Tag Archives: Watches and Wonders

Watches and Wonders 2022 Day 2 Highlights

Image: Chanel

It’s day 2 of Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022, and we go beyond mind-blowing today. Patek Philippe was so astonishing we had to take a second appointment, but that’s for later. We begin not with a watch but with extraordinary objects. That means Van Cleef & Arpels, and a time for magic, if not the time down to the precise second. The art and craft of watchmaking enables automatons such as the Fontaine Aux Oiseaux and the Reveries de Berylline, and of course the Planetarium Automaton. That last one is a massive work that scales the much-loved Midnight Planetarium up (to the tune of half a metre, no less).

When you see something like the Fontaine Aux Oiseaux, your faith in humanity will be restored. Words can’t capture what this creation means but we’ll link a video below. In fact, there are videos for all three automatons but you’ll be no wiser for watching them. On the other hand, you might feel better about the world we live in, and that’s no small feat. But that’s for another time, because now we do have to look at a few wristwatches. Like the Van Cleef & Arpels creations — including the Lady Arpels Heures Floral, which is much more than it appears to be — the other watches we looked at today are simply inspirational.

The watchmaking prowess of Chanel has achieved new heights with the J12 Diamond Tourbillon Calibre 5. While Chanel has flying Tourbillons in its collection, it now has one made completely in-house. The watch deserves a better introduction and we will try to do it justice later. It has specific particularities that make it entirely a Chanel beauty, albeit a complicated one. An interesting side note here is the matte ceramic in use, which appears both technically impressive and aesthetically promising to our eyes.

The wow-factor journey does not end there because we must discuss the Cartier Masse Mysterieuse, which Hodinkee’s Jack Forster calls wondrously strange. First of all, it is a mystery watch that shows all its tricks but conceals how it works. The entire movement is contained inside the oscillating mass, otherwise known as the rotor, and seems to be disconnected from the hands entirely. To understand this watch, you have to go back in time to 2011, and the magnificent Astroregulateur. I am particularly tickled here because I caught this origin when the Cartier presenter did not. Well, I am sometimes unintelligible so there is that…

Cartier Masse Mystérieuse
Image: Cartier

Completely intelligible is the Patek Philippe Ref. 5326G, a watch with something like eight patents hiding beneath the dial. It is an annual calendar with dual time zone function, but that explanation certainly does nothing for the wow factor. Okay, what makes this amazing is that it is virtually impossible to desynchronise the indications, whether you move the hands backwards or forwards. The main time setting function is accomplished with just one crown, although there are pushers for independent adjustment; we do not know why you would need them. Well, we kind of do know why but we want to run it by Patek Philippe again before we spill it.

Image: Patek Philippe

We’ll close with a fourth wall break. These kinds of stories are written on the fly, often in little 15 minute breaks on a phone, without so much as a press release to inform them. We do our best to refine them and check them, but there is a price to be paid for speed. We shall certainly return to some of the watches noted here in the weeks and months to come.

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Watches and Wonders 2022 Day 1 Highlights

Oyster Perpetual Air-King
Image: Rolex

We’re at Watches & Wonders Geneva, and there’s a lot to get through on day one of the world’s most important watch and jewellery fair. First off, it is great to be back in Geneva for a proper physical watch fair, a sentiment that was echoed across many brands that we saw on the first day.

Let me begin with Rolex, because of course… well, everyone who expected a new Oyster Perpetual Air-King will be pretty pleased with themselves, so good job Jenni Elle. Her predictions from the teaser were spot on so check that out… One thing absolutely no one predicted was a new left-handed Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II. In a word, the watch is trippy, or maybe just a trip.

Ok I’ll say one more thing about Rolex today and that is that all the kids stay in the picture. No watch has been discontinued but there’s a small wrinkle there that I’ll leave for another time.

I want to spend a moment talking about a watch you probably can’t have. This is the Grand Seiko Kodo SLGT003, which is the first constant force tourbillon from the brand, with calibre 9ST1 fully skeletonised. It’s big, it’s bold, and it is a genuine showstopper. I literally cannot remember the rest of the Grand Seiko presentation. Okay just kidding but we will leave the rest of the Grand Seiko novelties to another video. I’d like to say though that we need more watches like the Kodo — watches that make your heart race.

On a similar note, TAG Heuer also blew my mind with its new Carrera Plasma. Just look at it. That crown is fashioned out of a single lab-grown diamond. In fact, the dial is actually a grown bed of diamonds, and there are diamonds set into the aluminium case. One can truly say that all the diamonds used here are lab grown, or deliberately developed by human ingenuity. Alongside a noteworthy Aquaracer, the most recent TAG Heuer novelties will certainly get a closer look in another post.

Finally, Hermès also wowed us with a superlative traveller’s watch, the Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur. The manufacture worked with Chronode to develop the watch but it is definitely a pure Hermès Horologer creation.

Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur
Image: Hermès

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Watches & Wonders 2022: TAG Heuer Unveils New Models

Image: TAG Heuer

It may only be the second day of Watches & Wonders, but we’ve gotten so many gems already. TAG Heuer has dug deep this year and come up with the goods. In this highlight, we’ll be talking about the Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph — the brand’s first solar-powered watch — the Carrera X Porsche Limited Edition as well as Aquaracer Professional 1000 Superdiver.

Image: TAG Heuer
Image: TAG Heuer

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph

Driven by light, TAG Heuer forays into new frontiers as it releases its first ever solar-powered watch — the Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph. Following the reimagining of the Aquaracer collection last in 2021, the Solargraph gives new meaning to ‘made for outdoors’ with a solar powered timepiece.

Powered by the calibre TH50-00 produced by Manufacture La Joux-Perret exclusively for TAG Heuer, power generation has been optimised to ensure maximum performance as it absorbs both sunlight or artificial light. Two minutes under sunlight can power the watch for one full day, while a fully charged capacity ensures the watch operates autonomously for six months.

Should the Solargraph stop working after prolonged idle time, 10 seconds of light exposure will kick start its movement. The Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph features a black DLC coated stainless steel case with a bezel insert made of a blend of carbon and green SuperLumiNova.

Image: TAG Heuer
Image: TAG Heuer

TAG Heuer Carrera X Porsche Limited Edition

The second chapter of the TAG Heuer X Porsche partnership materialises with the TAG Heuer Carrera X Porsche Limited Edition. The latest limited edition model pays tribute to Porsche’s emblematic yellow, reserved for its sportiest cars.

Red accents seen on the first model make way for yellow while the metallic bodywork of Porsche’s cars is recreated on the dial. Given the strong association both TAG Heuer and Porsche share with motorsports, two sub-dials feature an asphalt texture.

Other Porsche influences include an oscillating mass shaped like the Porsche steering wheel set on the Calibre HEUER 02 Automatic movement and a textile inspired leather strap with double stitching inspired by the seat upholstery of Porsche cars.

Image: TAG Heuer
Image: TAG Heuer
Image: TAG Heuer

Aquaracer Professional 1000 Superdiver

First announced at Watches & Wonders 2021, the Aquaracer Professional 1000 Superdiver lives up to the hype. More robust than its contemporaries, the Aquaracer Professional 1000 Superdiver is the first to make use of calibre TH30-00 from Kenissi Manufacture SA — one of the most highly regarded movement manufacturers in the business.

As its name suggests, the new watch is built for professional divers and will be able to handle depth of up to 1,000m. Apart from this, divers will also appreciate the attention TAG Heuer has placed on crafting the watch’s hands. The hour hand in particular, is in the shape of an arrow and is more imposing than that of the Aquaracer Professional 300. Coated with Super-LumiNova, it’s also very visible underwater. The minute and second hands — which divers pay most attention to — are orange to increase visibility as well.

Despite its robust build, the Aquaracer Professional 1000 Superdiver has a thickness of only 15.75mm, giving a sleek and elegant feel as well, so it’ll feel at home if you’re actually diving or just desk diving.

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Watches & Wonders 2022: Rolex Launches New Models

Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II. Image: Rolex

Rolex has pulled the curtains back on its catalogue for this year’s edition of Watches & Wonders, and it’s no surprise that the collection is superb. Ranging from the Oyster Perpetual Air-King to the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II, there’s a bit of something for every watch fan in this new release. Here’s a quick rundown on three of our favourite models.

Oyster Perpetual Air-King

Oyster Perpetual Air-King
Oyster Perpetual Air-King. Image: Rolex

Designed as a tribute to the pioneers of aviation, the Air-King is certainly worthy of its name. Featuring a completely redesigned case with crown guard and straight sides (like the majority of Professional category models), the new model exudes quality and class.

Oyster Perpetual Air-King
Oyster Perpetual Air-King. Image: Rolex

Proportions have been given a slight tweak as well, with the most notable change being a broadened center link. The new Air-King is also equipped with calibre 3230, a well-loved movement at the forefront of watchmaking.

Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II

Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II. Image: Rolex

A guaranteed favourite amongst travellers, the GMT-Master II was built to go places. On this model, the crown and crown guard are placed on the left side of the watch. Another marked difference are the date aperture and Cyclops lens which have been moved to the 9 o’clock position.

Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II
Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II. Image: Rolex

These significant changes prompted Rolex to make several technical changes on this GMT-Master II. Made from Oystersteel and fitted with an Oyster bracelet, this GMT-Master II features a classic aesthetic and a two-colour monobloc Cerachrom bezel insert in green and black ceramic. This colour pairing is another first for this model.

Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 42

Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 42. Image: Rolex

For the first time ever, Rolex is offering the Yacht-Master 42 in yellow gold — a nod to refinement. Previously offered in 18 ct white gold, the new model will be offered in 18 ct yellow gold. Like the original — which was first launched in 1992 — this Yacht-Master 42 will also include a bidirectional rotatable bezel with a Cerachrom insert and a raised graduation.

Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 42. Image: Rolex

The watch is also fitted with an Oysterflex bracelet, and features calibre 3235. The Yacht-Master is the embodiment binding Rolex to the world of sailing, and this new release blends functionality, luxury and nautical style seamlessly.

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Montblanc new 1858 Automatic 24H and Monopusher Chronograph

For 2020, Montblanc is presenting two new 1858 watches, the Automatic 24H and a limited edition Monopusher Chronograph. Inspired by Minerva’s heritage, the new 1858 Automatic 24H and new Montblanc Monopusher Chronograph lean heavier into their vintage aesthetics. Featuring new coloured dials and bronze cases, Montblanc’s 1858 collection of watches is enriched by a 24-hour complication – an uncommon method of time display given our faster paced 21st-century lifestyles but currently, oddly prescient given that almost all economic activity has ground to a standstill with life reverting to a much slower pace given the global lockdowns.

Classic 19th-century design codes and vintage elements also celebrate that portentous confluence of Minerva pocket watches and a nascent industry of railroad wristwatches, which makes the new Montblanc 1858 Automatic 24H a fun journey down nostalgia lane: Guess this year is the year to party like its 1858.

Montblanc new 1858 Automatic 24H and Monopusher Chronograph

We can thank the ancient Egyptians for our 24 hour day. Over a millennia ago, pioneering Egyptian astronomers initially divided the daylight into ten partitions measured by sundials, since only the ten daytime hours would render the shadow of a sundial meaningful, the additional two hours for the morning and evening twilights, brought the total to 24 with astronmers marking the passing of the hours in the night by observing the overhead rotation of the stars grouped together in easily observable “decans” until sunrise.

With its lone hour pointer, the new Montblanc 1858 Automatic 24H recalls this ancient legacy in the context of our own pre-modern history – time indicated on a 24-hour scale using a red-coloured hand coated in SuperLumiNova accomplishes optimal legibility for both day and night readability. Furthermore, this ethos of exploration finds another voice in the compass scale, typically only a design feature but on the new Montblanc 1858 Automatic 24H, an element designed to be used.

Displayed in a beige-coloured ring running around the periphery of the dial, with compass markers at each of the cardinal points and each 15-minute interval allow you to use the new 1858 Automatic 24H as a rudimentary navigation device.

Using the new Montblanc 1858 Automatic 24H as a compass

The sun rises in the East and sets in the West, which means that if you’re in the Northern Hemisphere, the 1858 Automatic 24H  will indicate South at midday. If your watch has been correctly set, simply orienting the hour hand to point towards the sun while holding your watch face parallel to the ground will orient the cardinal points to their geographic alignment with North at 24h and South at 12h. Should you find yourself in the Southern Hemisphere, the cardinal points are inverted.

The black map of the Northern Hemisphere and its 24 meridians becomes especially attractive as night starts to fall. Made out of luminescent material, SuperLumiNova-coated dial elements of the new Montblanc 1858 Automatic 24H – the hour numerals, indexes and single hour hand take on a mysterious glow, making the timepiece distinctive even in the dark.

The automatic timepiece comes with a new 42 mm bicolour case made of stainless steel and a bezel made of a special alloy of bronze, providing a vintage aesthetic. The timepiece is completed with a special “Spirit of Mountain Exploration” engraving on the case back.

New Montblanc Monopusher Chronograph Limited Edition

Minerva’s exquisitely finished monopusher chronograph may be out of reach to most young professionals but 2020 saw Montblanc release their Salmon dial Heritage Monopusher Chronograph limited edition and another vintage-inspired Monopusher chronograph in aged bronze.

Featuring a black dial with a beige-coloured railway track, as well as two counters at three and nine o’clock, the new 2020 bronze Monopusher Chronograph Limited Edition joins its salmon dial brother, with a rougher and tumble aesthetic versus a dressier, classical countenance. The dial highlights striking colour contrasts with their historical, luminescent, cathedral hands; luminescent Arabic numerals; railway minute tracks; and the original Montblanc logo from the 1930s with its historical font and Mont Blanc Mountain motif.

The satin-finishing of Montblanc’s new bronze Monopusher chronograph for 2020 features horn edges that are polished to underline their shape. Reinforcing its vintage appeal are details like fluted crowns, typical of those found on timepieces from that period, domed sapphire crystal glass boxes and of course, beige-coloured SuperLumiNova numerals for that faux-aged look.

The 1858 Monopusher Chronograph Limited Edition features the calibre MB. 25.12 that indicates elapsed time with a central second hand and a 30-minute counter, both with white- coloured hands to create a contrast with the black dial and allow better readability of the function. The start, stop and reset can be activated through a single pusher integrated into the crown. The timepiece is available with a new matching beige-coloured NATO strap that is made in a traditional 150-year-old strap manufacture in France.

Montblanc 1858 Automatic 24H Price & Specs

Movement automatic Calibre MB 24.20 with 42 hours power reserve
Case 42mm Stainless steel with bronze bezel with 100 metres power reserve
Strap black NATO
Price On application

Also available with a stainless steel case and bracelet or with an aged, cognac- coloured calfskin strap with beige-coloured stitching Sfumato

Bronze Montblanc Monopusher Chronograph Price & Specs

Movement automatic Calibre MB 25.12 with 48 hours power reserve
Case 42mm bronze case with 100 metres power reserve
Strap NATO or “rice beads” bracelet
Price On application