Designed for Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos Dumont in 1904, the namesake Santos de Cartier is the first watch designed specifically as a wristwatch in the early 20th century when pocket watches were still de rigueur and the trend for wrist watches was just beginning.
Conceived 5 years before the iconic Cartier Tank, the Santos de Cartier has, since its creation, always been defined by the screwed-in bezel, square dial with Roman numerals and its soft angular square case.
For SIHH 2019, Cartier unveils the new Santos-Dumont timepiece – an understated, pared-down, authentic interpretation fitted to an alligator leather strap.
Santos Dumont
Cased in gold, gold and steel or all steel, the new Santos Dumont at SIHH 2019 takes the signature design codes like Roman numerals, visible screws on bezel (a major “faux pas” in luxury watchmaking of that era) , beaded winding crown sans crown guards and blue cabochon, and continues the legacy of the early watchmaking classic.
The basic geometry while greatly refined, remains unchanged. Promoting the pure and symmetrical mirroring the four corners of the Eiffel Tower, the Cartier Santos Dumont symbolised the design revolution of the early 1900s when it ran counter-current to the time period’s accepted watch design codes.
While it is anyone’s guess why Cartier chose a high autonomy quartz movement for the new Santos Dumont when the Maison could just have easily equipped it with an ultra-thin calibre, it is our guess that in opting for quartz, the pure, pared-down Santos Dumont timepiece could then be offered at greatly enticing price points for a wider market.
With an ultra-thin movement, it would be available only to the most dedicated of connoisseurs but with the 6 years run-time high autonomy quartz calibre, Cartier makes the most potent argument this SIHH 2019 with peerless practicality in its contemporary reflection of the style of Alberto Santos Dumont.
Able to operate twice as long as traditional quartz movements, the SIHH 2019 Cartier Santos Dumont’s high-efficiency quartz movement was achieved with a reworked and resized movement for reduced energy consumption and then powered with a new high-performance battery.
Santos Dumont Price and Specs
Movement High autonomy quartz calibre with 6 years power reserve
Case 38mm Stainless steel with black ADLC bezel, stainless steel with yellow gold bezel, and rose gold with 30 metres water resistance
Strap QuickSwitch system bracelet and/or leather
Price From US$5,500
Santos de Cartier Chronograph
2018 saw the reinvention of the Santos collection and since a chronograph has always been part of the series, it is fitting that for SIHH 2019, Cartier re-introduces the Santos de Cartier Chronograph in similar 43.3mm proportions as its contemporary pioneer.
Available in three variants: stainless steel with a black ADLC steel bezel, stainless steel with an 18k yellow gold bezel, and solid 18k rose gold, the 2019 Santos de Cartier Chronograph features a greatly modified 1904-CH MC chronograph calibre which eschews the traditional pushers around the crown layout for a more symmetrical look – putting start/stop pusher on the left side of the new Santos de Cartier chronograph and then mirrored by the crown with reset function itself integrated into the crown.
Of great horological interest is how the new Santos de Cartier chronograph makes a subtle reference to the Cartier Paris Collection Prive or CPCP mono-pusher chronograph operation concept found on vintage Cartier Tortue Chronograph models. This attention to elegance and ergonomics simply takes that heritage into the 21st century.
Fitted with the 1904-CH MC Cartier Manufacture movement, the SIHH 2019 Santos de Cartier chronograph features a fine watchmaking chronograph calibre with column wheel, vertical clutch, and linear reset hammer.
New Santos de Cartier Chronograph Price and Specs
Movement Automatic calibre 1904-CH MC with 48 hours power reserve
Case 43.3mm Stainless steel with black ADLC bezel, stainless steel with yellow gold bezel, and rose gold with 100 metres water resistance
Strap QuickSwitch system bracelet and/or leather
Price From US$8,950 to US$24,700
Santos de Cartier Skeleton Noctambule
If the latest Santos Dumont was a spiritually authentic interpretation of the milestone 1904 wristwatch, the new SIHH 2019 Santos de Cartier Skeleton Noctambule can be considered a postmodern variant. With bridges are coated with Super-LumiNova pigments, the new Skeleton Noctambule looks similar to the first Santos de Cartier Skeleton by day but by night, the Super-LumiNova coated bridges light up the countenance of the timepiece.
The new Santos de Cartier Skeleton Noctambule is equipped with the Manufacture calibre 9612 with manual winding and skeletonised bridges in the shape of Roman numerals.
Santos de Cartier Skeleton Noctambule Price and Specs
Movement Manual winding calibre 9612 MC with 72 hours power reserve
Case 38mm Stainless steel with black ADLC bezel, stainless steel with yellow gold bezel, and rose gold with 30 metres water resistance
Strap QuickSwitch system bracelet and/or leather
Price From US$27,000
