Despite how large the sun appears in our sky, the moon is the closest celestial body to Earth. And for thousands of years, it has remained a great source of intrigue for all civilisation. One year before man was able to set foot on the moon, however, in 1968, Apollo 8 became the first ever human flight to orbit Earth’s only natural satellite. More than 50 years ago these pioneering astronauts were the first human beings to experience the dark side of the moon and it has been well documented that all of them wore Speedmasters.
To celebrate this milestone for humanity, in 2018 Omega launched the first Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8 and this year they have updated the watch with even more mooninspired details. The most noticeable of which is the relief of the moon’s surface that you will find on the dial side of this watch. Fantastically, on the back of the movement, Omega has also created a laser-ablated moon relief on the blackened mainplate and bridges. While the dial side represents the view of the moon as seen from Earth, on the back, through the transparent caseback, one will see the other side of the moon.
Interestingly we only ever see one side of the moon even though the moon itself rotates on its own axis. This is due to a phenomenon called tidal locking where the gravitational pull of the Earth adjusts the moon’s spin so that it is in perfect sync with the rotation of Earth. Therefore, it was only when Apollo 8 orbited the moon, that we managed to catch a glimpse of the “far side of the moon” as it is often called.
The other cool feature, and I think most posted on social media, is the fact that instead of a traditional small seconds hand, Omega has managed to swap it out for a tiny little rocket modelled after NASA’s Saturn V. As the seconds tick away, this little rocket spins around on the subdial almost as if it is weightlessly floating in space. This tiny little miniature also has a patent-pending status because it has been engineered from grade 5 titanium, sculpted via a laser turning process and the colours were achieved through white varnish, ablation and laser blackening. Talk about high tech.
As for the case, it is made from black ceramic along with an anodised aluminium dial which is fitting with this whole aerospace theme. Its lightness, at only 99 grams, is also welcomed because even though the movement is a manualwinding Calibre 3869, it still sits quite hefty on the wrist at 13mm high and 44.25mm in diameter.
How often do you think about a leap year? The seemingly innocuous phenomenon that happens once every four years, adding a single day to February. For most of the world’s population it is probably just “oh, there is a February 29th this year” as they see the date on the screen of a smartphone, smartwatch or Google calendar. But, for us watch enthusiasts, on the other hand, February 29th is the day when we finally get to see the perpetual calendar complication go to work. The day when your mechanically driven timepiece can intuitively understand that in 2024, February doesn’t end on the 28th and therefore can automatically compensate for the extra day, and subsequently the arrival of March.
Put to a non-watch person, it may seem that all the research and development and investment from the brand side, along with the hefty asking price of a perpetual calendar, to see it in action once every 1,460 days is probably not justified. However, this is the reason you buy a perpetual calendar. Not an annual calendar or a complete calendar, which is comparatively much cheaper. You buy a perpetual calendar so you can set it once, and if continuously powered, will keep the date until 2100 whereby many of us reading this would no longer be alive.
In honour of the year that will see the Perpetual Calendar complication put to good use, for our Spring 2024 issue, we take a closer look at this complication from Blancpain. More specifically the Villeret Quantième Perpétuel Ref. 6656, a model that represents the confluence between the trifecta of complexity, functionality and design. This model from the manufacture is not new per se but for 2024 it has, for the first time, been given a deep green dial inspired by the fir forests of the Vallée de Joux and paired with an elegant red gold case, giving us the perfect opportunity to revisit the perpetual calendar complication, a complicated that many collectors would probably have on their grail list.
THE DIFFERENCE A DAY MAKES
To understand what makes a perpetual calendar so special, one must first go back to the basics of the date function. At its most basic level, the date mechanism simply follows the advance of the hour hand. For every 24 hours that pass, the date wheel is advanced one day forward. If all months had 31 days this complication wouldn’t have a problem because mechanics thrive on repetition (I recommend playing the video game Opus Magnum to better understand what I mean). However, as we know, some months have 30 days while others have 31. If this was the only variable in a calendar, then, still a perpetual calendar wouldn’t be too difficult to make as the mechanism only has to compensate for two variable factors. Adding on yet another layer of complexity is the fact that February has 28 days which makes this month out of the 12 yet another anomaly which has to be mechanically adjusted.
For each layer of ‘rule’ added to a calendar the mechanics inside have to increase exponentially in terms of complexity to comply. For example, the traditional date complication is simple to manufacture because it follows one rule, and the human (wearer) will manually compensate for the discrepancies between the different days of the month. This means that the date wheel will just automatically advance to 31 every month and five times a year this must be manually corrected.
The next layer of complexity is a movement that can discern between the months that have 30 and 31 days and automatically advance the date as such. This is the function of an annual calendar complication. To achieve this, engineers devised a special cam that takes into consideration the pattern of days in the month within a 1-year cycle. But, as the name alludes, the Annual calendar still requires one manual adjustment to the date every year which is in February, regardless of whether it is a leap year. Interestingly enough, even though the perpetual calendar was invented by Thomas Mudge around the 1760s it was only in 1996 that the simpler annual calendar was invented.
For a perpetual calendar to work, the mechanism within the movement has to be capable of not just ‘understanding’ the patterns of 30 and 31 days within a year, it also has to ‘remember’ that February has only 28 days. And the most important of which, is it has to keep track that every four years, during a leap year, there is an extra day on February 29th. Explaining the mechanism to achieve this would probably take more pages than we have for this article so for the sake of brevity, the ‘memory’ of a perpetual calendar can be boiled down to a cleverly designed cam that records the length of months in a four-year cycle. For this Ref. 6656 specifically, the cam is based on an 8-year cycle recording two consecutive leap years, which can clearly be observed on the subdial at 12 o’clock. On paper, it may seem simple enough to add one day to February every four years, but in reality, the Perpetual calendar is even more complicated than the fan-favourite tourbillon and is probably closer in number of parts to a minute repeater.
Within this new version of the Villeret Quantième Perpétuel Ref. 6656, beats the calibre 5954 automatic movement with its integrated perpetual calendar complication. It is capable of offering a power reserve of 72 hours when fully wound and offers the same anti-magnetic properties thanks to its silicon hairspring.
Even though the word perpetual suggests that the watch need not ever be adjusted, Blancpain’s perpetual calendar, and for that matter almost all perpetual calendar complications are not perfect because they still must be manually adjusted in 2100. If you take the rule that a leap year happens every year divisible by four, then technically 2100 should be a leap year. But it’s not. This is because the exact time that Earth makes a full rotation around the sun is not exactly 365.25 days but rather 365.2422 days. By this logic, if we continue to apply the leap year rule, after a couple of hundred cycles, our seasons will start to get out of sync. Therefore, when the Gregorian calendar (the one we use today) was invented it stated that century years would have to be divisible by 400 for it to be a leap year. Thus 2100, 2200 and so on, will not be leap years to compensate.
BETTER SAFE THAN SORRY
On the subject of manual corrections, the perpetual calendar complication can be notorious when it comes to its adjustments. In perpetual calendars of the past, it has been said that manipulating and adjusting the watch at certain times could easily damage the watch earning it a round trip home to Switzerland and along with it, a large bill for the repairs. And this forbidden period was between the few hours before midnight and the few hours that followed. During this time, the calendar indications are changing, and any manual correction applied could easily damage the delicate gears.
With the Villeret Quantième Perpétuel Ref. 6656 from Blancpain, this is no longer an issue as the watch designers at the manufacture have managed to eliminate this risk entirely. When the user tries to make the adjustment while changes are happening, a clutch disengages the system to prevent any damages from occurring. But the ability to do this doesn’t come without its cost, and according to Blancpain, they needed 40 per cent more components compared to a traditional complication to achieve this. Of course, all of this is hidden beneath the dial so all the wearer sees, is a clean and elegant design on its top side.
Another testament to the usability of Blancpain’s perpetual calendar movements is the fact that since 2005 they have introduced a patented system of manual adjustment – under-lug correctors. Traditionally these manual adjustment mechanisms have always been built into the sides of the cases. In fact, most other perpetual calendars still use these correctors, which appear as small dimples on the case of the watches. The clever use of under-lug correctors by Blancpain enhances the watch in two ways.
The first of which is purely functional where instead of needing a tool to depress the dimples on the case, the lever on the underside of the lugs can be manipulated using one’s fingernails. Secondly, the discarding of these dimples can now allow the watch case to have an entirely smooth surface, adding heaps to the elegance of the watch. This is especially prominent in the case of the Reference 6656 where the beautifully minimalistic dial is complemented by the blemish-free red gold polished case.
MOON FACE INDICATOR
Okay, before you grab your pitchforks protesting this sub-heading, it is indeed quite a literal reference to the little face present on the moonphase indicator on the dial. The moonphase has always been a significant part of Blancpain’s history; One could even say that it is the perfect representation of Blancpain’s ethos as a watch company.
As the story goes, the legendary Jean-Claude Biver said when he bought Blancpain in 1982: “There has never been a quartz Blancpain, and there never will be.” Back then, even the Swiss watch brands were starting to dabble with quartz technology during the era of the quartz crisis. But Blancpain took an opposite stance, instead, doubling down its efforts to cement the mechanical watch’s place in contemporary times by demonstrating how quartz could never replicate the complexity, craftsmanship and history of traditional watchmaking. One of the first complications they decided to make in its modern era was a moon phase indicator in 1983.
Looking at the moon phase indicator on the new Villeret Quantième Perpétuel Ref. 6656, I feel like the face on this moon is portraying something akin to an all-knowing smirk. Perhaps it knows that Blancpain’s choice to make a statement with this complication basically predicted the role of the mechanical watch for contemporary times, not just for Blancpain, but arguably for the entire luxury watch industry that exists today.
The design of the dial is the same Ref. 6656 that was first launched in 2018 which also served as a replacement for the Ref. 6057 which offered a similar design, day, date, month and leap year indicators in three subdials, but in a smaller 38mm case. The new Ref 6656 on the other hand is housed in a 40mm red gold case complete with the collection’s signature double-stepped case. Last but certainly not least, the new look is also defined by the mesmerising, deep green of the dial. The colour along with its sunburst pattern was inspired by the fir forests of the Vallée de Joux that surround the Grandes Complications workshop where the watch is meticulously crafted by its master watchmakers.
Look no further than Bell & Ross when you train your sight on contemporary design in the arena of watchmaking. The emblematic “square within a circle” is a hallmark comparable to some of the legendary aesthetics within the industry. Its endeavours are laudable because despite its recency, having founded in 1992, Bell & Ross has already firmly established itself as a major player and successfully blazed a trail with a design language wholly its own. The BR 03-94 Blacktrack chronograph is very much an epitome of this daring approach.
Inspired by the avant-garde Blacktrack BT-06 motorcycle, the new chronograph is an extension of this machine, from sharing the iconoclastic looks and down to the enigmatic soul. A collaboration between prolific designer Sacha Lakic and Bell & Ross, the basis to the chronograph is drawn from the aerodynamic lines of stealth aircraft and bolstered by the genius of Lakic. The man has won accolades for his endeavours, inter alia, responsible for the style of Venturi, an exceptional electric sports carmaker. In 2016, spurred on by his success, Lakic instituted Blacktrack, his own motorcycle brand as proof that his love of speed is genuine.
The passion is shared by Bell & Ross. In 2011, Bell & Ross hopped on a partnership with Shaw Harley-Davidson to create the Nascafe Racer Bell & Ross. It gave rise to the unique BR 01 Carbon watch, which could be embedded into the bike’s central console. The favourable reception furthered their partnership in 2014, in the form of the BR 01 chronograph, and its twin, the BR 03 B-Rocket. Both were heavily influenced by Shaw Harley- Davidson’s B-Rocket, as well as an obsession of Bell & Ross’ creative director and co-founder Bruno Belamich, the jet plane.
The BR 03-94 Blacktrack chronograph thoroughly echoes both of these supremely engineered bikes and jets from the design perspective. Water resistant to 100 metres, the chronograph features a 42mm matt black ceramic case. It highlights faceted angles borrowed from stealth fighters, while the black calfskin strap, hemmed with a red edge and lined with high-resistance technical material, is a reference to the Blacktrack motorcycle, which serves as the muse. The quilting on the strap is an ode to the bike’s saddle cover and rider’s protective suit.
Bell & Ross debuts the redesigned subdials for the new chronograph, which have adopted the shape of the dials on motorcycle handlebars. Furthermore, the superposition of the off-centre chronograph seconds hand over the minute hand to create the Blacktrack “B” is a subtle detail not to be overlooked. Despite the monochromatic combination of grey and black, information presented on the chronograph is designed for legibility while balancing the cool factor. Boasting 42 hours of power reserve, the BR-CAL.301 self-winding mechanical movement is exceptionally finished. More importantly, the BR 03-94 Blacktrack chronograph can be inserted in the bike’s centre console, proving that it is not only a wristwatch but an instrument.
As Martin Frei, one-half of the founding members of Urwerk puts it “To make watches, one must first be interested in time.” Indeed, Urwerk is a brand that not only pushes the boundaries of timekeeping from the mechanical sense but also from a philosphical perspective. Previously they made a device with a 1,000-year indicator and today, they offer up a timepiece that pays tribute to one of the pioneering civilisations to keep time, the Sumerians, inhabitants of Ur.
This watch, the Urwerk UR-100V “Time and Culture II” is particularly important to the brand as the ancient city of Ur is where the Ur in Urwerk comes from. Interestingly, when we had a conversation with Frei on one of his visits to Kuala Lumpur, he mentioned that the whole “Time and Culture” collection was actually inspired by a customer from Singapore who requested from Urwerk a timepiece that looks back at the history of timekeeping. From there, the Time and Culture I was born. This first watch reproduced a replica of an actual Mayan calendar that was engraved in stone on the dial. And now, for the second watch in this collection, they travelled to the heart of the Mesopotamian civilisation.
The main engraving on the dial of this watch bears an insignia which the Sumerians used to represent the sun god. Here, depicted in its original 2,000-year-old form, it is still surprisingly contemporary bearing four points that today represent the four cardinal points: North, South, East and West. Throughout the dial, the intricate engravings mirror authentic Sumerian sky charts, highlighting their observation of the night sky and also some say the base foundation of Astronomy as we know it today.
Just as with the first watch, the etchings on this version have also been engraved by laser and the ridges are satin-finished. The entire dial has also been given a blue tint as a reference to lapis lazuli, a stone that is linked to Innana, the goddess of Love, War and Fertility.
Powering the watch is the Calibre UR 12.02 movement but a nice touch for this timepiece is that two additional indications have been added to the dial. When the arrow disappears from the minute counter at the 6 o’clock position it will next show up at the 10 and subsequently 2 o’clock position. These two counters track first the 477.29 kilometres covered every 20 minutes indicating the distance travelled by each inhabitant of Ur as the earth rotates around its axis; next is the 35,742 kilometres that the earth travels as it rotates around the sun within a 20-minute window.
Huawei is a brand we never thought would appear within a periodical such as this, but surprisingly, their latest HUAWEI WATCH ULTIMATE DESIGN ticks quite a few boxes that we think would appeal to watch enthusiasts.
At first glance, the watch seems to be like the run-ofthe- mill smartwatch in black with gold accents. Upon closer inspection however, the watch reveals materials that currently resonate within the luxury watch industry. Starting with the case, it offers a Zirconium-based liquid metal material which is similar to the ceramic material used in high-end watches, and it comes with the same lightweight properties, hardness and resistance to corrosion. The bezel is made from nanocrystal ceramic with segments of 18-carat gold. Even the numerals on the bezel offers craftsmanship unlike any other smartwatch we know off. To keep the lustre of the numerals, it is first given a modern PVD coating and after that painted with an ancient gold lacquering process.
Even the construction of the crown has been taken seriously by Huawei. A diamond-cut engraving process, the same used when making gold jewellery, is adopted to give the crown its 3D trapezoidal pattern. And of course, for the crystal that protects the screen of the smartwatch, you won’t find any Gorilla glass here, instead it is the tried-and-true sapphire crystal most modern luxury watches use.
The watch is paired with an equally impressive three-link bracelet. In keeping with the lightweight nature of the watch, they used titanium for the bracelet with gold-coated centre links. As a testament to Huawei’s conviction to grab a share of the luxury watch market, they have even designed their own clasp that combines more than ten parts to lock the watch in place and even offer quick adjustments to the wearer. And in a bold statement, they claim it is “lighter and thinner than some of the most famed luxury watches by traditional watchmakers in the industry.”
At the heart of the watch you will find a module that comes with everything you would expect out of a modern smartwatch. This includes GPS capabilities via an antenna cleverly hidden within the bezel of the watch, a 1.5-inch Low- Temperature Polycrystalline Oxide (LTPO) AMOLED screen and a full suite of revolutionary sports and health features. And it even has a 14-day power reserve! Well, technically a 14-day battery life with normal use. For more information, you can visit consumer.huawei.com/my
The success of a watch collection is its own conundrum. What we mean by that is, if a watch is selling particularly well, do you mess around with the collection to update it for the future, risking changing something that maybe may not sit well with the fans? Or do you leave it be, risking getting left behind by the industry’s progress? Thankfully, for Bell & Ross, this is not a hard question to answer.
Over the course of the last 15-plus years, their Bell & Ross BR 03 has grown to become one of the staples of the brand, even inspiring the design for newer collections within their watch family. However, whether or not to update such an icon is not even a deliberation for the brand because the fundamental value upon which the BR 03 was built, is functionality. Thus, if there is an opportunity to improve on an existing design, they are definitely going to do it. Hence, we introduce the classic, but newly updated BR 03.
CLASSIC, REDEFINED
When the BR 01 made its debut, it was massive. 46mm wide to be exact and this was predominantly to facilitate its function as a tool watch. For those with a bigger wrist circumference, a 46mm watch sits well on the wrist but for the smaller wrist sizes, it was entirely too large and would sometimes wear quite uncomfortably as well. To fix this, Bell & Ross then launched the much more wearable BR 03 a year after the BR 01 first made its debut. And so, in 2006, the BR 03 and its smaller 42mm case was launched.
42mm was and still remains a sweet spot for sporty watches which is why for more than 15 years, the BR 03 maintained its sizing. It is not too large that it rattles around the wrist when strapped on, and yet it is not too small and still maintains its presence on the wrist. Since its launching in 2006, countless versions of this BR 03 watch have been made. In the early days, most of it revolved around aeronautical themes but then in recent years, the BR 03 has gone from the skies to race on land through their collaboration with Renault, and subsequently the Alpine Formula 1 team, and to the depths of the ocean as the world’s first square dive watch. It has been made with steel, titanium, bronze, carbon and ceramic cases and has seen all manner of complications including the chronograph and GMT functions. Now, as the next step of the BR 03’s evolution, it gets a further update to its design going from 42mm to, drumroll please, 41mm.
On paper, a difference of 1mm in case width may not seem like such a big deal but what the specifications don’t show is the adjustment of the proportions which makes the watch even more visually striking. The case size is shrunk down, by 1mm and the lug width is reduced from 4.5mm to 4mm. Additionally, the bezel has been beefed up slightly as well and when you put all these elements together, the eye can immediately perceive the bolder look of the BR 03.
Another fantastic update to the BR 03 comes from something that can’t even be seen. The BR-Cal.302 movement that has been powering most of the modern BR 03 watches has now been modified so that instead of the classic 42-hour power reserve the watch now gets 12 more hours with a new 54-hour power reserve. What this means in practical terms is that if you take your watch off on a Friday evening for the weekend, on Monday, when you put it back on your wrist for the week, the time will still be accurate.
TALKING SHOP
Following the launch, or rather, relaunch of the collection, we got to sit down with Fabien de Nonancourt, the Managing Director of Bell & Ross to dig a little deeper into the redesigning of this core collection.
DG: With the debut of the Kenissi made movements with the BR X5, was there ever a consideration to put these movements into the BR03?
FN: Just as how in the BR 05 collection you have both the Sellita and the Kenissi made movements, we decided to first go with the latest Sellita movements for the BR 03 because it is a movement that fits the needs of the majority of our users. Maybe in the future we could have a version that comes with the Kenissi movement. Also the Kenissi movement is slightly thicker and with a square watch, the thickness plays a more significant role in terms of aesthetics.
DG: Talk to me about the copper dial version of the BR 03 in steel. It is a very unique look.
FN: Yes, with the copper dial version, we chose the particular finishing to reflect watchmaking traditions. The dial was made with an old technique whereby the numerals are engraved on the dial and after that it was filled with black Super-Luminova. As opposed to the other dials which the numerals are printed on. And also, we have the blued-hands, in this case, done with a PVD coating.
DG: The pricing has increased a little from the previous generation of BR 03 watches. So where did the extra cost come from?
FN: Inflation [laughs]. Unfortunately everything costs a little more to produce these days.
DG: With the shrinking of the BR 03’s case, will we see this happen to the dive watch and the chronograph as well?
FN: Not necessarily because the idea is to provide different sizing for our customers. Like if you notice with most brands, the chronograph is larger than the three hands. Even our BR 05 if you notice that our chronographs are slightly larger as well. So with this BR 03 re-design we are giving more choice to our consumers.
DG: This will effectively replace the old BR 03? when can customers expect to see this in stores?
FN: We have already stopped supplying the 42mm BR 03 to our retailers so it is gradually starting to disappear from the stores. You still can get the 42mm for a few more months but after that stock is gone, it will be 100 percent 41mm BR 03s.
Each of these watches will come with a rubber or calfskin strap depending on the model and is water resistant up to 100m. Prices begin at MYR 15,600 onwards.
With this year being the 70th anniversary of Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms and what that collection means to the watch industry, it is easy to overlook yet another of Blancpain’s novelties for the year, the Ladybird. On the surface, these new and colourful offerings may seem like just another collection that has been given some new colours along with a dazzling array of diamonds to entice female fans. In truth, however, Blancpain’s Ladybird collection is not simply adapted from a man’s watch with the size reduced. Instead, it was created specifically with all the watchmaking savoire faire of this centuries-old brand to cater to the women of today.
If you look back at the brand’s history, women have always been important to Blancpain. In 1933, the manufacture was the first Swiss watchmaking company to have a female CEO and owner after Betty Fiechter purchased the firm. A few years before that, the firm had already created one of the world’s first automatic wristwatches for women under the name Rolls. This paved the way for further innovation in watchmaking for women and in 1956 when the Ladybird first debuted, it was equipped with the smallest round movement ever conceived at the time.
The novelties found within the latest Ladybird collection do not break any records. What is on offer instead is a vibrant range of colour variations including midnight blue, peacock green, forest green, lilac or turquoise set on a backdrop of textured mother-of-pearl on the dial. These coloured Roman numerals are also accompanied by a strap in a matching hue. Additionally, 70 diamonds are set onto the dial to accompany the small seconds and/or moon-phase indicator found there. And on the 34.9mm case, an additional 59 diamonds with a total weight of 2 carats give the watch an extremely elegant exterior.
This is not to say however that the watch is completely devoid of mechanical prowess. The Calibre 1163 movement powering the small seconds version along with the 1163L for the one with the moon phases indicator, both come packed with a relatively long four-day power reserve and a silicon balance spring. Through the transparent caseback, enthusiasts will notice that the movement is fi nished with the Côtes de Genêve decoration. Additionally, the gold oscillating weight of the self-winding mechanism offers circular open-worked patterns that mirror those found on the dial.
Only a brand like Patek Philippe can pull off making a special edition watch in steel and later offer a production model in White Gold and not diminish the value of either. Yes, we are talking about the new family of Ref. 6007G models that were launched during the Watches & Wonder Geneva show at the end of March earlier this year.
Fans of the brand will remember that back in 2020, Patek Philippe offered a 1,000-piece limited edition of the Ref. 6007A, which was created in the same dial design you see on these fantastic pieces but offered a blue dial along with a stainless-steel case, a rare occurrence within the house of Patek Philippe. This previous limited edition was created to commemorate the opening of their new PP6 production building.
The new Ref. 6007G collection, however, are production models and come in a more modern style. Firstly, the dials have been created in an ebony black colour, that offers three different finishing styles. The least obvious is on the outer ring where there is a smooth polished surface, next the hour track offers a fine circular grain. The most obvious texture on the dial, however, is the carbon fibre-like pattern that has been embossed on the centre portion of the dial. This dial pattern was also seen on Patek Philippe’s 2017 contribution to Only Watch where this pattern was guilloché-ed onto the dial of the first and only titanium version of the Ref. 5208 (it was ultimately sold for CHF 6.2 million).
Circling back to the Ref 6007G collection, the black of the dial is contrasted nicely with accents of colour, just below the hour markers, on the minutes track, and on the second’s hand as well. There are three variations, offering blue, yellow or red colour options and each of these comes paired with a black calfskin strap, also with an embossed ‘carbon’ motif and stitching of the corresponding colour. Each of these watches will be housed in a 40mm white gold case.
Unlike the Ref. 6007A, the limited edition offered in 2020, the new variant comes with a new movement, the calibre 26-330 S C which offers a 45-hour power reserve and a Spiromax balance spring. As with all Patek Philippe watches, the movement also bears the Patek Philippe seal.
Although the watch is clad in a white-gold case, this Patek Philippe Ref. 6007G represents one of the sportier watches within the Calatrava family. The carbon embossed pattern offers quite a dynamic aesthetic yet still maintains the watchmaking savoire faire associated with a brand that sits near the pinnacle of the horology industry. Also, how can we resist the chance to add some vibrant colour into what is normally a very, let’s say, monochromatic collection?
As far as dive watches go, the Captain Cook from Rado often gets neglected when enthusiasts gather to discuss references from the past. After all, the watch was only made for about six years in the 1960s before it was discontinued. And it had no significant ties with military forces, as all the most prominent dive watches at the time seemed to have. All it had however is the name of the intrepid explorer James Cook on its dial accompanied by Rado’s famed anchor. But, as we will soon find out, Cook’s adventurous spirit and his embracing of the importance of science would create a ripple effect that extends to the present and bring Rado’s humble dive watch back into the folds of conversation among enthusiasts.
Since the rebirth of the Captain Cook collection in 2017, Rado has updated each successive generation with their latest watchmaking technologies. And as the collection grew, so did the boldness of its ideas. For 2023, the latest Captain Cook High Tech Ceramic Skeleton has emerged out of the sea to showcase not only Rado’s technical side of watchmaking but also reinforce its status as a Master of Materials.
New World Exploration
To understand the Captain Cook at present, we must first dive into its past. Although the watches of Rado look as futuristic as watches come, its history actually dates back to 1917 when brothers Fritz, Ernst and Werner Schlup converted part of their parent’s home into the base of operations for Schlup & Co. After the Second World War, they had become one of the largest producers of watch movements, all the while upholding the ‘Swiss-made’ quality standard. It was around then that they decided it was time to launch their own brand and thus, the name Rado was born, based on the Esperanto word for wheel.
As with all mechanical watches at the time, innovation was synonymous with necessity. And the first Rado-branded watch, the Golden Horse, was created in 1957 based on a water-resistant case construction. In 1962 the Rado Diastar was created with an ultra-resistant hard metal, earning it the title of the world’s first scratchproof watch. It was in this same year that the first Captain Cook debuted.
An advertisement featuring the name Rado circa 1952.
In the 1960s there was a steady uptake of recreational diving thanks to the invention of scuba (self-contained underwater breathing apparatus) gear like the Aqua-Lung by French engineer, Émile Gagnan, and the world-renowned explorer, Jacques Cousteau. To tap into this highly lucrative market, Rado created their own version of a dive watch, offering a timepiece with a greater level of water resistance and a timing bezel that was essential for divers to keep track of their dive times.
Back then, the accuracy of the timekeepers and the reliability of these bezels could mean the difference between life and death as it was used to keep track of decompression timers. Decompression is the act of taking breaks at specific depths so that the body has time to naturally dissipate the nitrogen that has seeped into the tissue from breathing the compressed air within the scuba tanks. If the timing is not adhered to, the nitrogen will expand as the outside pressure decreases creating bubbles in the joints, lungs, and/or spinal column which depending on the severity can be fatal.
Rado christened their dive watch collection after the legendary British explorer James Cook. Captain Cook was most known for his expeditions to the Pacific Oceans where he circumnavigated and mapped New Zealand. Cook was also revered for his navigational prowess relying on astronomy, and accurate marine chronometers to determine his position on the globe. Additionally, he often carried several scientists on his voyages allowing them to make significant observations and discoveries like the cataloguing of over 3,000 plant species during his first voyage in 1768 and on his second voyage, the artist William Hodges produced notable landscape paintings of Tahiti and Easter Islands.
The New Expedition
One of the hallmarks of a great design is that no matter how many years go by, its form and function remain relevant in the present. If you look at the first Rado Captain Cook launched in 1962, everything was designed to be both functional and beautiful at the same time. The hour markers contrast against the background, the hands are large and obvious, and even the Rado insignia freely rotates not just as an aesthetic choice but back then, it was also used as an indicator to tell you when the watch needed to be serviced. Additionally, some other identifying traits of the Rado Captain Cook collection are the bezel that is sloped inwards and the box-style crystal.
After the Captain Cook was discontinued in 1968 it spent a good 40-plus years in hibernation and in 2017, in a move that took most of the watch industry completely by surprise, they relaunched a new Captain Cook that looked almost identical to its predecessor. All of the design cues of the original were still there, updated with modern movements and a better-constructed case of course. But the one thing that really caught the attention of aficionados was the fact that Rado decided to keep the sizing at 37mm.
A small dive watch was nothing special in 1962 but in 2017, when trends were leaning towards oversized chunky watches (especially so in the dive watch category), the creation of a small and svelte option was one that found its niche set of customers. This smaller size was also ahead of the game at the time as only now other brands have started to gravitate towards reducing the size of their watch cases.
Master of Materials
Extremely high temperatures are needed to create the glossy finish on Rado’s ceramic cases.
With Rado’s reputation for manipulating the ultra-hard, scratchproof, corrosion-resistant, lightweight and hypoallergenic ceramic material, it would only make sense for them to incorporate this highly technical material into the Captain Cook collection. Various forms of ceramics have been around for thousands of years, however, unlike its rudimentary forms like vases and bowls, the ceramics used in Rado’s manufactures are lightyears away in terms of technology.
Rado’s High-Tech Ceramic material starts out as ultra-fine zirconium oxide powder with a grain size of approximately 0.001mm, 50 times smaller than the diameter of human hair. After it is mixed with a binding agent, it is injected into a mould at 1,000 bars of pressure. Next, it enters a sintering process where it goes into an incredibly high-temperature oven of 1450°C and over many hours, this ceramic fully hardens. Then, specially designed diamond tools are used to rework the end product to achieve the strict tolerances needed for the case to ensure the watch can be assembled perfectly and to keep the integrity of the water resistance rating. Interestingly the high-tech ceramic, when it was first created, was only available in black. It was only in 1993 that coloured ceramics became available.
Rado has been constantly perfecting and updating their ceramic manipulation technologies for more than 35 years now and they have brought the craft to a point where they are now able to precisely control the outcome of the materials down to the precise shade of colour or even a specific texture on the surface. A case in point is their plasma finishing where the high-tech ceramic is subjected to yet another high-temperature process to give the material a permanent metallic shade without the use of any metallic content.
Past Meets Present
Since the return of the Captain Cook collection in 2017, many variants have been added to its repertoire with each successive year. But this year, their latest reference seems to have taken all the brand’s savoire faire and combined it into a single, all-encompassing watch – the Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton.
Let’s start with the case. From afar, the watch exudes all the design cues that identify it as a Captain Cook, the case shape, the sloping bezel, the arrow hour hand, and the box-style crystal are all there. However, it is only upon closer inspection that all the nuances of this fantastic timepiece become obvious. Firstly, the case is made entirely of plasma high-tech ceramic and its famed properties of extreme surface resistance. This makes it perfect for a dive watch that is usually worn in, shall we say, more adventurous situations. Additionally, the bezel and bracelet are also made from the same robust material.
For this reference, Rado chose a deep anthracite colour to represent the virile, primal forces of the mineral world. Various shades and finishing techniques are added to the case components to give the watch additional character. The matte finish of the monobloc case is contrasted visually with the circular brushed finish on the bezel insert. Even the bracelet offers centre links of a lighter shade and a glossy mirror finish for a more elegant look. Lastly, to give the watch that added pop of visual detail, the bezel is made in a rose-gold colour with matching bezel indicators.
As we dive deeper into this Captain Cook reference, the transparent dial offers an unbridled look into the new and improved skeletonised movement. The Calibre R808 skeleton has been reworked with a smart new geometry and the components are shaded in different tones to give it an architectural façade. The box-shaped sapphire crystal adds to this effect by increasing the visual depth, and to give all of it an air of mystery, the crystal has a lightly smoked tint. The movement itself is highly reliable with a Nivachron hairspring, offering unparalleled anti-magnetic properties. The power reserve for the movement is 80 hours which when fully wound will let the watch sit on a dresser over the weekend and still have more than enough juice to keep going when Monday rolls along.
Global Phenomenon
In tandem with the launch of the new Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton, they have also announced a new brand ambassador – Ji Chang-Wook. The popular South Korean is already a household name in his home country and with the K-wave hitting frenzied levels across the globe, Ji Chang-Wook is a name that clearly, most around the world are also familiar with.
Having got his start in the industry when he was just 20 years old, his fame sky-rocketed when he played a Korean-American speed skater in 2010’s Smile Again, which aired every weekday during prime time for 159 episodes. Since then, his acting career has also diversified with contemporary and historical characters across a broad range of film, television and web series formats. His versatility on screen is also mirrored in his ability to perfectly play an Emperor like in the drama Empress Ki or romantic roles like in Backstreet Rookie and Lovestruck in the City in the same convincing fashion.
“I have always been interested in Swiss watches, especially in unique designs and special materials, and I’m very happy to star in my new role as Brand Ambassador for Rado. The Captain Cook is such a beautiful watch, I look forward to wearing it whenever I can.” Comments Ji Chang-Wook.
In many ways, this Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton draws parallels to the brand’s South Korean ambassador. His diversified talent in multiple roles is similar to how the watch can fit into many daily roles. Designed with dive watch aesthetics, the Captain Cook is naturally rugged and fits casual dressing styles and yet, thanks to its unique grey and gold colour combination along with the polished centre links of the Plasma High-Tech Ceramic bracelet, the watch will look just at home in a suit or dinner jacket.
Even with his fame as an actor, Ji Chang-Wook doesn’t seem to be contented in just one realm of the entertainment industry. Despite being an award-winning actor, he still finds the time to actively dip his toe in the music industry. To date, he has appeared frequently in musicals and music videos and has even recorded a number of OSTs (Original Sound Tracks). For a man that seems like he wants to do it all, the watch is a perfect accompaniment to him, because through Rado’s constant pursuit of research and development when it comes to materials, the watch is created to withstand anything and everything life can throw at it. And the best part is, it does so with the utmost amount of style.
When you think of the iconic Luminox watch, you are probably imagining something with a black case and bezel made from a carbon compound material, tritium gas tubes glowing on the dial and most definitely something quite chunky on the wrist. With the latest iteration of their Pacific Diver Series however, Luminox seems to be taking a new approach with the collection as the new 3120M series comes packed with new dial colours and more importantly a sub 40mm case diameter.
The Pacific Diver series from Luminox distinguishes itself by offering a combination of a stainless steel case with a bezel made of the brand’s proprietary Carbonox material. Since its launch and even with the introduction of a chronograph version last year, the Pacific Diver collection has always remained closer to the 44mm mark. This year, however, perhaps in keeping with the trend that sees a reduction in the size of watches, the new Pacific Diver Ripple 3120M series offers a very wearable case size of a mere 39mm.
These new dive watches will be available in a total of six variations, which includes the choice of a white, black, or blue dial. Expanding the collection’s versatility, Luminox has even added an option featuring a mother-of-pearl dial and this, in combination with the slightly smaller case may convert new female fans.
When the Pacific Diver Chronograph was introduced in 2022, it came with a refreshing variety of colourful rubber straps. Unfortunately the lug width for these watches does not match the smaller 3120M series, so you will not have the same amount of variety but Luminox has created new colours specifically for this collection, which include Vivid Pink, Coastal Blue, Navy Blue, and Fresh White. Additionally, there is also a very stylish stainless steel jubilee-style bracelet to give the watch a more dressed-up look.
The new Pacific Diver Ripple 3120M series of watches are all powered by a Swiss quartz movement, have sapphire crystals and are water-resistant to 200m. And as always, they also feature the Luminox Light Technology, which utilises tritium gas tubes to provide illumination for up to 25 years.
It is no secret that luxury watch brands have been taking keen interest in jewellery for years as part of their learning curve to design horological sculptures. The idea is to look beyond pure timekeeping and precision instruments to develop extraordinary jewels of time; this of course has nothing to do with the jewels in mechanical calibres!
Isabelle Cerboneschi, a renowned historian of fashion, watchmaking and jewellery had this to say when asked about the watch brand that paved the way in terms of applying ornamentation in its collections, “If we’re talking about the last two centuries, I would definitely say Vacheron Constantin. The company, which was founded in 1755, joined forces with the Parisian jeweller Ferdinand Verger (which later changed to the name Verger Frères in 1921) as early as 1879…until 1938. Together, they created jewellery that told time according to the style and taste of that period, including some Art Nouveau and Art Deco marvels. They had nothing to envy the pieces of the great jewellers of Place Vendôme in Paris. The Verger Company had registered numerous patents in the field of jewellery and watchmaking, and Vacheron Constantin benefited from these awe-inspiring inventions. For instance, in the company’s archives, there is a watch with flaps that opens mechanically to reveal the time.”
Vacheron Constantin 1972
Jewellery and watchmaking in Geneva, the home of Vacheron Constantin, became interlinked when the austere Christian reformer John Calvin ran the show in the city back in the 16th century. He banned jewellery, and thus the craftspeople all switched to watchmaking; it is a well-known story in the city, and shaped the destiny of watchmaking in Switzerland, as did the Reformation in general. Swiss watchmakers later developed a reputation for crafting highly ornate pieces, in stark contrast with their English and American counterparts.
When it comes to giving an ornamental look to watches, Abraham-Louis Breguet was also very influential. “Breguet was really at the cutting edge of making watches people carried, particularly European royalty and nobility, and some of those early pieces had amazing ornamentation done on them. Of course, he didn’t start it. In fact, it started long before him in the preceding centuries, but he helped make it more fashionable,” said Eric Wind, a seasoned vintage watch expert.
EVOLUTION OF WATCH SHAPES INSPIRED BY JEWELLERY
Jewellery houses have also played a pioneering role in the origin of wristwatches that never fall short of appealing to the senses, and the one that alwayd comes to mind is Cartier. One only needs to think of the Santos to understand why, and then add Edmond Jaeger’s contribution and it all makes sense. Always regarded as the jeweller of kings and the king of jewellers, Cartier remains a triumphant player in both haute joaillerie and haute horlogerie. We do not need to see the novelties at Watches and Wonders Geneva to tell you that there will be some sublime “jewels of time,” on display.
The principle of embracing liberal yet enchanting designs of its own has always been at the core of Cartier’s ethos even when it comes to creating highend timepieces in varying shapes thanks to its unparalleled expertise in jewellery. We will just name-drop a few for good measure: the Tank (in all its various forms), Tortue, the mind-bending Crash, Cloche, Ballon Bleu, and Baignoire—We could go on at length but Cartier will always deliver some sort of new sort of watch that will surprise (like the recent Pebble, seen below).
A good part of the success of these watch shapes also has to do with their attractive design features such as Roman numerals, blued hands (sword hands or Breguet hands), and rail-road minute tracks on the dials. No other brand has had as much success with shaped watches as Cartier, and it all has to do with both how the watches look as well as how they wear. When gems are in the picture, Cartier takes it to another level.
“I think Cartier has often been the maker of the best “jewellery watches” in that they sometimes have incredible stones incorporated and other times it’s just the watch standing on its own merit,” Wind said. The gem-set version of the Astrotourbillon (literally a favourite of more than one WOW editor) bears this out. Wind continues: “The worlds of jewellery and watches are inextricably connected as watches really evolved out of jewellery centuries ago; pieces of the watch such as the case and dial were mostly made by jewellers for early timepieces. Often the craftsmen and designers for watches started their careers in jewellery. Gérald Genta, probably the most famous watch designer of all time, started life as a jewellery designer before pivoting to watches and his work very much reflects that approach. Gilbert Albert, who famously designed so many interesting Patek Philippe watches, especially the iconic Asymetrie wristwatch series in the 1960s, also was a jewellery designer. At the end of the day, jewellery and watches are both about shapes and craftsmanship or skill.”
Cartier Tank Française
Gilbert’s contribution to the world of jewelled watches can be gauged precisely from the Patek Philippe Ref. 3295, part of the “Tutti Frutti collection”. Most importantly, it won the 1960 Prix de la Ville Genève (which today is the GPHG) jewellery watch award.
“Not surprisingly, the real difference came to light when brands like Piaget, Omega, Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet called on brilliant designers like Gerald Genta or the lesser known but no less brilliant Jean Claudie-Gueit, who worked for big brands like Baume & Mercier, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Rolex, for whom he particularly invented the rainbow setting. But above all, he worked for Piaget, creating emblematic models such as the Polo or other more creative watches, including articulated cuffs or stone dials all under the aegis of Yves Piaget,” Cerboneschi said.
So in terms of shapes especially asymmetrical ones from trapezoidal to elliptical, if one looks at the vintage models of Patek Philippe (the Gondolo collection), Vacheron Constantin (its 1972 asymmetric model, tonneau and cushion-shaped designs), Piaget, Omega and Audemars Piguet, all these watch brands borrowed from the rich history of jewellery aesthetics. All in all, Vacheron Constantin was having its own heyday in designing playful watch designs from 1910 to 1930 like a shutter watch from the 1930s and the ref. 10970 from 1917. As Christian Selmoni, heritage and style director at Vacheron Constantin said, “When it comes to the Maison still releasing limited editions of early shaped watches from its archives, the best example that comes to mind is the American 1921, which is one of the most recognizable designs of the brand with its crown at 1 o’clock and its inclined dial in a cushion-shaped case. Such models from the past demonstrate Vacheron Constantin’s endless creativity and bold attitude already adopted by it at the beginning of the 20th century.”
Shedding further light on how jewellery has influenced the technical aspect of watchmakers or taken it to another level, Wind pointed out, “There have always been new innovations in the world of jewellery, including advancements in the art of stone setting and materials used. So watchmakers will often adopt these approaches in order to advance their own designs.”
Another famous Swiss watchmaker with a history of crafting astonishing watches in bold shapes is Corum with its Golden Bridge collection. Since its introduction in 1980, the brand has been able to occupy a particular place in the hearts of watch lovers. “All the iterations of the Golden Bridge collection created thus far have been extremely successful in garnering a great deal of popularity in the watch collecting world thanks to (watchmaker) Vincent Calabrese’s vision of inventing a timepiece without a dial yet revealing the movement in its entirety,” said Marc Walti, head of product marketing and communications at Corum.
Corum Golden Bridge models
While the baguette movement can fit into any shape, Walti explained, “We will focus mainly on the iconic tonneau shape in the future and play more with “métiers d’art” to better highlight this movement. Having a collection such as this which remains in demand is a boon and the wish of many a watch brand. Timelessness is a highly sought-after value in this sector.”
MEN’S PENCHANT FOR WATCHES IN DIFFERENT COUNTRIES
“Nevertheless, there will always be male customers obsessed with purchasing luxury bling jewellery watches like the famous footballer Cristiano Ronaldo whose passion for ostentatious jewelled timepieces is well-documented. But as time goes by, the demand for traditional watches fitted with extreme complications as well as studded with precious gemstones and diamonds in a certain way will also grow bigger,” Cerboneschi said.
Jacob & Co. The Caviar Tourbillon Tsavorites
It is no wonder that Ronaldo’s preference for classy watches adorned with gemstones is no less prominent. He is often spotted wearing one of Breguet double tourbillon models such as its Classique ‘Grande Complication’ 5349PT model. Since the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia is now his new homeland after he signed the contract with the country’s Al Nassr football club, he made it more special by wearing the most lavish and expensive timepiece “The Caviar Tourbillon Tsavorites” created by Jacob & Co for his arrival here in January this year. The case of this 47mm watch comes adorned with 224 baguette tsavorites on the surface, with 130 baguette tsavorites used on the dial and 18 on the buckle.
The popularity of jewelled watches certainly owes a lot of credit to men and women alike as they both love such luxury pieces. “I think of the Rolex Rainbow Daytona series as the perfect example where men and women both want to own this watch,” Wind said.
The Galápagos Islands and their waters are amongst the most biodiverse regions in the world. The environment is also home to an unusually large number of endemic species, due to the remote location in the Pacific Ocean, some 900 km from continental Ecuador’s west coast. This unique set of qualities has made the Galápagos an especially important focus of ocean conservation efforts.
Indeed, much has been accomplished. The Ecuadorian government, for instance, established the Galápagos Marine Reserve to protect the islands’ waters in 1998, then expanded the reserve’s coverage by approximately 50 per cent in 2021 to its present size of 133,000 km2. Ocean conservation non-profit Mission Blue, founded by the famed marine biologist and Rolex Testimonee Sylvia Earle, also designated the waters of the Galápagos as one of its first “Hope Spots” in 2010.
Sylvia Earle, Rolex Testimonee and founder of Mission Blue, in front of the DeepSea submersible. In 2022, she led an expedition to the Galápagos Islands Hope Spot.
Far from being a one and done process, ocean conservation is an ongoing endeavour. To that end, Earle led a multi-institutional team of scientists on a two-week research expedition across the Galápagos Islands Hope Spot in 2022. Conducted with Rolex’s support, the Mission Blue Galápagos expedition worked to assess the impact of the existing protections that are in place, as well as to identify the challenges and opportunities for future conservation efforts.
IMPACT STUDY
A Galápagos shark patrols the reefs of the Galápagos Islands Hope Spot.
Earle, a Rolex Testimonee since 1982, is a veteran marine biologist and oceanographer with over six decades of experience in these fields. Her first visit to the Galápagos took place in 1966, when she discovered its waters teeming with life and remarked that they were “the sharkiest, fishiest place” she had ever been. Since then, the wider awareness of the volcanic archipelago has grown exponentially. Unfortunately, this has resulted in greater pressures on the delicate ecosystems of the Galápagos, whether from pollution, invasive species, or demands on its resources. Protecting the region is thus more critical than ever before.
A large part of the expedition was devoted to revealing the hidden and forgotten diversity beneath the waves to provide a baseline value of ecosystem health that can be tracked by future surveys. To do so, the expedition employed a range of cutting-edge technologies such as underwater video systems, which allowed the expedition team to collect population data for little-studied animals such as endemic slipper lobsters.
Alex Hearn, Mission Blue co-Champion for the Galápagos Islands Hope Spot and Professor of Marine Biology at Universidad San Francisco de Quito, retrieves and replaces a receiver that has been detecting tagged marine animals passing by.
To complement the above, eDNA (environmental DNA) analysis was also used. The technique involves isolating and sequencing DNA found in the environment being studied, in this case via seawater samples. The crucial advantage here is that data on organisms that elude visual study can still be gathered. Unsurprisingly, eDNA analysis did turn up interesting results. “Most of our sequences are not matching any public database,” shared Diana Pazmiño, a researcher with the Galápagos Science Center. “[This] means that not many things have been sequenced from the Galápagos, or there are things that are new to science that we have not identified yet.”
This finding paralleled an earlier expedition undertaken by Earle and Salome Buglass of the Charles Darwin Foundation, which took place the year before. During that study, a new species of kelp was discovered deep beneath the water’s surface. The two scientists followed up on the discovery on the 2022 expedition by exploring the Galápagos’ depths in the DeepSee submersible, where they uncovered lush hidden forests of kelp. There are now tentative theories that these kelp forests are critical in maintaining the region’s biodiversity. “Kelp forests in other parts of the world have a critical role in supporting biodiversity,” explained Buglass, “and maybe we have found that piece of the puzzle that explains why biodiversity and biomass are so amazingly rich in the Galápagos.”
Sylvia Earle and Salome Buglass descend in the DeepSee submersible in search of deep sea kelp that may be new to science, during the Mission Blue Galápagos expedition in 2022.
Various other broad-based studies were also undertaken during the 2022 expedition, from mapping the foraging grounds of penguin colonies to measuring microplastic levels. The expedition team continued ongoing long-term research into the transoceanic movements of marine animals too by, for example, capturing location tags of sharks that have come from as far away as the Gulf of Mexico. This is particularly important, as it supports the view that international cooperation is vital to ocean conservation work – as well as the need to expand marine protections further. In 2021, Ecuador, Panama, Colombia, and Costa Rica jointly announced the creation of the Eastern Tropical Pacific Marine Corridor, which expanded and linked the four countries’ protected waters to create a fishing-free “swimway” for migratory sharks, turtles, rays and whales. The expedition’s findings have demonstrated the need for more such swimways – globally, no less – to protect marine wildlife, and the need to think on a larger scale beyond national borders.
A MODEL TO FOLLOW
In many ways, the Galápagos Islands Hope Spot is a bellwether for ocean conservancy as a whole. On one level, the attention and support that the islands receive mean that the region has, arguably, the greatest chance of success in this area. As Earle herself has succinctly asked, “If you can’t protect the Galápagos Islands, what part of the planet can you protect?”
On another level, the work that is being done in the region also has the potential to serve as the model for conservancy projects elsewhere to follow. Alex Hearn, an ecologist from the Galápagos Science Center who convened the team of scientists for the expedition, believes that “if we can get it right here [in the Galápagos], that is a blueprint for getting it right across the planet.” From best practices in monitoring the markers of an ecosystem’s health to cross-disciplinary approaches for reversing human impacts on the environment, the Galápagos Islands Hope Spot is serving as a pioneer in the field, with lessons learned from its management percolating to other Hope Spots – and beyond.
THE BIGGER PICTURE
Argo, a state-of-the-art research vessel, is moored off of Wolf Island during the Mission Blue Galápagos expedition in 2022, led by legendary oceanographer Sylvia Earle, Rolex Testimonee and founder of Mission Blue.
Mission Blue will, of course, continue to establish Hope Spots around the world to protect oceanic regions of significant value. Since its founding in 2009 by Earle, the organisation has already created a network of 150 Hope Spots covering nearly 58 million km2 of the oceans. The goal is to extend this protection to 30 per cent of the oceans by 2030.
Rolex’s support for Mission Blue is part of its overall commitment to protecting the planet. This is an extension of its work in championing exploration – both for the sake of discovery and to push the limits of human endeavour. The brand subsumed its efforts in this area under the Perpetual Planet Initiative in 2019, and currently counts Mission Blue and the National Geographic Society as its major partners. As part of its expanding portfolio of partnerships under the initiative, Rolex also supports diverse projects such as Steve Boyes’s the Great Spine of Africa expeditions, which explores the continent’s major river basins, as well as Coral Gardeners’s work to transplant resilient corals to rejuvenate reefs.
Rolex’s commitment to supporting the individuals and organisations using science to understand and overcome our environmental challenges is long-term. In much the same way, this parallels the manufacture’s approach to watchmaking, which sees it taking the long view on things with a focus on constant improvements in every possible area. Given time, the right resources, and a little luck, the challenges that our planet faces may be overcome yet.
The watches of Bell & Ross may be Swiss Made but the heart and soul of the brand are very much entrenched in France. Therefore, it makes perfect sense that for an aviation partnership, in 2021, they chose the Patrouille de France, an elite unit of the French Air and Space Force. This year marks the 70th anniversary of this prestigious aerobatic display team that has built its reputation on the prowess of its pilots.
To celebrate this momentous milestone with Patrouille de France, Bell & Ross launched a limited edition of their BR 03-92 which offers a dial in a mesmerising shade of blue, a colour that mirrors the team’s Alpha Jet. The beautiful dial is combined with subtle elements of colour in the form of the yellow Patrouille de France insignia, a beautiful logo to indicate its 70th anniversary and the colours of the French flag represented on a ring around the dial. This vibrancy is balanced nicely with the white Arabic numerals and hand tips to ensure the utmost legibility. It is, after all, designed with the input of the pilots.
The 42mm width of the square BR 03-92 case is made of the same high-tech ceramic found on previous models and it has also been given a matte black coating to ensure the case maintains a utilitarian look. On the back side, the designers have taken special care to fit in all five aircraft that have flown since the creation of the Patrouille de France in 1953. This includes the Thunderjet which was flown during the team’s debut, the Alphajet which has been in service since 1981, and the Ouragan, Mystère IV and Fouga Magister which have helped forge their legacy. These planes, built not for their destructive capabilities but rather for agility and manoeuvrability in the skies, have very interesting silhouettes adding to the uniqueness of the caseback.
The BR 03-92 Patrouille de France 70th Anniversary is powered by the solid BR-CAL 302 movement and the entire watch is water resistant up to 100 metres. Whether you are a Francophile, aerophile or just looking for a new shade of dial colour, this new launch from Bell & Ross will appeal to at least one, if not all the mentioned demographics. And at only 999 pieces available worldwide, you can be sure that it will quickly ‘fly’ off the shelf.
MOVEMENT BR-CAL.302 automatic CASE 42mm in micro-blasted ceramic STRAP blue calfskin and ultra-resilient black synthetic canvas fabric PRICE MYR 17,600
The renowned watch historian and author Gisbert L. Brunner noted that collecting watches is a passion that can go deep or wide. As far as building single-brand collections go, the realities of 2022 are generally irrelevant except for those who focus on Rolex. This is particularly true for those new to watch collecting who are going with the safest and easiest to understand approach. It goes something like this: buy Rolex and you cannot go wrong. This seems facetious but, in our view, it includes and incorporates what happens if you buy a watch you do not like. Bought a steel Rolex Cosmograph Daytona only to discover a year later that you do not like chronographs? No problem, because you can easily find willing buyers for the watch. We grant that this scenario is improbable, but it applies to any Rolex watch. That is an appealing proposition, but first you would have to be able to buy a Rolex…
As we wrote in our Festive issue, it is still possible to buy Rolex watches. But it is also true that Rolex boutiques only have display pieces now — to buy a watch you have to register your interest at the store with the authorised dealer. If you find this unacceptable, you could try to find so-called new old stock (NOS) from traders who are on a variety of platforms, including good old brick-and-mortar. The main downside here – there are a few but this is the main one — is that you will be completely outside the official retail system, including the recommended retail price. To state the obvious, the price for all NOS current production models will be above the recommended retail price.
If older watches are your game, then these types of traders will not suit you because they mainly try to ride on the hype (and advertising) for current production models. To be sure, by older here we do not mean models from the 1950s or 60s. Even the Submariner Ref 16610 (produced between 1987 to 2010, and probably the most widely available pre-owned Submariner) will not be in these traders’ inventories. Certainly more esoteric models such as the Oysterquartz and the Prince will not be in stock. The larger players such as Peng Kwee may have options for both. As a seasoned collector, you do not need us to tell you what to do. Nevertheless, we have more to say on the general state of the pre-owned market elsewhere, if that interests you.
Returning to current Rolex models, the burgeoning collector must consider what safety is really worth. Wait times are uncertain, and you are not guaranteed a watch just because you have been waitlisted. We can report that authorised dealers may even refuse to waitlist you for popular models in steel such as the GMT-Master II and the Sea-Dweller. For something like the 126600 Sea-Dweller reference, it becomes relevant to consider the Rolesor version, reference 126603. The current retail price is $23,490 while the reference 126600 is selling pre-owned for upwards of $22,000. On the other hand, if you must have the GMT-Master II with the Pepsi bezel then you have to choose between steel and white gold. The price gap is significant so the pre-owned steel reference is still a better deal, and the steel version is arguably more authentic.
With this in mind, let us consider the state of pre-owned for something like the GMT Master II, while also noting that we address the matter of pricing elsewhere; pricing requires its own dedicated space, and we are obliged by a lack of transparency and regularity in the pricing of watches in general to approach this subject obliquely, by looking only at current recommended retail prices and listed secondary market prices. All that aside, traders have a window stretching a few years at most to clear their inventory, which we consider to be sometime within the five year manufacturer warranty; Rolex warranties are between two and five years, depending on the movements in use. When this warranty goes into effect is a big deal, but first, a bit of a disclaimer.
Full disclosure: the principal author of this section is the editor, and he has been on the hunt for a GMT-Master II since the aluminium bezel first got phased out. With regards to price checks on this watch, his personal research has been used for the story. He is also on the hunt for multiple Rolex watches. Readers should be aware of potential biases. On another note, and to be absolutely clear, professional traders and secondary market dealers will certainly need to move products far more quickly than even the shorter two-year window proposed here. No dealer we spoke with for this story wanted to be quoted on exact figures and practises, and we did a considerable amount of research without disclosing our intent to publish. As such, we must be circumspect and even elliptical in our descriptions.
Back on point, you will have to be careful about warranties because you may not be considered the first owner of the watch, should you buy it. Rolex says the warranty is good from the date of purchase, but this presumably only applies to watches bought from authorised dealers. Consequently, any GMT-Master II that has been sitting on someone’s shelf for too long — even if that shelf is in a proper shop — must be considered suspect. We would recommend purchasing the watch from someone who has actually been wearing the watch, and presumably caring for it. You at least know that such a watch works. Remember that once you go pre-owned, you are out of the safe authorised dealer space.
Finally, Rolex collectors need to resign themselves to having to coexist and compete with investment and asset-protection obsessed buyers. This can be frustrating, typically for people who want current production watches, but it can also be a great boon for seasoned collectors who are primarily interested in vintage watches. Look at the pre-owned prices of Rolex Submariners (reference 16610) and compare this to current after-market prices. This point is true for Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet collectors too, because the new set of buyers are only concerned with existing models. It is also tremendously useful for anyone interested in gold or half-gold watches, for reasons we propose in another segment in this issue.
It may be strange to find this written anywhere, but this moment in time is perhaps still too early to ask questions about sustainability in watchmaking. Not premature mind you, just a little too early to get useful answers. It is the useful answers part there that informed the decision to begin this section with caveats.
On the face of it, given that climate change is progressing no matter our perspective on it, the discussion on this subject is still at the start line. For example, the industry has just about come around to the idea that the origins of the materials used to make the watches are key. As far as we know, the first public discussion of the realities of the supply chain was at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (now called Watches & Wonders) in 2019.
Unfortunately, this is not an indication that watchmaking is ahead of the game here because public reports, including the World Wildlife Fund had already called for greater transparency in this regard as early as 2018, as we dig into elsewhere in this section.
Prior to this, some watchmaking maisons were talking about how their new manufactures were carbon neutral, and of course their support for various causes. These days though, just these steps will fall short of the mark, at best. At worst, they open the industry to accusations of greenwashing. This is really a shame because a lot of good work is being done, or supported by watchmaking brands.
Typically, we avoid watchmaking industry insider stories in favour of those with a stronger relevance to consumers – collectors and enthusiasts like you, in other words. There is a good reason to care about transparency and sustainability for all of us though, and it can summed up in one word: cost.
Not only will prices of Swiss watches likely rise as companies add measures and oversight to cope with regulatory pressures, there may be environmental and reputational costs as well. Just think about how you would feel about your watch if the brand that made it was found to be supporting forced labour in gold mines, or contributing to the degradation of the environment thanks to the practices of some random supplier. It happens in fashion all the time, after all.
Sustainability watch
The Deloitte Swiss Watch Industry Study2020 notes that more than 50 per cent of consumers surveyed said that sustainability was very important to them, so the cost of not running afoul of this group will certainly be worth it. It seems from the report that the so-called Millenials and Gen Z groups care even more about sustainability than other age groups. We will be referring to this report and its findings quite extensively in this story.
We pause here for a moment to congratulate Chopard on having the foresight and the will to do better, as far as the gold they are using goes. The brand’s Fairmined initiative back in 2013 was the first effort by a major watch and jewellery house to address the impact of the business on the natural world and marginalised communities. We also congratulate Oris on becoming a climate-neutral company, certified by ClimatePartner, a leading independent climate action expert.
The company not only makes products that are sustainable, but also calculates the impact of its entire business, right down to workers commuting to the office. It earned climate-neutral status by offsetting more than 2,500 tonnes of CO2 through its sustainability initiatives. We will have a little more to say about this elsewhere in this section, but we wanted to single out Oris here as a way to show how other brands might also be doing the same, yet not communicating it directly enough.
This may lead some to draw links with the fashion industry, which recently received a tongue-lashing from firebrand climate-change activist Greta Thunberg. Bear in mind, the fashion industry actually makes raw data available to a variety of authorities to confirm that their supply chains are not contaminated by any evil practices. Even so — or perhaps because of this — it gets a lot of flak.
Clear and present danger
Some may see a certain degree of adjacency in the worlds of watchmaking and fashion [Editor’s note: on LUXUO, watches used to fall under the Style category], with the world’s largest luxury conglomerate LVMH running iconic names such as Louis Vuitton and TAG Heuer. Of course, it also runs Moet Chandon and Glenmorangie and no one suggests any adjacency there.
For our part, it seems clear that all industries will have to see that they are not causing harm, at the very least, so some standards might apply across the board. Setting such standards is a challenge, of course, and poses all kinds of political risks.
This was on show at the World Economic Forum this year, as global business leaders cited climate action failure as a major risk for the economy, and one with the best chance of being mitigated by a coordinated global response. The key point here is that risk, which is not acting in a harmful manner, but in merely failing to prevent harm.
Accountants everywhere are now working to integrate this particular risk into their formulas, especially with regards to multinationals. One relevant example here was called the Responsible Business Initiative, which was rejected by Swiss voters last November, but this is not the end of that story.
Fast fashion certainly receives the lion’s share of the wrath of climate activists, and it probably deserves it, if news reports are anything to go on [Editor’s note: too many to cite]. Any so-called luxury brands using child labour for any reason ought to be tarred and feathered (and probably fined into oblivion). So far, there has not even been a whiff of scandal in watchmaking, but this might come down to the subject that preoccupies us in this issue: transparency. But we are racing ahead of ourselves again, and risking getting tripped up by our own feet.
The realistic view
Backing up again to our opening assertion, by too early to discuss, we mean to say that there are many industries that have to grapple with their impact on the planet – tier one players, if you will – and watchmaking firms (especially those with a mechanical focus) are nowhere near that level.
We take the view that it is pointless to tear into watch firms when coal-fired power plants are still merrily burning away like there is no tomorrow. Actually, more are being built to meet tomorrow’s demands, according to The Economist, the Financial Times and many more mainstream sources.
There is some understanding within the trade of this obvious fact, with executives still claiming that mechanical watches are sustainable products, because they are not disposable. This is not a false statement, of course, but it does tend to lead to some unearned praise. H. Moser & Cie made quite a memorable joke about this some years ago with a statement watch, but we will hear more from the brand directly and candidly on the subject of sustainability later in our conversation with CEO Edouard Meylan.
To refer back to our earlier praise of Oris, CEO Rolf Studer put it most succinctly in a comment related to the climate neutral news, as delivered to WatchPro: “A mechanical watch has a very low impact on the environment because it’s designed to last. But that’s not enough,” he says. The first part of Studer’s statement is echoed by many watch industry executives, high and low. The second part, not so much, with a number of executives concerned about trade secrets and competitive advantages.
Walking the talk
Cartier CEO Cyrille Vigneron addressed this directly with us as he explained the brand’s drive towards greater transparency in its entire operations. “The transparency I am talking about has nothing to do with trade secrets. It is about the raw materials that go into our products, and our supply chain.”
He publicly explained during Watches & Wonders earlier this year that the brand was deeply concerned about the world, and the impact of its business on the same. Vigneron noted that brands could not just say they were sustainable, they had to prove it. Richemont, the parent group of Cartier, has been talking the talk, and walking the walk for perhaps longer than any other group, which is why its brands rank highest in the WWF report.
To frame this admittedly long narrative, we must add an expected caveat. If you love watches but are concerned about the environmental impact of current industrial practices, then you must turn to vintage watches. Aside from the obvious (you are extending the lifespan of a watch), you also do not have to trouble yourself with any thoughts about how the contemporary company making watches with the same badge conducts itself.
This is important because it is often impossible to be sure watchmaking firms are doing all the right things if you do not want to take their word for it. This brings us back to sustainability, and that law that will go before Swiss legislators in place of the aforementioned Responsible Business Initiative.
The sustainability conversation in watchmaking tends to coalesce around the unfortunate subject of transparency. Well, transparency is the most significant roadblock, and is thus the most well-known and persistent problem. It goes back to the debate over Swiss Made standards, and to third-party movement suppliers working surreptitiously for a few major brands.
It all sounds very suspicious, like some sort of Tom Clancy novel, but really it is all quite pedestrian. Like the business of making hairsprings, there really is not much to shout about here but to prove that we would need to supply evidence.. which is lacking. As you will have guessed, the Swiss watchmaking trade tends to be opaque by tradition.
Coming changes
This is where Swiss legislators hold the reins as they consider a law next year that will force even private companies to make certain non-financial disclosures. These include the following, according to Deloitte:
Environmental concerns
Social and employee concerns
Respect for human rights
Combating corruption
Reportedly, this legislation cannot be shrugged off by even private and family-owned firms because every Swiss firm will be called to order, as long as they meet the following criteria:
500 full-time positions or CHF 20 million balance sheet total and/or CHF 40 million in sales (source: Deloittes). The New York Times reports that affected companies will have to “ensure the traceability of their supply chains, and make their reports publicly available for 10 years…” We need not spell out exactly which companies will be taking notice here.
As watch enthusiasts, collectors, traders and even hobbyists, we know that these will include the biggest and most powerful names in watchmaking. As mentioned, watchmaking firms are not specifically targeted, and are certainly far from being tier one players, which we repeat for clarity.
That being said, climate change rhetoric is heating up, thus lighting a fire under the feet of watch industry executives. In 2018, the WWF report called out a startling number of brands for their alleged lack of transparency in a widely cited public document.
You can easily find these stories — and the report itself — online by searching for sustainability in watchmaking, but despite the attention, the topical subject remains largely difficult to discuss. The expert sources we found for this special section mostly pointed to one chief area: the supply chain, specifically where and how watchmakers get their raw materials.
To outline the problem more succinctly, consider all the metal that gets used to make wristwatches, cases, movements, bracelets and all. Most of the world might be shocked to learn that the average watch in stainless steel already uses a significant percentage (up to 50 per cent) of recycled iron.
This varies from material to material, with titanium and aluminium on the higher end of the scale, while ceramic hugs the bottom at zero percent. This is because of material properties and engineering challenges, not some sort of conspiracy, to be clear. Indeed, the ceramic used in your typical higher-end watch might very well be eternal — well everlasting and evernew as a sapphire anyway.
No silver bullets
For the purposes of transparency, we will acknowledge a few points before moving on. First and foremost is that this magazine urges better transparency for Swiss watchmaking, in general. Having said that, dear readers, you may detect sour notes of cynicism throughout this section, but what you are sensing is our pessimism.
Pessimism is a little more honest than cynicism, and we hope to blunt this by making a few active recommendations. Transparency is the most important thing, for the same reason we asked CEOs how their manufactures were coping with the pandemic. Watches are fun, and they are meant to be.
Something that is fun should not be hurting anyone, at the very least. No one should be suffering so that we can have fine timepieces, in other words. This article alludes to this point, but it should be made explicit. This, we think, is the most basic position we can take. Indeed, this should be the starting position for any firm that makes watches.
Secondly, we should be wary of arbitrary standards. One such example is illustrated by the Panerai Submersible eLab-ID, which would be currently the most sustainable watch in the world, if it were a full production model, which it is not. In any case, Panerai had found a way to make this watch out of 98.6% material.
To be more precise, that is the percentage of recycled material in the watch, by weight. So, the obvious question is why not go the extra mile? “To get that last 1.4%, we would have to use so much energy that it wouldn’t be saving anything…Our idea isn’t to do something at an idotic level, just to say we did it,” Panerai COO Jerome Cavadini told us. In other words, the cost of doing something positive for the world should not result in a negative for the environment. That would be idiotic, and yet it may well be the result of reductionist thinking. Sustainability is a complex matter that will not be solved by overly simplistic approaches.
On that note, we have to move to the unknowns, which is the most vexing aspect of sustainability. For example, are Richemont brands so highly regarded by the WWF report because they are better communicators than some independents? While we do try to present each major group’s position on sustainability elsewhere in this section, often there is no news to report.
Even the very positive Oris news does not mean it will rank highly in the next edition of the WWF report, assuming the brand is included, which it was not in 2018. How you feel about the Oris achievement depends on what you think of ClimatePartner, an organisation you may never have heard of. We have a compromise solution to suggest, which we will get to in the second part of this section.
This historical Breguet table clock exhibits all manner of clever mechanisms, including a constant force escapement and a detent escapement. In relatively immobile timekeepers, the detent escapement would have hit its stride. Image: Breguet
The story of the wristwatch escapement spins hard and fast, not always aiming for absolute precision. In presenting the basics of the beating heart of the mechanical calibre, we have only covered the basics. Considering that watch brands keep throwing research and development into this area, there will likely always be more to cover. No one expected the Zenith escapement when it was first announced, for example. Even in 2020, there is a new escapement in play, thanks to Seiko — but more on that specific development later. Believe it or not, there is more to cover in terms of escapement approaches already out there in the world.
In this story, we will be covering the natural escapement and the detent escapement. These two are somewhat related, which is why we opted to group them together. We will not be covering single-beat escapements overall, instead folding this type of regulating organ into the detent section. The reasons will become obvious once you get into the detent escapement, if you do not already know them.
As we previously noted in our coverage of the verge escapement, there were a few escapement ideas that preceded the Swiss lever, including a number that were in use before Christiaan Huygens pioneered the balance spring, ultimately perfecting it in 1675. We pause here for a moment to be clear that English scientist Robert Hooke (of Hooke’s Law) also has a claim to the balance spring but Huygens definitely had one built to his specifications.
While we pause to take stock, we also note that this story works best with an understanding of the basics of the escapement. A short summary is included here, for convenience.
The rest of this story is divided into a few parts, including the aforementioned sections on the two related escapements. We had planned to include a section on contemporary watches featuring these somewhat archaic and quite rare technologies, but it was not to be. It is a fact that these sorts of escapements are the rarest of all non-Swiss lever escapements out there.
As mentioned earlier, Grand Seiko is debuting an original escapement this year, but we will reserve that for our next story on escapement, when it can shine as the star of the show. To our knowledge, it is the only new type of escapement for 2020, a year that will definitely be the most unbalanced (so far) in the new millennium. It is important to note here that the new 9SA5 calibre features a dual-impulse escapement. So although it might remind some observers of variations on the detent escapement theme, it is most assuredly not that type of escapement.
A contemporary illustration of how the Earnshaw detent escapement works. Image: Cvetkovic, Stojicevic, Popkonstantinovic
We end this introduction with a note about pricing. Pioneering escapement technology is no easy matter, and the costs can be significant. Every press release about the development of such exotic regulators as the Girard-Perregaux Constant Escapement or the Zenith Oscillator implies tremendous research and development expense.
To illustrate this point, let us take a look at a specific example relevant to this story. The Urban Jurgensen 1140C, is an excellent case in point. This watch has a recommended retail price of EU48,100 in rose gold (excluding VAT). This contrasts with the 1140 RG Brown also in rose gold, which goes for EU28,200 (excluding VAT); this version has a regular Swiss lever escapement.
While there is no way to know if the difference in prices is down to the movement, you can certainly expect to pay a premium for special escapements. They are certainly worth more, being far from vanilla, but how much more depends on where you stand on the value such developments add.
Détente: the most reliable mechanical systems for watches
The famous Harrison H4 chronometer
The escapement with the most poetic name, it is also one of the most reliable mechanical systems for watches in motion. So, in anything that is not a pendulum clock, the detent escapement is the precision winner. If you take it further, put a pendulum clock on something that rocks about, like a ship, and its accuracy takes a major hit. The timekeeper with the detent escapement does not have this problem. Indeed, Huygens came up with the pendulum clock in part to create a precise and accurate marine chronometer. Once the clock was tested upon the high seas, it was back to the drawing board, and to some cross-Channel rivalry.
John Harrison had developed a marine chronometer regulated by a verge escapement that worked well in theory. His H4 watch won the longitude race between English and French watchmakers, but it was difficult to reproduce. Larcum Kendall, the watchmaker engaged by the Board of Longitude to reproduce Harrison’s design, found it impossible to mass-produce while keeping costs down. Part of the problem was Harrison’s exotic parts for the time — he used diamonds for the pallets — but the other was the sensitivity of the verge escapement.
In France, watchmaker Pierre Le Roy had delivered a promising escapement as early as 1748 that could have been the solution to making the chronometer easier to produce. English watchmakers John Arnold and Thomas Earnshaw (likely separately) got hold of this design and improved upon it to create what would be called the detent escapement.
The verge and lever escapements both work based on the gear train giving and receiving energy through two contact points, which is easy enough to understand given that the anchor has two arms that contact the escape wheel of the gear train at two points. That also means that the balance receives energy in the form of dynamic force twice — once per swing. This is an indirect way to deliver a way to impulse or power the balance. What if the balance spring and wheel could interact directly with the escape wheel, without an intermediary?
Arnold, Earnshaw, Le Roy and Ferdinand Berthoud knew that friction was the main enemy of accuracy in the mechanical timekeeper. All these watchmakers were key figures in the chronometer side of watchmaking i.e. the pursuit of chronometric excellence. Le Roy, Arnold and Earnshaw’s innovation here was figuring out how to reduce contact between the balance and the escapement; Berthoud’s achievement was a double balance wheel construction, as reported by Su Jia Xian for WatchesbySJX. As a consequence of their pioneering work in reducing friction in mechanical regulating organs, Arnold and Earnshaw developed (independently) the pivoted detent escapement (1773).
The pivoted detent escapement controls the movement of the escape wheel by allowing it to advance one tooth at a time by means of a helical spring (separate and distinct from the balance spring, which is still in play). This helical hairspring allows for a direct impulse on the balance because there is no anchor or lever here. This makes the detent escapement a single-beat escapement because there is only one impulse for each oscillation of the balance wheel. The to-and-fro motion of the balance here thus includes one oscillation without an impulse.
Imagine, dear reader, for a moment a balance wheel and spring whose staff could both receive and deliver force to the escapement. There are still two pallets here, but only one is dynamic; the other acts as a brake for the escape wheel. A special note here is that there is a version of the detent escapement that uses a flat spring rather than a helical one.
The short of all this is that the detent escapement did indeed work as intended, produced great results in marine chronometers, but had some trouble in both pocket and wristwatches. Berner’s Illustrated Dictionary of Horology provides a concise sense of the problem, describing the detent escapement as “a costly, delicate (solution).”
Overcoming the problem in every mechanical escapements
Portrait of Abraham-Louis Breguet. Image: Breguet
The natural escapement, or to use its formal name, echappement naturel, was a significant and early attempt to address the shortcomings of the detent escapement while realising its benefits. Abraham-Louis Breguet (yes that Breguet) was a peer of Arnold and Earnshaw so he inevitably had to play his part in the escapement as well. His echappement naturel took its final form in 1808, and uses two escape wheels. The idea was to make the single-beat nature of the detent escapement more stable, and thus less prone to stoppage due to sudden shocks. The natural escapement does this not by adding a lever (although a sort of lever is present), but via the usage of two escape wheels meshed together. Crucially, this also makes the balance self-starting.
Just as the lever impulses the balance in two steps, so do the dual enmeshed escape wheels. Because the wheels are enmeshed, one drives the other in the opposite direction. In Breguet’s design, both wheels have additional protrusions in a different plane to the teeth of the escape wheels. Basically, this is a double-decker of gearing teeth; this second level of teeth impulses the balance in both directions. In this way, the motion of the escape wheels are regulated by the balance.
Now, there is an obvious problem here: all those gloriously friction-loving gearing teeth. To address that, the meshing of the wheels has to be a bit loose. Unfortunately, this results in a lot of backlash in the unpowered wheel. Breguet could not figure out how to get around this problem, and it was thought that the state of manufacturing at that time could not get the tolerance right. However, it is more than a matter of tolerances — for any alternative to the lever system to be effective, it must offer significant benefits. In the current state of mechanical escapements, that does not seem to be the case.
Indeed, it seems the industry has settled on a particular architecture for the regulating organs, and is content to focus on material innovation to realise gains.
Basics of a mechanical escapement
There are three components to the mechanical escapement, typically. This includes the hairspring, balance wheel and anchor-escape wheel. The anchor or lever receives energy from the mainspring via the escape wheel at the end of the gear train. It sends this to the balance, causing it to spin. The hairspring reacts against this motion, forcing the balance to move in the direction opposite to its initial motion. This to and fro motion is the regulated energy that drives the hands of time, again via the anchor and escape wheel.
Contemporary watches and the detent escapement
Reverso Grande Complication à Triptyque. Image: Jaeger-LeCoultre
The fact that the detent escapement is so easily perturbed by sudden movements makes it unsuitable for the contemporary wristwatch. In the form used by marine chronometers, the detent escapement was also not self-starting, which is also far from ideal in a wristwatch. Nevertheless, the beguiling detent escapement has lured watchmakers in the current era with its promise of better precision, less friction and improved accuracy in timekeeping rates. Pierre Maillard, writing for EuropaStar almost 10 years ago, called this escapement “one of the Grails of chronometric precision.” After all, 21st century engineering solutions should be able to resolve the deficiencies of the detent escapement.
According to Vincent Daveau, writing for Journal Haute Horlogerie (2019), a number of brands have attempted to revive the detent escapement, including big names such as Breguet, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Audemars Piguet. The various editors of World of Watches have experienced these developments directly, but it is certain that none of these promising watches are still in production today. Indeed, Daveau confirms that the Breguet example was merely a prototype, revealed in 2005.
The Jaeger-LeCoultre version of the detent escapement, called the Isometre a Ellipse, was a deeply fascinating experiment that the manufacture deployed in the Reverso Grande Complication a Triptyque. It was a proper pivoted detent escapement, but with a feature that allowed for indirect unlocking of the escape wheel. This seems like an approach that brings a feature from the lever escapement into the picture. For whatever reason, Jaeger-LeCoultre has not used this escapement in any other watch since 2006.
It is a similar story with at Audemars Piguet, which revealed a new escapement to the world based on the detent escapement, also in 2006. This escapement was based on the work of 18th century watchmaker Robert Robin, which also attempted to bring together the advantages of the lever and detent escapements. Unfortunately, the Robin escapement of 1791 was as delicate and difficult to manufacture as the detent escapement, and indeed the natural escapement. Audemars Piguet also did not pursue this escapement for much longer, instead going in a different direction. Hopefully, we will be able to get into that in another issue.
Back in 2011, it seemed only one name in watchmaking wanted to connect strongly with the detent escapement, and it is still amongst the first names one encounters when doing a Google search on the “detent escapement.” The Urban Jurgensen 1140C uses a contemporary version of the detent escapement, and it is still listed on the brand’s website. David Chokron, writing for WatchAround, reported that this version of the detent escapement was finally suitable for use in a wristwatch, if still rather “experimental.”
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust is in the lineage of the Datejust, the emblematic model that has been a byword for style and accurate timekeeping. Image: Rolex
For an object of such diminutive stature, the wristwatch often has an outsized presence. The bon vivant will absolutely love these four outstanding Rolex watches — while the captivating shine of their diamonds and precious materials will draw in everyone else. The Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust, Oyster Perpetual Pearlmaster 39, and two Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 watches all demonstrate the wondrous pairing of diamonds and precious metals found in the finest of watches by Rolex.
Precious metals such as gold and platinum come to us from the stars, literally. They were born in the hearts of giant stars that exploded and scattered the particles across the universe. Diamonds, by way of contrast are born in the depths of the Earth over the course of a billion years. Through their unique brilliance and the extreme care taken in their setting, the high-quality precious stones selected by Rolex endow gem-set watches with unbridled prestige.
Using only the highest quality gemstones, Rolex own in-house gemmologists and gem-setters work in perfect harmony to reveal the diamond’s radiance. The process begins by sourcing the most striking stones, and then deciding how best to showcase them. As the art of gem-setting lies in ensuring that the sparkle and beauty of each stone is fully revealed, the Rolex gem-setter expertly sets each stone, one by one, taking care to ensure symmetry in size and placement — Rolex tolerates variances of no more than 2 hundredths of a millimetre, which is around a quarter of the diameter of a human hair. A final polish makes the tiny metal settings shine, intensifying the watch’s splendour.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust
The Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust is Rolex’s classic feminine watch par excellence. It is one of the most varied lines in the Oyster Perpetual collection, distinguished by its elegance and refinement. Image: Rolex
The classic Rolex feminine watch, the Lady-Datejust benefits from all the attributes of the Datejust, the emblematic Rolex watch that has been a byword for style and technical performance ever since its launch in 1945. The feminine version of the iconic chronometer, the Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust first appeared in 1957, showcasing the elegance of the Datejust in a small 28 mm size perfectly suited to a slender wrist, and it has retained its iconic size since that time.
Available in Oystersteel, in 18 ct yellow or Everose gold, or in Rolesor versions that combine both Oystersteel and 18 ct gold, the Lady-Datejust comes in a wealth of versions to perfectly reflect the different personalities of its wearers. The range of materials of the Lady-Datejust is equalled only by a stunning range of bracelets and subtle dials that enhance its style.
A fluted, domed or diamond-set bezel? Exclusive, shimmering dials paved with diamonds or the fascinating hues of mother-of-pearl? Simple or gem-set hour markers, or even Roman numerals? The many faces of the Lady-Datejust make this model one of the most varied in the Oyster Perpetual collection.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust in 18 ct yellow gold fitted with a diamond-paved dial and a diamond-set President bracelet
A showstopper of a wristwatch unveiled this year, the Lady-Datejust is paved with sparkling diamonds, with its 18 ct yellow gold case and President bracelet just peeking out between the prongs. The case sides and lugs of the new Lady-Datejust are set with 158 brilliant-cut diamonds as well as 44 brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel. The President bracelet sparkles with a further 596 brilliant-cut diamonds. Showcasing the captivating shine of the diamonds that adorn every surface, the dial is fully paved with 291 diamonds. For an added touch of splendour, the dial also features 18 ct yellow gold Roman numerals that bear a lustrous black finish.
The function of timekeeping itself is uncompromised in the Lady-Datejust, with the watch carrying the Superlative Chronometer certification. This new version of the Lady-Datejust is equipped with calibre 2236, a movement at the forefront of watchmaking technology, entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. It boasts several patents and offers outstanding performance in terms of precision (+/-2 seconds per day), power reserve (approximately 55 hours), resistance to shocks and magnetic fields, convenience and reliability. Especially notable here is the fact that calibre 2236 uses the Syloxi hairspring, which was patented and produced by Rolex. This silicon hairspring remains up to 10 times more precise than a traditional hairspring in case of shocks, and its patented geometry ensures the calibre’s regularity in any position.
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Pearlmaster holds a special place in the Oyster collection; it represents the height of exquisiteness with precious metals and gemstones. Image: Rolex
The pearl in the Oyster collection, the Pearlmaster is synonymous with elegance and brilliance. First introduced in 1992, the Pearlmaster shares some characteristics with the Datejust. This descendant of Rolex’s emblematic Datejust model displays the date, magnified by a Cyclops lens, in a window at 3 o’clock. Only available in 18 ct white or Everose gold, the Pearlmaster is a vivacious blend of watchmaking expertise and artful gem-setting, with its own defining hallmarks. Precise and lavish gem-setting is one such element, with a harmoniously contoured Pearlmaster bracelet being another. All in all, the collection is an exquisite expression of refinement with gently rounded styling.
With its softly curved lines, the Pearlmaster bracelet, entirely set with diamonds, contributes to the distinctive character and sophistication of the watch and offers the wearer maximum comfort. Created especially for the Pearlmaster in 1992, this solid gold bracelet with round five-piece links is fitted with a concealed Crownclasp — which is opened using a Rolex crown-shaped lever — adding to the watch’s aesthetic appeal and ease of use. The bracelet includes ceramic inserts inside the links to enhance its flexibility and longevity.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Pearlmaster 39 in 18 ct Everose gold with dial paved with 713 diamonds, featuring a diamond-set bezel, case and signature Pearlmaster bracelet
The Oyster case of the Pearlmaster 39, guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet), is a paragon of robustness and elegance. The middle case is crafted from a solid block of 18 ct white or Everose gold. Its case back, edged with fine fluting, is hermetically screwed down with a special tool that allows only certified Rolex watchmakers to access the movement. The Twinlock winding crown, fitted with a double waterproofness system, screws down securely against the case. The crystal, with a Cyclops lens at 3 o’clock for easy reading of the date, is made of virtually scratchproof sapphire. The waterproof Oyster case provides optimum protection for the Pearlmaster’s movement.
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date was the first calendar wristwatch to indicate, in addition to the date, the day of the week spelt out in full in a window on the dial — a technical feat at the time. Image: Rolex
Launched in 1956, the Day-Date was the ultimate watch of prestige, and remains so to this day. Watches in the Day-Date range are made only of precious metals — 18 ct yellow, white or Everose gold or 950 platinum. If the spotlight gravitates to you, the Day-Date is a fitting companion, as demonstrated by the many US presidents and eminent figures who have chosen it. The appeal of the collection first captivated President Lyndon B. Johnson in 1965, leading the Day-Date to be known as the “president’s watch”. All Day-Date watches are equipped with the President bracelet, which was specially created for the watch.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 in 18 ct yellow gold, with a turquoise dial, diamond-set bezel and a President bracelet
Resplendent at every angle, the turquoise stone dial and diamond-set Roman numeral hour markers give this Day-Date 36 an air of elevated sophistication, with its diamond-set bezel acting to draw the eye of every onlooker. The middle case is crafted out of a solid block of 18 ct yellow gold, as is the fluted caseback, and the President bracelet. Its distinctive dial features hour markers in 18 ct gold, set with 32 diamonds, and a Roman VI and IX in 18 ct gold, set with 24 diamonds accompanied by the instantly recognisable President bracelet represents the ultimate in refinement and comfort. Like all Rolex watches, the Day-Date 36 s covered by the Superlative Chronometer certification redefined by Rolex in 2015.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 in 18 ct white gold, with a diamond-paved dial, diamond-set bezel and a diamond-set President bracelet
The dial of the opulent Day-Date 36 features 10 baguette-cut, rainbow-coloured sapphires that function as the hour markers. These contrast brilliantly with the diamond-paved dial, creating a sparkling symphony to enhance the watch and enchant the wearer, and everyone around her. To deliver this alchemy of sublime grandeur, Rolex gem-setters have to work carefully and meticulously. They finely carve the precious metal to hand-shape the seat in which each gemstone will be perfectly lodged. Besides the intrinsic quality of the stones, several other criteria contribute to the beauty of Rolex gem-setting: the precise alignment of the height of the gems, their orientation and position, the regularity, strength and proportions of the setting as well as the intricate finishing of the metalwork.
Fuelled by a storied legacy, no efforts were spared in crafting the new-generation movement, calibre 3255. Developed and manufactured by Rolex, calibre 3255 boasts 14 patents and, thanks to its barrel architecture and the escapement’s superior efficiency, the power reserve of this movement extends to approximately 70 hours with an accuracy of +/-2 seconds a day.
The classic watch of reference. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 31 in Oystersteel and white gold, 36 mm case, bright black dial and a Jubilee bracelet.
There is something powerful about having time on your side, which is precisely what you will have with these Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date and Oyster Perpetual Datejust models. The new models we are presenting in this article reflect the strong personalities of the wearers yet convey a sense of poise and purpose effortlessly. Of course, the effortless part only applies to wearing the watches, because they have gone through decades of refinement and development to get them to the status of the modern horological icons they are today.
To get a little more granular here, we are looking at two gem-set Day-Date 36 models in 18 ct Everose gold, one fitted with an Eisenkiesel dial and the other with a mother-of-pearl dial; for the Datejust, there are also two options vying for your attention. One Datejust is in 36 mm with a bright blue fluted motif dial, while the other is a 31 mm gem-set model with mother-of-pearl dial. You only need to feel any of these four watches against your skin to understand, but ahead of that, we will present the case for each of the models featured here. There are also elements common to all Day-Date and Datejust models that we will cover, briefly.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date
This refined, exclusive metal bracelet with semi-circular three-piece links was created in 1956 for the launch of the prestigious Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date.
The Day-Date holds the unique distinction in the brand’s catalogue of being the only model offered exclusively in precious metals. At its launch in 1956, it was meant as the most prestigious watch, befitting only the worthiest wrists. It went on to live up to its billing, appearing on the wrists of the world’s most prominent individuals and visionaries. This included, famously, US President Lyndon B. Johnson in 1965, leading the Day-Date to be called the President’s watch. It is equipped with the President bracelet, which debuted with the watch in 1956, but when Johnson was photographed wearing the watch, the name President’s watch stuck. More recently, women such as Jennifer Aniston and Victoria Beckham have been spotted wearing the Day-Date watch.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 in 18 ct Everose gold with an Eisenkiesel diamond-set dial and a President bracelet
The extraordinarily fetching Eisenkiesel dial seen here in the Day-Date 36 is entirely new in watchmaking this year, making Rolex the first brand to use this decorative stone. Nothing expresses strength and power quite like being a ground-breaker, which the wearer of this watch will be. Eisenkiesel is a type of dark quartz with striped inclusions of iron oxide, making each dial truly one-of-a-kind. The discs of stone produced for the dials are cut from a block of raw material, with each disc individually selected by Rolex designers – only those whose colour and structure fully meet Rolex’s strict aesthetic criteria are selected. This pairs well with the resplendence of the diamond-set Roman numeral hour markers in the 36 mm case endowing the watch with quiet sophistication.
What is entirely contemporary here is the self-winding calibre 3255. Developed and manufactured by Rolex, calibre 3255 boasts 14 patents and, thanks to its barrel architecture and the escapement’s superior efficiency, the power reserve of this movement extends to approximately 70 hours (more than enough to get through the weekend) and an accuracy of +/-2 seconds a day.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 in 18 ct Everose gold featuring a white mother-of-pearl diamond-set dial and a President bracelet
The mother-of-pearl stone dial provides a stunning backdrop to this Day-Date 36 watch, with its combination of round and baguette diamond hour markers. The 36 mm model is thus bestowed with a commanding presence on the wrist, like the exclamation mark on a well-made point. Like its companion model with Eisenkiesel dial, this Day-Date model is also in 18 ct Everose gold and is distinguished by the President bracelet, which was created for this collection in 1956. You can always recognise the President bracelet by its three solid semi-circular links that provides complete reliability and comfort, along with the concealed Crownclasp. Like all Rolex watches, the Day-Date is covered by the Superlative Chronometer certification redefined by Rolex in 2015.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust
Today, more than ever, the Cyclops lens is an inseparable part of the aesthetics of the Oyster collection. It continues to evolve and perpetuate the brand’s singular care for the wearer’s comfort.
The Datejust is a classic and robust watch suitable for daily wear; it is capable of reflecting strength of character too, as this series of stories will show. To begin with, the Cyclops lens, which takes its name from the one-eyed giants of Greek mythology, was patented by Rolex in the early 1950s and introduced for the first time in 1953 on a Datejust model. This innovation makes it appreciably easier for the reading of the date and has become a signature feature that classic watch lovers look out for. On the other hand, the Datejust can be restrained or unabashedly bold with the large variety of configurations available, as its owner wishes.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 36 in Oystersteel and 18 ct white gold fitted with a bright blue fluted motif dial and an Oyster bracelet
New for 2021, this Datejust 36 model showcases a bright blue fluted motif dial, matching the signature fluted bezel design. The fluted motif emphasises the pattern found on a range of Rolex bezels that has become one of the brand’s signature aesthetic styles. This recognisable style adds heft to any owner’s personality.
Launched in 1945, the Datejust was the first self-winding waterproof chronometer wristwatch to display the date in a window at 3 o’clock on the dial. The watch consolidated all the major innovations that the brand had contributed to the modern wristwatch until then. The Datejust has spanned eras while retaining the enduring aesthetic characteristics that make it so instantly recognisable.
The new versions of this 36 mm watch are equipped with calibre 3235, a movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex that was released in 2015 and has been fitted on this model since 2018.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 31 in 18 ct white gold featuring a white mother-of-pearl diamond-set dial and a President bracelet
Diamonds add just the right amount of lustre to this Datejust 31 from all the elements, including the 18 ct white gold of the 31 mm case and President bracelet, to distinguish the owner in meetings and professional settings. Alongside the diamond-set hour markers on the mother-of-pearl dial, the bezel is also fully set with 36 diamonds, whose elegance belies the gemmology expertise and gem-setting skills at the Rolex manufacture. The gem-setters work with tweezers to handle trapeze-cut diamonds, each the size of a pinhead. To get each diamond to sit at the right height on the bezel, they must manually excavate a tiny bit of metal from the cavity. This process is then repeated, three times on average, until the table of the stone – its topmost facet – is perfectly aligned with its neighbour. Furthermore, in terms of the dimensions of the diamonds, Rolex tolerates variances of no more than 2 hundredths of a millimetre, which is around a quarter of the diameter of a human hair. Once finished, 36 diamonds will form the perfectly uniform, radiant circle of the watch’s gem-set bezel. This bezel alone illustrates the wide range of skills and know-how mastered in-house by Rolex.
The Datejust 31 is fitted with the self-winding calibre 2236, featuring a Perpetual rotor that ensures continuous winding of the mainspring by harnessing the movements of the wrist to provide constant energy. It offers a power reserve of approximately 55 hours.
Visit The Hour Glass to discover your very own Rolex watch.
Reinvention is the theme for Rado and its storied Captain Cook lineup as 2021 proves to the year for the brand to reveal an unprecedented and revolutionary watch for the said collection. The introduction to the new Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic is necessary especially in the world of horology and style as it is the culmination of years of research and development alongside the natural evolution of the Captain Cook collection.
The Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic is a watch fully imbued and endowed with Rado’s DNA in its purest and most distilled form. The timepiece showcases many of Rado most famous and applauded advancements including Rado’s innovative scratch-resistant and hypoallergenic high-tech ceramic in its monobloc case construction and the premium highly accurate Rado calibre R734 featuring a NivachronTM hairspring powering the watch.
“In 2017, the iconic look was re- launched and hit the nerve of time with the renewed worldwide interest in vintage-style diving watches. As the Master of Materials, we did not stop there but continued to develop the product with the launch of the 42 mm steel version in 2019, and the re-interpretation in Bronze in 2020. It is therefore a logical next step to produce this very iconic timepiece in high-tech ceramic, which perfectly combines the Rado past with the present. It is pure Rado DNA.“
– Adrian Bosshard, Rado CEO.
THE CASE AND THE MOVEMENT
Coming in for the first time with a more prominent case diameter of 43mm, the Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic is presented in four attractive versions. The first version (Ref. R32127152) comes in black high-tech ceramic case and bracelet with a hardened steel turning bezel and black high-tech ceramic insert for a monochromatic outlook. Next (Ref. R32127156) is a version with the same case and dial. Here, a rubber strap is attached instead of the bracelet to offer a more casual look. The third version (Ref. R32127162) also arrives in a similar black high-tech ceramic case and bracelet. However, in this case, contrasting rose gold coloured PVD coats the steel turning bezel and black high-tech ceramic insert. Last but not least, the fourth model (Ref. R32128202), stands out with its distinct plasma high-tech ceramic case and bracelet. Blue high-tech ceramic is expertly inserted into the hardened steel bezel.
All versions of the High-Tech Ceramic come powered by the finely finished Rado calibre R734. It impressively provides up to an impressive 80 hours of power reserve for the watch. The monobloc case of the watch ensures a reliable and practical 300m of water resistance. The outstanding façade of the dial and case back is due to the black-tinted sapphire crystal on both sides. It provides the wearer with a secret up-close view of the skeletonized movement without interfering with the legibility of the watch. The stunning dial also acts as the perfect platform to house the iconic Rado rotating anchor at the 12 o’clock position. Key accent elements of the watch such as the triangle on the bezel, the indexes, and the classic Captain Cook arrow hands fitted on the dial are painted with bold white Super-LumiNova® providing clear visibility in low light. A final layer of protection for the dial is the perfectly transparent and robust chevé box sapphire crystal.
FIVE POSITIONS OF ADJUSTMENT
To achieve a high level of accuracy in timekeeping, a five-position adjustment process is employed for each mechanical watch. It is a very time-consuming and technically complex operation and as such, this level of quality control and standard is normally only offered by brands in the luxury segment, including Rado. This is as opposed to the more typical and cost-effective three-position adjustment. What is the five-position adjustment? The position of a watch determines how strongly gravitational pull influences the moving components of a mechanical movement.
The accuracy of a watch movement will therefore vary depending on the position of the watch due to the wearer’s movements. With that in mind, there is a need to adjust a watch in more than just one or three positions. It is due to the fact that a watch that is adjusted in a certain position may show completely different accuracy values in another position. That said, the more positions a watch is adjusted in, the more precise it is during everyday use.
The five-position adjustment is executed in these positions:
THE ANTI-MAGNETIC NIVACHRONTM
Apart from the five positions of adjustment, to further bolster the accuracy and capabilities of the High-Tech Ceramic, the special alloy NivachronTM has been employed in the construction of the watch’s balance springs. NivachronTM is an innovative titanium-based alloy first developed with the involvement of the Swatch Group specifically for such purposes.
Magnetism wreaks havoc onto mechanical watches when the steel components in the watch movement becomes magnetized by a nearby magnetic source and this renders the watch to tell time either much too fast or too slow. Magnetic fields are very present in our surroundings from items such as smartphones, computers, televisions and refrigerators to even magnetic closures on handbags or jewellery. A balance spring made from NivachronTM enables the effects of a magnetic field on the accuracy of a mechanical watch movement to be significantly reduced and helps minimize the need for a Rado service centre to demagnetize the watch under such circumstances.
The key features of NivachronTM are that balance springs made with it are much reduced in sensitivity to the effects of a magnetic field, extremely resistant to fluctuations in temperature and shock as well as significant improvement in timekeeping. When all comes into play, Rado’s calibre R734 is proudly able to boast greater accuracy of the movement thanks to the combination of the five-position adjustment and NivachronTM.
This means that the Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic watch also enjoys a high level of magnetic field resistance and can run for 80 hours when fully wound. The new Captain Cook in High-Tech Ceramic is truly a wonder of engineering from the inside and out. Emanating Rado’s DNA in the mastery of materials and avant-garde watchmaking, this is the dawn of a mechanical masterpiece that has to be experienced first-hand.
As a bonus, let us enjoy Li Edelkoort’s sense of style and trend which are exhibited in her interpretation of Rado’s beautiful watches as seen on the rough coasts of Normandy, France. as Abbe Marie, and even studied with the scientifically inclined cleric.
Amidst a post-pandemic climate, Richard Mille has valiantly gone against the disruption with a steady momentum of new launches and innovations.
Enter the RM74-01 and RM74-02 In-House Automatic Tourbillons as we speak, a pair of novelties being uniquely appealing and technically complex. A double act, similar yet unique—the timepieces exemplify the DNA of the avant-garde watchmaker with elements that boast of its unceasingly innovative streak.
At first glance, though the ultra-skeletonised heart of the two striking models instantly attracts our attention in their likeness, they are demarcated within close range by the fine materials used in their construction.
RM 74-01
First up, RM74-01 flaunts a case in grey Cermet, a remarkable material that juxtaposes the extraordinary lightness of titanium with the hardness of ceramic with its exceptional resistance to corrosion and scratches.
RM 74-01
Taking Richard Mille and microtechnology specialist IMI Group years to develop and design including its singular hue, grey Cermet is technically composed of a metallic zirconium matrix strengthened by high-performance ceramic inserts where the ingenious flash sintering technique is employed. Notably, the Cermet material—typically used for racing car brakes and aerospace’s external fuselage—boasts a density lower than titanium (4.1g/cm3) while its 2360-Vicker hardness is comparable to the diamond’s standard 2400 Vickers. To complement the three-section construction of the case are grade 5 titanium caseband, bridges and baseplate.
In tandem with RM 74-01, side by side and without missing a beat so to speak, is RM 74-02 with yet another Richard Mille exclusive watchmaking material, Gold Carbon TPT®. This challenge is proudly accomplished by incorporating a composite material, the unparalleled Carbon TPT®, with a noble metal, gold leaf.
Just like grey Cermet, Gold Carbon TPT® has entailed years of development in the creation of a resistance-and-lightness tour de force from alternating layers of Carbon TPT® with 24k yellow gold leaf at 45°. The result is a stunning contrast of matte black carbon and glint of precious gold including threads of 24k yellow gold spangled over the curved contours of the case silhouette—all impeccably achieved by specially adapted machining and cutting processes and tools. Complementing the radiant glow are the baseplate and the red-gold 5N caseband with polished pillars, as well as the yellow gold 3N-encircled crown.
From an outward impression, we now journey within to the twin cores of the watches to discover the two new versions of the fully in-house automatic tourbillon calibre. For the RM 74-01, the in-house CRMT6 calibre is its beating heart, while the CRMT5 calibre powers the RM 74-02. The CRMT6 calibre’s baseplate and bridges are crafted from PVD- and electroplasma-treated grade 5 titanium, distinct from the CRMT5 calibre rendered in yellow gold 3N and red gold 5N.
However, the two calibres beat to the same rhythmic mandate of a tourbillon regulator with a free-sprung balance wheel where the constant energy flowing from their fast-winding barrels is smoothly dispersed via the involute profile gear teeth for 50 hours of power reserve and mechanical ballet. Allowing the owners of the twinning but non-identical watches and to personalise the winding according to their individual profile are a variable-geometry rotor from which the two movements distil their energy.
The final compliment that can be paid to the RM 74-01 and RM 74-02 is slimline sophistication that showcases their respective tourbillons at 6 o’clock, majestically placed within their frames. Additionally, the hand-bevelling on the flange further enhances the movements, replete with the detailed touches of satin-polished surfaces, microblasting, hand-bevelling and rolled pivot joints on the movement and case.
Clearly, the peerless refinement of hand-finishing quality has elevated the grace and delicacy of each timepiece to perfectly illustrate architectural elegance and technical performance in high watchmaking.
