces had secured victory and people could live life again on their own terms, watchmakers and case designers seemed to look at lugs not just as a functional component for cases, but another element for creative expression. Patek Philippe’s contemporary perpetual calendar reference 5320, for instance, with the triple-stepped lugs was inspired by the lugs of the Calatrava reference 2405 from the 1940s. Patek Philippe used many other famed lugs designed within this timeframe including the “cornes de vache” and the bean-shaped Fagiolino lugs, just to name a few. Vacheron Constantin in the same period sported lugs the likes of the tear-drop, Crab Claw and one of Christian Selmoni, Vacheron Constantin’s style and heritage director’s favourites, the Batman.

It was not just watch and case makers who were in this exuberant mode through the mid-century. Humankind, in general, was in a state of joy and started to engage in adventure and exploration, which in turn provided watchmaking its next chapter: the rise of tool watches. Leisure diving, for example, is an activity that grew in popularity in this period and required wristwatches that could be used underwater to time dives. On top of making water-resistance watches, watchmakers also had to design more robust lugs and straps to secure wristwatches, often over dive suits. Such extreme conditions necessitated the use of hardier metal bracelets that could be fitted onto lugs. But that is not to say that designers gave up their right to lugs. On the contrary, they started using shaped facets, with alternating brushed and polished surfaces, and lines that formed a continuous silhouette from the case to their accompanying metal bracelets. Which then provides us the perfect segue into the 1970s and the advent of the integrated bracelet, and the sports chic watch that went with it.

• READ MORE: Build Your Single Watch Brand Collection

Fit For Purpose

Watches such as the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and the Rolex Oysterquartz, are some of the pioneering timepieces designed to truly integrate the case, lug and bracelet into a seamless form. This approach did not just provide for a brand-new aesthetic, it also provided for insights into how lugs can affect a wristwatch’s wearability. For instance, shorter, more claw-like, discreet lugs on integrated bracelet watches allowed for their bracelets to drape over the wrist without gaps, making for a snug, comfortable fit. These lessons would come in handy at the end of the Quartz Crisis when watchmakers generally took to larger sized timepieces through the 1990s and the 2000s. Lug design, in terms of length and curvature, had to be given particular attention in this period to make watches 45mm and beyond, ergonomically sound. There are also a few watchmakers that took to more innovative lug designs to make these large watches wearable. Master watchmaker Denis Flageollet, for example, invented futuristic articulating lugs that make the otherwise substantial case of the De Bethune DB28, easy to wear.

From its simple beginnings as a practical implement that made it possible to wear a watch on the wrist, to becoming an essential part of the watch case itself, to then being elevated to an aspect for creative expression, the story of the lugs – or horns, if you prefer – is a short but, undoubtedly impactful one. You might even say that while it was war that necessitated the wristwatch, without the invention of the lugs, strapping a watch on a wrist could have never become this convenient. Sure, straps and bracelets play a huge part towards being able to strap a watch on your wrist, but the way in which lugs allowed for wristwatches to be industrialised and become the preferred method by which to carry a timepiece on your person, is nothing short of remarkable. Today, while the wristwatch stands more as an object of self-expression, rather than utility, watchmakers have managed to re-engineer and update lugs to ones that allow for straps and bracelets to be swapped out without any tools, to fit the day and occasion. So, the next time you have one of those moments when you are lost gawking at your mechanical watch, ticking away on your wrist – beyond the complications, the sweeping seconds hand, the overall beauty of the dial and case design – take time to also appreciate the lugs. Because what you are looking at is a pioneering innovation, barely out of its infancy, in the larger tradition of horology. It was invented no more than a century ago and it is one of the prime reasons why you are able to wear your watch, this easily and conveniently, on your wrist.

For more watch reads, click here.

For majority of the 20th century, precious metals were the most highly valued materials in watchmaking. The undeniable versatility of steel or the elegance found in platinum, and the classic feel of gold watches are what drives the appeal of these rare timepieces.

For a number of years, luxury timepieces were crafted in solid gold and that was the standard, go-to metal for watch manufacturers. As time has gone on, we have seen the introduction of a variety of new metals that have taken the watch world by storm. While 18k gold is still the metal of choice in luxury timepieces, the entrance of steel and platinum timepieces has offered watch enthusiasts a welcome range of options that encompass luxury.

Going For Gold

Looking only to gold then, one fact says it all. The retail price of any given model in gold does not have much of a relationship with material costs. There are many examples to get into but one can simply count on the value of gold being just 20% of the price, and that is if we are being so generous as to count 18k gold as 24k gold, and if we use the cost price of the watch, not the recommended retail price. Apply this line of reasoning and you will find yourself in trouble.

To illustrate, I will use the Rolex Submariner as a benchmark since this collection features steel and precious metal variants – though not platinum. Reference 126610LN in steel is $13,890 while reference 126618LN in yellow gold is $52,340. That is a close to fourfold increase, which anyone can see has little to do with the price of gold. In Oystersteel and yellow gold, reference 126613LB, the price is $20,290, which seems a happy confluence. As an aside, Rolex watches in different types of gold have different prices, but this is not the case across all brands.

In fact, this is why so many collectors say it is better to pay the steel price than the gold one. Bringing platinum back into it, no platinum model exists in this Submariner example, but Rolex typically lists all prices on its website, with some notable exceptions. The Rolex Day-Date in platinum is one such exception. We infer from this that prices must be eye-watering indeed.

• READ MORE: Built to Last: Rolex Watches for Every Realm

Signature Elements

This opinion of mine came to the forefront this year thanks to one particular watch, which you may have guessed is the Vacheron Constantin 222. In full yellow gold, it is a little more expensive than its peers from Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe, to use just its peer group (and the other members of the classical trinity in Swiss watchmaking). Leaving aside the matter of any weight comparison, because the price ultimately has little to do with the raw material, this is tough to swallow for some collectors, as was evident at the local event showcasing the Vacheron Constantin novelties. Since I do not think the prices brands settle on have much to do with standardised value systems, it does not bother me. Those who love the 222 will find reasons aplenty to love the watch. Everyone else, not so much.

This is all tied to industry conventions, or perceived ones at least. The perception of value is king. Whatever anyone tells you, one cannot really tell platinum apart from white gold or steel, at least not by sight alone. For this reason, certain tropes, such as Rolex using a smooth bezel for its platinum Day-Date models made sense. This particular Day-Date defied the brand’s established conventions, and casual observers might think it a reasoned and calculated move. Of course, we have heard a lot this year about why a fluted bezel in platinum was not possible before, and we look at the official word from Rolex on that elsewhere. To me, it all adds up to an acknowledgment that beliefs about watchmaking must be sustained somehow. People believe all kinds of things about watches and watchmaking, sometimes entirely independently of marketing talk.

Brands can and use markers for platinum watches, above and beyond gold. Blue dials in special shades or tones, accompanied by straps in the same tone, or stitching in platinum, are just a few ways. Patek Philippe uses a diamond at 6 o’clock on the case middle, to mention just one specific example, and this is deliberate. You would not want to pay the platinum price and have steely feelings about it. Or even white gold feelings for that matter. If brands make an extra effort with platinum, it pays off for collectors in the know, and those brands in their circle who are likewise clued in. While that might seem superficial, I find the attention lavished on details like this to be quite special. By way of contrast, neither steel nor gold watches receive such attention, typically. Well, the grand success of the Royal Oak and the Nautilus can be partly attributed, if one is so inclined, to the special touches used for those steel models, and subsequently reserved for them. Before Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe made those watches, no one had treated steel as anything particularly special.

Steel Loving you

To make these convoluted arguments more cogent, I will finish this point with a statement: it takes heart to buy watches in precious metals, and it is worth doing because the players battling it out for steel watches do not have their hearts in it. If collecting watches is your passion, it may be time to close the door on steely delights and move on to the world of precious metals (and complications, but that is another story for another time).

Having said all that, I think steel is still in the picture, but it is just not the whole picture. We have recently witnessed the return of the platinum and steel wristwatch. This is a reference to the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF of course, but platinum is also used with other white precious metals quite unobtrusively. This digression aside, the incredible success of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller in Rolesor white gold and steel, might be an indication that hybrid metal watches might not be two-tone or bi-colour in future. Another point in favour of this outcome is the recent decision at Montblanc to use white for its signature fluted bezels, even when the case is steel.

We think this approach is exciting from the perspective of countering some of the purported nouveau riche connotations of two-tone watches. When the metals coming together are the same colour (using that word loosely), then the fact that there is a precious metal in play becomes something of a secret pleasure, more for the wearer than for anyone else. Both Parmigiani Fleurier and Montblanc have all but said as much in explanations about these moves. Having handled both Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF models and Montblanc Minerva pieces at Watches & Wonders in Geneva, I can say that you cannot really tell that there are any precious metals in play. The watches do not feel notably heavier than they should, and there is no full steel model to serve as a frame of reference anyway.

• READ MORE: The Timeless Appeal Of Steel Watches

Tone On Tone

Bi-metal watches also neatly skewer that old argument that some shades of gold work better on some skin tones, which to my eyes rings false. This is all about emotions anyway, and notions about skin tones and gold tones seem quaint in our present era. If the shine of steel is really what moves the market, then adding a bit of extra luminosity with precious metals functions both to sell any given watch, as well as to ask collectors to decide how they feel about a bit of precious metal adding heft to the price. To be blunt, the flippers are probably going to discount the precious parts, as they definitely do for the Sky-Dweller reference 326934.

By discount, I mean traders will ignore whatever they find difficult to understand. Consequently, this Sky- Dweller reference is frequently listed as just Oystersteel, even though no such watch exists. As I pointed out earlier, resale prices almost never take materials into consideration, other than making steel the default by dint of its supposed universal appeal. This also sidesteps those notions about skin tones. It is this notion of universality, flimsy as it is, that makes the monotone bi-metal watch an interesting option.

Finally, there is also the matter of safety, and I do not make this claim lightly. Living in Singapore, we take it for granted that we can go about being as flashy as we want. This is certainly not true in plenty of other places, including other global cities such as London. In other words, a full yellow gold watch might make you a target, but a white gold one might not. Any combination of white precious metals and steel or titanium likewise does not draw attention to itself, and consequently your arm. Unlike a pure utilitarian metal though, this sort of watch is a pleasure you can feel. Well, you will imagine that you feel it, but that is good enough. A sort of badgeless approach, as seen at H. Moser & Cie and Parmigiani Fleurier, is also worth noting here, although this is properly the subject of another story.

To sum up, there might not be a more relevant or exciting time for bi-metal watches than this very moment. After all, the 1980s are back again, in more ways than one, and there is a persistent notion that bi-metal watches are very representative of the 1980s. I am uncertain that this cultural context works in Singapore, or in Asia really, but this is a matter of opinion and I have no strong feelings, one way or the other. What I do have some feelings about, is the future of such hybrid materials as Omega’s Bronze Gold. Essentially a 9k gold alloy, it might be the right fit for other brands that could use it to greater effect, say Longines, or Tissot or even Rado. Fancy a Bronze Gold Captain Cook anyone? I know I would, depending on how the brand determines the price on this. On that note, Bronze Gold could also be useful to resolve any Tissot PRX half gold price misgivings. This sort of gold alloy can also be used in bi-metal watches to offer competitive pricing. We shall see where these musings take us all. See you in five years or so.

For more watch reads, click here.

For over 300 years, navigating the oceans and timekeeping have been inseparable. It began with humanity’s desire to discover uncharted territories, creating the need for ultra precise timepieces for navigation over the water. A watch inspired by the antique concept of the Marine Chronometer, the nautical-inspired watch comes with a cool, summery elegance. Meant to look good on land or on the deck of a boat — and in time for the sailing season, we’ve decided to take a closer look at some of the best nautical-inspired watches available now on the market.

Rolex Yacht-Master 42

An original refinement to an emblematic sailing timepiece: the Yacht-Master 42 is available in 18 ct yellow gold. Launched in 1992, the Yacht-Master was designed specifically for navigators and skippers. Embodying the rich heritage that has bound Rolex and the world of sailing since the 1950s, this Professional-category watch provides a perfect blend of functionality and nautical style, making it equally at home on and off the water. An emblematic nautical timepiece, it is easily recognized by its bidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated bezel made entirely from precious metal or fitted with a Cerachrom insert in high-technology ceramic.

The unique gold alloy of the latest design is created and cast at the brand’s foundry in Geneva, Switzerland. It offers unparalleled resistance, making the new Yacht-Master 42 an unbeatable ally on the open seas. Its Oysterflex bracelet is equipped with an Oysterlock safety clasp, also in 18 ct yellow gold, which prevents accidental opening, as well as the Rolex Glidelock extension system that enables the wearer to adjust the length of the bracelet quickly and easily. The black lacquer dial with hour markers in simple geometric shapes, the crystal with an anti-reflective coating and the optimised Chromalight display combine to provide excellent legibility in any circumstances. The Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 42 is equipped with calibre 3235, a movement at the forefront of watchmaking technology.

The Breguet Marina Hora Mundi 5557

The Marine collection is all about the exploration of the seas. Directly inspired by the past of the brand when A.L Breguet was a Chronometer-maker to the French Royal Navy, it’s the brand’s vision of a sporty-chic watch, with a more robust case and comfortable water-resistance (100m). This year, Breguet adds the Hora Mundi 5557 to the collection for those who intend to cross time zones by sailing the oceans. A true traveller’s watch, it has an instant time zone jumping mechanism and synchronised date and day/night indications. Displaying a world map on the dial against a guilloché sea of choppy waves, the Hora Mundi is a GMT watch with an ingenious technical twist that lets you switch back and forth between two time zones at the push of a trigger.

READ MORE: Transition in Time: Breguet Marine Équation Marchante 5887

Louis Vuitton’s Tambour Outdoor Chronograph

The Outdoor Chronograph watch is the latest addition to Louis Vuitton’s distinctive Tambour collection. Inspired by the luxury house’s love of travel and fondness for all things nautical, it’s the perfect watch for the modern sailor. It’s cleverly equipped with two essential functions designed for the urban explorers: A perfectly legible and ergonomic chronograph to keep track of time and an intuitive GMT allowing the setting of a second time zone. The Nautical Steel Outdoor Chronograph comes in a polished, winch-like design, with its gradating blue-to-navy dial and striking blue strap the obvious cues for ocean inspiration as the Tambour Outdoor Chronography GMT Nautical Steel reflects Louis Vuitton’s affinity with the sea.

Panerai Radiomir Eilean Experience Edition Watch

Panerai draws on its nautical heritage with the release of the Radiomir Eilean Experience Edition watch, in a piece that encompasses nautical-inspired Italian design codes. Limited to 50 pieces, the watch is inspired by the classic form of the yacht, Eilean, designed and created by boat builder William Fife and restored by Panerai. It’s a natural tribute for the brand, which began by supplying timekeeping instruments to the Italian Royal Navy. At 45mm, the new piece cuts a slimmer silhouette, the surface of its organic form adapting over time thanks to the bronze on the bezel, crown and caseback, which will take on its own unique patina — an homage to the repurposed metal salvaged from Eilean. Elswhere are other nautical nods, like the textured surface of the blue dial reminiscent of the ripples on a boat’s teal deck.

• READ MORE: New Panerai Radomir Mediterraneo with smoked blue dial

Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Collection

A more sport-oriented tandem of dive watches, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced the new Polaris Mariner Memovox and Polaris Mariner Date. Modelled on a 1960s diver’s alarm wristwatch, the Polaris manages to be sport and slightly retro at the same time. The gradient (or fumè or smoked) blue dial is being used once again. The watches have been upgraded from their 2018 counterpart — water resistance is now 300m instead of 200m — and features a white “lume”. While earlier Polaris limited editions relied on cream Super-Luminova for the faux-aged look, the new Polaris Mariner sticks to clean white luminous paint. The contrast between the white lume and blue dial gives it a clearly more contemporary look, which is further accented by the dash of orange on the dial and hands.

More importantly, the Polaris Mariner pair have also received some functional upgrades, which means they meet the ISO6425 standard for a diving watch. Amongst the new features are screw-down crowns, which is most crucial for the second crown that rotates the inner, elapsed-time bezel. Having the crown secured prevents accidental rotation of the inner bezel, which is can be used to record the duration of time spend underwater. And the screw-down crown also incorporate an orange security band that is visible when the crown is unscrewed, serving as a reminder to screw down the crown before entering the water.

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The Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton, designed by H. Moser & Cie. to mark Cortina Watch’s 50th anniversary, honours the relationship and shared values of these two companies. Only available in 10 pieces, the watch is housed in the Endeavour case – a stellar example of H. Moser & Cie’s contemporary interpretation of the classical round watch. Under its slightly domed sapphire crystal, the fully skeletonised cylindrical tourbillon movement enchants with its concentric motion.

One of Singapore’s most respected names in watch retail, Cortina Watch proudly celebrates its 50th year in business in 2022. Launching a number of unique and limited-edition timepieces with renowned watchmaking partners to mark its Golden Jubilee. H. Moser & Cie. will unveil an exquisite collection in July that includes a limited edition made especially for and in conjunction with Cortina Watch’s anniversary festivities. To celebrate the luxury watch’s grand milestone, H. Moser & Cie. has created a special edition Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton.

• READ MORE: Golden Jubilee: Cortina Watch Celebrates 50 Years Excellence

CEO of H. Moser & Cie., Edouard Meylan, congratulated Cortina Watch on this milestone saying, “We are especially thrilled to be associated with Cortina Watch’s 50th anniversary and to have created this sculptural piece, designed to be a true work of art. The combination of the large, fully skeletonised movement with its contemporary look inspired by the industrial world, with the classical shape of the Endeavour case, as well as the contrast between the anthracite PVD finish on the main plate and the bridges with the red gold case, look absolutely stunning.”

His brother, Bertrand Meylan, CEO of MELB Luxe Subsidiaries, also congratulated Cortina Watch on its golden jubilee, “The connection between Cortina Watch and the Meylan family began with our father, Georges-Henri, and Cortina Watch’s founder, Anthony (Lim), many years decades ago. And subsequently, Jeremy has taken this relationship further, with the establishment of an exclusive partnership between Cortina Watch and H. Moser & Cie. We have fostered even stronger ties since then, and are very proud to be working even more closely with Raymond, Jeremy and Sharon.”

This one-off creation commemorates the treasured partnership between H. Moser & Cie. and Cortina Watch, and at the same time showcases the outstanding creativity and spirit of unconventionality that the Swiss independent watchmaker embodies.

Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton

This limited-edition Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton features a one-minute flying tourbillon equipped with a cylindrical hairspring. Unlike typical tourbillons, a cylindrical tourbillon beats in a concentric motion, which is particularly mesmerising to watch as it genuinely resembles a beating heart. The hairspring, made by H. Moser & Cie.’s sister company, Precision Engineering, has two Breguet curves that helps reduce friction and improve isochronism. It also takes ten times longer to produce than conventional hairsprings. Encased in 18-carat red gold, this Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton measures 42mm in diameter. Under its slightly-domed sapphire crystal, rests a meticulously skeletonised dial with roman numerals, in addition to a sub-dial in H. Moser & Cie.’s signature fumé dial in the iconic Funky Blue colour.

• READ MORE: H. Moser & Cie CEO: Straight Talk on Watchmaking

The crown of this watch is adorned with the Moser “M”, whereas “Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary Since 1972” is inscribed on the sapphire crystal see-through case back. This remarkable timepiece is orchestrated by the calibre HMC 811, a self-winding, three-dimensional Manufacture movement that has been fully open worked. This watch also offers high precision and functionality through the use of an automatic bi-directional pawl winding system with a minimum power reserve of 74 hours.

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The Longines Spirit collection was created to exalt the glory days of aviation, where intrepid flyboys embarked on legendary exploits in the skies. We first covered the collection on its debut in 2020 in issue #59, with time-only and chronograph models. The story is moving on nicely this year, with fresh complications and yet more daring explorers, Clyde Pangborn and Hugh Herndon Jr. They completed the world’s first non-stop flight from Japan to the United States in 1931.

For their 41-hour trip across the Pacific Ocean, Longines furnished the American aviators with a special cockpit clock equipped with double hour and minute hands and two concentric 24-hour dials. This technique of indicating different time zones was first developed by the watchmaker for the Ottoman Empire (today Turkey) in 1908, and from the cockpit clock it was modified to fit onto the wrists of pilots who set out to cross time zones.

Fast-forward to the present, it was only a matter of time before a GMT model took flight in the fledgling Spirit fleet. The new Spirit Zulu Time bears the same moniker as the first Longines dual time zone watch from 1925, which featured the Z flag on its dial. Derived from the NATO phonetic alphabet, “Zulu” or “Z” time designates universal time in military and navigational settings, arenas in which Longines has played a pioneering role.

The Spirit Zulu Time takes a modern approach to Longines’ century-old expertise in tracking multiple time zones, using a 24- hour hand in conjunction with a bidirectional rotating bezel graduated over 24 hours. Local time is adjusted independently, granting the watch “true GMT” status. The time zone mechanism is powered by an in-house automatic calibre that is equipped with a silicon balance spring, COSC chronometer certification, and 72 hours of power reserve — outstanding performance qualities that are reflected in the five stars stamped on the dial.

Outfitted in a 42mm stainless steel case, the Spirit Zulu Time is handsomely styled with matte black, sandblasted anthracite or sunray blue dials and matching coloured ceramic bezel inserts. It achieves a contemporary look without losing any of its retro flyboy charm, which is certainly more engaging than the countless conventional tickers sporting generic vintage cues. If the stainless steel bracelet becomes too utilitarian, simply switch to the interchangeable brown, beige or blue leather strap to enliven the mood.

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If you had to define Bell & Ross watches in a few words, it would be cool tool watches. The new BR 05 Artline challenges this long-dominant view of Bell & Ross, while furthering the promise of the BR 05, which leans heavily on bringing urban architecture to the wrist. We have covered the BR 05 extensively since its launch in 2019, which you can see right here, so we will keep the introduction short. The BR 05 emerged directly from the BR 03, and looks more to city skylines for inspiration rather than technical specification manuals for aviators and a variety of different sorts of military operators. With its relief engraving decorated bezel and bracelet, the BR 05 Artline very clearly channels what is known as Streamline Moderne (aka style paquebot in France, which is more relevant for the Franco-Swiss watchmaker).

In the specific instance of the Bell & Ross BR 05 Artline, Streamline Moderne is specifically referenced as the brand literally describes the watch as a jewel. “We wanted to launch a watch that is dressed, decorated. The BR 05 had potential. Its case indeed offers a vast surface to decorate”, said Bruno Belamich, co-founder of Bell & Ross. The firm certainly has big plans for the BR 05 Artline, already confirming (in writing) that the Artline is “destined” to become its own collection, with other references soon to come. Bell & Ross have clearly decided that this is a momentous watch, and we can definitely see the potential.

• READ MORE: Bell & Ross BR 05 Chrono: White Hawk Edition

The gadroon decoration, to use its traditional name, is very cleverly deployed here to create what is admittedly an ornate watch, but one still tied to aviation. “Several references were running through my head while creating this piece”, said Belamich, also the Creative Director of Bell & Ross. “The first of these concerns air travel.” Indeed, the gadroons not only bring to mind similar decorations on famous Art Deco designs such as the Reverso, but also the corrugated aluminium fuselage of the first transport planes of the 1940s. This is explicitly spelt out by Bell & Ross in the accompanying press information for the BR 05 Artline, and also serves to underline the point that Bell & Ross is still driven by its aviation obsessions. A quick check on the dial confirms that the cockpit instrument aesthetic is still very much in play, despite the fact that numerals have been replaced with baton indexes. These indexes and the baton hands are both SuperLuminova treated for improved legibility, day and night.

• READ MORE: Double Timing With Bvlgari And Bell & Ross

The 40mm BR 05 Artline in steel is a study in elegant robustness, being water-resistant to 100 metres. It is powered by the in-house self-winding calibre BR-CAL 321, which includes a steering wheel-inspired rotor design. The watch is limited to 250 pieces and is a boutique exclusive.

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Of the many different watches out there, the ones that stood the test of time are those that are ladened with history. One such watch is the Raketa “Big Zero”, which has been relaunched recently to reflect the changing consumer tastes. The new version of the Big Zero is a progression from its classic model but still retains the original bold design.

The watch was first launched around the 1980s and the story goes that it was worn by Mikhail Gorbachev during his trip to Italy in 1985. As a public figure, Gorbachev was photographed by the press and the Big Zero was seen everywhere. While looking somewhat simple, the watch is anything but. One has to look beyond the surface to fully grasp the hidden meanings and appreciate the minute details that have been made.

Perhaps the most prominent and unique feature of the Big Zero can be found on the dial. At the 12 o’clock mark, the manufacture chose to start with 0 instead of the traditional numerals “12”. By common standards, this is not a classic watch design but nonetheless, a radical design. Considering the happenings of that time, it was fitting.

When asked about what inspired this bold decision, old specialist of the Raketa factory answered that “it is simply more logical to start counting time from 0”. The brand further elaborated that just like everything else in life, everything inaugurates with 0.

Moving to the other parts of the watch, the original typography and triangle markers have been entirely recreated but its black and white colour palette remains. The sobriety of the watch is juxtaposed with thick embossed printing that brings a touch of three-dimensionality and elegance.

Coupled with a newly designed case that is more “cushioned”, the Big Zero’s dial is spotlighted. The short case preserves the roundness seen on the predecessor model, but the construction is more voluminous and offers a lot of surface where its brushed sides contrasts beautifully with the polished ones.

Before Raketa ventured into horology, the manufacture had been a royal jeweller with 300 years of history. The Imperial Peterhof Factory was founded by Peter the Great in 1721 and served as the progenitor of the current brand. It functioned as a lapidary where diamonds were cut for the imperial crown and produced gemstone luxury goods. In 1936, in celebration of the successful space mission by Yuri Gagarin, watches were produced under the moniker, Raketa. Its heritage is reflected in the synthetic ruby stone that is cut and fixed on the side of the crown; just behind the brand’s logo.

On the caseback, deep engravings are seen around the back and display the water resistance rating at 10 ATM, the brand’s logo as well the name of the watch. Just like how the watch front showcases Big Zero’s affinity to black and white, Raketa’s traditional red colour dominates the back of the watch with the red rotor and red strap lining.

The Raketa Big Zero will set you back €958, without tax. For the comfort of customers, Raketa watches are delivered worldwide free of charge by DHL. Visit the website here to get it.

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