Japanese watchmaking powerhouse Seiko recently took us through the novelties of 2024, leaving us fairly flummoxed as to what watch to feature (there are also embargoes to consider). A standout for us is the Seiko Brand 100th Anniversary King Seiko KS1969, which is the first new iteration to feature something other than the usual round shape. In itself, a watch that is not round from a major producer already counts as big news, even if the appeal might be limited. To backtrack a little, Seiko makes a lot of watches – certainly enough that it knows how to read and respond to the market. That said, the form of the four KS1969 models (SJE109, SJE111, SJE113 and SJE115) is surprising, though not as eye-popping as the return of the Credor Locomotive, but that is a story for another time.

The original King Seiko watch from 1969

Returning to King Seiko then, the KS1969 collection is in what one might call a cushion-shape, or shield-shape; it could even be called tonneau or barrel-shaped. We prefer the shield option, which is what we will use since Seiko does not describe it officially. You will see in the specifications that the diameter is listed at 39.4mm but the real measurement everyone will want is lug-to-lug but that is not given (we estimate it to be in the 45mm range, based on our own casual measurement).

Whatever the case (no pun intended), do note the overwhelming presence of polished surfaces, including the case sides; the bracelet with its 13-link structure goes with alternating brushed and polished surfaces, which you can just about make out here. At 9.9mm thick, the watch can probably manage to fit underneath most sleeves. The water-resistance of 50m signals that this is one of those urban beaters, the kind advertised for the man who needs to seamlessly transition from work to social settings, and perhaps back again.

For dial options, there are three to take note of, and one to seek out if limited editions are your thing. The silver dial option is meant to bring to mind the skyline of Tokyo; the Edo purple is an approximation of a shade of purple popular in the Edo period; and the green dial is of course part of Seiko’s continuing obsession with natural beauty. The fourth dial is in a trendy turquoise shade with a very specific texture that references a dragon. This puts the 700-piece limited edition in the mythic-inspiration category while also making it a late entry into the year of the dragon category (this is Japan-specific but it works with the Chinese zodiac too).