When it comes to Chanel’s watchmaking, they have always tried to differentiate this division from the fashion side of things. In fact, this is a common trend among fashion houses, where they feel the need to distance themselves from the fashion element to establish themselves as serious players in the watchmaking industry. Therefore, you can imagine that it came as quite a surprise when for 2024 Chanel, instead of hiding away their couture heritage decided to use it as inspiration for an entire capsule collection, and exhibit them in the heart of the biggest watchmaking fair, Watches & Wonders Geneva earlier this year. For the fair, Chanel struts down the catwalk with timepieces inspired by elements of fashion design including buttons, pin cushions, couture dummies, thimbles, scissors and much more, in a collection of watches they are naming Couture o’clock.

The Chanel J12 Couture in 33mm and 38mm. Image credit: Photography, Edmund Lee; Styling, Ervin Tan

Chanel Première Ruban Couture Watch. Image credit: Photography, Edmund Lee; Styling, Ervin Tan

Chanel Mademoiselle J12 Couture. Image credit: Photography, Edmund Lee; Styling, Ervin Tan

This is not to say that they have neglected the watchmaking side of things because even though the collection is fun in nature, the mechanisms behind them are still incredibly serious. For example, the hero watch for the year is a J12 timepiece which recreates a scene inspired by Gabrielle Chanel and her couture atelier at rue Cambon. To achieve their intended effect, the Chanel Watchmaking Creation Studio worked with movement makers Kenissi to create the first ever automaton movement, the Calibre 6, to animate the figurine of Mademoiselle Chanel, her scissors and her couture dummy.

In terms of complication, Chanel also made a one-of-a-kind mechanical sculpture that is at once a music box, automaton and clock to evoke the interior of Gabrielle Chanel’s apartment. When activated the couture busts come to life serenaded by the rhythms of “My Woman” by Al Bowlly, a melody that Mademoiselle liked to hum.

Yet another milestone reached this year is the introduction of a movement by the Kenissi manufacture within their ultra-feminine 33mm collection. With the J12 33mm getting its own self-winding movement, the Calibre 12.2, the timepiece becomes so much more than just a fashion accessory. The movement had to be carefully redesigned to fit a smaller case and thankfully all of it is visible through the transparent caseback. The Calibre 12.2 is also equipped with an oscillating weight in the form of a perfect circle. And to show you just how serious Chanel is about their watchmaking, the 33mm J12 is even officially Chronometer certified by the COSC.

In addition to this, Chanel is also bringing a touch of pink to their collection for 2024. The J12 and J12 X-Ray get this accent through the liberal use of baguette-cut pink sapphires strewn across the bezel and on the indices. As for the Boy-Friend Skeleton collection, the skeletonised bridges and plates have been given a pink coating.