Tag Archives: SIHH 2018

SIHH 2018: Panerai L’Astronomo Luminor 1950, Panerai’s First Moonphase

The last milestone for Officine Panerai was 2016’s superlative Radiomir 1940 Minute Repeater Carillon Tourbillon GMT. This year marked a new major milestone for the manufacture with the SIHH 2018 Panerai L’Astronomo Luminor 1950, Panerai’s first moonphase.

In Officine Panerai’s brand book, the manufacture often claims inspired muse from the works of fellow Italian, Galileo Galilei. Oddly, Galilei’s fascination with the skies never really translated into a astronomical novelty per se but fortuitously this all changed with the SIHH 2018 Panerai L’Astronomo Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation of Time GMT, a Panerai’s tribute packed with astronomical complications commemorating the 400th anniversary of the first observation of the sky by Galilei after the invention of the telescope.

SIHH 2018 Panerai L’Astronomo Luminor 1950, Panerai’s first moonphase

When study of the skies, a field almost as old as the story of mankind itself combines with classical watchmaking in the Panerai L’Astronomo, the resulting expression of high-end watchmaking is to be reckoned with. The Astronomo, an imaginatively named Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation of Time GMT is Officine Panerai’s first timepiece with a moonphase complication. L’Astronomo uses an innovative system of polarised crystals to indicate the date and intriguely, it’s not a limited production or series production piece but rather a new made-to-order Panerai Luminor which can be personalised to the owner’s home region.

While it is notable that this is Panerai’s first moonphase equipped watch, it would be a tragedy to not also call your attention to first use of the brand’s patented tourbillon regulator and a new date display, ingenious for using polarized crystals. The last time we saw a calendar of time complication combined with a tourbillon, it came in Panerai’s 2010 novelty, L’Astronomo, which featured a calendar and sunrise/sunset display; like the new SIHH 2018 Panerai L’Astronomo Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation of Time GMT, both pay homage to Galileo Galilei. All the features included in the 2010 L’Astronomo are present in 2018’s L’Astronomo, plus the GMT, moon-phase, and new date system, making it one the most function-packed Panerai high complications to date.

Like its predecessor, the new L’Astronomo – Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation of Time GMT is made to order, and the skeletonised movement, the P.2005/GLS (standing for Galileo Luna Scheletrato), is personalised to operate in accordance with the geographical coordinates of a place chosen by the client, this ensures that the moon-phase indication always corresponds to the precise phase of the moon over the owner’s geographic location.

It’s perhaps a point of intrigue that the moonphase is not prominently shown on the face of the SIHH 2018 Panerai L’Astronomo but it is also behooves us to mention that this isn’t your traditional moonphase. Located on the back of the movement, the Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation of Time GMT’s moonphase complication incorporates a day-night indicator composed of two superimposed disks that rotate in concert with each other.

The upper disc – which is read by a small external index fixed onto the movement – displays the 24 hours of the day, showing the sun during the hours of daylight and the stars of the sky at night. At the centre of the starry sky is a little round window through which the lower disc can be seen; on this appears the moon, its shape evolving day by day as a result of a small supplementary rotation of this disc of about 6.1° per day, a figure based on the exact duration of one lunar cycle (an average of 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 3 seconds). Thus, for such a precision moonphase display requiring adjustment only once every 122 years, it made sense to have it reflect the moon as precisely over his exact geographic location.

Like the moon phase indicator, the indicators of sunrise and sunset times are connected to home time and therefore, if the owner of the watch should find himself in a city with a different time zone from that of the chosen city, these indicators will continue to show the situation at the time at home, which is indicated by the GMT hand.

Finally, at six o’clock is the linear indicator of the equation of time, which displays the difference between actual time (solar time) and conventional time on each day, this period ranging between plus 15 minutes and minus 15 minutes, according to the time of year.

Caliber P.2005 Galileo Luna Scheletrato or P. 2005 GLS features Panerai’s patented tourbillon regulator system — visible from the front and back of the watch thanks to the skeletonization of the movement — while the rotation of the tourbillon differs from what one might see in a traditional tourbillon (it’s actually shares similarity with the escapement architecture like that of a Hautlence HL 2.0),  the balance cage still rotates continuously on itself albeit in a perpendicular direction rather than parallel, canceling out any variations caused by gravity and possible shocks. Another point of difference is that the cage in Panerai’s system rotates every 30 seconds, rather than once per minute as in most other tourbillon escapement; the higher speed and the particular arrangement of the mechanism mean that any possible alterations of rate are effectively compensated, resulting in more accurate timekeeping.

Enhancing the skeletonised nature of the SIHH 2018 Panerai L’Astronomo Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation of Time GMT  is the date disc designed to compensate a flaw in most other skeletonised watches – the date disc often obscures thorough view of the gearworks. The patent pending in-house Panerai date disc is made of borosilicate glass and the numbers of the days have laser-modified optical properties. The numbers are virtually invisible in all positions except for the one that is aligned with the little date window, where a further polarized crystal, situated above the date disc, causes the number to appear so that it is perfectly legible.

As a result,  all the elements which would be found in a traditional dial appear on the movement or the flange, and the two spring barrels, which store enough power to last at least four days, are visible through the open back, which also enables the power reserve indicator mounted on the movement to be read.

Your own bespoke Panerai L’Astronomo Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation of Time GMT

As well as the technical personalisation of the P.2005/GLS movement, the new L’Astronomo – Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation of Time GMT also provides the opportunity of selecting the material and finish of the case, the colour of the hands and that of the Super- LumiNova® which makes the watch’s indications extremely readable even in the dark, as well as the colour of the alligator strap. In this way each client can create an individual watch of great character and elegance, for example choosing between a red gold or a white gold case, or the brushed titanium case of the basic version of the L’Astronomo for a more sporty and functional appearance.

2018 Panerai L’Astronomo Price and Specs

Naturally limited by production time
Case 50 mm brushed titanium with 100 metres water resistance
Movement Hand-wound mechanical P.2005/GLS calibre with 96 hours power reserve
Strap Black alligator leather strap
Price On request depending customisation

SIHH 2018 Cartier Santos de Cartier, designed for eCommerce Sales

The Tank, Panthére and Santos have been classic Cartier watch icons for generations. Over the years, the Tank (recently celebrating its 100th anniversary) and the Panthere have seen design updates and thus the Santos was a revamp waiting to happen. More importantly, the new SIHH 2018 Cartier Santos de Cartier is a pioneering watch designed specifically for eCommerce Sales.

Alberto Santos-Dumont was close to Gustave Eiffel, Jules Verne, and other members of the industrial, artistic and scientific elite. But when he met Louis Cartier in 1900, little did he realise that he would inspire the world’s first purpose designed wristwatch (and a literal aviator’s watch at that). The legend of the Santos de Cartier was birthed in 1903, a short two years after Santos-Dumont complained to Cartier about difficulty checking time on his pocket watch mid-flight. It is from this pivotal moment in history that Cartier would pioneer the first wristwatch, just as the new SIHH 2018 Cartier Santos de Cartier is a pioneering watch designed specifically for the eCommerce age.

SIHH 2018 Cartier Santos de Cartier, a revamped collection designed for eCommerce Sales

Just as the original Cartier Santos perpetuated the style and spirit for men like Alberto Santos-Dumont who changed the world, the new SIHH 2018 Cartier Santos de Cartier is proactive in its evolution and transformation much in the same way Louis Cartier heralded a new watchmaking era at the dawn of the 20th century for the maison and the industry at large.

Like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak which followed over 50 years later, the distinctive aesthetic of the Cartier Santos symbolised the modern era with its progressive design developed in the age of engineering. The new SIHH 2018 Santos de Cartier watch stays true to this original philosophy by reflecting the innovative, ever-changing spirit of its own age.

How does one update a classic?

For the Year of the Santos, Cartier focused on comfort, intelligent proportions and respect for the avant garde aesthetic, for starters, the new SIHH 2018 Cartier Santos de Cartier extends and improves upon its artistic DNA: first, the square shape remains unchanged, echoing the refinement and symmetry of Parisian geometry expressed in the four angular corners of the Eiffel Tower.

Next, the eight screws on the bezel return, a hat tip to the proliferation of mechanical steel structures associated with a golden age of urban architecture. Where the purely functional element was previously concealed , Cartier dared to display it as a point of art and conversation.

How does one update a classic? By evolutive steps. The bezel of the new Santos de Cartier has been updated to favour the synergy between the lines of the case and the strap, accentuating the stylistic dynamic of the watch. Like the original, the strap too is a defining element in the Santos de Cartier, where once it was used to make the world’s first modern wristwatch, the new Santos de Cartier features an innovative strap in keeping with the spirit of our time.

The new strap, capable of rapid change via button press, caters to modern lifestyles and ease of movement, and can be tailored to suit any occasion according to the choice of materials and colours; dubbed the Cartier QuickSwitch system (patent pending), the invisible mechanism hidden under the strap blends into the structure of the case and, to activate the system, the wearer simply presses the mechanism.

How is the Santos de Cartier designed for the eCommerce Age?

After considering the hassle involved for consumers ordering a watch through an eCommerce platform and then having to go to a watch retailer or boutique for bracelet adjustment in order to fit the wrist comfortably felt archaic and illogical. To counter this point of madness, Cartier invented the cutting-edge SmartLink self-fitting technology (patent pending). With this innovative Smartlink system, the owner simply adjusts the length of the metal bracelet to the nearest link without the use of a tool, thanks to hidden buttons located on each SmartLink. At a push, the attachment bar is unlatched and one of the brushed metal links with screws can be added or removed from the Santos de Cartier watch.

Even the movement of the new SIHH 2018 Cartier Santos de Cartier is designed for the future: the new 1847 MC automatic calibre is ever ambitious and as pioneering as the first Santos created for Alberto.

The calibre 1847 MC features anti-magnetic nickel phosphorus components in the escapement and movement mechanisms, as well as a shield made from a paramagnetic alloy, rendering the calibre effectively resistant to the powerful magnetic fields a watch may be exposed to in everyday life.

Furthermore, thanks to the screw-down assembly design, the new Santos de Cartier offers water- resistance up to 100 meters with minimal case thickness, a rarity of watches as dressy as the new SIHH 2018 Santos de Cartier.

Santos de Cartier Price and Specs

Case Available in 35.1mm, 39.8mm sizes and varying materials: Stainless steel, stainless steel and yellow gold, pink gold, yellow gold and features 100m water resistance
Movement Automatic 1847 MC with 42 hours power reserve
Strap Variety of leather, steel and precious metal bracelets with quick-change system and SmartLinks for bracelet adjustment
Price Starting from US$6,250 to $60,000 for Santos de Cartier Skeleton in pink gold

Zenith Pilot Cronometro Tipo CP-2 Flyback – Once Limited Edition, Now Series Production

Zenith Pilot Cronometro Tipo CP-2 Flyback – Once Limited Edition, Now Series Production. Photo: Jonathan Ho

In October 2016, Zenith released a limited edition re-issue of its famous 1960s Cairelli chronograph issued to the Italian military; outside SIHH 2018, the Zenith Pilot Cronometro Tipo CP-2 Flyback makes a comeback, a contemporary interpretation of vintage Pilot chronograph updated with brand new case materials and new functionality.

For 2018, the Guiding Star revives its famous 1960s Cairelli chronograph with the Zenith Pilot Cronometro TIPO CP-2 FLYBACK, available in a choice of bronze or aged stainless steel with new aesthetic elements.

Zenith Pilot Cronometro Tipo CP-2 Flyback – Once Limited Edition, Now Series Production

The Heritage Cronometro Tipo CP-2 launched in 2016, was itself inspired by an exceptional military and horological treasure within the archives of the Le Locle Manufacture – as history would have it, the original military chronograph created throughout a decade from the mid-1960s on, was commissioned by the Italian Army through the Italian dealership A. Cairelli in Rome. ‘CP’ stands for cronometro di polso (wrist chronometer). Due to its high demand, the 2,500 units of the Italian military issue Cairelli chronograph has managed to command stellar prices at auction and on the vintage resale market. Zenith’s subsequent Limited Edition Heritage Cronometro Tipo CP-2 too was sold out 50 years after the legend and today, the Star releases the new Zenith Pilot Cronometro TIPO CP-2 Flyback, now equipped with an automatic El Primero column-wheel chronograph with flyback function.

The new Zenith Pilot Cronometro TIPO CP-2 Flyback, now equipped with an automatic El Primero column-wheel chronograph with flyback function. Photo: Jonathan Ho

The famous Zenith El Primero chronograph calibre returns, where the 2016 Zenith Cronometro Tipo CP 2 uses the 4069 automatic chronograph caliber, itself similar to the El Primero. The new 2018 Zenith Pilot Cronometro TIPO CP-2 Flyback uses the ruggedly reliable El Primero 405B version of the movement with flyback function. As with all variants of the El Primero, it bears signature  high beat frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour.

Zenith Pilot Cronometro Tipo CP-2 Flyback Price, Specs and Availability

Case 43mm Bronze or aged stainless steel with 100m water resistance
Movement Automatic El Primero 405B flyback chronograph calibre with 50 hours power reserve
Strap Rubber lined Brown oily nubuck strap for bronze or green oil nubuck strap for aged stainless steel
Price US$7,600
Available from Feb 2018