For most of the big watch brands that are now part of even bigger watch groups, 35 years may not seem like a big deal, but for relatively new watch companies like Luminox, surviving the harsh landscape that is the horology industry for this amount of time is a definite cause for celebration. And celebrate they have, as this year they launched three new Luminox watches, one for the realms of air, land and sea, each drawing inspiration from a model from the brand’s storied past.
The brand, founded in 1989, was the brainchild of Barry Cohen who built Luminox based on two simple premises, luminescence and readability. Even the name Luminox was created from the Latin words ‘lumi’ which means light and ‘nox’ which means night. Thus, it makes perfect sense then that the signature element of most, if not all of their watches stems from their Luminox Light Technology which basically uses a completely sealed tube filled with tritium gas. This gas promises self-illumination without needing to recharge for at least 25 years.
As you would imagine, with a product built specifically on legibility in the absence of light, the watch would attract the attention of specialised industries. Over the last three and a half decades, Luminox has partnered with numerous military, police and rescue organisations around the world, outfitting their personnel with these reliable and precise timekeepers. For the most part, Luminox has not yet crumbled to the pressures of the modern watch industry, choosing to still power a majority of their watches with quartz movements rather than mechanically driven ones. This makes total sense if, as a brand, robustness is the unique selling point because quartz movements tend to fare a lot better when subjected to all sorts of extreme situations as compared to their mechanical counterparts.
That is not to say that Luminox has not kept up with current watchmaking tastes. In recent years they have started to add mechanical self-winding movements to their collection and even offer in-trend materials like a carbon composite (Carbonox) for their watch cases. Today, they have the full might of a Swiss watchmaking group behind them as well after being fully acquired by the Mondaine group back in 2016. And in case you were wondering, this is the same Mondaine that makes those watches inspired by the recognisable clocks found in Swiss Railway stations.
Sea
To celebrate its 35th anniversary, Luminox revives its Original 3001 Heritage model which is inspired by the very first 3001 from 30 years ago in 1994. For this piece, the design has been tweaked slightly but the biggest change comes in the form of the Carbonox material for the case. What we also liked about this model is the choice of stainless steel for the unidirectional bezel, the signature element of a dive watch. The core reason for this is to aid the reliability of the bezel rotation but as a side effect, the clicks feel extremely satisfying as it rotates. Other subtle touches include the number 30 on the bezel in red to signify the number of years since its origin story.
Air
Taking to the skies, Luminox looks to the Nighthawk model launched in 2007 to create its new F-117 Nighthawk x Skunk Works 6440 Heritage. Fans of military aviation will undoubtedly recognise the Skunk Works logo subtly hidden on the dial. This logo will blend into the black dial during the day but in the absence of light, it glows and comes alive. This is because the original watch was inspired by the F-117 jet which was built as a stealth fighter. Its iconic facets and black colour are reflected perfectly on the watch and because the watch was inspired by the skies, its bezel has a 12-hour scale so the wearer will be able to keep track of a second timezone without the need for additional mechanical complications. Additionally, where the original watch comes with a rubber strap, the new model comes with a strap in Kevlar, the same used on bullet-proof vests.
Land
On land, Luminox offers the RECON Point Man 8820 Heritage which references a model in the same collection from 2011. What is interesting about this piece is the inclusion of a tachymeter but not the kind most watch enthusiasts are familiar with. Where most tachymeters on watches today can be found on chronographs and can be used to measure the speed of motorsport vehicles, the one on this RECON Point Man offers a scale suited to measure walking speed instead. This is perfect for those going on hikes or maybe a long march and want to measure their pace. Although the dial is a little busier on this model, the watch is the largest of the three at 45mm in diameter giving it enough room to still be legible.
Each of these three models is, thankfully, not a limited-edition model but that is no guarantee that they won’t run out at specific Luminox retail outlets. They will each come with the 35th Anniversary insignia inscribed on the back and even a 35th-anniversary challenge coin included as a token of membership to the Luminox community.
Japanese watchmaking powerhouse Seiko recently took us through the novelties of 2024, leaving us fairly flummoxed as to what watch to feature (there are also embargoes to consider). A standout for us is the Seiko Brand 100th Anniversary King Seiko KS1969, which is the first new iteration to feature something other than the usual round shape. In itself, a watch that is not round from a major producer already counts as big news, even if the appeal might be limited. To backtrack a little, Seiko makes a lot of watches – certainly enough that it knows how to read and respond to the market. That said, the form of the four KS1969 models (SJE109, SJE111, SJE113 and SJE115) is surprising, though not as eye-popping as the return of the Credor Locomotive, but that is a story for another time.
The original King Seiko watch from 1969
Returning to King Seiko then, the KS1969 collection is in what one might call a cushion-shape, or shield-shape; it could even be called tonneau or barrel-shaped. We prefer the shield option, which is what we will use since Seiko does not describe it officially. You will see in the specifications that the diameter is listed at 39.4mm but the real measurement everyone will want is lug-to-lug but that is not given (we estimate it to be in the 45mm range, based on our own casual measurement).
Whatever the case (no pun intended), do note the overwhelming presence of polished surfaces, including the case sides; the bracelet with its 13-link structure goes with alternating brushed and polished surfaces, which you can just about make out here. At 9.9mm thick, the watch can probably manage to fit underneath most sleeves. The water-resistance of 50m signals that this is one of those urban beaters, the kind advertised for the man who needs to seamlessly transition from work to social settings, and perhaps back again.
For dial options, there are three to take note of, and one to seek out if limited editions are your thing. The silver dial option is meant to bring to mind the skyline of Tokyo; the Edo purple is an approximation of a shade of purple popular in the Edo period; and the green dial is of course part of Seiko’s continuing obsession with natural beauty. The fourth dial is in a trendy turquoise shade with a very specific texture that references a dragon. This puts the 700-piece limited edition in the mythic-inspiration category while also making it a late entry into the year of the dragon category (this is Japan-specific but it works with the Chinese zodiac too).
When it comes to Chanel’s watchmaking, they have always tried to differentiate this division from the fashion side of things. In fact, this is a common trend among fashion houses, where they feel the need to distance themselves from the fashion element to establish themselves as serious players in the watchmaking industry. Therefore, you can imagine that it came as quite a surprise when for 2024 Chanel, instead of hiding away their couture heritage decided to use it as inspiration for an entire capsule collection, and exhibit them in the heart of the biggest watchmaking fair, Watches & Wonders Geneva earlier this year. For the fair, Chanel struts down the catwalk with timepieces inspired by elements of fashion design including buttons, pin cushions, couture dummies, thimbles, scissors and much more, in a collection of watches they are naming Couture o’clock.
The Chanel J12 Couture in 33mm and 38mm. Image credit: Photography, Edmund Lee; Styling, Ervin Tan
Chanel Première Ruban Couture Watch. Image credit: Photography, Edmund Lee; Styling, Ervin Tan
Chanel Mademoiselle J12 Couture. Image credit: Photography, Edmund Lee; Styling, Ervin Tan
This is not to say that they have neglected the watchmaking side of things because even though the collection is fun in nature, the mechanisms behind them are still incredibly serious. For example, the hero watch for the year is a J12 timepiece which recreates a scene inspired by Gabrielle Chanel and her couture atelier at rue Cambon. To achieve their intended effect, the Chanel Watchmaking Creation Studio worked with movement makers Kenissi to create the first ever automaton movement, the Calibre 6, to animate the figurine of Mademoiselle Chanel, her scissors and her couture dummy.
In terms of complication, Chanel also made a one-of-a-kind mechanical sculpture that is at once a music box, automaton and clock to evoke the interior of Gabrielle Chanel’s apartment. When activated the couture busts come to life serenaded by the rhythms of “My Woman” by Al Bowlly, a melody that Mademoiselle liked to hum.
Yet another milestone reached this year is the introduction of a movement by the Kenissi manufacture within their ultra-feminine 33mm collection. With the J12 33mm getting its own self-winding movement, the Calibre 12.2, the timepiece becomes so much more than just a fashion accessory. The movement had to be carefully redesigned to fit a smaller case and thankfully all of it is visible through the transparent caseback. The Calibre 12.2 is also equipped with an oscillating weight in the form of a perfect circle. And to show you just how serious Chanel is about their watchmaking, the 33mm J12 is even officially Chronometer certified by the COSC.
In addition to this, Chanel is also bringing a touch of pink to their collection for 2024. The J12 and J12 X-Ray get this accent through the liberal use of baguette-cut pink sapphires strewn across the bezel and on the indices. As for the Boy-Friend Skeleton collection, the skeletonised bridges and plates have been given a pink coating.
Through a cursory glance at Rado’s catalogue, it is easy to mistakenly identify it as a relatively new brand. The watches on display are mostly imbued with ceramics, giving it a glossy demeanour signalling to the customer that these are modern, high-tech watches. While the watches of Rado are modern and made through high-technology processes, you would be surprised at just how much heritage can be revealed as soon as you scratch the surface. Well, technically speaking, most of the watches at Rado are near un-scratchable but you get the meaning. Beneath the glossy, ceramic veneer, lies a brand story that spans more than a hundred years, dating back to 1917.
It is surprising, isn’t it? that the story of Rado began that long ago. Put them beside any other watch brand that has been around for the same amount of time, and it is highly likely that their watches will look worlds apart. And this is because, ever since its founding, the brand has had a fascination with innovation. Their tagline sums it up “If we can imagine it, we can make it, and if we can make it, we will!” With such unrestrained creativity, it is no surprise that most of the watches to come out of Rado defy conventional watch shapes to produce avant-garde silhouettes. However, this is not to say that in moving forward, they have discarded their history entirely. In this story, we take a look at the latest addition to the Captain Cook collection which represents a prime example of how Rado’s past continues to guide their present, or as they put it – how their heritage masters their future.
Spirit of Innovation
Although not expressly stated, we think that Rado’s philosophy regarding constant innovation is deeply rooted within its origin story. Unlike most watch brands, Rado didn’t start as a brand. It was founded as the Schlup & Co. watchmaking factory by the brothers Fritz, Ernst and Werner in 1917. In the beginning, they simply converted a part of their parent’s home in Lengnau, Switzerland into an atelier and through their industrious spirit, the trio began to grow their list of clients. By the end of the Second World War, they grew into one of the largest movement manufactures in the world. During this time, they assembled and finished watches primarily for the American market, and mostly for other brands. It wasn’t until the 1950s that they began manufacturing watches under the name Rado.
Establishing the business and growing it to the size that Rado managed, for sure required an innovative mindset. At the time, industrial processes were not as streamlined as it is today and so most likely every watch manufacture had to continuously evolve to create the most efficient processes. This mindset prevailed and when Rado started creating watches under its own brand name in the 1950s, it brought with them the same spirit of continuous improvement. A case in point is the Golden Horse collection in 1957 which brought with it a waterproof case for the first time, improving the usability of the watch. Then, in 1962 they debuted the very first Captain Cook watch which took water resistance to the next level.
It was also around this time that their search for better, more robust and scratch-resistant materials led them to hard metals like those found in the Diastar case. Their foray into the material sciences then continued to evolve throughout the 1980s and by the 1990s they arrived at what many would call, Rado’s signature element, ceramics.
Quest For Hardness
Rado’s foray and subsequent mastering of Ceramics can perhaps be attributed to the continuation of what they managed to achieve with the ultra-hard Diastar back in 1962. The impetus for this collection was to create a case that could not be scratched and today, ceramic is one of the materials that offers an even greater level of hardness. 1,250 Vickers of hardness to be precise and just as a comparison, stainless steel clocks in at about 180 Vickers.
Additionally, ceramic is also chemically inert and biocompatible, which means, the material is hypoallergenic and completely complementary to the human body. In fact, Zirconium oxide (ceramic) was once used to create the femoral cap in hip implants due to these exact properties. This biocompatibility is also perhaps one of the reasons why people often remark that ceramic feels like nothing else to the touch. It has a sort of silkiness that gives the wearer a feeling of extreme comfort on the wrist. Last but not least, ceramic also doesn’t discolour when exposed to ultraviolet light. Meaning that Rado’s ceramic watches will retain their vibrant colours throughout the watch’s entire lifetime.
With that being said, however, it is these fantastic properties of ceramic as a material that also make it incredibly difficult to work with. Especially in the watchmaking industry when production tolerances can sometimes come down to mere micrometres in deviation. Like all ceramics, zirconium oxide also begins as an ultra-fine powder and with its melting point at 2000°C special processes are needed to shape it into watch cases. You can’t melt the ceramic and pour it into moulds because most ceramics melt at temperatures higher than metal.
Achieving their title of “Master of Materials” took more than just a few years of research & development and investment from Rado. Throughout the years, they created and perfected their ceramic-making techniques. Today the Rado manufacture has machines for injection moulding, specialised formulas that can processes that produce ceramics in a wide array of colours, ovens that can sinter ceramics at extremely high temperatures over many hours, and even an oven designed to discharge gas activated by plasma at over 20,000°C.
Cooling Off
The Captain Cook collection is currently one of Rado’s most celebrated models and for good reason. It is bold and rugged, and you’d be hard-pressed to find a watch enthusiast who can pass up a great dive watch. The modern Captain Cook watches we see today were only relaunched relatively recently in 2017. Before that, the watch was discontinued and laid dormant in Rado’s archives for almost 40 years. This fantastic dive watch was first launched during the same year as the Diastar in 1962 and was created to address the growing number of recreational divers thanks to the improvements and widespread acceptance of scuba diving equipment.
As with most dive watches of the past, the Captain Cook watches also had a uni-directional rotating bezel that would help divers keep track of time during their dives. These bezels played such a pivotal role in diving that they soon became the defining characteristics of a dive watch. Of course, this design feature had to be complemented by an equally precise movement and great legibility for it to become a functional tool for divers. Then, in 1968, the Captain Cook was discontinued, and it was surprising that it took Rado nearly 50 years to resurrect this storied collection.
In 2017, inspired by the past, Captain Cook once again hoisted its sails and was re-released, this time for a different type of diver, the desk diver. Today, nearly half a century later, the role of a mechanical dive watch lies in the fulfilment of emotional appeal as opposed to functionality, as digital dive watches can simply do so much more. However, this is not to say that these dive watches are not functional. It is a testament to the luxury watch industry that even if dive watches like this Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton will probably not be worn while diving to extreme depths, it is fully capable of doing so. It still has the unidirectional bezel, a precise mechanical movement to ensure accurate timekeeping, fantastic legibility and most importantly a water resistance of up to 300m.
The Korean actor and singer, Ji Chang-Wook, is a brand ambassador for Rado
This watch is the perfect embodiment of how Rado uses its heritage to master its future. Because even as the watch takes its design from an intrinsic part of Rado’s history, these new Captain Cook watches have been given every update in Rado’s playbook. The most obvious of which is the high-tech ceramic case that bestows the Captain Cook with interesting colours not usually seen on dive watch cases. As with all Rado’s high-tech ceramic cases, this one also has the same scratch-proof properties which make it perfect considering the dive watch was created for more rugged use. The use of ceramic on a dive watch also provides one unexpected bonus, corrosion resistance. Saltwater is extremely harsh on materials and although stainless steel cases fare in the sea just as well, it doesn’t hurt to have this extra bit of assurance that the watch will stay as lovely as the day it came out of the box even with multiple dive excursions beneath the sea.
The first reference for Rado’s Captain Cook novelties for the year comes in a stunning version with a blue high-tech ceramic case for the first time. This blue high-tech ceramic case of the Captain Cook will also be paired with either a blue bezel for the core collection and a red or yellow bezel for the limited edition of 250 pieces worldwide. The version with the blue bezel will offer a matte blue ceramic case while the other two will come with a polished blue ceramic case. This isn’t your grandfather’s dive watch, that’s for sure. Its modern and conspicuous design language was made to suit those who like to make a statement with what they choose to put on their wrist. For instance, instead of a traditional three-link bracelet, Rado has decided to offer these watches with a more dynamic rubber strap, also in blue. And with fashion tipping towards the more casual end, the watch will most likely transition from the workday to a night out without a problem.
For those looking for a Captain Cook with a little more subtle case, there is also a version of the Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton that will be available in an olive green colour. This reference was inspired by the world’s cities that have become a fair bit greener as compared to before. Thus, the green chosen for the watch is in a little bit of a darker hue and is paired with an extremely elegant PVD rose-gold detailing perfect for those ‘diving’ into an urban playground. Additionally, this version of the watch will also come with the signature ceramic three-link bracelet. And as mentioned before, with comfort being one of the benefits of using ceramic materials, this is now even more apparent through the use of a ceramic bracelet as it drapes effortlessly on the wrist of the wearer.
Compounding the complexity of these Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic models is also the skeletonised movement, the Calibre R808, fully revealed by the transparent dial. This movement is leagues beyond the calibre present in the first Captain Cook from 1962, bringing with it all the advancements in movement technology. The inclusion of a Nivachron™ hairspring within the calibre means that the watch is now resistant to magnetic fields and thanks to updates in the powertrain, the R808 is also capable of a massive 80 hours of power reserve. To ensure that the watch performs with the utmost precision, it has undergone accuracy adjustments in five different positions.
IWC Schaffhausen has announced the debut of Ceralume®, a groundbreaking luminous ceramic technology that marks a first in the watchmaking industry. This innovation allows for the creation of fully luminous ceramic watch cases, an achievement realized through a patent-pending process developed by IWC’s engineering division, XPL.
Ceralume® integrates high-grade Super-LumiNova® pigments into ceramic powders, resulting in a material that emits a bright blueish light for over 24 hours. This advancement cements IWC’s position at the forefront of ceramic watch technology, a field where the company has demonstrated expertise for nearly four decades. Just imagining the possibilities for what IWC can do with a material like this is exciting not only for the brand but also for its collectors around the world.
And just as a teaser to hint at possibly what is to come, quite recently, at the previous Monaco Formula 1 Grand Prix, Sir Lewis Hamilton was spotted with a this concept piece on his wrist as he stylishly made his way around the paddocks.
“Creating the first fully luminous ceramic case is a testament to our pioneering spirit and innovative prowess,” said Dr. Lorenz Brunner, IWC’s Department Manager for Research & Innovation. “The development of Ceralume® involved overcoming significant challenges to ensure maximum homogeneity and adherence to our stringent quality standards.”
This year, Breitling teams up with fashion icon Victoria Beckham to introduce the Chronomat Automatic 36 Victoria Beckham collection, a thrilling new take on one of Breitling’s most versatile timepieces. Limited to just 1,500 pieces, this series encapsulates the best of both worlds, featuring
Beckham’s unmistakable chic signature melded seamlessly with Breitling’s legendary watchmaking prowess. Beckham, now the matriarch of a legitimate empire, shot to fame as a member of the famed, Spice Girls, and subsequently established herself as a major voice in British fashion with her eponymous label. Both commercially and creatively successful, the Victoria Beckham brand represents a sleek, unfussy aesthetic that sits well with Breitling’s approach to watch design.
“It has been wonderful watching Breitling’s craftsmanship and innovation come together with my ideas to create something so elegant and fresh,” Beckham shares, to which Breitling’s CEO Georges Kern agrees. “The Chronomat is already a versatile watch with a classic form. With Victoria Beckham’s signature style, this collection is a modern, radiant expression of that timepiece.”
The collection retains the Chronomat’s well-loved features like the sleek metal rouleaux bracelet and the distinctive rider tabs at the 15-minute mark, while introducing an array of elegant new colourways inspired by Beckham’s Spring/Summer 2024 line. These include sophisticated shades like peppermint, midnight blue, dove grey, and sand, which add a touch of runway glamour to the watch’s robust functionality. With a decent water resistance of 10 bar, this watch is a great candidate for a wellrounded, sturdy and stylish everyday watch. It boasts a nice heft with a case height of 10mm, introducing a muscular element into the watch’s overall feminine appeal.
Each model in the collection boasts refined details that speak to connoisseurs of both fashion and horology—Victoria Beckham’s initials grace the seconds hand, while a discreet VB logo also embellishes the bracelet. Limited edition numbering, with exclusive inscriptions such as “One of 400” for the stainlesssteel models and “One of 100” for the yellow gold variations, has been specially revived by Breitling for this collaboration.
The technical aspects are just as impressive, with the Chronomat Automatic 36 Victoria Beckham powered by Breitling’s Caliber 10. This robust engine ensures a power reserve of approximately 42 hours and, like all Breitling watches, achieves the highly-coveted Contrôle officiel suisse des chronomètres (COSC) certification, confirming its accuracy and reliability. True to the spirit of luxury, each piece comes in a specially designed co-branded box, and the gold versions include an exclusive travel pouch, enhancing the unboxing experience to delightful new levels.
This collaboration is more than just a merging of two brands; it’s a celebration of style, precision, and innovation. The Chronomat Automatic 36 Victoria Beckham is bound to appeal to collectors with a penchant for fashion and style, and a good indication of what can happen when two masters of their crafts unite to create something quite spectacular.
The Asian region has long been an important market for Franck Muller. Just how important? We got an inclination when we made our stop at Watchland earlier this year for WPHH. Every year during the Watches & Wonders Geneva week in April, Franck Muller runs an independent fair in tandem, inviting retailers, customers and the media to Genthod, Switzerland where there is a large enough space on the grounds of their manufacture to host a mini-exhibition of their own. There, we were introduced to the most important novelty of the year, for us in the Asia Pacific region at least, the Long Island Evolution.
This new collection, dubbed Long Island Evolution, will be a regional exclusive for the next two years. The Long Island collection was first debuted in 2000 and today it returns with a case construction reimagined by the cofounder of the brand Vartan Simarkes. This new Long Island adds an inner case to the design giving the watch a new level of complexity.
Long Island Evolution Master Jumper
Three complications have been launched with the debut of the Long Island Evolution. The first and of course, most impressive is the new Long Island Evolution Master Jumper which comes with a movement capable of a triple jumping display. This unique take on time indication offers the wearer a jumping hour and minutes along with a jumping date complication. And because it is housed in a rectangular case, the engineers could fit all three display apertures vertically in a straight line.
What Franck Muller collection would be complete without a tourbillon and for this purpose, they chose the biggest one they have, the Giga Tourbillon. At a diameter of 20mm, this thing dominates the lower half of the Long Island Evolution case and creates drama all on its own as it just casually goes about its business of regulating the time.
Last but certainly not least is the most wallet-friendly version of the Long Island Evolution the 7 Days Power Reserve which is pretty self-explanatory. Because of the shape rectangular shape of these watches, however, all three of these watches are equipped with manually wound movements.
Besides the Long Island Evolution collection, another novelty we were surprised by was the Cintrée Curvex Double Retrograde. If you can move past the slightly busier dial, the complication within is actually quite intriguing. It splits the 24-hour day into 12-hour intervals and uses two retrograde displays to help the wearer distinguish between night and day. From 6 am to 6 pm the top half of the display ticks on and as it reaches the end of its tenure it seemingly passes the baton over to the hand on the lower half which then continues the task of indicating time.
Despite how large the sun appears in our sky, the moon is the closest celestial body to Earth. And for thousands of years, it has remained a great source of intrigue for all civilisation. One year before man was able to set foot on the moon, however, in 1968, Apollo 8 became the first ever human flight to orbit Earth’s only natural satellite. More than 50 years ago these pioneering astronauts were the first human beings to experience the dark side of the moon and it has been well documented that all of them wore Speedmasters.
To celebrate this milestone for humanity, in 2018 Omega launched the first Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8 and this year they have updated the watch with even more mooninspired details. The most noticeable of which is the relief of the moon’s surface that you will find on the dial side of this watch. Fantastically, on the back of the movement, Omega has also created a laser-ablated moon relief on the blackened mainplate and bridges. While the dial side represents the view of the moon as seen from Earth, on the back, through the transparent caseback, one will see the other side of the moon.
Interestingly we only ever see one side of the moon even though the moon itself rotates on its own axis. This is due to a phenomenon called tidal locking where the gravitational pull of the Earth adjusts the moon’s spin so that it is in perfect sync with the rotation of Earth. Therefore, it was only when Apollo 8 orbited the moon, that we managed to catch a glimpse of the “far side of the moon” as it is often called.
The other cool feature, and I think most posted on social media, is the fact that instead of a traditional small seconds hand, Omega has managed to swap it out for a tiny little rocket modelled after NASA’s Saturn V. As the seconds tick away, this little rocket spins around on the subdial almost as if it is weightlessly floating in space. This tiny little miniature also has a patent-pending status because it has been engineered from grade 5 titanium, sculpted via a laser turning process and the colours were achieved through white varnish, ablation and laser blackening. Talk about high tech.
As for the case, it is made from black ceramic along with an anodised aluminium dial which is fitting with this whole aerospace theme. Its lightness, at only 99 grams, is also welcomed because even though the movement is a manualwinding Calibre 3869, it still sits quite hefty on the wrist at 13mm high and 44.25mm in diameter.
How often do you think about a leap year? The seemingly innocuous phenomenon that happens once every four years, adding a single day to February. For most of the world’s population it is probably just “oh, there is a February 29th this year” as they see the date on the screen of a smartphone, smartwatch or Google calendar. But, for us watch enthusiasts, on the other hand, February 29th is the day when we finally get to see the perpetual calendar complication go to work. The day when your mechanically driven timepiece can intuitively understand that in 2024, February doesn’t end on the 28th and therefore can automatically compensate for the extra day, and subsequently the arrival of March.
Put to a non-watch person, it may seem that all the research and development and investment from the brand side, along with the hefty asking price of a perpetual calendar, to see it in action once every 1,460 days is probably not justified. However, this is the reason you buy a perpetual calendar. Not an annual calendar or a complete calendar, which is comparatively much cheaper. You buy a perpetual calendar so you can set it once, and if continuously powered, will keep the date until 2100 whereby many of us reading this would no longer be alive.
In honour of the year that will see the Perpetual Calendar complication put to good use, for our Spring 2024 issue, we take a closer look at this complication from Blancpain. More specifically the Villeret Quantième Perpétuel Ref. 6656, a model that represents the confluence between the trifecta of complexity, functionality and design. This model from the manufacture is not new per se but for 2024 it has, for the first time, been given a deep green dial inspired by the fir forests of the Vallée de Joux and paired with an elegant red gold case, giving us the perfect opportunity to revisit the perpetual calendar complication, a complicated that many collectors would probably have on their grail list.
THE DIFFERENCE A DAY MAKES
To understand what makes a perpetual calendar so special, one must first go back to the basics of the date function. At its most basic level, the date mechanism simply follows the advance of the hour hand. For every 24 hours that pass, the date wheel is advanced one day forward. If all months had 31 days this complication wouldn’t have a problem because mechanics thrive on repetition (I recommend playing the video game Opus Magnum to better understand what I mean). However, as we know, some months have 30 days while others have 31. If this was the only variable in a calendar, then, still a perpetual calendar wouldn’t be too difficult to make as the mechanism only has to compensate for two variable factors. Adding on yet another layer of complexity is the fact that February has 28 days which makes this month out of the 12 yet another anomaly which has to be mechanically adjusted.
For each layer of ‘rule’ added to a calendar the mechanics inside have to increase exponentially in terms of complexity to comply. For example, the traditional date complication is simple to manufacture because it follows one rule, and the human (wearer) will manually compensate for the discrepancies between the different days of the month. This means that the date wheel will just automatically advance to 31 every month and five times a year this must be manually corrected.
The next layer of complexity is a movement that can discern between the months that have 30 and 31 days and automatically advance the date as such. This is the function of an annual calendar complication. To achieve this, engineers devised a special cam that takes into consideration the pattern of days in the month within a 1-year cycle. But, as the name alludes, the Annual calendar still requires one manual adjustment to the date every year which is in February, regardless of whether it is a leap year. Interestingly enough, even though the perpetual calendar was invented by Thomas Mudge around the 1760s it was only in 1996 that the simpler annual calendar was invented.
For a perpetual calendar to work, the mechanism within the movement has to be capable of not just ‘understanding’ the patterns of 30 and 31 days within a year, it also has to ‘remember’ that February has only 28 days. And the most important of which, is it has to keep track that every four years, during a leap year, there is an extra day on February 29th. Explaining the mechanism to achieve this would probably take more pages than we have for this article so for the sake of brevity, the ‘memory’ of a perpetual calendar can be boiled down to a cleverly designed cam that records the length of months in a four-year cycle. For this Ref. 6656 specifically, the cam is based on an 8-year cycle recording two consecutive leap years, which can clearly be observed on the subdial at 12 o’clock. On paper, it may seem simple enough to add one day to February every four years, but in reality, the Perpetual calendar is even more complicated than the fan-favourite tourbillon and is probably closer in number of parts to a minute repeater.
Within this new version of the Villeret Quantième Perpétuel Ref. 6656, beats the calibre 5954 automatic movement with its integrated perpetual calendar complication. It is capable of offering a power reserve of 72 hours when fully wound and offers the same anti-magnetic properties thanks to its silicon hairspring.
Even though the word perpetual suggests that the watch need not ever be adjusted, Blancpain’s perpetual calendar, and for that matter almost all perpetual calendar complications are not perfect because they still must be manually adjusted in 2100. If you take the rule that a leap year happens every year divisible by four, then technically 2100 should be a leap year. But it’s not. This is because the exact time that Earth makes a full rotation around the sun is not exactly 365.25 days but rather 365.2422 days. By this logic, if we continue to apply the leap year rule, after a couple of hundred cycles, our seasons will start to get out of sync. Therefore, when the Gregorian calendar (the one we use today) was invented it stated that century years would have to be divisible by 400 for it to be a leap year. Thus 2100, 2200 and so on, will not be leap years to compensate.
BETTER SAFE THAN SORRY
On the subject of manual corrections, the perpetual calendar complication can be notorious when it comes to its adjustments. In perpetual calendars of the past, it has been said that manipulating and adjusting the watch at certain times could easily damage the watch earning it a round trip home to Switzerland and along with it, a large bill for the repairs. And this forbidden period was between the few hours before midnight and the few hours that followed. During this time, the calendar indications are changing, and any manual correction applied could easily damage the delicate gears.
With the Villeret Quantième Perpétuel Ref. 6656 from Blancpain, this is no longer an issue as the watch designers at the manufacture have managed to eliminate this risk entirely. When the user tries to make the adjustment while changes are happening, a clutch disengages the system to prevent any damages from occurring. But the ability to do this doesn’t come without its cost, and according to Blancpain, they needed 40 per cent more components compared to a traditional complication to achieve this. Of course, all of this is hidden beneath the dial so all the wearer sees, is a clean and elegant design on its top side.
Another testament to the usability of Blancpain’s perpetual calendar movements is the fact that since 2005 they have introduced a patented system of manual adjustment – under-lug correctors. Traditionally these manual adjustment mechanisms have always been built into the sides of the cases. In fact, most other perpetual calendars still use these correctors, which appear as small dimples on the case of the watches. The clever use of under-lug correctors by Blancpain enhances the watch in two ways.
The first of which is purely functional where instead of needing a tool to depress the dimples on the case, the lever on the underside of the lugs can be manipulated using one’s fingernails. Secondly, the discarding of these dimples can now allow the watch case to have an entirely smooth surface, adding heaps to the elegance of the watch. This is especially prominent in the case of the Reference 6656 where the beautifully minimalistic dial is complemented by the blemish-free red gold polished case.
MOON FACE INDICATOR
Okay, before you grab your pitchforks protesting this sub-heading, it is indeed quite a literal reference to the little face present on the moonphase indicator on the dial. The moonphase has always been a significant part of Blancpain’s history; One could even say that it is the perfect representation of Blancpain’s ethos as a watch company.
As the story goes, the legendary Jean-Claude Biver said when he bought Blancpain in 1982: “There has never been a quartz Blancpain, and there never will be.” Back then, even the Swiss watch brands were starting to dabble with quartz technology during the era of the quartz crisis. But Blancpain took an opposite stance, instead, doubling down its efforts to cement the mechanical watch’s place in contemporary times by demonstrating how quartz could never replicate the complexity, craftsmanship and history of traditional watchmaking. One of the first complications they decided to make in its modern era was a moon phase indicator in 1983.
Looking at the moon phase indicator on the new Villeret Quantième Perpétuel Ref. 6656, I feel like the face on this moon is portraying something akin to an all-knowing smirk. Perhaps it knows that Blancpain’s choice to make a statement with this complication basically predicted the role of the mechanical watch for contemporary times, not just for Blancpain, but arguably for the entire luxury watch industry that exists today.
The design of the dial is the same Ref. 6656 that was first launched in 2018 which also served as a replacement for the Ref. 6057 which offered a similar design, day, date, month and leap year indicators in three subdials, but in a smaller 38mm case. The new Ref 6656 on the other hand is housed in a 40mm red gold case complete with the collection’s signature double-stepped case. Last but certainly not least, the new look is also defined by the mesmerising, deep green of the dial. The colour along with its sunburst pattern was inspired by the fir forests of the Vallée de Joux that surround the Grandes Complications workshop where the watch is meticulously crafted by its master watchmakers.
Look no further than Bell & Ross when you train your sight on contemporary design in the arena of watchmaking. The emblematic “square within a circle” is a hallmark comparable to some of the legendary aesthetics within the industry. Its endeavours are laudable because despite its recency, having founded in 1992, Bell & Ross has already firmly established itself as a major player and successfully blazed a trail with a design language wholly its own. The BR 03-94 Blacktrack chronograph is very much an epitome of this daring approach.
Inspired by the avant-garde Blacktrack BT-06 motorcycle, the new chronograph is an extension of this machine, from sharing the iconoclastic looks and down to the enigmatic soul. A collaboration between prolific designer Sacha Lakic and Bell & Ross, the basis to the chronograph is drawn from the aerodynamic lines of stealth aircraft and bolstered by the genius of Lakic. The man has won accolades for his endeavours, inter alia, responsible for the style of Venturi, an exceptional electric sports carmaker. In 2016, spurred on by his success, Lakic instituted Blacktrack, his own motorcycle brand as proof that his love of speed is genuine.
The passion is shared by Bell & Ross. In 2011, Bell & Ross hopped on a partnership with Shaw Harley-Davidson to create the Nascafe Racer Bell & Ross. It gave rise to the unique BR 01 Carbon watch, which could be embedded into the bike’s central console. The favourable reception furthered their partnership in 2014, in the form of the BR 01 chronograph, and its twin, the BR 03 B-Rocket. Both were heavily influenced by Shaw Harley- Davidson’s B-Rocket, as well as an obsession of Bell & Ross’ creative director and co-founder Bruno Belamich, the jet plane.
The BR 03-94 Blacktrack chronograph thoroughly echoes both of these supremely engineered bikes and jets from the design perspective. Water resistant to 100 metres, the chronograph features a 42mm matt black ceramic case. It highlights faceted angles borrowed from stealth fighters, while the black calfskin strap, hemmed with a red edge and lined with high-resistance technical material, is a reference to the Blacktrack motorcycle, which serves as the muse. The quilting on the strap is an ode to the bike’s saddle cover and rider’s protective suit.
Bell & Ross debuts the redesigned subdials for the new chronograph, which have adopted the shape of the dials on motorcycle handlebars. Furthermore, the superposition of the off-centre chronograph seconds hand over the minute hand to create the Blacktrack “B” is a subtle detail not to be overlooked. Despite the monochromatic combination of grey and black, information presented on the chronograph is designed for legibility while balancing the cool factor. Boasting 42 hours of power reserve, the BR-CAL.301 self-winding mechanical movement is exceptionally finished. More importantly, the BR 03-94 Blacktrack chronograph can be inserted in the bike’s centre console, proving that it is not only a wristwatch but an instrument.
As Martin Frei, one-half of the founding members of Urwerk puts it “To make watches, one must first be interested in time.” Indeed, Urwerk is a brand that not only pushes the boundaries of timekeeping from the mechanical sense but also from a philosphical perspective. Previously they made a device with a 1,000-year indicator and today, they offer up a timepiece that pays tribute to one of the pioneering civilisations to keep time, the Sumerians, inhabitants of Ur.
This watch, the Urwerk UR-100V “Time and Culture II” is particularly important to the brand as the ancient city of Ur is where the Ur in Urwerk comes from. Interestingly, when we had a conversation with Frei on one of his visits to Kuala Lumpur, he mentioned that the whole “Time and Culture” collection was actually inspired by a customer from Singapore who requested from Urwerk a timepiece that looks back at the history of timekeeping. From there, the Time and Culture I was born. This first watch reproduced a replica of an actual Mayan calendar that was engraved in stone on the dial. And now, for the second watch in this collection, they travelled to the heart of the Mesopotamian civilisation.
The main engraving on the dial of this watch bears an insignia which the Sumerians used to represent the sun god. Here, depicted in its original 2,000-year-old form, it is still surprisingly contemporary bearing four points that today represent the four cardinal points: North, South, East and West. Throughout the dial, the intricate engravings mirror authentic Sumerian sky charts, highlighting their observation of the night sky and also some say the base foundation of Astronomy as we know it today.
Just as with the first watch, the etchings on this version have also been engraved by laser and the ridges are satin-finished. The entire dial has also been given a blue tint as a reference to lapis lazuli, a stone that is linked to Innana, the goddess of Love, War and Fertility.
Powering the watch is the Calibre UR 12.02 movement but a nice touch for this timepiece is that two additional indications have been added to the dial. When the arrow disappears from the minute counter at the 6 o’clock position it will next show up at the 10 and subsequently 2 o’clock position. These two counters track first the 477.29 kilometres covered every 20 minutes indicating the distance travelled by each inhabitant of Ur as the earth rotates around its axis; next is the 35,742 kilometres that the earth travels as it rotates around the sun within a 20-minute window.
Huawei is a brand we never thought would appear within a periodical such as this, but surprisingly, their latest HUAWEI WATCH ULTIMATE DESIGN ticks quite a few boxes that we think would appeal to watch enthusiasts.
At first glance, the watch seems to be like the run-ofthe- mill smartwatch in black with gold accents. Upon closer inspection however, the watch reveals materials that currently resonate within the luxury watch industry. Starting with the case, it offers a Zirconium-based liquid metal material which is similar to the ceramic material used in high-end watches, and it comes with the same lightweight properties, hardness and resistance to corrosion. The bezel is made from nanocrystal ceramic with segments of 18-carat gold. Even the numerals on the bezel offers craftsmanship unlike any other smartwatch we know off. To keep the lustre of the numerals, it is first given a modern PVD coating and after that painted with an ancient gold lacquering process.
Even the construction of the crown has been taken seriously by Huawei. A diamond-cut engraving process, the same used when making gold jewellery, is adopted to give the crown its 3D trapezoidal pattern. And of course, for the crystal that protects the screen of the smartwatch, you won’t find any Gorilla glass here, instead it is the tried-and-true sapphire crystal most modern luxury watches use.
The watch is paired with an equally impressive three-link bracelet. In keeping with the lightweight nature of the watch, they used titanium for the bracelet with gold-coated centre links. As a testament to Huawei’s conviction to grab a share of the luxury watch market, they have even designed their own clasp that combines more than ten parts to lock the watch in place and even offer quick adjustments to the wearer. And in a bold statement, they claim it is “lighter and thinner than some of the most famed luxury watches by traditional watchmakers in the industry.”
At the heart of the watch you will find a module that comes with everything you would expect out of a modern smartwatch. This includes GPS capabilities via an antenna cleverly hidden within the bezel of the watch, a 1.5-inch Low- Temperature Polycrystalline Oxide (LTPO) AMOLED screen and a full suite of revolutionary sports and health features. And it even has a 14-day power reserve! Well, technically a 14-day battery life with normal use. For more information, you can visit consumer.huawei.com/my
The success of a watch collection is its own conundrum. What we mean by that is, if a watch is selling particularly well, do you mess around with the collection to update it for the future, risking changing something that maybe may not sit well with the fans? Or do you leave it be, risking getting left behind by the industry’s progress? Thankfully, for Bell & Ross, this is not a hard question to answer.
Over the course of the last 15-plus years, their Bell & Ross BR 03 has grown to become one of the staples of the brand, even inspiring the design for newer collections within their watch family. However, whether or not to update such an icon is not even a deliberation for the brand because the fundamental value upon which the BR 03 was built, is functionality. Thus, if there is an opportunity to improve on an existing design, they are definitely going to do it. Hence, we introduce the classic, but newly updated BR 03.
CLASSIC, REDEFINED
When the BR 01 made its debut, it was massive. 46mm wide to be exact and this was predominantly to facilitate its function as a tool watch. For those with a bigger wrist circumference, a 46mm watch sits well on the wrist but for the smaller wrist sizes, it was entirely too large and would sometimes wear quite uncomfortably as well. To fix this, Bell & Ross then launched the much more wearable BR 03 a year after the BR 01 first made its debut. And so, in 2006, the BR 03 and its smaller 42mm case was launched.
42mm was and still remains a sweet spot for sporty watches which is why for more than 15 years, the BR 03 maintained its sizing. It is not too large that it rattles around the wrist when strapped on, and yet it is not too small and still maintains its presence on the wrist. Since its launching in 2006, countless versions of this BR 03 watch have been made. In the early days, most of it revolved around aeronautical themes but then in recent years, the BR 03 has gone from the skies to race on land through their collaboration with Renault, and subsequently the Alpine Formula 1 team, and to the depths of the ocean as the world’s first square dive watch. It has been made with steel, titanium, bronze, carbon and ceramic cases and has seen all manner of complications including the chronograph and GMT functions. Now, as the next step of the BR 03’s evolution, it gets a further update to its design going from 42mm to, drumroll please, 41mm.
On paper, a difference of 1mm in case width may not seem like such a big deal but what the specifications don’t show is the adjustment of the proportions which makes the watch even more visually striking. The case size is shrunk down, by 1mm and the lug width is reduced from 4.5mm to 4mm. Additionally, the bezel has been beefed up slightly as well and when you put all these elements together, the eye can immediately perceive the bolder look of the BR 03.
Another fantastic update to the BR 03 comes from something that can’t even be seen. The BR-Cal.302 movement that has been powering most of the modern BR 03 watches has now been modified so that instead of the classic 42-hour power reserve the watch now gets 12 more hours with a new 54-hour power reserve. What this means in practical terms is that if you take your watch off on a Friday evening for the weekend, on Monday, when you put it back on your wrist for the week, the time will still be accurate.
TALKING SHOP
Following the launch, or rather, relaunch of the collection, we got to sit down with Fabien de Nonancourt, the Managing Director of Bell & Ross to dig a little deeper into the redesigning of this core collection.
DG: With the debut of the Kenissi made movements with the BR X5, was there ever a consideration to put these movements into the BR03?
FN: Just as how in the BR 05 collection you have both the Sellita and the Kenissi made movements, we decided to first go with the latest Sellita movements for the BR 03 because it is a movement that fits the needs of the majority of our users. Maybe in the future we could have a version that comes with the Kenissi movement. Also the Kenissi movement is slightly thicker and with a square watch, the thickness plays a more significant role in terms of aesthetics.
DG: Talk to me about the copper dial version of the BR 03 in steel. It is a very unique look.
FN: Yes, with the copper dial version, we chose the particular finishing to reflect watchmaking traditions. The dial was made with an old technique whereby the numerals are engraved on the dial and after that it was filled with black Super-Luminova. As opposed to the other dials which the numerals are printed on. And also, we have the blued-hands, in this case, done with a PVD coating.
DG: The pricing has increased a little from the previous generation of BR 03 watches. So where did the extra cost come from?
FN: Inflation [laughs]. Unfortunately everything costs a little more to produce these days.
DG: With the shrinking of the BR 03’s case, will we see this happen to the dive watch and the chronograph as well?
FN: Not necessarily because the idea is to provide different sizing for our customers. Like if you notice with most brands, the chronograph is larger than the three hands. Even our BR 05 if you notice that our chronographs are slightly larger as well. So with this BR 03 re-design we are giving more choice to our consumers.
DG: This will effectively replace the old BR 03? when can customers expect to see this in stores?
FN: We have already stopped supplying the 42mm BR 03 to our retailers so it is gradually starting to disappear from the stores. You still can get the 42mm for a few more months but after that stock is gone, it will be 100 percent 41mm BR 03s.
Each of these watches will come with a rubber or calfskin strap depending on the model and is water resistant up to 100m. Prices begin at MYR 15,600 onwards.
With this year being the 70th anniversary of Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms and what that collection means to the watch industry, it is easy to overlook yet another of Blancpain’s novelties for the year, the Ladybird. On the surface, these new and colourful offerings may seem like just another collection that has been given some new colours along with a dazzling array of diamonds to entice female fans. In truth, however, Blancpain’s Ladybird collection is not simply adapted from a man’s watch with the size reduced. Instead, it was created specifically with all the watchmaking savoire faire of this centuries-old brand to cater to the women of today.
If you look back at the brand’s history, women have always been important to Blancpain. In 1933, the manufacture was the first Swiss watchmaking company to have a female CEO and owner after Betty Fiechter purchased the firm. A few years before that, the firm had already created one of the world’s first automatic wristwatches for women under the name Rolls. This paved the way for further innovation in watchmaking for women and in 1956 when the Ladybird first debuted, it was equipped with the smallest round movement ever conceived at the time.
The novelties found within the latest Ladybird collection do not break any records. What is on offer instead is a vibrant range of colour variations including midnight blue, peacock green, forest green, lilac or turquoise set on a backdrop of textured mother-of-pearl on the dial. These coloured Roman numerals are also accompanied by a strap in a matching hue. Additionally, 70 diamonds are set onto the dial to accompany the small seconds and/or moon-phase indicator found there. And on the 34.9mm case, an additional 59 diamonds with a total weight of 2 carats give the watch an extremely elegant exterior.
This is not to say however that the watch is completely devoid of mechanical prowess. The Calibre 1163 movement powering the small seconds version along with the 1163L for the one with the moon phases indicator, both come packed with a relatively long four-day power reserve and a silicon balance spring. Through the transparent caseback, enthusiasts will notice that the movement is fi nished with the Côtes de Genêve decoration. Additionally, the gold oscillating weight of the self-winding mechanism offers circular open-worked patterns that mirror those found on the dial.
Only a brand like Patek Philippe can pull off making a special edition watch in steel and later offer a production model in White Gold and not diminish the value of either. Yes, we are talking about the new family of Ref. 6007G models that were launched during the Watches & Wonder Geneva show at the end of March earlier this year.
Fans of the brand will remember that back in 2020, Patek Philippe offered a 1,000-piece limited edition of the Ref. 6007A, which was created in the same dial design you see on these fantastic pieces but offered a blue dial along with a stainless-steel case, a rare occurrence within the house of Patek Philippe. This previous limited edition was created to commemorate the opening of their new PP6 production building.
The new Ref. 6007G collection, however, are production models and come in a more modern style. Firstly, the dials have been created in an ebony black colour, that offers three different finishing styles. The least obvious is on the outer ring where there is a smooth polished surface, next the hour track offers a fine circular grain. The most obvious texture on the dial, however, is the carbon fibre-like pattern that has been embossed on the centre portion of the dial. This dial pattern was also seen on Patek Philippe’s 2017 contribution to Only Watch where this pattern was guilloché-ed onto the dial of the first and only titanium version of the Ref. 5208 (it was ultimately sold for CHF 6.2 million).
Circling back to the Ref 6007G collection, the black of the dial is contrasted nicely with accents of colour, just below the hour markers, on the minutes track, and on the second’s hand as well. There are three variations, offering blue, yellow or red colour options and each of these comes paired with a black calfskin strap, also with an embossed ‘carbon’ motif and stitching of the corresponding colour. Each of these watches will be housed in a 40mm white gold case.
Unlike the Ref. 6007A, the limited edition offered in 2020, the new variant comes with a new movement, the calibre 26-330 S C which offers a 45-hour power reserve and a Spiromax balance spring. As with all Patek Philippe watches, the movement also bears the Patek Philippe seal.
Although the watch is clad in a white-gold case, this Patek Philippe Ref. 6007G represents one of the sportier watches within the Calatrava family. The carbon embossed pattern offers quite a dynamic aesthetic yet still maintains the watchmaking savoire faire associated with a brand that sits near the pinnacle of the horology industry. Also, how can we resist the chance to add some vibrant colour into what is normally a very, let’s say, monochromatic collection?
As far as dive watches go, the Captain Cook from Rado often gets neglected when enthusiasts gather to discuss references from the past. After all, the watch was only made for about six years in the 1960s before it was discontinued. And it had no significant ties with military forces, as all the most prominent dive watches at the time seemed to have. All it had however is the name of the intrepid explorer James Cook on its dial accompanied by Rado’s famed anchor. But, as we will soon find out, Cook’s adventurous spirit and his embracing of the importance of science would create a ripple effect that extends to the present and bring Rado’s humble dive watch back into the folds of conversation among enthusiasts.
Since the rebirth of the Captain Cook collection in 2017, Rado has updated each successive generation with their latest watchmaking technologies. And as the collection grew, so did the boldness of its ideas. For 2023, the latest Captain Cook High Tech Ceramic Skeleton has emerged out of the sea to showcase not only Rado’s technical side of watchmaking but also reinforce its status as a Master of Materials.
New World Exploration
To understand the Captain Cook at present, we must first dive into its past. Although the watches of Rado look as futuristic as watches come, its history actually dates back to 1917 when brothers Fritz, Ernst and Werner Schlup converted part of their parent’s home into the base of operations for Schlup & Co. After the Second World War, they had become one of the largest producers of watch movements, all the while upholding the ‘Swiss-made’ quality standard. It was around then that they decided it was time to launch their own brand and thus, the name Rado was born, based on the Esperanto word for wheel.
As with all mechanical watches at the time, innovation was synonymous with necessity. And the first Rado-branded watch, the Golden Horse, was created in 1957 based on a water-resistant case construction. In 1962 the Rado Diastar was created with an ultra-resistant hard metal, earning it the title of the world’s first scratchproof watch. It was in this same year that the first Captain Cook debuted.
An advertisement featuring the name Rado circa 1952.
In the 1960s there was a steady uptake of recreational diving thanks to the invention of scuba (self-contained underwater breathing apparatus) gear like the Aqua-Lung by French engineer, Émile Gagnan, and the world-renowned explorer, Jacques Cousteau. To tap into this highly lucrative market, Rado created their own version of a dive watch, offering a timepiece with a greater level of water resistance and a timing bezel that was essential for divers to keep track of their dive times.
Back then, the accuracy of the timekeepers and the reliability of these bezels could mean the difference between life and death as it was used to keep track of decompression timers. Decompression is the act of taking breaks at specific depths so that the body has time to naturally dissipate the nitrogen that has seeped into the tissue from breathing the compressed air within the scuba tanks. If the timing is not adhered to, the nitrogen will expand as the outside pressure decreases creating bubbles in the joints, lungs, and/or spinal column which depending on the severity can be fatal.
Rado christened their dive watch collection after the legendary British explorer James Cook. Captain Cook was most known for his expeditions to the Pacific Oceans where he circumnavigated and mapped New Zealand. Cook was also revered for his navigational prowess relying on astronomy, and accurate marine chronometers to determine his position on the globe. Additionally, he often carried several scientists on his voyages allowing them to make significant observations and discoveries like the cataloguing of over 3,000 plant species during his first voyage in 1768 and on his second voyage, the artist William Hodges produced notable landscape paintings of Tahiti and Easter Islands.
The New Expedition
One of the hallmarks of a great design is that no matter how many years go by, its form and function remain relevant in the present. If you look at the first Rado Captain Cook launched in 1962, everything was designed to be both functional and beautiful at the same time. The hour markers contrast against the background, the hands are large and obvious, and even the Rado insignia freely rotates not just as an aesthetic choice but back then, it was also used as an indicator to tell you when the watch needed to be serviced. Additionally, some other identifying traits of the Rado Captain Cook collection are the bezel that is sloped inwards and the box-style crystal.
After the Captain Cook was discontinued in 1968 it spent a good 40-plus years in hibernation and in 2017, in a move that took most of the watch industry completely by surprise, they relaunched a new Captain Cook that looked almost identical to its predecessor. All of the design cues of the original were still there, updated with modern movements and a better-constructed case of course. But the one thing that really caught the attention of aficionados was the fact that Rado decided to keep the sizing at 37mm.
A small dive watch was nothing special in 1962 but in 2017, when trends were leaning towards oversized chunky watches (especially so in the dive watch category), the creation of a small and svelte option was one that found its niche set of customers. This smaller size was also ahead of the game at the time as only now other brands have started to gravitate towards reducing the size of their watch cases.
Master of Materials
Extremely high temperatures are needed to create the glossy finish on Rado’s ceramic cases.
With Rado’s reputation for manipulating the ultra-hard, scratchproof, corrosion-resistant, lightweight and hypoallergenic ceramic material, it would only make sense for them to incorporate this highly technical material into the Captain Cook collection. Various forms of ceramics have been around for thousands of years, however, unlike its rudimentary forms like vases and bowls, the ceramics used in Rado’s manufactures are lightyears away in terms of technology.
Rado’s High-Tech Ceramic material starts out as ultra-fine zirconium oxide powder with a grain size of approximately 0.001mm, 50 times smaller than the diameter of human hair. After it is mixed with a binding agent, it is injected into a mould at 1,000 bars of pressure. Next, it enters a sintering process where it goes into an incredibly high-temperature oven of 1450°C and over many hours, this ceramic fully hardens. Then, specially designed diamond tools are used to rework the end product to achieve the strict tolerances needed for the case to ensure the watch can be assembled perfectly and to keep the integrity of the water resistance rating. Interestingly the high-tech ceramic, when it was first created, was only available in black. It was only in 1993 that coloured ceramics became available.
Rado has been constantly perfecting and updating their ceramic manipulation technologies for more than 35 years now and they have brought the craft to a point where they are now able to precisely control the outcome of the materials down to the precise shade of colour or even a specific texture on the surface. A case in point is their plasma finishing where the high-tech ceramic is subjected to yet another high-temperature process to give the material a permanent metallic shade without the use of any metallic content.
Past Meets Present
Since the return of the Captain Cook collection in 2017, many variants have been added to its repertoire with each successive year. But this year, their latest reference seems to have taken all the brand’s savoire faire and combined it into a single, all-encompassing watch – the Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton.
Let’s start with the case. From afar, the watch exudes all the design cues that identify it as a Captain Cook, the case shape, the sloping bezel, the arrow hour hand, and the box-style crystal are all there. However, it is only upon closer inspection that all the nuances of this fantastic timepiece become obvious. Firstly, the case is made entirely of plasma high-tech ceramic and its famed properties of extreme surface resistance. This makes it perfect for a dive watch that is usually worn in, shall we say, more adventurous situations. Additionally, the bezel and bracelet are also made from the same robust material.
For this reference, Rado chose a deep anthracite colour to represent the virile, primal forces of the mineral world. Various shades and finishing techniques are added to the case components to give the watch additional character. The matte finish of the monobloc case is contrasted visually with the circular brushed finish on the bezel insert. Even the bracelet offers centre links of a lighter shade and a glossy mirror finish for a more elegant look. Lastly, to give the watch that added pop of visual detail, the bezel is made in a rose-gold colour with matching bezel indicators.
As we dive deeper into this Captain Cook reference, the transparent dial offers an unbridled look into the new and improved skeletonised movement. The Calibre R808 skeleton has been reworked with a smart new geometry and the components are shaded in different tones to give it an architectural façade. The box-shaped sapphire crystal adds to this effect by increasing the visual depth, and to give all of it an air of mystery, the crystal has a lightly smoked tint. The movement itself is highly reliable with a Nivachron hairspring, offering unparalleled anti-magnetic properties. The power reserve for the movement is 80 hours which when fully wound will let the watch sit on a dresser over the weekend and still have more than enough juice to keep going when Monday rolls along.
Global Phenomenon
In tandem with the launch of the new Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton, they have also announced a new brand ambassador – Ji Chang-Wook. The popular South Korean is already a household name in his home country and with the K-wave hitting frenzied levels across the globe, Ji Chang-Wook is a name that clearly, most around the world are also familiar with.
Having got his start in the industry when he was just 20 years old, his fame sky-rocketed when he played a Korean-American speed skater in 2010’s Smile Again, which aired every weekday during prime time for 159 episodes. Since then, his acting career has also diversified with contemporary and historical characters across a broad range of film, television and web series formats. His versatility on screen is also mirrored in his ability to perfectly play an Emperor like in the drama Empress Ki or romantic roles like in Backstreet Rookie and Lovestruck in the City in the same convincing fashion.
“I have always been interested in Swiss watches, especially in unique designs and special materials, and I’m very happy to star in my new role as Brand Ambassador for Rado. The Captain Cook is such a beautiful watch, I look forward to wearing it whenever I can.” Comments Ji Chang-Wook.
In many ways, this Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton draws parallels to the brand’s South Korean ambassador. His diversified talent in multiple roles is similar to how the watch can fit into many daily roles. Designed with dive watch aesthetics, the Captain Cook is naturally rugged and fits casual dressing styles and yet, thanks to its unique grey and gold colour combination along with the polished centre links of the Plasma High-Tech Ceramic bracelet, the watch will look just at home in a suit or dinner jacket.
Even with his fame as an actor, Ji Chang-Wook doesn’t seem to be contented in just one realm of the entertainment industry. Despite being an award-winning actor, he still finds the time to actively dip his toe in the music industry. To date, he has appeared frequently in musicals and music videos and has even recorded a number of OSTs (Original Sound Tracks). For a man that seems like he wants to do it all, the watch is a perfect accompaniment to him, because through Rado’s constant pursuit of research and development when it comes to materials, the watch is created to withstand anything and everything life can throw at it. And the best part is, it does so with the utmost amount of style.
When you think of the iconic Luminox watch, you are probably imagining something with a black case and bezel made from a carbon compound material, tritium gas tubes glowing on the dial and most definitely something quite chunky on the wrist. With the latest iteration of their Pacific Diver Series however, Luminox seems to be taking a new approach with the collection as the new 3120M series comes packed with new dial colours and more importantly a sub 40mm case diameter.
The Pacific Diver series from Luminox distinguishes itself by offering a combination of a stainless steel case with a bezel made of the brand’s proprietary Carbonox material. Since its launch and even with the introduction of a chronograph version last year, the Pacific Diver collection has always remained closer to the 44mm mark. This year, however, perhaps in keeping with the trend that sees a reduction in the size of watches, the new Pacific Diver Ripple 3120M series offers a very wearable case size of a mere 39mm.
These new dive watches will be available in a total of six variations, which includes the choice of a white, black, or blue dial. Expanding the collection’s versatility, Luminox has even added an option featuring a mother-of-pearl dial and this, in combination with the slightly smaller case may convert new female fans.
When the Pacific Diver Chronograph was introduced in 2022, it came with a refreshing variety of colourful rubber straps. Unfortunately the lug width for these watches does not match the smaller 3120M series, so you will not have the same amount of variety but Luminox has created new colours specifically for this collection, which include Vivid Pink, Coastal Blue, Navy Blue, and Fresh White. Additionally, there is also a very stylish stainless steel jubilee-style bracelet to give the watch a more dressed-up look.
The new Pacific Diver Ripple 3120M series of watches are all powered by a Swiss quartz movement, have sapphire crystals and are water-resistant to 200m. And as always, they also feature the Luminox Light Technology, which utilises tritium gas tubes to provide illumination for up to 25 years.
It is no secret that luxury watch brands have been taking keen interest in jewellery for years as part of their learning curve to design horological sculptures. The idea is to look beyond pure timekeeping and precision instruments to develop extraordinary jewels of time; this of course has nothing to do with the jewels in mechanical calibres!
Isabelle Cerboneschi, a renowned historian of fashion, watchmaking and jewellery had this to say when asked about the watch brand that paved the way in terms of applying ornamentation in its collections, “If we’re talking about the last two centuries, I would definitely say Vacheron Constantin. The company, which was founded in 1755, joined forces with the Parisian jeweller Ferdinand Verger (which later changed to the name Verger Frères in 1921) as early as 1879…until 1938. Together, they created jewellery that told time according to the style and taste of that period, including some Art Nouveau and Art Deco marvels. They had nothing to envy the pieces of the great jewellers of Place Vendôme in Paris. The Verger Company had registered numerous patents in the field of jewellery and watchmaking, and Vacheron Constantin benefited from these awe-inspiring inventions. For instance, in the company’s archives, there is a watch with flaps that opens mechanically to reveal the time.”
Vacheron Constantin 1972
Jewellery and watchmaking in Geneva, the home of Vacheron Constantin, became interlinked when the austere Christian reformer John Calvin ran the show in the city back in the 16th century. He banned jewellery, and thus the craftspeople all switched to watchmaking; it is a well-known story in the city, and shaped the destiny of watchmaking in Switzerland, as did the Reformation in general. Swiss watchmakers later developed a reputation for crafting highly ornate pieces, in stark contrast with their English and American counterparts.
When it comes to giving an ornamental look to watches, Abraham-Louis Breguet was also very influential. “Breguet was really at the cutting edge of making watches people carried, particularly European royalty and nobility, and some of those early pieces had amazing ornamentation done on them. Of course, he didn’t start it. In fact, it started long before him in the preceding centuries, but he helped make it more fashionable,” said Eric Wind, a seasoned vintage watch expert.
EVOLUTION OF WATCH SHAPES INSPIRED BY JEWELLERY
Jewellery houses have also played a pioneering role in the origin of wristwatches that never fall short of appealing to the senses, and the one that alwayd comes to mind is Cartier. One only needs to think of the Santos to understand why, and then add Edmond Jaeger’s contribution and it all makes sense. Always regarded as the jeweller of kings and the king of jewellers, Cartier remains a triumphant player in both haute joaillerie and haute horlogerie. We do not need to see the novelties at Watches and Wonders Geneva to tell you that there will be some sublime “jewels of time,” on display.
The principle of embracing liberal yet enchanting designs of its own has always been at the core of Cartier’s ethos even when it comes to creating highend timepieces in varying shapes thanks to its unparalleled expertise in jewellery. We will just name-drop a few for good measure: the Tank (in all its various forms), Tortue, the mind-bending Crash, Cloche, Ballon Bleu, and Baignoire—We could go on at length but Cartier will always deliver some sort of new sort of watch that will surprise (like the recent Pebble, seen below).
A good part of the success of these watch shapes also has to do with their attractive design features such as Roman numerals, blued hands (sword hands or Breguet hands), and rail-road minute tracks on the dials. No other brand has had as much success with shaped watches as Cartier, and it all has to do with both how the watches look as well as how they wear. When gems are in the picture, Cartier takes it to another level.
“I think Cartier has often been the maker of the best “jewellery watches” in that they sometimes have incredible stones incorporated and other times it’s just the watch standing on its own merit,” Wind said. The gem-set version of the Astrotourbillon (literally a favourite of more than one WOW editor) bears this out. Wind continues: “The worlds of jewellery and watches are inextricably connected as watches really evolved out of jewellery centuries ago; pieces of the watch such as the case and dial were mostly made by jewellers for early timepieces. Often the craftsmen and designers for watches started their careers in jewellery. Gérald Genta, probably the most famous watch designer of all time, started life as a jewellery designer before pivoting to watches and his work very much reflects that approach. Gilbert Albert, who famously designed so many interesting Patek Philippe watches, especially the iconic Asymetrie wristwatch series in the 1960s, also was a jewellery designer. At the end of the day, jewellery and watches are both about shapes and craftsmanship or skill.”
Cartier Tank Française
Gilbert’s contribution to the world of jewelled watches can be gauged precisely from the Patek Philippe Ref. 3295, part of the “Tutti Frutti collection”. Most importantly, it won the 1960 Prix de la Ville Genève (which today is the GPHG) jewellery watch award.
“Not surprisingly, the real difference came to light when brands like Piaget, Omega, Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet called on brilliant designers like Gerald Genta or the lesser known but no less brilliant Jean Claudie-Gueit, who worked for big brands like Baume & Mercier, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Rolex, for whom he particularly invented the rainbow setting. But above all, he worked for Piaget, creating emblematic models such as the Polo or other more creative watches, including articulated cuffs or stone dials all under the aegis of Yves Piaget,” Cerboneschi said.
So in terms of shapes especially asymmetrical ones from trapezoidal to elliptical, if one looks at the vintage models of Patek Philippe (the Gondolo collection), Vacheron Constantin (its 1972 asymmetric model, tonneau and cushion-shaped designs), Piaget, Omega and Audemars Piguet, all these watch brands borrowed from the rich history of jewellery aesthetics. All in all, Vacheron Constantin was having its own heyday in designing playful watch designs from 1910 to 1930 like a shutter watch from the 1930s and the ref. 10970 from 1917. As Christian Selmoni, heritage and style director at Vacheron Constantin said, “When it comes to the Maison still releasing limited editions of early shaped watches from its archives, the best example that comes to mind is the American 1921, which is one of the most recognizable designs of the brand with its crown at 1 o’clock and its inclined dial in a cushion-shaped case. Such models from the past demonstrate Vacheron Constantin’s endless creativity and bold attitude already adopted by it at the beginning of the 20th century.”
Shedding further light on how jewellery has influenced the technical aspect of watchmakers or taken it to another level, Wind pointed out, “There have always been new innovations in the world of jewellery, including advancements in the art of stone setting and materials used. So watchmakers will often adopt these approaches in order to advance their own designs.”
Another famous Swiss watchmaker with a history of crafting astonishing watches in bold shapes is Corum with its Golden Bridge collection. Since its introduction in 1980, the brand has been able to occupy a particular place in the hearts of watch lovers. “All the iterations of the Golden Bridge collection created thus far have been extremely successful in garnering a great deal of popularity in the watch collecting world thanks to (watchmaker) Vincent Calabrese’s vision of inventing a timepiece without a dial yet revealing the movement in its entirety,” said Marc Walti, head of product marketing and communications at Corum.
Corum Golden Bridge models
While the baguette movement can fit into any shape, Walti explained, “We will focus mainly on the iconic tonneau shape in the future and play more with “métiers d’art” to better highlight this movement. Having a collection such as this which remains in demand is a boon and the wish of many a watch brand. Timelessness is a highly sought-after value in this sector.”
MEN’S PENCHANT FOR WATCHES IN DIFFERENT COUNTRIES
“Nevertheless, there will always be male customers obsessed with purchasing luxury bling jewellery watches like the famous footballer Cristiano Ronaldo whose passion for ostentatious jewelled timepieces is well-documented. But as time goes by, the demand for traditional watches fitted with extreme complications as well as studded with precious gemstones and diamonds in a certain way will also grow bigger,” Cerboneschi said.
Jacob & Co. The Caviar Tourbillon Tsavorites
It is no wonder that Ronaldo’s preference for classy watches adorned with gemstones is no less prominent. He is often spotted wearing one of Breguet double tourbillon models such as its Classique ‘Grande Complication’ 5349PT model. Since the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia is now his new homeland after he signed the contract with the country’s Al Nassr football club, he made it more special by wearing the most lavish and expensive timepiece “The Caviar Tourbillon Tsavorites” created by Jacob & Co for his arrival here in January this year. The case of this 47mm watch comes adorned with 224 baguette tsavorites on the surface, with 130 baguette tsavorites used on the dial and 18 on the buckle.
The popularity of jewelled watches certainly owes a lot of credit to men and women alike as they both love such luxury pieces. “I think of the Rolex Rainbow Daytona series as the perfect example where men and women both want to own this watch,” Wind said.
The Galápagos Islands and their waters are amongst the most biodiverse regions in the world. The environment is also home to an unusually large number of endemic species, due to the remote location in the Pacific Ocean, some 900 km from continental Ecuador’s west coast. This unique set of qualities has made the Galápagos an especially important focus of ocean conservation efforts.
Indeed, much has been accomplished. The Ecuadorian government, for instance, established the Galápagos Marine Reserve to protect the islands’ waters in 1998, then expanded the reserve’s coverage by approximately 50 per cent in 2021 to its present size of 133,000 km2. Ocean conservation non-profit Mission Blue, founded by the famed marine biologist and Rolex Testimonee Sylvia Earle, also designated the waters of the Galápagos as one of its first “Hope Spots” in 2010.
Sylvia Earle, Rolex Testimonee and founder of Mission Blue, in front of the DeepSea submersible. In 2022, she led an expedition to the Galápagos Islands Hope Spot.
Far from being a one and done process, ocean conservation is an ongoing endeavour. To that end, Earle led a multi-institutional team of scientists on a two-week research expedition across the Galápagos Islands Hope Spot in 2022. Conducted with Rolex’s support, the Mission Blue Galápagos expedition worked to assess the impact of the existing protections that are in place, as well as to identify the challenges and opportunities for future conservation efforts.
IMPACT STUDY
A Galápagos shark patrols the reefs of the Galápagos Islands Hope Spot.
Earle, a Rolex Testimonee since 1982, is a veteran marine biologist and oceanographer with over six decades of experience in these fields. Her first visit to the Galápagos took place in 1966, when she discovered its waters teeming with life and remarked that they were “the sharkiest, fishiest place” she had ever been. Since then, the wider awareness of the volcanic archipelago has grown exponentially. Unfortunately, this has resulted in greater pressures on the delicate ecosystems of the Galápagos, whether from pollution, invasive species, or demands on its resources. Protecting the region is thus more critical than ever before.
A large part of the expedition was devoted to revealing the hidden and forgotten diversity beneath the waves to provide a baseline value of ecosystem health that can be tracked by future surveys. To do so, the expedition employed a range of cutting-edge technologies such as underwater video systems, which allowed the expedition team to collect population data for little-studied animals such as endemic slipper lobsters.
Alex Hearn, Mission Blue co-Champion for the Galápagos Islands Hope Spot and Professor of Marine Biology at Universidad San Francisco de Quito, retrieves and replaces a receiver that has been detecting tagged marine animals passing by.
To complement the above, eDNA (environmental DNA) analysis was also used. The technique involves isolating and sequencing DNA found in the environment being studied, in this case via seawater samples. The crucial advantage here is that data on organisms that elude visual study can still be gathered. Unsurprisingly, eDNA analysis did turn up interesting results. “Most of our sequences are not matching any public database,” shared Diana Pazmiño, a researcher with the Galápagos Science Center. “[This] means that not many things have been sequenced from the Galápagos, or there are things that are new to science that we have not identified yet.”
This finding paralleled an earlier expedition undertaken by Earle and Salome Buglass of the Charles Darwin Foundation, which took place the year before. During that study, a new species of kelp was discovered deep beneath the water’s surface. The two scientists followed up on the discovery on the 2022 expedition by exploring the Galápagos’ depths in the DeepSee submersible, where they uncovered lush hidden forests of kelp. There are now tentative theories that these kelp forests are critical in maintaining the region’s biodiversity. “Kelp forests in other parts of the world have a critical role in supporting biodiversity,” explained Buglass, “and maybe we have found that piece of the puzzle that explains why biodiversity and biomass are so amazingly rich in the Galápagos.”
Sylvia Earle and Salome Buglass descend in the DeepSee submersible in search of deep sea kelp that may be new to science, during the Mission Blue Galápagos expedition in 2022.
Various other broad-based studies were also undertaken during the 2022 expedition, from mapping the foraging grounds of penguin colonies to measuring microplastic levels. The expedition team continued ongoing long-term research into the transoceanic movements of marine animals too by, for example, capturing location tags of sharks that have come from as far away as the Gulf of Mexico. This is particularly important, as it supports the view that international cooperation is vital to ocean conservation work – as well as the need to expand marine protections further. In 2021, Ecuador, Panama, Colombia, and Costa Rica jointly announced the creation of the Eastern Tropical Pacific Marine Corridor, which expanded and linked the four countries’ protected waters to create a fishing-free “swimway” for migratory sharks, turtles, rays and whales. The expedition’s findings have demonstrated the need for more such swimways – globally, no less – to protect marine wildlife, and the need to think on a larger scale beyond national borders.
A MODEL TO FOLLOW
In many ways, the Galápagos Islands Hope Spot is a bellwether for ocean conservancy as a whole. On one level, the attention and support that the islands receive mean that the region has, arguably, the greatest chance of success in this area. As Earle herself has succinctly asked, “If you can’t protect the Galápagos Islands, what part of the planet can you protect?”
On another level, the work that is being done in the region also has the potential to serve as the model for conservancy projects elsewhere to follow. Alex Hearn, an ecologist from the Galápagos Science Center who convened the team of scientists for the expedition, believes that “if we can get it right here [in the Galápagos], that is a blueprint for getting it right across the planet.” From best practices in monitoring the markers of an ecosystem’s health to cross-disciplinary approaches for reversing human impacts on the environment, the Galápagos Islands Hope Spot is serving as a pioneer in the field, with lessons learned from its management percolating to other Hope Spots – and beyond.
THE BIGGER PICTURE
Argo, a state-of-the-art research vessel, is moored off of Wolf Island during the Mission Blue Galápagos expedition in 2022, led by legendary oceanographer Sylvia Earle, Rolex Testimonee and founder of Mission Blue.
Mission Blue will, of course, continue to establish Hope Spots around the world to protect oceanic regions of significant value. Since its founding in 2009 by Earle, the organisation has already created a network of 150 Hope Spots covering nearly 58 million km2 of the oceans. The goal is to extend this protection to 30 per cent of the oceans by 2030.
Rolex’s support for Mission Blue is part of its overall commitment to protecting the planet. This is an extension of its work in championing exploration – both for the sake of discovery and to push the limits of human endeavour. The brand subsumed its efforts in this area under the Perpetual Planet Initiative in 2019, and currently counts Mission Blue and the National Geographic Society as its major partners. As part of its expanding portfolio of partnerships under the initiative, Rolex also supports diverse projects such as Steve Boyes’s the Great Spine of Africa expeditions, which explores the continent’s major river basins, as well as Coral Gardeners’s work to transplant resilient corals to rejuvenate reefs.
Rolex’s commitment to supporting the individuals and organisations using science to understand and overcome our environmental challenges is long-term. In much the same way, this parallels the manufacture’s approach to watchmaking, which sees it taking the long view on things with a focus on constant improvements in every possible area. Given time, the right resources, and a little luck, the challenges that our planet faces may be overcome yet.
The watches of Bell & Ross may be Swiss Made but the heart and soul of the brand are very much entrenched in France. Therefore, it makes perfect sense that for an aviation partnership, in 2021, they chose the Patrouille de France, an elite unit of the French Air and Space Force. This year marks the 70th anniversary of this prestigious aerobatic display team that has built its reputation on the prowess of its pilots.
To celebrate this momentous milestone with Patrouille de France, Bell & Ross launched a limited edition of their BR 03-92 which offers a dial in a mesmerising shade of blue, a colour that mirrors the team’s Alpha Jet. The beautiful dial is combined with subtle elements of colour in the form of the yellow Patrouille de France insignia, a beautiful logo to indicate its 70th anniversary and the colours of the French flag represented on a ring around the dial. This vibrancy is balanced nicely with the white Arabic numerals and hand tips to ensure the utmost legibility. It is, after all, designed with the input of the pilots.
The 42mm width of the square BR 03-92 case is made of the same high-tech ceramic found on previous models and it has also been given a matte black coating to ensure the case maintains a utilitarian look. On the back side, the designers have taken special care to fit in all five aircraft that have flown since the creation of the Patrouille de France in 1953. This includes the Thunderjet which was flown during the team’s debut, the Alphajet which has been in service since 1981, and the Ouragan, Mystère IV and Fouga Magister which have helped forge their legacy. These planes, built not for their destructive capabilities but rather for agility and manoeuvrability in the skies, have very interesting silhouettes adding to the uniqueness of the caseback.
The BR 03-92 Patrouille de France 70th Anniversary is powered by the solid BR-CAL 302 movement and the entire watch is water resistant up to 100 metres. Whether you are a Francophile, aerophile or just looking for a new shade of dial colour, this new launch from Bell & Ross will appeal to at least one, if not all the mentioned demographics. And at only 999 pieces available worldwide, you can be sure that it will quickly ‘fly’ off the shelf.
MOVEMENT BR-CAL.302 automatic CASE 42mm in micro-blasted ceramic STRAP blue calfskin and ultra-resilient black synthetic canvas fabric PRICE MYR 17,600
