UPDATE (28/8/23): The fallout of this acquisition has begun. The Watches of Switzerland group lost a quarter of its value on Friday morning according to a CNBC report and according to Russ Mould, investment director at stockbroker AJ Bell, investors fear that this could lead to Bucherer receiving preferential treatment over coveted Rolex stock.
All the media coverage and comments we’ve seen across the internet thus far all start with the same way “Did not see this coming.” And indeed we too woke up to this incredibly unexpected news that Rolex has decided to acquire Bucherer, the internationally renowned multi-brand retailer.
For a brand that famously doesn’t own any of its retail boutiques, you can understand why this news caught anyone who follows the industry off guard. Rolex decided to acquire the watch retailer after Jörg Bucherer, in the absence of direct descendants, decided to sell his company’s business.
Bucherer currently operates in Switzerland, the United States, England, Germany, France, Denmark and Austria and of their 100 point of sales worldwide, 53 distribute the Rolex brand while 48 distribute Tudor.
In Rolex’s statement, they attribute this decision to the longstanding relationship both companies have had since 1924 and their business relationship of more than 90 years. Interestingly enough, Jörg Bucherer is the last person still in activity to have known and worked with Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex.
Hans Wilsdorf, founder of Rolex circa. 1945.
Moving forward, Bucherer will keep its name and continue to run independently and its integration into Rolex will only take effect once the competition authorities have approved the takeover transaction. Jörg Bucherer will remain as honorary president of the Bucherer group.
The Galápagos Islands and their waters are amongst the most biodiverse regions in the world. The environment is also home to an unusually large number of endemic species, due to the remote location in the Pacific Ocean, some 900 km from continental Ecuador’s west coast. This unique set of qualities has made the Galápagos an especially important focus of ocean conservation efforts.
Indeed, much has been accomplished. The Ecuadorian government, for instance, established the Galápagos Marine Reserve to protect the islands’ waters in 1998, then expanded the reserve’s coverage by approximately 50 per cent in 2021 to its present size of 133,000 km2. Ocean conservation non-profit Mission Blue, founded by the famed marine biologist and Rolex Testimonee Sylvia Earle, also designated the waters of the Galápagos as one of its first “Hope Spots” in 2010.
Sylvia Earle, Rolex Testimonee and founder of Mission Blue, in front of the DeepSea submersible. In 2022, she led an expedition to the Galápagos Islands Hope Spot.
Far from being a one and done process, ocean conservation is an ongoing endeavour. To that end, Earle led a multi-institutional team of scientists on a two-week research expedition across the Galápagos Islands Hope Spot in 2022. Conducted with Rolex’s support, the Mission Blue Galápagos expedition worked to assess the impact of the existing protections that are in place, as well as to identify the challenges and opportunities for future conservation efforts.
IMPACT STUDY
A Galápagos shark patrols the reefs of the Galápagos Islands Hope Spot.
Earle, a Rolex Testimonee since 1982, is a veteran marine biologist and oceanographer with over six decades of experience in these fields. Her first visit to the Galápagos took place in 1966, when she discovered its waters teeming with life and remarked that they were “the sharkiest, fishiest place” she had ever been. Since then, the wider awareness of the volcanic archipelago has grown exponentially. Unfortunately, this has resulted in greater pressures on the delicate ecosystems of the Galápagos, whether from pollution, invasive species, or demands on its resources. Protecting the region is thus more critical than ever before.
A large part of the expedition was devoted to revealing the hidden and forgotten diversity beneath the waves to provide a baseline value of ecosystem health that can be tracked by future surveys. To do so, the expedition employed a range of cutting-edge technologies such as underwater video systems, which allowed the expedition team to collect population data for little-studied animals such as endemic slipper lobsters.
Alex Hearn, Mission Blue co-Champion for the Galápagos Islands Hope Spot and Professor of Marine Biology at Universidad San Francisco de Quito, retrieves and replaces a receiver that has been detecting tagged marine animals passing by.
To complement the above, eDNA (environmental DNA) analysis was also used. The technique involves isolating and sequencing DNA found in the environment being studied, in this case via seawater samples. The crucial advantage here is that data on organisms that elude visual study can still be gathered. Unsurprisingly, eDNA analysis did turn up interesting results. “Most of our sequences are not matching any public database,” shared Diana Pazmiño, a researcher with the Galápagos Science Center. “[This] means that not many things have been sequenced from the Galápagos, or there are things that are new to science that we have not identified yet.”
This finding paralleled an earlier expedition undertaken by Earle and Salome Buglass of the Charles Darwin Foundation, which took place the year before. During that study, a new species of kelp was discovered deep beneath the water’s surface. The two scientists followed up on the discovery on the 2022 expedition by exploring the Galápagos’ depths in the DeepSee submersible, where they uncovered lush hidden forests of kelp. There are now tentative theories that these kelp forests are critical in maintaining the region’s biodiversity. “Kelp forests in other parts of the world have a critical role in supporting biodiversity,” explained Buglass, “and maybe we have found that piece of the puzzle that explains why biodiversity and biomass are so amazingly rich in the Galápagos.”
Sylvia Earle and Salome Buglass descend in the DeepSee submersible in search of deep sea kelp that may be new to science, during the Mission Blue Galápagos expedition in 2022.
Various other broad-based studies were also undertaken during the 2022 expedition, from mapping the foraging grounds of penguin colonies to measuring microplastic levels. The expedition team continued ongoing long-term research into the transoceanic movements of marine animals too by, for example, capturing location tags of sharks that have come from as far away as the Gulf of Mexico. This is particularly important, as it supports the view that international cooperation is vital to ocean conservation work – as well as the need to expand marine protections further. In 2021, Ecuador, Panama, Colombia, and Costa Rica jointly announced the creation of the Eastern Tropical Pacific Marine Corridor, which expanded and linked the four countries’ protected waters to create a fishing-free “swimway” for migratory sharks, turtles, rays and whales. The expedition’s findings have demonstrated the need for more such swimways – globally, no less – to protect marine wildlife, and the need to think on a larger scale beyond national borders.
A MODEL TO FOLLOW
In many ways, the Galápagos Islands Hope Spot is a bellwether for ocean conservancy as a whole. On one level, the attention and support that the islands receive mean that the region has, arguably, the greatest chance of success in this area. As Earle herself has succinctly asked, “If you can’t protect the Galápagos Islands, what part of the planet can you protect?”
On another level, the work that is being done in the region also has the potential to serve as the model for conservancy projects elsewhere to follow. Alex Hearn, an ecologist from the Galápagos Science Center who convened the team of scientists for the expedition, believes that “if we can get it right here [in the Galápagos], that is a blueprint for getting it right across the planet.” From best practices in monitoring the markers of an ecosystem’s health to cross-disciplinary approaches for reversing human impacts on the environment, the Galápagos Islands Hope Spot is serving as a pioneer in the field, with lessons learned from its management percolating to other Hope Spots – and beyond.
THE BIGGER PICTURE
Argo, a state-of-the-art research vessel, is moored off of Wolf Island during the Mission Blue Galápagos expedition in 2022, led by legendary oceanographer Sylvia Earle, Rolex Testimonee and founder of Mission Blue.
Mission Blue will, of course, continue to establish Hope Spots around the world to protect oceanic regions of significant value. Since its founding in 2009 by Earle, the organisation has already created a network of 150 Hope Spots covering nearly 58 million km2 of the oceans. The goal is to extend this protection to 30 per cent of the oceans by 2030.
Rolex’s support for Mission Blue is part of its overall commitment to protecting the planet. This is an extension of its work in championing exploration – both for the sake of discovery and to push the limits of human endeavour. The brand subsumed its efforts in this area under the Perpetual Planet Initiative in 2019, and currently counts Mission Blue and the National Geographic Society as its major partners. As part of its expanding portfolio of partnerships under the initiative, Rolex also supports diverse projects such as Steve Boyes’s the Great Spine of Africa expeditions, which explores the continent’s major river basins, as well as Coral Gardeners’s work to transplant resilient corals to rejuvenate reefs.
Rolex’s commitment to supporting the individuals and organisations using science to understand and overcome our environmental challenges is long-term. In much the same way, this parallels the manufacture’s approach to watchmaking, which sees it taking the long view on things with a focus on constant improvements in every possible area. Given time, the right resources, and a little luck, the challenges that our planet faces may be overcome yet.
Since its introduction in 1945, the Oyster Perpetual Datejust range has come to define the brand’s technical performance married to distinctive styles. It is a watch designed for everyday life, perfect for every occasion and built to last a lifetime. After more than 75 years, the Oyster Perpetual Datejust remains the epitome of the classic Rolex watch.
In 1957, the introduction of the Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust was a groundbreaking technical achievement, putting a smaller but equally accurate and robust movement into a case measuring only 28 mm in diameter. Offering the best of both worlds, it is a tiny watch with an accurate movement. A landmark in watchmaking, the Lady-Datejust remains the watch of choice for discerning and successful women in the 21st century.
Part of the appeal of the Lady-Datejust no doubt comes from the wealth of options available for each watch. A fluted, domed or gem-set bezel? Exclusive, shimmering dials paved with diamonds or the fascinating hues of mother-of-pearl? Simple or gem-set hour markers, or even Roman numerals? The many faces of the Lady-Datejust make this model one of the most varied in the Oyster Perpetual collection.
At Rolex, form and function are closely intertwined. This is particularly true of the bezel, an essential component in the strong visual identity of Oyster watches. Its intended purpose is to screw down the crystal to the case, ensuring a watertight seal. Over the years, a wide variety of forms, fixed or rotatable, have been introduced, offering new functions according to watch type: diving time, second time-zone, 24-hour display, tachymeter scale, etc.
On the Lady-Datejust, three different bezel options are available: domed, fluted, or gem-set, each conferring its own distinctive aesthetic.
The fluted bezel, a Rolex signature, sports equally sized grooves and ridges radiating outward on the entire ring. These are the ‘flutes’, serving to increase the flat polished surface area and giving the watch an extra amount of shine. Rolex was the first to introduce this aesthetic feature and it has since become a symbol of the brand’s formality and elegance and only offered in 18 ct gold.
For those who want something understated, the domed bezel is the perfect choice. Its polished surface displays a clean aesthetic, imbuing the watch with versatility.
On the contrary, the brilliance of the diamonds in the gem-set bezel is the most visually arresting option. These bezels are adorned with diamonds, sapphires, emeralds, or rubies, carefully set in place by Rolex’s team of in-house gem-setters. Using precision tools, the gem-setter ensures each gem’s topmost facet is perfectly aligned with its neighbour. Rolex tolerates variances of no more than 2 hundredths of a millimetre, which is around a quarter of the diameter of a human hair. It takes the gem-setter’s entire range of skill and know-how to ensure the diamonds, or other gems, on each bezel of the Lady-Datejust sit in perfect uniformity.
The Face of Time: Dials
The selection of coloured dials includes the iconic hues: white, silver, dark grey, and pink, marking the watch as a distinctively Rolex watch, and the dial in mother-of-pearl stands out for its singularity. Depending on its origin, it can be pink, white, black or yellow and differs in intensity and structure, according to the part of the shell from which it is extracted. Best of all, as all mother-of-pearl dials are unique pieces, an identical dial will never be found on another wrist.
The diamond-paved dial is the most eye-catching of all. These dials are a sparkling symphony that enhance the watches and enchant the wearers.
Rolex uses only the highest quality gemstones of natural origin, which the brand itself verifies. Whether it be diamonds, rubies, sapphires or emeralds, the stones must always be the finest. This includes the cut of the stone in particular, as well as its clarity, colour and exact dimensions. Rolex’s know-how comes into play from the initial quality control of the gemstones, for example ensuring perfectly uniform hues when sorting the stones by colour, to the gem-setting process itself.
One unique Rolex offering featured in this year’s Lady-Datejust is the pink opal dial. Requiring painstaking care to cut the natural gemstone into a wafer-thin sheet, the result is a beautiful pink shade dial that lends a stronger feminine presence to the timepiece.
Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust with pink opal dial. Image: Rolex
Giving personality to these dials are the appliques. A selection of Arabic or Roman numerals or geometric shapes are available as hour markers, and they are always in 18 ct yellow, white or pink gold, sometimes filled with luminescent material called Chromalight, or in a colour that subtly complements the dial. Alternatively, the discerning buyer could opt for gemstones set as hour markers. The variety of appliques allows for customisation that can truly reflect its wearer’s personality.
Featuring thousands of unique variations in colour, texture and motifs exclusive to Rolex, the dials are designed and manufactured in-house, largely by hand, to ensure perfection. As a result, an unrivalled dedication to the craft is always on full display.
Aesthetics: The Materials
Image: Rolex
The Lady-Datejust is available in several metal alloys: Oystersteel, 18 ct yellow, white or Everose gold, and in Rolesor versions that combine Oystersteel and one of three varieties of gold (white, yellow and Everose).
Oystersteel is specific to the brand and it belongs to the 904L steel family, a type of steel commonly used in high-technology and in the aerospace and chemical industries. In addition to possessing anti-corrosion properties that are comparable to those of precious metals, it acquires an exceptional sheen when polished.
Everose gold is an exclusive 18 ct pink gold alloy, created and cast by Rolex in its foundry (see sidebar) featuring a pink hue unlike any other. Its formula ensures that it has exceptional durability, can be polished, and an extraordinary sheen that lasts for generations.
Rolesor is a term patented by Rolex in 1933 to reflect a combination of gold and steel on a single watch. A true Rolex signature and a simple concept, it sees the bezel, the winding crown and the centre bracelet links made of precious metals, with the middle case and the outer links made of Oystersteel. The contrasting colours of Rolesor provide radiance and a subtly balanced harmony.
Wearing the Lady Datejust: Bracelets
Oyster bracelet. Image: Rolex
It would be remiss not to mention the bracelets available for the Lady-Datejust. Options here include the three-piece link Oyster bracelet, expandable up to 5 mm courtesy of Rolex’s Easylink system, secured by a folding Oysterclasp; a five-piece link Jubilee bracelet with Crownclasp; or a three-piece link President bracelet with Crownclasp, available only on the Lady-Datejust and the Datejust 31.
The Lady-Datejust is Rolex’s definition of time, with a perpetual movement and a timeless style, heir to the Datejust born in the 1930s. The appeal of the Lady-Datejust is certain with the variety of options available, making it one of Rolex’s most varied lines, yet staying true to the brand’s aesthetic codes. It is undoubtedly, the classic timepiece.
Stop daydreaming about it. You can now witness the Explorer and Explorer II because the Swiss watchmaker is bringing two of its most iconic watches in its chronicle to the heart of Kuala Lumpur.
Happening from 6th August until 14th August 2022, the exhition titled “A Watch Born to Explore” will be held at Pavilion KL, Centre Court for the first time ever in Malaysia. During the exhibition, you will not only able to see the emblems of Rolex for yourself, but also brush up on the history of Rolex through illustrated panels and films.
Created in 1953, the Explorer was moulded by modified Oyster Perpetual, the history-making pieces that Sir Edmond Hillary and Tenzing Norgay wore during the conquer of Mount Everest. A feat of performance in extreme conditions, the signifier of Rolex’s success has undergone multiple iterations. The 2021 version is a model with 36mm Oyster case and luminious Chromalight hour markers, which takes cue from its predecessor.
Born in 1971, the Rolex Explorer II, on the other hand, was made exclusively for the expedition of speleologists. Designed with fixed 24-hour bezel and orange GMT hand, the Explorer II has allowed the devotees of unconventional pursuits to differentiate day and night. The 42mm Explorer II powered by calibre 3285 can also display the time in two distinctive time zones.
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust emerges today as a descendant from the very first Rolex Oyster. The petite 28mm diameter of the 1957 Lady-Datejust was perfect for slender wrists, and so this iconic size has stood the test of time to define the collection as it is today. The Lady-Datejust is one of the most varied lines in the Oyster Perpetual collection, distinguished by its elegance and refinement, and remains only in 28mm. All Lady-Datejust watches feature the signature instantaneous date changing system, along with the Cyclops lens to magnify the watch’s emblematic date display two and a half times for easy reading.
Image: Rolex
Available in Oystersteel, 18 ct yellow or Everose gold, or in Rolesor versions that combine both Oystersteel and gold, the Lady-Datejust comes in a wealth of versions to perfectly reflect the different personalities of its wearers, with a stunning range of bracelets, bezels and subtle dials that enhance its style.
Similarly, since the time of Mercedes Gleitze, Rolex has been associated with a diverse group of women with undeniable substance. From marine biologist Dr Sylvia Earle and sitar-player Anoushka Shankar to pianist Yuja Wang and professional golfer Lexi Thompson, these inspiring Rolex Testimonees are trailblazers in their respective fields with impressive achievements. The list of exceptional women associated with Rolex and the Lady-Datejust goes beyond the aforementioned names. Despite their diverse personalities, you might use the same words to describe these women — graceful and precise, for example — as you would describe any Lady-Datejust.
Image: Rolex
However, the qualities of the Lady-Datejust far surpass mere words. At its core, the Lady-Datejust shares the same unmatched reliability and precision as every Superlative Chronometercertified Rolex timepiece that preceded it. All versions are guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet), which is an unparalleled achievement for an elegant dress watch. The hermetically sealed screwed down case back and the patented Twinlock winding crown, fitted with a double waterproofness system, are responsible for this robustness.
Inside the watches, the self-winding mechanical calibre 2236 is just as impressive as the case, if not more so. Developed and built entirely in-house by Rolex, calibre 2236 offers outstanding performance in terms of precision, power reserve, resistance to shocks and magnetic fields, convenience and reliability. The power reserve of approximately 55 hours is class-leading for watches of this size, and the motion of the wearer provides all the energy the watch needs to keep it ticking perpetually.
With regards to precision, calibre 2236 is officially certified as a chronometer by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). Each movement is tested by Rolex after being cased, to ensure that it meets criteria that are far stricter than those of the official certification. The precision of a Rolex Superlative Chronometer is of the order of −2/+2 seconds per day — the rate deviation tolerated by the brand for a finished watch is significantly smaller than that accepted by COSC for official certification of the movement alone.
A perfect alchemy of form and function, the Lady-Datejust remains a contemporary classic since its launch in 1957, designed and created for the wrists of modern, graceful and accomplished women.
Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust in 18 ct yellow gold, bezel set with 46 brilliant-cut diamonds, white mother-of-pearl dial set with 10 diamonds. Image: Rolex
The Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust is an icon in the world of watches. It was introduced in 1957, at a time where women were changing — they were enjoying new, active lifestyles. They found a new sense of autonomy, and wanted to control their own destinies and manage their time more precisely. Hans Wilsdorf, founder of Rolex, understood what the modern woman wanted, and so was born the Lady-Datejust.
Pioneering women have always been a keystone in the history of Rolex. Since the earliest days of the brand, they have inspired the creation and development of special timepieces that would support their quest for empowerment. The Lady-Datejust is a celebration of those who dare to lead the way. It embodies precision while combining classic elegance and technical performance.
Designed for the slender wrists of women, the Lady-Datejust features a 28 mm Oyster case, guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet), and crafted from Oystersteel or 18 ct gold. Its sapphire crystal is virtually scratchproof, with a Cyclops lens at 3 o’clock over the date. Multiple dial variations are available, in a wealth of materials, colours, markers and motifs, providing the discerning woman with options to customise her watch and make her statement.
Hans Wilsdorf once stated of his enduring mission: “Ladies want the best of both worlds: a tiny watch and an accurate movement. Yet, the smaller the watch, the more difficult it is to make it accurate.”
This is precisely why the Lady-Datejust was ‘inspired by audacity’, as it was a major technical challenge to produce such small precise movements in the 20th century. Since its inception, Rolex has made various improvements to the heart of the Lady-Datejust. Presently, it is equipped with calibre 2236, a self-winding mechanical movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex.
Calibre 2236
Calibre 2236. Image: Rolex
Introduced in 2014 calibre 2236 is a self-winding mechanical movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex, offering outstanding performance in terms of precision, power reserve, resistance to shocks and magnetic fields, convenience and reliability. A consummate demonstration of technology, this movement carries a number of patents. Let’s delve deeper into this movement which is at the forefront of watchmaking technology.
The heart of the Lady-Datejust
Those with a passion for watches know that in mechanical watches, the oscillator is the ‘guardian of time’, maintaining the precision of the watch through the interactions of the balance wheel and the hairspring.
The oscillator of calibre 2236 has a balance wheel with variable inertia regulated extremely precisely via gold Microstella nuts, held firmly in place by a height-adjustable traversing bridge enabling very stable positioning to increase shock resistance. The oscillator is also fitted on high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers, designed and patented by Rolex.
Paraflex. Image: Rolex
The hairspring of a movement is a delicate component that is subject to environmental disturbances that can adversely affect the oscillator’s performance. Magnetic fields, temperature variances and shocks all serve to throw the oscillator off.
To provide greater stability in the face of these disturbances, Rolex developed the new Syloxi hairspring, adding a second distinct paramagnetic balance spring technology to complete its range of high-performing hairsprings, alongside the blue Parachrom hairspring.
The Syloxi hairspring is entirely manufactured in-house by Rolex from a silicon and silicon oxide composite, a combination of materials whose thermo-compensating and paramagnetic properties allow the hairspring to maintain its high precision when subjected to temperature fluctuations and magnetic interference.
Utilising deep reactive ion etching technology (DRIE), the hairspring is crafted with a patented geometry that optimises its isochronism and thus the regularity of the oscillations of the balance wheel-hairspring assembly. The variable pitch and thickness of the coils, optimised along the whole length of the hairspring, ensures constant development in all positions, compensating for the effects of gravity.
Examining the Syloxi would show a hairspring fixed to the balance staff and bridge using a patented flexible collet, eliminating the need for glue and keeping the hairspring’s inner end perfectly perpendicular, flat and self-centring.
Syloxi hairspring. Image: Rolex
Looking along the hairspring, one can see that the Syloxi terminates in a more rigid, reinforced crescent-shaped part that allows a two-point fixation to the traversing balance bridge, ensuring that the hairspring is perfectly centred, perfectly flat and free of any residual mechanical stress in its active zone.
Fixing it this way allowed Rolex to optimise the beat adjustment using a Paraflex shock absorber that features a fluting for this purpose, which is also the signature of Syloxi-equipped calibres.
This marvel of precision engineering provides the Syloxi with great stability in the face of temperature variations; up to 10 times more precision than a traditional hairspring in case of shocks; and higher resistance to magnetic fields.
Also of interest is that the calibre 2236 is equipped with a paramagnetic nickel-phosphorus escape wheel enhancing its resistance to magnetic fields.
Like all Rolex watches, the Lady-Datejust is covered by the Superlative Chronometer certification redefined by Rolex in 2015. The precision of a Rolex Superlative Chronometer is of the order of −2/+2 seconds per day — the rate deviation tolerated by the brand for a finished watch is significantly smaller than that accepted by COSC for official certification of the movement alone.
Perpetual rotor. Image: Rolex
Each calibre 2236 is fitted with a self-winding module via a Perpetual rotor, which ensures continuous winding of the mainspring by harnessing the movements of the wrist to provide constant energy. This offers a power reserve of approximately 55 hours.
As with all Rolex movements, calibre 2236 is made in-house by Rolex, including all components. A timepiece that encapsulates Rolex values, the emblematic Lady-Datejust has been a byword for style and technical performance ever since its launch, celebrating those who dare to lead the way.
Fine watchmaking has plenty of complicated and difficult to understand concepts. By far the toughest to explain is the enduring appeal and value of watches in steel, with some examples commanding the highest value in all of watchmaking. Even worse are the core collection watches that achieve eye-watering prices by being cased in humble steel. This is the reason steel is sometimes called unobtainium in watchmaking circles, being that it is potentially more elusive than even the same watch in platinum.
Part of the reason for the apparently timeless appeal of steel can be found in the key watches of the 1970s, namely the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and the Patek Philippe Nautilus. To this, one might very reasonably add the Vacheron Constantin Overseas, the Royal Oak Offshore, the Aquanaut and the Girard-Perregaux Laureato, amongst others, as well as the entire catalogue of all non-precious metal Richard Mille watches. These types of watches are classed together in the luxury sports watch category, and Richard Mille in particular has legitimised extraordinary price points for ultra-lightweight watches.
In a totally different vein, Grand Seiko brought fine finishing to the sports watch category, and has thus given tangible form to what prestige sports watches could look like. Not for nothing, Grand Seiko has also brought timekeeping innovation to the table, with Spring Drive being the most exciting chronometric achievement (in series production no less) in the last 20 years. Such exercises in chronometric excellence, combine with Richard Mille’s excessively engineered options, to cite just the entire automatic winding system, to provide a showcase of what fine watchmaking can bring to the table, in terms of robustness.
Richard Mille, Hublot, Roger Dubuis, Panerai and Audemars Piguet have also taken luxury watchmaking into never-before-explored realms of high-tech material science. The amazing growth in value — even at the level of detail — of these sorts of watches represents a triumph of marketing. Not necessarily the sort of marketing that creates desire, but the sort that emphasises the real need for these innovative moves.
This is not to say that the non-precious metal watches are a gimmick — Rolex has yet to endorse even titanium but that probably has more to do with its internal logic than any distaste or distrust of contemporary alloys and composites. The proof for this lies, chiefly, in the presence of ceramic, titanium and bronze cases in the Tudor assortment. Watch collectors have been eagerly awaiting the introduction of titanium cases in the Rolex range, and that would indeed have a transformative effect on the overall watch trade. The key to this lies in which price segment such watches would find themselves.
Currently, watches cased in titanium are typically more expensive than steel, and Rolex would likely only use titanium if it could get the same sort of high sheen that stainless steel can deliver. Such innovation in finishing (or in material science) would require a higher price point, thus playing into the hands of the so-called premiumisation forces currently dominating the market.
Here, the example of Audemars Piguet is most useful because CEO Francois Henry Benahmias has demonstrated the effectiveness of banking on selling fewer watches at ever higher price points. By relentlessly applying this strategy, Audemars Piguet has raised its revenues to within striking distance of Patek Philippe, while producing fewer watches. Intriguingly, Audemars Piguet, unlike Patek Philippe and Rolex, is firmly on the titanium path, and has actually made a Royal Oak reference in titanium, but that was for Only Watch. Nevertheless, Audemars Piguet could have changed things up in the Royal Oak game by introducing titanium for the standard 16202 model, but it opted not to. It could also do the same with ceramic, as it already has in complication territory, while also charging a premium price because of the difficulty in achieving the desired finishing.
Given how the Audemars Piguet numbers look, it is only natural that rivals are keenly studying the situation with regards to premiumisation. The playbook would be simple — establish a popular steel model, and then instead of increasing production of that model, introduce precious metal variants, and focus on selling ever greater numbers of those. There will be questions about where the best margins lie, but this may vary from brand to brand. Tissot illustrates an accelerated version of the premiumisation story with its insanely popular PRX model. It began with a quartz model, followed up with an automatic, and now has a steel and gold version. We have no doubt that all versions of the PRX are successful to some degree, because the aforementioned playbook works like a charm.
Watchfinder and other specialists are saying that gold is the next go-to material, and perhaps Patek Philippe will endorse this with exclusively gold versions of the Nautilus, as it did with Ref. 3711. It certainly feels logical to shift the collecting conversation away from steel, at least for awhile. Gold changes the value proposition considerably, and raises the asking price at retail accordingly. This becomes more important, and ever more pressing, as prices on the secondary market for steel watches approach those of the gold versions — they already exceed them in some cases.
Image: Patek Philippe
To close this segment on materials off, we return to Rolex. The brand is doing a masterclass in convincing people to move up the value chain, so to speak, and get precious metal models if steel is simply out of reach. Consider the example of the Rolex Cellini, which is never spoken of as a must-have model, and also that of the Datejust, for broader context. In the first case, you will be hard-pressed to even find a Cellini watch to try on, much less to buy immediately. Here too, you will have to register your interest and wait.
In the second case, we can report that you can still see and try on Datejust models, but you will also be unable to buy any immediately. The Cellini is only available in gold, and a significant proportion of the Datejust range is also only available in precious metals. Clearly, demand for Rolex watches is going far beyond the professional steel sports watch category, but let us look at what a typical watch buying journey might look like for just this one brand.
You would begin, like as not, with the Oyster Perpetual — it might be your first serious watch. After a few years, you might decide that something more substantial might be called for, and now you look to the Oyster Perpetual Submariner with date. From here, you might also consider a Rolesor version of the same, or perhaps even the full gold model. If your wrist could handle it, you might even opt for the Sea-Dweller. From there, you could go in a lot of directions, but you will now have charted a rather specific course in watch collecting.
So, the progression here would be from a simple time-only collection, exclusively in steel, to another collection that also offers gold and half gold options. Well, we say that this is typical but you will find it very difficult indeed to execute this course at this time. It might be that you will have to go straight for that Rolesor Submariner… Once again, if there is any watch you want from Rolex, and fortune favours you, do not hesitate.
The business of pre-owned watches is nothing new, no pun intended. In fact, this section might be punctuated by puns but none are intentional, unless otherwise indicated. There is a lot to get through so we will try to play it straight.
The advance in the pre-owned watch business has transformed the watch collecting in unforeseen ways. It has done this primarily by changing the perceived value of watches. Now the idea behind buying a watch that’s got some wrist time on it is the same as buying a used or secondhand car. Everyone accepts that when you buy a car, what you have is an object with depreciating capital value. In fact, you will lose value on your purchase the moment you drive it off the lot, as they say in the movies. This is also true of watches, by and large. Of course there are exceptions, and those typically prove their worth at public auctions over the years. This has been true for so long that only these few lines were necessary to explain buying a watch pre-owned. Things are quite different in 2022.
Image: Omega
There are new fair market prices for many watch models, totally divorced from the recommended retail price, and you might buy a current production watch several years old that has never been worn, from a third or fourth owner. It would have been unimaginable, just five or six years ago, to buy a current core collection watch from a second-hand dealer at anything even close to the recommended retail price. Try getting a new Rolex Submariner with that mindset and see how far it gets you. Welcome to a world where the now-discontinued Patek Philippe Ref. 5711/1A might cost you more at a secondhand dealer than, say, Ref. 3711 (a watch in white gold mind you). For collectors, which Patek Philippe Nautilus reference to acquire is a serious question, to which there could be many answers. There is a simple problem here that we can use our previous automobile example to elaborate on.
Sticking with the Patek Philippe Ref. 5711A, let us fast-forward to 2026, which happens to be the 50th anniversary of the Nautilus watch. For this exercise, let us also imagine that Ref. 5711A is your grail watch, and you have come to this decision — or realisation as it may be — after years of consideration. While Patek Philippe itself is inviting you to celebrate the anniversary with a specific reference that marks the occasion, you decide to pull the trigger on Ref. 5711A instead. By chance, in the swirling eddies of the deepest reaches of the Internet, you have found a dealer with the reference you want. It is unworn and still in its box — LNIB or like-new-in-box with factory seals intact. By this time, the premium on this model has achieved stratospheric heights that owners of the Ref. 5711/1A can only smile ruefully at. Would you buy this watch, unseen in the metal, take delivery and actually wear it? If so, take a moment to consider the state of the watch you are buying.
Patek Philippe factory warranties are good for two years so you have passed that mark — as noted previously, time starts ticking on the warranty from the moment it is sold by the authorised dealer. The manufacture recommends service intervals of between three to five years, and this is a standard advice from most watchmakers. Given all this, buying a watch that has been sitting in a safe or something for beyond this period, never having been checked even once by its owner, seems suspect. Would you buy a car that you intend to drive in this way?
Of course, this is an extreme example, and traders certainly do not intend to hold onto their inventory for extended periods (as noted earlier). They are not enjoying their watches, after all. Standard fare such as the Rolex Oyster Perpetual, Tudor Black Bay or Omega Speedmaster must all be turned around as quickly as possible, while the market is hot. Even something that might be a little special, such as the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak reference 15202ST will be treated the same. Traders are, as Watchcollecting.com’s Adrian Hailwood said, only buying watches because a market exists for them; to them, the watches may have no value beyond the market price.
It is for this reason, if no other, that we prefer to buy from people who actually wear their watches. They will at least know the state of any watches they are selling, and spend a little time taking care of their pieces. They might even be a little sad to sell certain watches, and we can relate to that. To be perfectly clear, we support the idea of collectors selling their own watches, especially if they have stopped wearing them, or any given watch stops being interesting to them. It happens that one falls out of love with a watch, even if that watch is the Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon, or the Rolex Daytona. Such a watch will certainly be sought-after by plenty of people, and they ought to have a shot at it. And this brings us to a sustainability issue…
Although it is mainly fashion brands that get the bad press about destroying their own unsold inventory, watch and jewellery brands certainly do the same. Just as Burberry continues to be mentioned for a 2018 decision to destroy US$38 million of unsold goods, Richemont admitted — also in 2018 — to buying back and destroying US$560 million worth of watches from Cartier, Piaget and Vacheron Constantin (according to Forbes). In watches and jewellery, brand executives tell us that they always attempt to recycle their raw materials, and that is the approach they prefer to take with unsold inventory.
Nevertheless, we are gratified to see older watches get their due at Cartier, which now sells restored pieces in their own boutiques. These are limited to watches from the 1970s to the 2010s so it is broad enough to include pieces that have passed their prime. Such services are really quite useful because entire collections have been known to come into their own long after their debuts. This includes the now mighty Cosmograph Daytona of course — in watchmaking, it takes time to build an iconic reputation.
The renowned watch historian and author Gisbert L. Brunner noted that collecting watches is a passion that can go deep or wide. As far as building single-brand collections go, the realities of 2022 are generally irrelevant except for those who focus on Rolex. This is particularly true for those new to watch collecting who are going with the safest and easiest to understand approach. It goes something like this: buy Rolex and you cannot go wrong. This seems facetious but, in our view, it includes and incorporates what happens if you buy a watch you do not like. Bought a steel Rolex Cosmograph Daytona only to discover a year later that you do not like chronographs? No problem, because you can easily find willing buyers for the watch. We grant that this scenario is improbable, but it applies to any Rolex watch. That is an appealing proposition, but first you would have to be able to buy a Rolex…
As we wrote in our Festive issue, it is still possible to buy Rolex watches. But it is also true that Rolex boutiques only have display pieces now — to buy a watch you have to register your interest at the store with the authorised dealer. If you find this unacceptable, you could try to find so-called new old stock (NOS) from traders who are on a variety of platforms, including good old brick-and-mortar. The main downside here – there are a few but this is the main one — is that you will be completely outside the official retail system, including the recommended retail price. To state the obvious, the price for all NOS current production models will be above the recommended retail price.
If older watches are your game, then these types of traders will not suit you because they mainly try to ride on the hype (and advertising) for current production models. To be sure, by older here we do not mean models from the 1950s or 60s. Even the Submariner Ref 16610 (produced between 1987 to 2010, and probably the most widely available pre-owned Submariner) will not be in these traders’ inventories. Certainly more esoteric models such as the Oysterquartz and the Prince will not be in stock. The larger players such as Peng Kwee may have options for both. As a seasoned collector, you do not need us to tell you what to do. Nevertheless, we have more to say on the general state of the pre-owned market elsewhere, if that interests you.
Returning to current Rolex models, the burgeoning collector must consider what safety is really worth. Wait times are uncertain, and you are not guaranteed a watch just because you have been waitlisted. We can report that authorised dealers may even refuse to waitlist you for popular models in steel such as the GMT-Master II and the Sea-Dweller. For something like the 126600 Sea-Dweller reference, it becomes relevant to consider the Rolesor version, reference 126603. The current retail price is $23,490 while the reference 126600 is selling pre-owned for upwards of $22,000. On the other hand, if you must have the GMT-Master II with the Pepsi bezel then you have to choose between steel and white gold. The price gap is significant so the pre-owned steel reference is still a better deal, and the steel version is arguably more authentic.
With this in mind, let us consider the state of pre-owned for something like the GMT Master II, while also noting that we address the matter of pricing elsewhere; pricing requires its own dedicated space, and we are obliged by a lack of transparency and regularity in the pricing of watches in general to approach this subject obliquely, by looking only at current recommended retail prices and listed secondary market prices. All that aside, traders have a window stretching a few years at most to clear their inventory, which we consider to be sometime within the five year manufacturer warranty; Rolex warranties are between two and five years, depending on the movements in use. When this warranty goes into effect is a big deal, but first, a bit of a disclaimer.
Full disclosure: the principal author of this section is the editor, and he has been on the hunt for a GMT-Master II since the aluminium bezel first got phased out. With regards to price checks on this watch, his personal research has been used for the story. He is also on the hunt for multiple Rolex watches. Readers should be aware of potential biases. On another note, and to be absolutely clear, professional traders and secondary market dealers will certainly need to move products far more quickly than even the shorter two-year window proposed here. No dealer we spoke with for this story wanted to be quoted on exact figures and practises, and we did a considerable amount of research without disclosing our intent to publish. As such, we must be circumspect and even elliptical in our descriptions.
Back on point, you will have to be careful about warranties because you may not be considered the first owner of the watch, should you buy it. Rolex says the warranty is good from the date of purchase, but this presumably only applies to watches bought from authorised dealers. Consequently, any GMT-Master II that has been sitting on someone’s shelf for too long — even if that shelf is in a proper shop — must be considered suspect. We would recommend purchasing the watch from someone who has actually been wearing the watch, and presumably caring for it. You at least know that such a watch works. Remember that once you go pre-owned, you are out of the safe authorised dealer space.
Finally, Rolex collectors need to resign themselves to having to coexist and compete with investment and asset-protection obsessed buyers. This can be frustrating, typically for people who want current production watches, but it can also be a great boon for seasoned collectors who are primarily interested in vintage watches. Look at the pre-owned prices of Rolex Submariners (reference 16610) and compare this to current after-market prices. This point is true for Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet collectors too, because the new set of buyers are only concerned with existing models. It is also tremendously useful for anyone interested in gold or half-gold watches, for reasons we propose in another segment in this issue.
Rolex has pulled the curtains back on its catalogue for this year’s edition of Watches & Wonders, and it’s no surprise that the collection is superb. Ranging from the Oyster Perpetual Air-King to the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II, there’s a bit of something for every watch fan in this new release. Here’s a quick rundown on three of our favourite models.
Oyster Perpetual Air-King
Oyster Perpetual Air-King. Image: Rolex
Designed as a tribute to the pioneers of aviation, the Air-King is certainly worthy of its name. Featuring a completely redesigned case with crown guard and straight sides (like the majority of Professional category models), the new model exudes quality and class.
Proportions have been given a slight tweak as well, with the most notable change being a broadened center link. The new Air-King is also equipped with calibre 3230, a well-loved movement at the forefront of watchmaking.
Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II
Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II. Image: Rolex
A guaranteed favourite amongst travellers, the GMT-Master II was built to go places. On this model, the crown and crown guard are placed on the left side of the watch. Another marked difference are the date aperture and Cyclops lens which have been moved to the 9 o’clock position.
These significant changes prompted Rolex to make several technical changes on this GMT-Master II. Made from Oystersteel and fitted with an Oyster bracelet, this GMT-Master II features a classic aesthetic and a two-colour monobloc Cerachrom bezel insert in green and black ceramic. This colour pairing is another first for this model.
Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 42
Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 42. Image: Rolex
For the first time ever, Rolex is offering the Yacht-Master 42 in yellow gold — a nod to refinement. Previously offered in 18 ct white gold, the new model will be offered in 18 ct yellow gold. Like the original — which was first launched in 1992 — this Yacht-Master 42 will also include a bidirectional rotatable bezel with a Cerachrom insert and a raised graduation.
Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 42. Image: Rolex
The watch is also fitted with an Oysterflex bracelet, and features calibre 3235. The Yacht-Master is the embodiment binding Rolex to the world of sailing, and this new release blends functionality, luxury and nautical style seamlessly.
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust is in the lineage of the Datejust, the emblematic model that has been a byword for style and accurate timekeeping. Image: Rolex
For an object of such diminutive stature, the wristwatch often has an outsized presence. The bon vivant will absolutely love these four outstanding Rolex watches — while the captivating shine of their diamonds and precious materials will draw in everyone else. The Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust, Oyster Perpetual Pearlmaster 39, and two Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 watches all demonstrate the wondrous pairing of diamonds and precious metals found in the finest of watches by Rolex.
Precious metals such as gold and platinum come to us from the stars, literally. They were born in the hearts of giant stars that exploded and scattered the particles across the universe. Diamonds, by way of contrast are born in the depths of the Earth over the course of a billion years. Through their unique brilliance and the extreme care taken in their setting, the high-quality precious stones selected by Rolex endow gem-set watches with unbridled prestige.
Using only the highest quality gemstones, Rolex own in-house gemmologists and gem-setters work in perfect harmony to reveal the diamond’s radiance. The process begins by sourcing the most striking stones, and then deciding how best to showcase them. As the art of gem-setting lies in ensuring that the sparkle and beauty of each stone is fully revealed, the Rolex gem-setter expertly sets each stone, one by one, taking care to ensure symmetry in size and placement — Rolex tolerates variances of no more than 2 hundredths of a millimetre, which is around a quarter of the diameter of a human hair. A final polish makes the tiny metal settings shine, intensifying the watch’s splendour.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust
The Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust is Rolex’s classic feminine watch par excellence. It is one of the most varied lines in the Oyster Perpetual collection, distinguished by its elegance and refinement. Image: Rolex
The classic Rolex feminine watch, the Lady-Datejust benefits from all the attributes of the Datejust, the emblematic Rolex watch that has been a byword for style and technical performance ever since its launch in 1945. The feminine version of the iconic chronometer, the Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust first appeared in 1957, showcasing the elegance of the Datejust in a small 28 mm size perfectly suited to a slender wrist, and it has retained its iconic size since that time.
Available in Oystersteel, in 18 ct yellow or Everose gold, or in Rolesor versions that combine both Oystersteel and 18 ct gold, the Lady-Datejust comes in a wealth of versions to perfectly reflect the different personalities of its wearers. The range of materials of the Lady-Datejust is equalled only by a stunning range of bracelets and subtle dials that enhance its style.
A fluted, domed or diamond-set bezel? Exclusive, shimmering dials paved with diamonds or the fascinating hues of mother-of-pearl? Simple or gem-set hour markers, or even Roman numerals? The many faces of the Lady-Datejust make this model one of the most varied in the Oyster Perpetual collection.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust in 18 ct yellow gold fitted with a diamond-paved dial and a diamond-set President bracelet
A showstopper of a wristwatch unveiled this year, the Lady-Datejust is paved with sparkling diamonds, with its 18 ct yellow gold case and President bracelet just peeking out between the prongs. The case sides and lugs of the new Lady-Datejust are set with 158 brilliant-cut diamonds as well as 44 brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel. The President bracelet sparkles with a further 596 brilliant-cut diamonds. Showcasing the captivating shine of the diamonds that adorn every surface, the dial is fully paved with 291 diamonds. For an added touch of splendour, the dial also features 18 ct yellow gold Roman numerals that bear a lustrous black finish.
The function of timekeeping itself is uncompromised in the Lady-Datejust, with the watch carrying the Superlative Chronometer certification. This new version of the Lady-Datejust is equipped with calibre 2236, a movement at the forefront of watchmaking technology, entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. It boasts several patents and offers outstanding performance in terms of precision (+/-2 seconds per day), power reserve (approximately 55 hours), resistance to shocks and magnetic fields, convenience and reliability. Especially notable here is the fact that calibre 2236 uses the Syloxi hairspring, which was patented and produced by Rolex. This silicon hairspring remains up to 10 times more precise than a traditional hairspring in case of shocks, and its patented geometry ensures the calibre’s regularity in any position.
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Pearlmaster holds a special place in the Oyster collection; it represents the height of exquisiteness with precious metals and gemstones. Image: Rolex
The pearl in the Oyster collection, the Pearlmaster is synonymous with elegance and brilliance. First introduced in 1992, the Pearlmaster shares some characteristics with the Datejust. This descendant of Rolex’s emblematic Datejust model displays the date, magnified by a Cyclops lens, in a window at 3 o’clock. Only available in 18 ct white or Everose gold, the Pearlmaster is a vivacious blend of watchmaking expertise and artful gem-setting, with its own defining hallmarks. Precise and lavish gem-setting is one such element, with a harmoniously contoured Pearlmaster bracelet being another. All in all, the collection is an exquisite expression of refinement with gently rounded styling.
With its softly curved lines, the Pearlmaster bracelet, entirely set with diamonds, contributes to the distinctive character and sophistication of the watch and offers the wearer maximum comfort. Created especially for the Pearlmaster in 1992, this solid gold bracelet with round five-piece links is fitted with a concealed Crownclasp — which is opened using a Rolex crown-shaped lever — adding to the watch’s aesthetic appeal and ease of use. The bracelet includes ceramic inserts inside the links to enhance its flexibility and longevity.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Pearlmaster 39 in 18 ct Everose gold with dial paved with 713 diamonds, featuring a diamond-set bezel, case and signature Pearlmaster bracelet
The Oyster case of the Pearlmaster 39, guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet), is a paragon of robustness and elegance. The middle case is crafted from a solid block of 18 ct white or Everose gold. Its case back, edged with fine fluting, is hermetically screwed down with a special tool that allows only certified Rolex watchmakers to access the movement. The Twinlock winding crown, fitted with a double waterproofness system, screws down securely against the case. The crystal, with a Cyclops lens at 3 o’clock for easy reading of the date, is made of virtually scratchproof sapphire. The waterproof Oyster case provides optimum protection for the Pearlmaster’s movement.
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date was the first calendar wristwatch to indicate, in addition to the date, the day of the week spelt out in full in a window on the dial — a technical feat at the time. Image: Rolex
Launched in 1956, the Day-Date was the ultimate watch of prestige, and remains so to this day. Watches in the Day-Date range are made only of precious metals — 18 ct yellow, white or Everose gold or 950 platinum. If the spotlight gravitates to you, the Day-Date is a fitting companion, as demonstrated by the many US presidents and eminent figures who have chosen it. The appeal of the collection first captivated President Lyndon B. Johnson in 1965, leading the Day-Date to be known as the “president’s watch”. All Day-Date watches are equipped with the President bracelet, which was specially created for the watch.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 in 18 ct yellow gold, with a turquoise dial, diamond-set bezel and a President bracelet
Resplendent at every angle, the turquoise stone dial and diamond-set Roman numeral hour markers give this Day-Date 36 an air of elevated sophistication, with its diamond-set bezel acting to draw the eye of every onlooker. The middle case is crafted out of a solid block of 18 ct yellow gold, as is the fluted caseback, and the President bracelet. Its distinctive dial features hour markers in 18 ct gold, set with 32 diamonds, and a Roman VI and IX in 18 ct gold, set with 24 diamonds accompanied by the instantly recognisable President bracelet represents the ultimate in refinement and comfort. Like all Rolex watches, the Day-Date 36 s covered by the Superlative Chronometer certification redefined by Rolex in 2015.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 in 18 ct white gold, with a diamond-paved dial, diamond-set bezel and a diamond-set President bracelet
The dial of the opulent Day-Date 36 features 10 baguette-cut, rainbow-coloured sapphires that function as the hour markers. These contrast brilliantly with the diamond-paved dial, creating a sparkling symphony to enhance the watch and enchant the wearer, and everyone around her. To deliver this alchemy of sublime grandeur, Rolex gem-setters have to work carefully and meticulously. They finely carve the precious metal to hand-shape the seat in which each gemstone will be perfectly lodged. Besides the intrinsic quality of the stones, several other criteria contribute to the beauty of Rolex gem-setting: the precise alignment of the height of the gems, their orientation and position, the regularity, strength and proportions of the setting as well as the intricate finishing of the metalwork.
Fuelled by a storied legacy, no efforts were spared in crafting the new-generation movement, calibre 3255. Developed and manufactured by Rolex, calibre 3255 boasts 14 patents and, thanks to its barrel architecture and the escapement’s superior efficiency, the power reserve of this movement extends to approximately 70 hours with an accuracy of +/-2 seconds a day.
The classic watch of reference. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 31 in Oystersteel and white gold, 36 mm case, bright black dial and a Jubilee bracelet.
There is something powerful about having time on your side, which is precisely what you will have with these Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date and Oyster Perpetual Datejust models. The new models we are presenting in this article reflect the strong personalities of the wearers yet convey a sense of poise and purpose effortlessly. Of course, the effortless part only applies to wearing the watches, because they have gone through decades of refinement and development to get them to the status of the modern horological icons they are today.
To get a little more granular here, we are looking at two gem-set Day-Date 36 models in 18 ct Everose gold, one fitted with an Eisenkiesel dial and the other with a mother-of-pearl dial; for the Datejust, there are also two options vying for your attention. One Datejust is in 36 mm with a bright blue fluted motif dial, while the other is a 31 mm gem-set model with mother-of-pearl dial. You only need to feel any of these four watches against your skin to understand, but ahead of that, we will present the case for each of the models featured here. There are also elements common to all Day-Date and Datejust models that we will cover, briefly.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date
This refined, exclusive metal bracelet with semi-circular three-piece links was created in 1956 for the launch of the prestigious Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date.
The Day-Date holds the unique distinction in the brand’s catalogue of being the only model offered exclusively in precious metals. At its launch in 1956, it was meant as the most prestigious watch, befitting only the worthiest wrists. It went on to live up to its billing, appearing on the wrists of the world’s most prominent individuals and visionaries. This included, famously, US President Lyndon B. Johnson in 1965, leading the Day-Date to be called the President’s watch. It is equipped with the President bracelet, which debuted with the watch in 1956, but when Johnson was photographed wearing the watch, the name President’s watch stuck. More recently, women such as Jennifer Aniston and Victoria Beckham have been spotted wearing the Day-Date watch.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 in 18 ct Everose gold with an Eisenkiesel diamond-set dial and a President bracelet
The extraordinarily fetching Eisenkiesel dial seen here in the Day-Date 36 is entirely new in watchmaking this year, making Rolex the first brand to use this decorative stone. Nothing expresses strength and power quite like being a ground-breaker, which the wearer of this watch will be. Eisenkiesel is a type of dark quartz with striped inclusions of iron oxide, making each dial truly one-of-a-kind. The discs of stone produced for the dials are cut from a block of raw material, with each disc individually selected by Rolex designers – only those whose colour and structure fully meet Rolex’s strict aesthetic criteria are selected. This pairs well with the resplendence of the diamond-set Roman numeral hour markers in the 36 mm case endowing the watch with quiet sophistication.
What is entirely contemporary here is the self-winding calibre 3255. Developed and manufactured by Rolex, calibre 3255 boasts 14 patents and, thanks to its barrel architecture and the escapement’s superior efficiency, the power reserve of this movement extends to approximately 70 hours (more than enough to get through the weekend) and an accuracy of +/-2 seconds a day.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 in 18 ct Everose gold featuring a white mother-of-pearl diamond-set dial and a President bracelet
The mother-of-pearl stone dial provides a stunning backdrop to this Day-Date 36 watch, with its combination of round and baguette diamond hour markers. The 36 mm model is thus bestowed with a commanding presence on the wrist, like the exclamation mark on a well-made point. Like its companion model with Eisenkiesel dial, this Day-Date model is also in 18 ct Everose gold and is distinguished by the President bracelet, which was created for this collection in 1956. You can always recognise the President bracelet by its three solid semi-circular links that provides complete reliability and comfort, along with the concealed Crownclasp. Like all Rolex watches, the Day-Date is covered by the Superlative Chronometer certification redefined by Rolex in 2015.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust
Today, more than ever, the Cyclops lens is an inseparable part of the aesthetics of the Oyster collection. It continues to evolve and perpetuate the brand’s singular care for the wearer’s comfort.
The Datejust is a classic and robust watch suitable for daily wear; it is capable of reflecting strength of character too, as this series of stories will show. To begin with, the Cyclops lens, which takes its name from the one-eyed giants of Greek mythology, was patented by Rolex in the early 1950s and introduced for the first time in 1953 on a Datejust model. This innovation makes it appreciably easier for the reading of the date and has become a signature feature that classic watch lovers look out for. On the other hand, the Datejust can be restrained or unabashedly bold with the large variety of configurations available, as its owner wishes.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 36 in Oystersteel and 18 ct white gold fitted with a bright blue fluted motif dial and an Oyster bracelet
New for 2021, this Datejust 36 model showcases a bright blue fluted motif dial, matching the signature fluted bezel design. The fluted motif emphasises the pattern found on a range of Rolex bezels that has become one of the brand’s signature aesthetic styles. This recognisable style adds heft to any owner’s personality.
Launched in 1945, the Datejust was the first self-winding waterproof chronometer wristwatch to display the date in a window at 3 o’clock on the dial. The watch consolidated all the major innovations that the brand had contributed to the modern wristwatch until then. The Datejust has spanned eras while retaining the enduring aesthetic characteristics that make it so instantly recognisable.
The new versions of this 36 mm watch are equipped with calibre 3235, a movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex that was released in 2015 and has been fitted on this model since 2018.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 31 in 18 ct white gold featuring a white mother-of-pearl diamond-set dial and a President bracelet
Diamonds add just the right amount of lustre to this Datejust 31 from all the elements, including the 18 ct white gold of the 31 mm case and President bracelet, to distinguish the owner in meetings and professional settings. Alongside the diamond-set hour markers on the mother-of-pearl dial, the bezel is also fully set with 36 diamonds, whose elegance belies the gemmology expertise and gem-setting skills at the Rolex manufacture. The gem-setters work with tweezers to handle trapeze-cut diamonds, each the size of a pinhead. To get each diamond to sit at the right height on the bezel, they must manually excavate a tiny bit of metal from the cavity. This process is then repeated, three times on average, until the table of the stone – its topmost facet – is perfectly aligned with its neighbour. Furthermore, in terms of the dimensions of the diamonds, Rolex tolerates variances of no more than 2 hundredths of a millimetre, which is around a quarter of the diameter of a human hair. Once finished, 36 diamonds will form the perfectly uniform, radiant circle of the watch’s gem-set bezel. This bezel alone illustrates the wide range of skills and know-how mastered in-house by Rolex.
The Datejust 31 is fitted with the self-winding calibre 2236, featuring a Perpetual rotor that ensures continuous winding of the mainspring by harnessing the movements of the wrist to provide constant energy. It offers a power reserve of approximately 55 hours.
Visit The Hour Glass to discover your very own Rolex watch.
Rolex presented a new generation of its Oyster Perpetual watches, including updated proportions to the venerable Submariner to 41mm case diameter but the freshest injection comes by way of the new series of 36mm Oyster Perpetual watches, in addition to the the new model to the range, 41mm Oyster Perpetual. Unlike its predecessor models which tilted towards a more, sophisticated and refined aesthetic, the new Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 is unveiled with a dynamic and vibrant new look, offering lacquer dials in five new colours: candy pink, turquoise blue, yellow, coral red and green.
New Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 displays the Geneva Manufacture’s Growing Boldness
Underneath that colourful lacquer dial of the new Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 is the latest in-house calibre 3230, the same movement which made its debut in the new 41mm no-date Submariner. Where the Oyster Perpetual 41 presented a the typical elegant aesthetic courtesy of its silver, sunray-finish dial graced with hands and hour markers executed in 18 ct yellow gold, the new Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 brings unexpected colourways to the classic refinement on display of the scintillating profile of the Oyster case made from robust Oystersteel.
Oyster Perpetual 36
Oyster Perpetual 36
Oyster Perpetual 36
Topped with a domed bezel and sapphire crystal coated on the underside with anti-reflective treatment for that extra, un-impeded pop of colour, all five editions feature Chromalight luminous material on the hour indexes and hands, which means that while these new Rolex Oyster Perpetual timepieces will turn heads in the day time, their night time legibility by way of bright blue ‘Skywalker lightsabresque’ lume makes sure that the new Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 is still plenty attractive when night falls.
Colourful dials also available for Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41
According to Rolex, turquoise blue, yellow, coral red and green will be available to the new Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41 as well but the candy pink variant will remain exclusive to the 36mm editions.
The Oyster Perpetual 41 and the new versions of the Oyster Perpetual 36 are equipped with calibre 3230, a movement launched by Rolex this year. The new Calibre 3230, which also appears in new Rolex sport models like the Submariner 41 incorporates the Chronergy escapement patented by Rolex, which combines the Geneva manufacture’s penchant for high energy efficiency with great dependability.
Oyster Perpetual 36
Oyster Perpetual 36
Oyster Perpetual 41
Made of nickel-phosphorus, the movement itself is insensitive to magnetic fields, further supported with an optimised blue Parachrom hairspring, manufactured in house; The exclusive paramagnetic alloy makes it up to 10 times more precise than a traditional hairspring in case of shocks and is equipped with a Rolex overcoil, ensuring regularity in any position. The oscillator is fitted on the Rolex-designed and -patented high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers, increasing the movement’s shock resistance. Thanks to its barrel architecture and the escapement’s superior efficiency, its power reserve extends to approximately 70 hours.
Off the Cuff, On the Wrist: New Rolex Oyster Perpetual
A fresh take on a venerable range, Rolex Oyster Perpetual collection is easily the brand’s most versatile design. The introduction of the 41mm version, which replaces the 39, plays double duty as a more sportive variant, particularly in black or blue dial editions. The new Oyster Perpetual 36 is also perfect in that it addresses a market gap of dressy watches where they tend to lean on the side of dainty. While it’s arguable that the new colourful dials might turn away folks looking for the same discretion afforded by the previous 39mm models, the new Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41 and 36 are still easily the most wearable references for the broader market.
In addition to these colourful dials, three additional variations: a silver, blue, and bright black dial joins the family of Oyster Perpetual watches. Like all Rolex watches, the Oyster Perpetual 41 and Oyster Perpetual 36 carry the Superlative Chronometer certification, which ensures excellent performance on the wrist.
New Rolex Oyster Perpetual Price & Specs
Movement Automatic Calibre 3230 with 70 hours power reserve Case 36mm or 41mm Oystersteel with 100 metres water resistance Strap Oystersteel bracelet Price From US$5600 or S$7490
A child prodigy, Bulgarian operatic soprano Sonya Yoncheva has been “working”, according to her own words during an interview with Metropolis. Yoncheva having studied piano and voice at the National School for Music and Dance in Plovdiv, has achieved a rapid rise to fame in recent years. In 2010, she took both first prize and the special CulturArte Prize at the world’s leading opera competition, Operalia, founded by Rolex Testimonee Plácido Domingo.
I starred in Lucia di Lammermoor at the Opéra de Paris. That was really a highlight of my career because it marked the first time I was trying the Bel canto repertoire. Just a few months ago I was back in Paris to do Don Carlos. That was also a huge recognition of everything I’ve achieved up until now. – Bulgarian operatic soprano Sonya Yoncheva
Rolex Testimonee Sonya Yoncheva
Before long, Yoncheva began to take leading roles across Europe. In 2011, she joined Domingo as a fellow Rolex Testimonee. By 2013, among her many engagements, she performed at the Opéra national de Paris in the title role of Lucia di Lammermoor. Today, she’s part of a Rolex initiative supporting musicians and singers during this critical period of COVID-19.
Yoncheva will be part of Three Rolex “Perpetual Music” concerts held from August will supporting musicians through COVID-19
Starting on 21 August 2020 and continuing through to early September, the three Rolex “Perpetual Music” concerts will take place in Italy, Germany and France. As a preamble at each of the three concerts, Yoncheva and two other fellow Rolex Testimonees – Juan Diego Flórez and Rolando Villazón, will perform the repertoire prepared with singers and musicians, taking turns to perform solo or in various ensembles.
These concerts involve approximately 100 artists whose work and lives have been adversely affected by the pandemic. The concert schedule is as follows: Teatro Rossini, Pesaro, Friday 21 August, with Juan Diego Flórez, featuring an orchestra; Berlin Staatsoper, Tuesday 1 September, with Sonya Yoncheva in a recital programme; the Opéra national de Paris (Palais Garnier), Thursday 3 September, with Rolando Villazón and Renaud Capuçon, featuring a repertoire of baroque and chamber music. French violinist Renaud Capuçon, who will join the proceedings in Paris, also participated in organising this wonderful initiative.
“During these difficult times, when musicians have suffered both the loss of audience and income, our aim is to provide them the opportunity to perform with renowned artists at prestigious venues with the finest acoustics,” said Arnaud Boetsch, Rolex Director of Communication & Image.
Rolex Testimonee Rolando Villazón, in the role of Lucio Silla at the Salzburg Festival in 2013
“By broadcasting the concerts via medici.tv, a Rolex partner for over a decade, we are able to give worldwide visibility to the artists supported by the initiative. Significantly, this gift of time and exposure is in keeping with the company’s pursuit of excellence and its long-term commitment to foster the work of those who aim to reach the pinnacle of their profession. Last but not least, within the context of these unprecedented circumstances, this project is also a way for us to help keep music as an essential element in our daily lives.” – Arnaud Boetsch, Rolex Director of Communication & Image.
Rolex Testimonee since 2005. successful stage director, novelist, TV personality and Artistic Director of the Mozartwoche Salzburg, Rolando Villazón is one of the music world’s most critically acclaimed and treasured lyric tenors and among today’s most versatile artists.
Rolex Testimonee Juan Diego Flórez
With a career that includes performances on the world’s leading stages, Peruvian Juan Diego Flórez has been a Rolex Testimonee since 2015. and is one of today’s most celebrated and beloved tenors.
My watch stands not only behind the hard work I put into my career, but also behind the many sacrifices my family did for me. – Yoncheva on the significance of her Oyster Perpetual Pearlmaster 34
Falling in love with the elegance and tradition of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Pearlmaster 34 in 2016, Sonya Yoncheva acquired it while in Paris. Yoncheva considers it a sign of destiny as Paris had always connected to her career. Yoncheva’s Oyster Perpetual Pearlmaster 34 has followed her over the years, and across many of performances and travels. The Rolex artist was named Medici.tv’s 2017 Artist of the Year. Last year, she was named winner of the 2019 Readers Award of the International Opera Awards, cementing her place as one of the world’s most exciting young opera stars, and her Rolex watch is forever a reminder of a city that helped propel her career, putting her in a position to contribute the perpetuity of the art which has given her everything.
The Rolex “Perpetual Music” concerts are in keeping with the company’s long-standing commitment to champion those who set the highest standards in the world of music, while also helping this art form to endure as an integral part of everyday life.
The writing was on the wall in January 2020 as LVMH launched their inaugural Watch Week in Dubai with a rather optimistic albeit pointed opening address by Bvlgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin citing the late dates of the year’s edition of the Baselworld Watch Fair as being incongruous with product and sales cycles of their watch retailers, prompting a group decision to hold their product launches at the beginning of the year rather than so close to the middle of the year.
The end of Baselworld, long discussed and pontificated among the world’s watch journalists and subject to rumours following Swatch Group’s mass exodus, Breitling following suit, and then eventually leading to the exit of Seiko consisting of both Grand Seiko and Seiko, and Citizen Group comprised of Bulova, Citizen and Arnold & Son, already sounded the death knell for the beleaguered MCH Group AG, the organisers of Baselworld watch fair and Art Basel.
The End of Baselworld as Rolex, Patek Philippe, Tudor, Chopard and Chanel Withdraw
Today 14 April 2020, Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chanel, Chopard and Tudor announced their decision to leave the annual watch fair, ending Baselworld which has roots as far back as 1917 with the opening of the first Schweizer Mustermesse Basel which devoted a hall to watches and jewellery. The watch fair was eventually Baselworld, The Watch and Jewellery Show in 2003.
With Baselworld attendance down 22% for the 2019 edition after Swatch Group announced their shocking decision to depart, opting instead to hold their own Time to Move fair in Zurich. With Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chanel, Chopard and Tudor leaving the Messeplatz halls, they will create a new watch trade show in Geneva with the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, the organisers of the now-defunct SIHH, recently renamed Watches & Wonders Geneva.
The decision comes after a communique from Rolex Head of Investments & Logistics Hubert J. du Plessix, and current president of the exhibitors’ committee of Baselworld was leaked to watch press and later rebutted in Le Temps by Michel Loris-Melikoff, director-general for Baselworld. MCH had postponed the Baselworld watch exhibition as a result of the worsening coronavirus pandemic but refused to offer any significant refunds, opting instead to offer unpalatable options to carry forward the majority (from 70%) of the exhibition fees to the next edition and reminding exhibitors that exhibitors’ contracts do not compel it to provide any refunds.
Mr du Plessix, speaking on behalf of the small exhibitors last week on 7 April 2020, denounced MCH for hiding behind a “rigorous reading of contractual provisions to justify its position” of only making partial refunds amidst extenuating, unforeseen circumstances. Insult to injury, exhibitors received reminders in February, during the growing outbreak, to pay outstanding fees for Baselworld 2020 and later followed up with deadlines to accept partial-refund proposals by end April.
“The Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie is delighted to welcome a new salon which will strengthen the historical Watches & Wonders event in Geneva next year in early April.” – Jérôme Lambert, on behalf of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie Council
With the biggest legacy exhibitors, Rolex and Patek Philippe and Chopard departing, the latest move signals the end of Baselworld. The show will be held early April 2021 at Palexpo, will be linked to Watches & Wonders Geneva.
Other brands may also be added, and the new event will be geared predominantly towards retailers, the press and VIP customers, similar to Watches & Wonders Geneva. LUXUO and World of Watches have published the brand CEOs’ full remarks without edits:
Jean-Frédéric Dufour, Chief Executive Officer, Rolex SA, and Board Member, Montres Tudor SA, said: “We have taken part in Baselworld since 1939. Unfortunately, given the way the event has evolved and the recent decisions made by MCH Group, and in spite of the great attachment we had to this watch show, we have decided to withdraw. Following discussions initiated by Rolex, it seemed only natural to create a new event with partners that share our vision and our endless, unwavering support for the Swiss watchmaking sector. This will allow us to present our new watches in line with our needs and expectations, to join forces and better defend the interests of the industry.”
Thierry Stern, President, Patek Philippe said: “The decision to leave Baselworld was not an easy one to take for me, being the fourth generation of the Stern family to participate to this traditional yearly event. But life evolves constantly, things change and people change as well, whether it is at the level of those responsible for the watch fair organization, the brands or the clients. We constantly have to adapt ourselves, question what we do, since what was right yesterday may not necessarily be valid today!
Today Patek Philippe is not in line with Baselworld’s vision anymore, there have been too many discussions and unsolved problems, trust is no longer present.
We need to answer the legitimate needs of our retailers, the clients and the press from around the world. They have to be able to discover the new models from Swiss watchmakers each year, at one time, in one place, and this in the most professional manner possible.
That is why, following several discussions with Rolex and in agreement with other participating brands, we have decided to create, all together, a unique event in Geneva, representative of our savoir-faire.“
Frédéric Grangié, President of Chanel Watches & Fine Jewellery said: “Like its partners, CHANEL shares the same independence and the same desire to protect and promote the values, know-how, utmost quality and precision of Swiss Watchmaking. This initiative marks a key milestone in the history of CHANEL Watchmaking and is part of a long-term strategy, which began with the launch of this activity in 1987. This exhibition will allow us to present all of our new creations in an environment that meets our high-quality standards.”
Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Co-President Chopard et Cie SA said: “Chopard first exhibited at the Basel fair in 1964 with a stand of some 25 square metres. After careful consideration, our family decided to support the Rolex initiative and retire from Baselworld – a painful decision. The creation of this new watch show in Geneva, in parallel to Watches & Wonders, will allow us to better serve our watchmaking partners and our customers. Through the alliance, these grandes maisons will also be able to collaborate in promoting the values and best interests of Swiss watchmaking.”
Rolex can do no wrong. We are currently experience peak vintage Rolex demand and perceptually speaking, it would seem entirely reasonable that here, at the precipice of watch perfection by way of cerachrom bezels, parachrom bleu balance brings and Rolex Rolesor, one would seek meaning in the poetry of time’s eternal metaphysically and material impermanence as embodied in that literal contradiction of a mechanical timepiece – something created for immortality but held hostage to temporal erosion. But what if, we could roll time back to an age where we stood at the crossroads, looking forward at a new age of nascent material sciences and backwards towards a time when we were wildly innovative with available resources? That era would probably be the 1980s, best exemplified (horologically speaking) by the Rolex Explorer II with Cream Dial in Stainless Steel.
Cream dial Rolex GMT Explorer II circa 1987 on offer
Yes, the GMT Explorer II ref. 16550 was that quintessential product of the 1980s, (17 March 1987 to be precise), created during that confluence of material and technical progression; to use an analogy – if our present period is represented by Captain Picard’s Star Trek Next Generation’s “materially utopian” future, the 80s was Kirk’s Original Star Trek along with all the experimental antics and attempts of the era – Starships were a little less perfect and more prone to quirks – in essence a period of evolutionary flux.
To our modern perspective, the Rolex GMT Explorer II, evolving from the Ref. 1655 to the 16550, has become a binary of black or white dials framed with a steel bezel. Obviously speaking, this is a cream dial Rolex Explorer II from circa 1987 therein which lies its charm and appeal. In a literal dichotomy of black or white dial vintage and modern GMT Explorer IIs, this Rolex Explorer II with Cream Dial is a “black swan’ and hence a rarity. Combined recent demand for faux-patina, bronze and salmon coloured dials, the provenance and authenticity of a cream dial Rolex GMT Explorer II is a little hard to beat although the asking price might give one pause.
That said, its asking price at $33,500 is not altogether unreasonable, it’s hard to find a 1980s cream dial Explorer II in such good condition. According to 1stDibs, this cream dial ref. 16550 comes “Complete With: Box, Calendar Card, Swing Tags, Rolex Document Wallet, Service Guarantee Dated 29th March 2011 & Guarantee”. That said, LUXUO and World of Watches makes no claims or veracity as to whether the vintage Rolex GMT Explorer II has been refinished. Near as we can tell, the timepiece is still in relative good shape – the bevels on the lugs are still present but not exactly ‘crisp’, the brushed finish is still sharp, the mid case is still well finished and holds its shine while the Oyster-style bracelet with easy release clasp looks without significant wear (but there are markings on two mid links – whether from dirt or abrasion it’s hard to tell) and almost no stretching – it almost looks new, which again, is another discussion between the two camps of vintage Rolex collectors, some preferring a more worn-in look and others preferring a more “new old stock” appearance.
Suffice it to say, the biggest concern would be replica components to make the cream dial Rolex GMT Explorer II into a more “in-demand” reference but as mentioned, with full box and papers (and even its swing tags), there are people who have paid more money on a similar reference with more questionable provenance. Rolex only produced the ref.16550 from 1985 to 1989, making it a rare “transitional” model.
More often than not, watch aficionados appreciate when a watch brand introduces a completely new model as a celebration of innovation. What new watch models tend to offer is a fresh perspective without any preconception. That being said, there are exceptions where subtle and more nuanced improvements are valued over an entire facelift as well. Indeed, for a brand like Rolex, it is exactly the case.
Introducing the New Rolex GMT-Master II Ref.126710 BLNR
Rolex brought to Baselworld 2019 an updated version of the Rolex GMT Master II “Batman”, modified with a new caliber 3285 movement and a Jubilee bracelet. Comparatively, the new GMT is more a revitalised version of last year’s GMT Master II “Pepsi” than the blue and black BLNR GMT Master II from 2013.
The new Batman echoes the same features as last year’s Pepsi – the emblematic two-tone bezel, 40mm Oyster case and slightly redesigned lugs to accommodate the new bracelet. There is not much evolution in terms of the design and its functions. The watch still flaunts the central axis, a date window and GMT hand, as well as the ability to display two different time zones simultaneously.
The most significant difference is the blue and black bezel in contrast to Pepsi’s red and blue, giving a modern twist to the slightly vintage looking watch. As far as a sports watch goes, this is about as charming as it can get.
Equipped with the new caliber 3285, the Batman boasts Rolex’s advancement in watchmaking technology. Despite being visually identical to the BLRO GMT and the original BLNR GMT, this model represents what Rolex does best to resonate with Rolex enthusiast: Taking a cult favourite model and improving them in minimal, tangible ways rather than flashing new models every now and then.
And since the old Batman and the BLRO GMT with an Oyster bracelet are officially discontinued, Loyal GMT lovers can now revel in the launch of the new BLNR available in a highly comfortable, perfectly executed Jubilee bracelet.
Rolex GMT-Master II Ref.126710 BLNR Price & Specs
Movement Automatic Calibre 3285 with 70 hours power reserve Case 40mm Oystersteel with 100 metres water resistance Bracelet Jubilee bracelet with Oysterlock clasp Price From SGD12,430 or CHF 8,800
